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xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

3 months after putting in the order, my R5 arrived. :corsair:

I tested the eye tracking on a sleeping cat, it works good. I did not realize how loving bad the AF on my 80D was.

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BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.
https://twitter.com/nokishita_c/status/1322300456874303489?s=21

https://twitter.com/nokishita_c/status/1321706086081032192

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)
Not sure how I feel about that external zoom...

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

I hate it too but it looks drat compact when shrunk down which I can definitely support. Long as the front element doesn't spin I could deal.

astr0man
Feb 21, 2007

hollyeo deuroga
Not surprising it's external zoom given that they did the same thing with the f2.8 version, but my biggest complaint about the design is that they aren't compatible with the new RF teleconverters.

It'd be nice to move to the smaller/lighter RF zooms, but I use the EF 70-200 + 1.4x combination enough that making that lens switch isn't really an option

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

astr0man posted:

Not surprising it's external zoom given that they did the same thing with the f2.8 version, but my biggest complaint about the design is that they aren't compatible with the new RF teleconverters.

It'd be nice to move to the smaller/lighter RF zooms, but I use the EF 70-200 + 1.4x combination enough that making that lens switch isn't really an option
Is that an announcement or where does it say not compatible with the RF 1.4x?

astr0man
Feb 21, 2007

hollyeo deuroga

ilkhan posted:

Is that an announcement or where does it say not compatible with the RF 1.4x?

I guess there's no official word on the F4 version yet, but the RF 70-200 F2.8 is not compatible with the new RF teleconverters. On the F2.8, the rear element is almost flush with the lens mount, so there's no room for the part of the TC that goes into the back of the lens.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I read that it’s the same case with the f4. So what lenses *do* work with the RF TCs?

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
Probably the /11 pair? Didn't realize the 70-200/2.8 was a no go on the extender. 100-500 too.

BetterLekNextTime
Jul 22, 2008

It's all a matter of perspective...
Grimey Drawer
I wonder if this will be like the EF 70-300L that didn't work with Canon TCs but did work with third party versions (once they're out, I assume there aren't any yet).

astr0man
Feb 21, 2007

hollyeo deuroga
Yeah, currently they only work with the 100-500 and the f11 primes

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)



This might be a question for the gear thread and if I am better posting there please tell me.

I picked up a 5D MkII earlier this summer and grabbed a 20-70mm F4 L IS USM. I picked up the lens for $500 in perfect condition. I want to get another lens and don't know what I should be looking for.

The person had a UV filter on the 20-70 and I was hating the color and results I was getting from the camera until I removed the filter and now I am getting some good stuff.

I have the nifty fifty 1.8, so those are my two lenses. I am generally taking photos of my kids, photos of cars, and photos of RC cars and occasionally product photos at work. This is purely a hobby but finally being able to capture the kind of photos I have really wanted to I am wondering what the next step should be for a lens. Should I consider finding a 20-70 F2.8? 85mm? 16-35mm? I am trying to be somewhat budget smart and see if I can grab some pro-gear from someone making the jump to mirrorless. The 5D and lenses was the move I went to instead of spending ~$5K on a mirrorless/lens setup which ultimately seemed a silly thing for what are essentially snapshots.



I am taking photos like this.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Probably a dumb question, but is there a way on auto to get the t7i to not default to flash on? I want flash to be off by default.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Somewhat Heroic posted:

This might be a question for the gear thread and if I am better posting there please tell me.

I picked up a 5D MkII earlier this summer and grabbed a 20-70mm F4 L IS USM. I picked up the lens for $500 in perfect condition. I want to get another lens and don't know what I should be looking for.

The person had a UV filter on the 20-70 and I was hating the color and results I was getting from the camera until I removed the filter and now I am getting some good stuff.

I have the nifty fifty 1.8, so those are my two lenses. I am generally taking photos of my kids, photos of cars, and photos of RC cars and occasionally product photos at work. This is purely a hobby but finally being able to capture the kind of photos I have really wanted to I am wondering what the next step should be for a lens. Should I consider finding a 20-70 F2.8? 85mm? 16-35mm? I am trying to be somewhat budget smart and see if I can grab some pro-gear from someone making the jump to mirrorless. The 5D and lenses was the move I went to instead of spending ~$5K on a mirrorless/lens setup which ultimately seemed a silly thing for what are essentially snapshots.



I am taking photos like this.
24-70 or 24-105 would be the go-to for you. Find one used and it shouldn't be too bad on cost. The -70 is faster, but heavier and a bit more expensive. The -105 has more reach. You'll find people who say the 70 is better iq, but the difference is pretty minor.

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Probably a dumb question, but is there a way on auto to get the t7i to not default to flash on? I want flash to be off by default.

I haven't used Auto or P modes...ever on the DSLR, so I don't remember the exact difference, but I suspect in your case P mode is going to accomplish what you want. However, it may also do some stuff you don't want so read the manual a little bit.


Somewhat Heroic posted:

This might be a question for the gear thread and if I am better posting there please tell me.

I picked up a 5D MkII earlier this summer and grabbed a 20-70mm F4 L IS USM. I picked up the lens for $500 in perfect condition. I want to get another lens and don't know what I should be looking for.

The person had a UV filter on the 20-70 and I was hating the color and results I was getting from the camera until I removed the filter and now I am getting some good stuff.

I have the nifty fifty 1.8, so those are my two lenses. I am generally taking photos of my kids, photos of cars, and photos of RC cars and occasionally product photos at work. This is purely a hobby but finally being able to capture the kind of photos I have really wanted to I am wondering what the next step should be for a lens. Should I consider finding a 20-70 F2.8? 85mm? 16-35mm? I am trying to be somewhat budget smart and see if I can grab some pro-gear from someone making the jump to mirrorless. The 5D and lenses was the move I went to instead of spending ~$5K on a mirrorless/lens setup which ultimately seemed a silly thing for what are essentially snapshots.



I am taking photos like this.

"Next step up" is a bit of a broad term here. The answer to the "I like the range of the 24-70 F/4, but need/want a little shallower depth of field and/or to work in a little dimmer light" is an F/2.8 lens. If you want more zoom on either the wide angle or telephoto end that's a different question.

On the telephoto end, the 70-200mm F/4's are fantastic lenses and sell for great prices used these days. I see the non-IS going for ~$350 fairly often and the IS going for $500 or less as well. The IS II has the same optics as the IS, but improved coatings and isn't worth the extra cost. This lens is fairly compact considering what it can do and is very sharp even at its widest aperture. I also see some of older versions of the 70-200mm F/2.8 go for around those prices, but it's generally less sharp and also much larger and heavier. The extra stop of light is nice though.

On the other end of the spectrum is ultrawide angle lenses. I'm less familiar with the full frame options here since I've always shot APS-C bodies. The 16-35mm F/4 is maybe the best option here, but it's still fairly pricey used. I'm completely unfamiliar with the Sigma/Tamron options for full frame so there may be a good value, sharp lens there that I'm not familiar with. Budget first-party option is the 17-40 F/4, which is older, lacks IS, and is soft in the corners, but also pretty cheap for a FF zoom.

The other option is more wide aperture primes, either overlapping with your current lenses or outside of it. Unless you're finding the 50mm just a little bit too short, I'm not sure I'd jump on the 85mm F/1.8, although it is a great value. The 135mm F/2 is a killer lens, albeit more expensive, but obviously you're limited to that focal length.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

I don't know why you'd decide to buy a new lens without having a specific problem your current lens doesn't solve. Once you're in L glass territory there's no magic upgrade to make your pictures kick 100% more rear end.. like BeastOfExmoor said, decide if you want a new focal length or a bigger aperture and go from there. If neither, just stick with what you got.

I guess a 70-200 would be useful for kid shots but everything else you've mentioned you already got a great lens for.

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)



BeastOfExmoor posted:

"Next step up" is a bit of a broad term here. The answer to the "I like the range of the 24-70 F/4, but need/want a little shallower depth of field and/or to work in a little dimmer light" is an F/2.8 lens. If you want more zoom on either the wide angle or telephoto end that's a different question.

On the telephoto end, the 70-200mm F/4's are fantastic lenses and sell for great prices used these days. I see the non-IS going for ~$350 fairly often and the IS going for $500 or less as well. The IS II has the same optics as the IS, but improved coatings and isn't worth the extra cost. This lens is fairly compact considering what it can do and is very sharp even at its widest aperture. I also see some of older versions of the 70-200mm F/2.8 go for around those prices, but it's generally less sharp and also much larger and heavier. The extra stop of light is nice though.

On the other end of the spectrum is ultrawide angle lenses. I'm less familiar with the full frame options here since I've always shot APS-C bodies. The 16-35mm F/4 is maybe the best option here, but it's still fairly pricey used. I'm completely unfamiliar with the Sigma/Tamron options for full frame so there may be a good value, sharp lens there that I'm not familiar with. Budget first-party option is the 17-40 F/4, which is older, lacks IS, and is soft in the corners, but also pretty cheap for a FF zoom.

The other option is more wide aperture primes, either overlapping with your current lenses or outside of it. Unless you're finding the 50mm just a little bit too short, I'm not sure I'd jump on the 85mm F/1.8, although it is a great value. The 135mm F/2 is a killer lens, albeit more expensive, but obviously you're limited to that focal length.

Thank you - this is really good info. I have been just trying to decide if the 2.8 aperture would be worth the upgrade to get the focus a bit more tight. The F4 has been very good. I think trying to find a good 70-200 F4 IS would be the way to go. I just want something that will be able to focus a little faster was the reason I was thinking about the 2.8 as well.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Somewhat Heroic posted:



I am taking photos like this.
Get a fast, wide prime. 35mm is my fav, but you do you.
Or be boring and get a standard zoom (2x/70 2.8)

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)
I can confirm that the 70-200 f/4 is great for trying to snap pictures of your kids, especially outdoors. Got mine for less than $400 in essentially new condition.

Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer
This is a heavy crop from a shot with the 70-200 f/4L IS taken from a moving train.

The lens is goddamn witchcraft.


IMG_8771.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

I've been ignoring any camera gear news/videos for at least a year now just to escape the gear treadmill for a while, but it looks like my original 1DX might finally be in trouble so I need to think about a replacement.

From what I can see the new R5 is Canon's top of the line mirrorless offering, correct? Is anyone shooting with one? Do EF lenses all perform well with it? I'd love any actual impressions from goons using one if possible.

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

InternetJunky posted:

From what I can see the new R5 is Canon's top of the line mirrorless offering, correct? Is anyone shooting with one? Do EF lenses all perform well with it? I'd love any actual impressions from goons using one if possible.

This is correct. I "only" have the R6 but all EF lenses work wonderfully with it with the adapter (which you can get for free if you're a CPS member and buy a body).

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

I got my R5 about a month ago now and all my lenses have worked flawlessly with it.

Canon's 24-105 f/4, Tamron's 70-200, and Tamron's 150-600. AF is perfect.

My EF-S lenses work as well, the camera auto crops to 1.6 when you put one on. (18-55 f/2.8 and 10-22mm).

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

gschmidl posted:

This is correct. I "only" have the R6 but all EF lenses work wonderfully with it with the adapter (which you can get for free if you're a CPS member and buy a body).
That's really good news. I don't suppose you have any super-telephotos you've used with the adapter?

xzzy posted:

I got my R5 about a month ago now and all my lenses have worked flawlessly with it.

Canon's 24-105 f/4, Tamron's 70-200, and Tamron's 150-600. AF is perfect.

My EF-S lenses work as well, the camera auto crops to 1.6 when you put one on. (18-55 f/2.8 and 10-22mm).

Good to hear. Have you had a chance to try out this "animal detect" stuff? It's the one feature that is really pushing me to mirrorless instead of another 1DX.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

InternetJunky posted:

Good to hear. Have you had a chance to try out this "animal detect" stuff? It's the one feature that is really pushing me to mirrorless instead of another 1DX.

Only on my cats and coming from an 80D it's pretty insane how good it is. I never considered myself a wildlife photographer but with this body I'm considering doing the unthinkable and shooting birds. :v:

(the only moving stuff I traditionally have shot is motorsport and when the plague is over I can't wait to try it again)


Shooting a series usually the first frame is just slightly out of focus but once it's locked on the eyes it stays stuck there, maybe with some misses if the animal is moving their head a lot or you're dragging the shutter. In a burst series you can see tiny microadjustments but all the images are usable. It does break down in bad light, as in 20 minutes past sunset levels. Completely unable to identify subjects, much less their eyes.

It's really refreshing to have a series of images where my biggest problem is "which perfectly sharp image to keep" instead of "this is the only one in focus so I guess that's the one."

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

InternetJunky posted:

That's really good news. I don't suppose you have any super-telephotos you've used with the adapter?

Does the Sigma 150-600 count? If yes, I've used that and feel like it works even better than on the 80D I had before.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

So I just watched this video on the R5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svfMrg55bBQ

Seems like a very fair review, and the one thing that has me really worried is this spool up time on the evf. 90% of my shooting is standing in -30 temps waiting for my subject to suddenly move, and it sounds like this camera just isn't going to be able to help me there. Either I keep the evf active and drain the battery in 10 minutes or I just miss out on the action completely. Does that seem like a fair assessment or is this guy's experience not typical?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

InternetJunky posted:

So I just watched this video on the R5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svfMrg55bBQ

Seems like a very fair review, and the one thing that has me really worried is this spool up time on the evf. 90% of my shooting is standing in -30 temps waiting for my subject to suddenly move, and it sounds like this camera just isn't going to be able to help me there. Either I keep the evf active and drain the battery in 10 minutes or I just miss out on the action completely. Does that seem like a fair assessment or is this guy's experience not typical?

I'd just rent one and an adapter and give it ago instantly ready and low passive battery use are big DSLR features you tend to forget how much you rely on.

There's also rumours of a potential R1 and R7 (maybe crop?) coming next year.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Yes, there's four options in the menus for the EVF. From the manual:



The third option (always use viewfinder) completely disables the rear screen and the EVF will stay lit at all times.

You can configure a button to swap between the AUTO1 and AUTO2 modes.


I will say my one grip with the body is the sensitivity of the eye sensor. You will constantly cause the camera to switch to EVF when messing with the touch screen if you're using your right hand no matter how careful you think you're being with avoiding that little black box.

gschmidl
Sep 3, 2011

watch with knife hands

The one negative I've found with the EVF on the R6 is that when it's dark and you have IS on, it "swims" pretty hard (i.e. a noticeable lag).

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.
The R5 can apparently be powered over USB-C (although it still needs a battery), so you plausibly hook up a huge USB battery pack and run it for a lot longer. That said, this is a pretty hacky workaround for a $4500 camera.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

BeastOfExmoor posted:

The R5 can apparently be powered over USB-C (although it still needs a battery), so you plausibly hook up a huge USB battery pack and run it for a lot longer. That said, this is a pretty hacky workaround for a $4500 camera.

Well I did that anyways with my 80D when I was doing meteor showers. Got a giant battery brick off Amazon and powered my dew heater with it plus the camera. That's how lfie goes when when you want to leave it turned on for long periods. Being able to do it with USB-C on the R5 is actually a bonus because you won't need the dummy battery.

But battery life is a much bigger concern with mirrorless, thing drinks power like it's water.

Infinite Karma
Oct 23, 2004
Good as dead





xzzy posted:

Well I did that anyways with my 80D when I was doing meteor showers. Got a giant battery brick off Amazon and powered my dew heater with it plus the camera. That's how lfie goes when when you want to leave it turned on for long periods. Being able to do it with USB-C on the R5 is actually a bonus because you won't need the dummy battery.

But battery life is a much bigger concern with mirrorless, thing drinks power like it's water.
If the R5 and R6 work similarly to the R, they can be charged by USB-C, but they can't be on simultaneously, and the battery won't charge while the camera is powered on. Hacking it to use continuous power is actually difficult and a huge pain in the rear end. Last I checked, you have to get a dummy battery that plugs into an AC adapter, and all of the ones currently available are low quality garbage that is almost guaranteed to toast your $4000 camera since you're plugging it directly into a wall outlet.

InternetJunky
May 25, 2002

Thanks folks for the info/feedback.

I think this is what I'll try out first just to see how fast the battery drains in regular shooting conditions for me:

jarlywarly posted:

I'd just rent one

Graniteman
Nov 16, 2002

Infinite Karma posted:

If the R5 and R6 work similarly to the R, they can be charged by USB-C, but they can't be on simultaneously, and the battery won't charge while the camera is powered on. Hacking it to use continuous power is actually difficult and a huge pain in the rear end. Last I checked, you have to get a dummy battery that plugs into an AC adapter, and all of the ones currently available are low quality garbage that is almost guaranteed to toast your $4000 camera since you're plugging it directly into a wall outlet.

I don't own an R5 but have been looking at getting one. What I've read is that it does support using the camera over USB power, but you need a high spec USB PD charger. The manual for the R5 says the canon USB charger will power the camera. It's not clear what spec PD you need to power the camera, but since the canon one can do it, probably a third party can. Maybe you need something rated to power a laptop.
https://cam.start.canon/id/C003/manual/html/UG-09_Reference_0030.html

Seamonster
Apr 30, 2007

IMMER SIEGREICH

Helen Highwater posted:

This is a heavy crop from a shot with the 70-200 f/4L IS taken from a moving train.

The lens is goddamn witchcraft.


IMG_8771.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr

I'll see your 70-200 f/4L IS (a lens I also own and love) and raise you a 40mm pancake on a moving boat

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Lens bragging: 150-600, 1/5000 at 6400, indoors, stationary cat, in direct sunlight. View that sucker full size and start counting cat hairs!



This is the original Tamron 150-600, the "bad" one. I was extremely disappointed with it on the 80D because it had a miserable time focusing on anything and was getting set to sell it for a big loss. The R5 pumped life in to it.

(I was trying to get a feel for shadow recovery but this particular frame didn't need it. there's no noise reduction on if you want to see how noisy it is)

astr0man
Feb 21, 2007

hollyeo deuroga

Graniteman posted:

I don't own an R5 but have been looking at getting one. What I've read is that it does support using the camera over USB power, but you need a high spec USB PD charger. The manual for the R5 says the canon USB charger will power the camera. It's not clear what spec PD you need to power the camera, but since the canon one can do it, probably a third party can. Maybe you need something rated to power a laptop.
https://cam.start.canon/id/C003/manual/html/UG-09_Reference_0030.html

The official canon one supports outputting either 5V or 9V, so I think anything that supports PD 2.0/3.0 and can output at least 9V should work. Basically any USB-C power brick/charger that's advertised as rated to actually charge a nintendo switch or laptop should do it.

Seamonster
Apr 30, 2007

IMMER SIEGREICH

xzzy posted:

Lens bragging: 150-600, 1/5000 at 6400, indoors, stationary cat, in direct sunlight. View that sucker full size and start counting cat hairs!



This is the original Tamron 150-600, the "bad" one. I was extremely disappointed with it on the 80D because it had a miserable time focusing on anything and was getting set to sell it for a big loss. The R5 pumped life in to it.

(I was trying to get a feel for shadow recovery but this particular frame didn't need it. there's no noise reduction on if you want to see how noisy it is)

Hey I have that lens too!

Not bad for shooting from foulpole to foulpole.

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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I rented a big white 600mm you can count the feather barbules on this swan and that's only 24MP on an 80D with the 1.4x


Mute Swan by Aves Lux, on Flickr

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