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movax posted:I added a U6-Lite AP to my garage, and decided to run cable along the ceiling through some surface raceway instead of punching holes because it's the garage, raceway is fine. Have a giant spool of Monoprice Cat6 that I've used before. Installed, crimped both ends, and... no link. I should have tested the cable before calling it good. Managed to get the ends near each other and tested, and had some kind of weirdness between pins 1 and 8. So, I re-crimped it again (cut off the old ends) used my little Monoprice cable tester and this time it passes happily. But... only getting link at 100 Mbit/s, so something's not quite good enough. Forcing to 1Gbit/s instead of auto-negotation results in link failure, so the simple tester is probably just checking continuity but something else could be broken. Punch jacks onto the ends and then use patch cables and see how you get on, crimping plugs directly onto solid cable can do strange things.
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Nov 15, 2020 14:33
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Thanks Ants posted:Punch jacks onto the ends and then use patch cables and see how you get on, crimping plugs directly onto solid cable can do strange things. Sorry, to be clear, this is stranded cable; the 6A was solid and I mostly mentioned it to share my doubts that I broke this stranded cable while routing it as I understand that solid cable is more prone to break when abused like that, and I haven’t broken any.. yet.
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Nov 15, 2020 18:39
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movax posted:Sorry, to be clear, this is stranded cable; the 6A was solid and I mostly mentioned it to share my doubts that I broke this stranded cable while routing it as I understand that solid cable is more prone to break when abused like that, and I haven’t broken any.. yet. Unfortunately to further diagnose you either need to start physically inspecting the cable, replace it, or buy a TDR which can tell you to the inch where the problem lays. If you qualify (maybe you were the one who posted this?) you might be able to get some free replacement cord: https://downloads.monoprice.com/files/forms/Monoprice%20CMR%20Cable%20Recall%20Form.pdf Best practice is to put a rj-45 jack on it, but who really cares if you're the one fixing it.
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Nov 15, 2020 19:44
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Okay guys, I need to buy a new router. I don't know a whole lot about home networking so I'm going to lay out what I have and what I want and take whatever recommendations you guys give me. I have U-verse and use their router and wifi and stuff. Comes in, the router and other hardware is on my first floor. The last time they were out I had them give me a line to the basement so I could run my PS4 and some other stuff off of a hardline rather than wifi. The wifi in my basement has always been spotty, but I had them check it and their equipment said it was good. In the basement I have a cheap switch that works great. Sometimes I have people over, and we get in the basement and play Jackbox. Not so much these days (other than immediate family) but it requires phones to play, nad a solid wifi signal. Trying to use the wifi from upstairs results in the game being unplayable. I borrowed another router from a friend and set up a separate wiki in the basement and it worked great... but the router is old, and randomly shuts off. I originally had it replacing the original switch from above, but I've since started using that again and just have the other router plugged into one of the ports and only have it turned on when I need it. So long story short, I want a cheap but functional wifi router for my basement. Something that I can plug into my hardline down there and plug a few other cables into it while also broadcasting wifi. I don't think I need a range extender (though I'm open to whether that would be what I'm looking for...) or anything or a different upstairs router, just something cheap to broadcast its own wifi in my basement that I can jump on once or twice a month when I need it.
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Nov 16, 2020 14:46
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CornHolio posted:Okay guys, I need to buy a new router. I don't know a whole lot about home networking so I'm going to lay out what I have and what I want and take whatever recommendations you guys give me. You just need an access point for the basement. Plug it into the switch, and let it broadcast a wireless signal in the basement. I'm partial to Ubiquiti, but TP-Link makes some that are less expensive and readily available on Amazon. 60 bucks and this will solve your problem. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP2...969&s=pc&sr=1-2 Just plug it into the switch in the basement, configure it, and off you go.
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Nov 16, 2020 16:54
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CornHolio posted:Okay guys, I need to buy a new router. I don't know a whole lot about home networking so I'm going to lay out what I have and what I want and take whatever recommendations you guys give me. You can repurpose a router for this, but I'd suggest a wireless access point! There's a lot of choices but I've got two Ubiquiti WAPs and they're really reliable once set up. I own one of the Ubiquiti AP AC Lites and have set a couple up for small businesses and so far they have been working 100% of the time. https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ The NanoHD is also popular but costs a bit more.
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Nov 16, 2020 16:55
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skipdogg posted:You just need an access point for the basement. Plug it into the switch, and let it broadcast a wireless signal in the basement. What's the difference between that and the N300, which is half the price? Speed?
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Nov 16, 2020 17:31
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I settled on the Asus ZenWifi AX. It seems like a really good balance of price point, features, and function. Digging into Eero 6 reviews made me apprehensive about that system. Specifically that it doesn't hand devices off to the best available node after the device is initially connected. That is still a beta feature and I'm unwilling to bet on it. I haven't found anything about the Asus system that gives me pause. In tests it seems to consistently give better down and up speeds than the Eero 6. I think I'm going to wait to see if any Black Friday sales are announced for it next week before purchasing it though.
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Nov 16, 2020 17:39
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CornHolio posted:What's the difference between that and the N300, which is half the price? Speed? The N300 is a 300 mbit older style "N" access point. 2.4Ghz only. Not terrible if you only care basic connectivity, but I'd personally spend the money on the AC unit which does up to 450 on 2.4 and 867 on 5Ghz. Either one works, and if budget is an issue the 30 dollar solution will fix your problems.
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Nov 16, 2020 17:43
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skipdogg posted:Either one works, and if budget is an issue the 30 dollar solution will fix your problems. Yeah I think I'm gonna get the N300, it'll serve its purpose for what I need it for. Just to be sure, this will be an access point for my existing wifi so I won't need a separate network in the basement, right? Will devices automatically and seamlessly jump on the one with the best signal?
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Nov 16, 2020 17:53
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CornHolio posted:Yeah I think I'm gonna get the N300, it'll serve its purpose for what I need it for. Just to be sure, this will be an access point for my existing wifi so I won't need a separate network in the basement, right? Will devices automatically and seamlessly jump on the one with the best signal? Depends on how you set it up. You can: 1) Name it the same as your other network, and most clients will lock onto the best signal without much trouble 2) Name it something like CH-Basement and just connect to it when you're in the basement. It's up to you. Most clients are pretty good about locking onto the stronger signal, and if the downstairs AP is too strong, you can try lowering the power level on the AP so it doesn't interfere with the rest of the house.
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Nov 16, 2020 18:04
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Wildtortilla posted:I settled on the Asus ZenWifi AX. I've recently upgraded to the XT8 and I'm very happy with it. It was specifically the hand off between nodes that bothered me with my old setup (Netgear R7000 and AVM extender) and that's an area where I thankfully saw big improvements with the XT8, where the hand off is now unnoticeable to me. I've not had it for too long, only about a week, but so far I would recommend it without reservation (tho I am no power user).
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Nov 17, 2020 10:07
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I have a question regarding electrical and CAT6 wires: I have a guy (certified electrician, costs a bunch) tomorrow coming to pull electrical wires in the basement, basically to put in 4 plugs along the walls. The basement is not finished yet, it's in anticipation of the drywalls that I will put up at some point this decade I hope. I will need CAT6 pulled too in certain locations, though I'm not 100% sure yet where exactly they will end. Should I pull the cat6 wire along and near the electrical wire or will it be better to just put them as far apart from the 110V as possible? I can put them on the ceiling since there's no drywall up there either. Or through the studs, if I drill another set of holes.
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Nov 18, 2020 01:07
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Volguus posted:I have a question regarding electrical and CAT6 wires: I would not run them directly along the Romex for longer continuous segments if I could avoid it. 60 Hz will introduce common-mode noise on the pairs, which differential signaling is specifically good at rejecting... but, the distance won't hurt and why not try to minimize any issues? Ethernet is pretty small — I would likely do smaller, second holes right in the middle of the studs and far enough away from the other holes that you aren't structurally weakening the stud (carving a notch is one of the shittiest things you can do). Ceiling run could be a good idea for you for a future ceiling mounted AP. movax fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 01:19
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movax posted:I would not run them directly along the Romex for longer continuous segments if I could avoid it. 60 Hz will introduce common-mode noise on the pairs, which differential signaling is specifically good at rejecting. Ethernet is pretty small — I would likely do smaller, second holes right in the middle of the studs and far enough away from the other holes that you aren't structurally weakening the stud (carving a notch is one of the shittiest things you can do). Thanks for the info. I now learned today that the indoor electrical wires are called Romex (well, a brand, probably as common as google). Running through the big boards that hold up the first floor (2''x??) probably would be better and easier than through the studs, since the insulation is up between them (I'll see how the electrician will handle that tomorrow) and then just dropping down wherever I need them. And, now that you mentioned it, an AP may not be a bad idea either.
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Nov 18, 2020 02:17
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Volguus posted:Thanks for the info. I now learned today that the indoor electrical wires are called Romex (well, a brand, probably as common as google). Running through the big boards that hold up the first floor (2''x??) probably would be better and easier than through the studs, since the insulation is up between them (I'll see how the electrician will handle that tomorrow) and then just dropping down wherever I need them. And, now that you mentioned it, an AP may not be a bad idea either. I am definitely not a licensed electrician (I post in the wiring / home electric thread in DIY to check on code stuff), but yeah, Romex is a trade name and most indoor wiring especially stuff within drywall cavities like what I think you're talking about is some type of Romex. In my place, it's from the late 80s, so any Cat6A I'm installing, I am being clever and piggy backing on whatever happens to be around in terms of gang boxes, minimizing dry wall holes and definitely not doing it as cleanly as I could. I'm just using in-wall rated stuff and being careful when I put a hole in something — not notching studs, and if it's joist, trying to make the hole as small as possible and as close to the middle of the joist as possible.
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Nov 18, 2020 07:32
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I'm looking to get a UniFi doorbell camera, but also keeping an eye to the future for more camera systems. Now that I'm looking in to their offerings, I see that they have a boatload of decent networking gear. Currently we have an old R7000 AC1900 Nighthawk (2015 vintage). Been chugging along nicely for the most part, but the latest firmwares like to crash and there's widespread mistrust it seems, so I had to revert the firmware (we're both working from home and wife has tons of teams meetings, so we can't have sketchy wifi). We don't NEED a replacement, but it's starting to look like that might be the best scenario for what we're planning. Being that our stuff is upstairs, our wifi signal strength isn't great downstairs. It's not awful, but having a mesh network would be great (especially since the doorbell camera would be down there, and it's about the furthest place from the current router, so having strong wifi would be important). I installed an Ethernet trunk going between floors, so we have a physical port for the downstairs we can hook in to. So if we wanted to replace our router, have 2 wireless APs (1 upstairs, 1 downstairs), what are we looking at for parts? Specifically, the Cloud Key seems like an integral component if we want to have remote access to cameras and NVR, right? Is there a better way forward if we're doing a whole replacement, or is buying 4 pieces still the best bet (router + 2 wifi APs + cloud key)? Currently we have on the order of 5 wired devices, then a host of smart home things that run over wifi, but we have a cheap 8-port switch to handle overflow. I understand that we'd ultimately require PoE sources for more cameras, but we can cross that bridge when we get to it. Right now just looking to lay the groundwork for a doorbell camera + updated network.
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Nov 19, 2020 00:03
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DaveSauce posted:I'm looking to get a UniFi doorbell camera, but also keeping an eye to the future for more camera systems. if you're replacing the router you can get a unifi router with a built in controller instead of the cloud key. if you're interested in the protect gear (the doorbell and other cameras) you probably want a dream machine pro. it's a router, poe switch, controller and storage all in one. if you don't need to segregate your network you can get away with just that and a couple of access points for $500-600
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Nov 19, 2020 00:33
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the talent deficit posted:if you're replacing the router you can get a unifi router with a built in controller instead of the cloud key. if you're interested in the protect gear (the doorbell and other cameras) you probably want a dream machine pro. it's a router, poe switch, controller and storage all in one. if you don't need to segregate your network you can get away with just that and a couple of access points for $500-600 Does the dream machine pro do PoE? I didn't see that it did, but honestly I wouldn't be surprised if I missed it since I'm not really their target demographic. If it does, then it seems like a no-brainer. edit: I did some googling and it seems that one of the biggest complaints is that it does NOT do PoE. Confirm/deny? I dunno if maybe they updated, or it's just assumed that it does PoE (hence all the complaints that it's lacking). Also, another question: So would the Unifi APs do a mesh network? I never really checked, but that's one of the reasons I'd be willing to overhaul the network. No real reason to get 2 new APs if they're going to have different SSIDs. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 01:48
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DaveSauce posted:Does the dream machine pro do PoE? I didn't see that it did, but honestly I wouldn't be surprised if I missed it since I'm not really their target demographic. If it does, then it seems like a no-brainer. It does not do PoE. Have to get a switch or use an injector. I wish it had a few for APs or even 1.
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Nov 19, 2020 02:00
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Speaking of routers and poe, how are the mikrotik routers? I had been considering a rack mounted dream machine pro but frankly I keep hearing bad things about them. The mikrotik rack mounted routers seem nice spec wise (including poe ports) but don't know much about them otherwise
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Nov 19, 2020 02:06
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Burden posted:It does not do PoE. Have to get a switch or use an injector. I wish it had a few for APs or even 1. Agreed that I'd prefer it did at least some PoE, but since it can't, your options are injectors or a UniFi Switch PoE 16 Port (or one of their other options, but this is a less talked about starting point)
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Nov 19, 2020 02:28
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DaveSauce posted:So would the Unifi APs do a mesh network? I never really checked, but that's one of the reasons I'd be willing to overhaul the network. No real reason to get 2 new APs if they're going to have different SSIDs. Yes, Unifi APs can mesh if you can't run a cable from a switch to one of them, although you will still have to run a cable from an outlet & POE injector to provide the power to the remote AP.
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Nov 19, 2020 02:29
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Azhais posted:Speaking of routers and poe, how are the mikrotik routers? I had been considering a rack mounted dream machine pro but frankly I keep hearing bad things about them. The mikrotik rack mounted routers seem nice spec wise (including poe ports) but don't know much about them otherwise MikroTik hardware is very strong for the price. The software is generally stable and full featured. It is, however, implemented by Crazy Ivan on a bender, so it is never going to win awards for user friendliness. If you're intending to do anything complex, expect to need to sit down and sift through the documentation and forums--it can likely do whatever you're thinking of, but how to get it to do that may not be obvious.
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Nov 19, 2020 02:31
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KingKapalone posted:Thanks, now to wait for it from China. Mine came with HP 85w large plug. Let me know if you need a p/n.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:51
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Replaced my USG-4-Pro with a T730 Thin client running pfSense last weekend, following this guide: https://nguvu.org/pfsense/pfsense-baseline-setup/ I'm very happy with it's performance so far.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:03
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I have some question about Unifi APs (or maybe APs in general). My house is fully wired (cat 5e) and I'm currently using two Archer C7 routers as access points (using my ISP's modem/router sitting in a closet with its WiFi radio disabled). The C7s are on separate floors and use the same SSID. We go up and down the stairs between these floors with our phones many times a day. It works alright most of the time, but I've got more devices connected now and sometimes one or two devices will just lose connectivity. Usually explicitly disabling and re-enabling WiFi on the device will get things going again. I strongly suspect that our devices are often not migrating from one AP to the other depending on which has a better signal (but not sure how to test it). To be honest, I'm not even sure if that's something that's supposed to just happen automatically anyway. * Is this automatic migration/handoff (not sure of terminology) something a Unifi AP is better at? Or is it just up to the client? * My wife and I both have WiFi 6 capable phones (iPhone 11). Is it worth waiting for the new WiFi 6 version (U6-Lite)? Any way to get my hands on that now? * Is the OP still accurate that I only need the Unifi controller software running 24/7 I if care about the captive portal feature (I don't)? ROJO posted:Yes, Unifi APs can mesh if you can't run a cable from a switch to one of them, although you will still have to run a cable from an outlet & POE injector to provide the power to the remote AP. I thought that "mesh" implies the automatic migration/handoff between APs, but it seems the term is only used if the APs communicate with each other WiFi (not over ethernet), is that right? I really want to understand how this aspect of WiFi works, I've never really seen a good explanation about it.
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Nov 19, 2020 05:49
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Burden posted:It does not do PoE. Have to get a switch or use an injector. I wish it had a few for APs or even 1. Boo, that would have been too easy. Looking at the cost starting to add up, I'm starting to think I might just stage an install. Start with camera/cloud key, then eventually upgrade router + AP, then add another AP for downstairs later, and then whenever I add more cameras I'd get a PoE switch. For some reason I thought the APs were cheaper than they are. Adhemar posted:I thought that "mesh" implies the automatic migration/handoff between APs, but it seems the term is only used if the APs communicate with each other WiFi (not over ethernet), is that right? This is my understanding as well so I guess I'm game for an explainer if someone can  We have the ability to hard wire a downstairs AP, so my assumption was that the APs would be hard wired and have the same SSID, so that devices would seamlessly transfer to whichever AP had the strongest signal.
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Nov 19, 2020 13:04
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Adhemar posted:I thought that "mesh" implies the automatic migration/handoff between APs, but it seems the term is only used if the APs communicate with each other WiFi (not over ethernet), is that right? I used to think this too, until I bought Unifi stuff. The client is responsible for roaming from AP to AP; however, with Unifi gear, there's a bunch of settings (min RSSI, min data rate, output power, probably more I'm not smart enough to understand) that help tune each AP to force the client to roam to the next one.
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Nov 19, 2020 15:12
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DaveSauce posted:This is my understanding as well so I guess I'm game for an explainer if someone can I guess I'll admit to maybe not understanding the specifics of what "mesh" really entails (I think of it as it tends to be used in consumer hardware - a dynamic wireless network topology between nodes) - but I was referring to the ability of the Unifi APs to wirelessly bridge to other APs on the same network to extend coverage (and use the same SSID(s), have transparent handoffs, etc) because I guess I missed you were able to hardwire everything. If you can hardwire both APs, then even better. Exactly same functionality, just doesn't rely on a wireless radios for the backhaul traffic. I have 3 Unifi APs across my house (all wired) - and all 3 of my wireless networks are completely seamless. I used to have one wirelessly bridged, and it worked identically, although I never fully probed the performance of the one wireless unit. edit: as the poster above said, if you tune your radio settings for the APs you can make things even better - but even when I ran default settings I had no complaints about handoffs, performance, etc. ROJO fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 15:17
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I setup my pfSense router with two Unifi AP AC Pros. I have gigabit and I'm getting about 900mbps on my wired desktop and 250mbps on my phone sitting next to the AP. Does that seem right? I'm hoping Virtual Desktop will be fast enough for my Quest 2.
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Nov 19, 2020 16:59
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ROJO posted:I guess I'll admit to maybe not understanding the specifics of what "mesh" really entails (I think of it as it tends to be used in consumer hardware - a dynamic wireless network topology between nodes) - but I was referring to the ability of the Unifi APs to wirelessly bridge to other APs on the same network to extend coverage (and use the same SSID(s), have transparent handoffs, etc) because I guess I missed you were able to hardwire everything. Yeah see I'm not 100% clear myself, which is why I'm here asking questions! My assumption of "mesh" was multiple APs used to extend coverage such that devices will seamlessly transfer connection between APs depending on signal strength. Whatever method the APs use to connect to each other is irrelevant in this assumption. The only thing I thought I "knew" about mesh is that the APs had to have some ability to coordinate, right? So it's not enough to have two wireless APs with the same SSID, they need to be able to work together? And with that, I assumed either some proprietary protocol that a manufacturer uses for all their devices, or best case a standard protocol that my existing AP likely doesn't have available. Because frankly, if I can make a mesh network by simply adding a hard-wired AP, then that's certainly on my to-do list. My assumption was that I would need to replace the existing router, or at least get a new AP and disable the router's built-in wireless.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:14
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KingKapalone posted:I setup my pfSense router with two Unifi AP AC Pros. I have gigabit and I'm getting about 900mbps on my wired desktop and 250mbps on my phone sitting next to the AP. Does that seem right? IIRC being super close to an AP is actually worse, especially if using a high power level on the radios.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:23
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Mesh only really refers to the backhaul from the WAP to the router / WAP controller / whatever. It used to be that if you connected two WAPs together, wirelessly, they would use the same radios that they also used to serve clients. This is bad. So they added radios to just do the communications between WAPs. If you can do it hardwired, even better. The ability for clients to connect to a different WAP as you roam around is traditionally handled by the client. For the vast, vast majority of cases the quick disconnect while it lets go of one WAP and connects to another is fine. It's not more than a couple of seconds, generally speaking. There are technologies that have the WAPs be more involved in handling the handoff between them. Stuff like "Zero Handoff" or "Fast Handoff" or "Seamless Roaming." These work to varying degrees of success, but the truth of the matter is that they add complexity. My advice is that, if you do don't absolutely 100% need every single packet to flow with no interruption as you travel between WAPs, is to just stick with the traditional method. Wireless SSIDs with the same security config and password. "Mesh" networks can help with this because they have a controller that manages all the WAPs for you, so you don't have to set them individually, but there are also other products out there that are not mesh that do the same thing, like for example Ubiquiti's Unifi line and their Unifi Controller. But you don't NEED that from a technical sense. Configuring individual WAPs with the same wireless setup will allow clients to move from one WAP to another without any interaction from the end user.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:24
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withoutclass posted:IIRC being super close to an AP is actually worse, especially if using a high power level on the radios. Interesting. What's a good distance? I just walked over to the area in the basement that's below the other AP which is on the ceiling in the room above me and it's about 180.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:28
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KingKapalone posted:Interesting. What's a good distance? I just walked over to the area in the basement that's below the other AP which is on the ceiling in the room above me and it's about 180. Something is off. I have 500mbit fiber and I can pull all 500 over wifi or ethernet with my AC-lites
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Nov 19, 2020 17:51
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skipdogg posted:Something is off. I have 500mbit fiber and I can pull all 500 over wifi or ethernet with my AC-lites Wow, I have line of sight to my AC-Lite and only pull ~160. Curious what my config is missing, or if it is down to building materials or other factors.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:10
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Internet Explorer posted:Mesh only really refers to the backhaul from the WAP to the router / WAP controller / whatever. It used to be that if you connected two WAPs together, wirelessly, they would use the same radios that they also used to serve clients. This is bad. So they added radios to just do the communications between WAPs. If you can do it hardwired, even better. Interesting, for some reason I thought that would cause all sorts of issues to have multiple identical networks overlapping, which is why I thought "mesh" was defined differently and required special hardware. So with this, would I just configure all WAPs to use the same SSID, security, password, and devices should (almost) seamlessly transfer if necessary? Would I set them to run on the same channels as well? Because that all makes my life WAY easier.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:37
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DaveSauce posted:Interesting, for some reason I thought that would cause all sorts of issues to have multiple identical networks overlapping, which is why I thought "mesh" was defined differently and required special hardware. Yup, that's how it works. The client will test to see what WAP it has the highest strength to and choose that. You'd want to run them on a different channel so there's no interference. One of the problems with some of the fancy handoffs is that they use the same channel.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:46
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DaveSauce posted:Interesting, for some reason I thought that would cause all sorts of issues to have multiple identical networks overlapping, which is why I thought "mesh" was defined differently and required special hardware. I had two of the Asus RT-AC1900P routers using their AiMesh feature but it did not seem to work very well. I am not sure whether it was just insufficient Wifi coverage or what, but I was not able to walk around the house while on a VOIP call (WhatsApp, AT&T Wifi Calling, etc) without it dropping the call when I transferred to a new AP. Extra annoying because cell service is poo poo at my place. I ditched the Asus gear and went full Unifi with 4 of the FlexHD access points, all hard wired. The transition between APs is seamless for me now with my Samsung S8 phone, without having to mess with any settings. You only define a single wireless network and it uses all of the APs you have connected for that wireless network. Also keep in mind, I think all the Unifi APs come with a PoE injector included. Makes it easier if you want to defer getting the PoE switch for now. I do have a couple devices that are right in the middle of two APs, so they tend to bounce between them. I tried messing with the transmission power but I think ideally I need to relocate some of the APs. They were in locations of convenience based on where the ethernet jacks were around the house, and could be more optimal if I added a couple drops.
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Nov 19, 2020 20:54
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