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Al2001 posted:
Sounds like the width of a bottom bracket-mounted chainguard. Weird that the bike is like that though. You can add a spacer to the NDS to make up the 2mm.
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Nov 27, 2020 17:39
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 06:08 |
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Just bottom out drive tight, then do up the non drive side as far as it goes. If both cups bottom out easy there will be no preload on the bearings. If the gap is less than 2mm when tightened down all the way, just leave it.
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Nov 27, 2020 18:32
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Al2001 posted:
I would spacer it myself.
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Nov 27, 2020 18:43
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CopperHound posted:Just bottom out drive tight, then do up the non drive side as far as it goes. If both cups bottom out easy there will be no preload on the bearings. If the gap is less than 2mm when tightened down all the way, just leave it. That's what I did last time, but now if I bottom out the drive side, attempting to tighten the non-drive side pushes out the drive side, so I'm going to try a spacer. (I can't tighten to a point where there isn't play anymore - I could before, I conveyed that confusingly in the original post. Maybe the threads aren't great idk.) Al2001 fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Nov 27, 2020 |
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Nov 27, 2020 18:53
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Al2001 posted:attempting to tighten the non-drive side pushes out the drive side  Sounds like some knackered threads to me. Maybe beyond what chasing can fix. Luckily these things exist and any bike shop should be able to order them for you: https://www.jbi.bike/site/search_usd.php?x1=BOTTOM+BRACKETS&x2=SEALED+CARTRIDGE+REPAIR#BOTTOM+BRACKETS_SEALED+CARTRIDGE+REPAIR
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Nov 27, 2020 19:12
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Yeah that's some wrecked threads Those non threaded repair BBs work really well but don't forget you'll need 2 BB tools to tighten it up. Its one of those things you don't realise till you go to install it
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Nov 27, 2020 19:34
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Ahh that sucks but obviously makes sense if the entire bottom bracket has been moving around in the shell. Like a dope I just thought the bearings were worn so the spindle was moving a little at first, so I probably made it worse riding around. I'll check out those repair bottom brackets. Thanks, good tip.
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Nov 27, 2020 20:07
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Skarsnik posted:Those non threaded repair BBs work really well but don't forget you'll need 2 BB tools to tighten it up. Its one of those things you don't realise till you go to install it Didn’t think of that. The self expanding one from VO expanded enough from hand threading that I could tighten in one side and have the BB hold position.
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Nov 27, 2020 20:11
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Al2001 posted:
The roughly 2 mm your bottom bracket is too wide for the shell, can be adjusted using a 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side.
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Nov 27, 2020 23:04
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Guess what’s back in San Diego....
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Nov 29, 2020 06:10
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What is that?
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Nov 29, 2020 09:14
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VelociBacon posted:What is that? Goat-head thorn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8E95lxyZkGw
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Nov 29, 2020 20:57
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Has anyone heard of this happening? From various bending in the routing, the strands of compressionless housing wiring shift all the way through the housing, poking out one side and pulling in on the other. This is Jagwire KEB (brake housing):  This was all square when I initially installed it. I was using the provided flex hose to run the last bend around the top of the handlebar into the shifter, and the wires poking out were the initial contact point with the flex cable’s integrated aluminum ferrule. And under braking, the housing end was flexing a lot, trying to compress more squarely at the ferrule, leading to some mushiness and visible downstream flexing (like all the way at the rear brake). The LBS’s fix here was to toss the flex portion and run cable all the way into the shifter. The feel is way better. So for now, the strands haven’t dealigned under braking motion? I did a decent job of filing/trimming the cut cable ends before installing, and I’m wondering whether I did imperfect enough of a job that it facilitated the dealignment, or if it was bound to happen with the particular routing I had. Hope eliminating the flex hose makes a difference in the long term.
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Dec 4, 2020 12:08
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It's normal, how long have they been installed for? I've had it happen to every cable housing over time. Tight fitting housing ferrules will minimize it since they'll keep the end flush better. It shouldn't be affecting brake feel at all since it's just the wires shifting through the housing and not spreading apart inside. e: It might affect feel, but that'll be if the strands sticking out are compressing when you pull the level if they're pushing the housing away from the ferrule/cable stop and not because the rest of the cable is compromised. FireTora fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Dec 4, 2020 |
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Dec 4, 2020 12:42
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Brand new. Couldn’t have been used for more than a couple hours. One problem is that none of the shifters, cross top levers, or brakes are really tight, nor can they accommodate even a thin ferrule. So that source of slop will always be there.
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Dec 4, 2020 12:46
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Yeah, not much more you can do really then. It's partly from bending the housing making the strands go different distances. Installing the housing and then doing the final cut while it's as close to its final position as possible will probably minimize it since then all the strands will be slightly different lengths. The real solution to the problem is to get hydro discs though. 
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Dec 4, 2020 12:51
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You need ferrules for shift/compressionless housing. Use stepped ferrules where normal ones don't fit.
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Dec 4, 2020 16:19
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kimbo305 posted:cross top levers The other tips here are all good ways to minimize things, but a system will never feel as good with cross tops installed.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:08
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I'm having trouble finding an ID 5mm - OD 5mm stepped ferrule. Can someone link me to one?eSporks posted:Have these always been part of the equation? Cross tops themselves are always going to disrupt the lever feel and introduce some mushiness and play into the system. They also put a ton of stress of cable housing. Yeah, they were part of my initial build. I strongly suspect operating them (and not the brake levers) was the cause of the dealignment in the short runs between the cross levers and the shift levers. The LBS said the cables leading from the cross levers to the brakes looked better, which again makes sense since they don't move around when the cross lever is pulled. I told the shop to leave the cross levers there for this iteration of the fix just to see how much improvement there was, since it'd be more of a haul to pull the cables through the frame and rerun a new one leaving the cross lever out. I know there's some extra mush built in from them, but obviously I can't easily quantify how much.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:16
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kimbo305 posted:I'm having trouble finding an ID 5mm - OD 5mm stepped ferrule. Can someone link me to one? https://jagwire.com/guides/end-caps Might be a bit long to get great cross top routing.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:31
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I tightened up my brakes this weekend. Now the free stroke is much smaller and I am much happier. It took about 3 minutes to adjust both front and rear, just a little more cable sticking out of the assembly at the caliper and the pads a couple of millimetres closer to the disks when at rest position.
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Dec 7, 2020 05:15
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FireTora posted:Yeah, not much more you can do really then. It's partly from bending the housing making the strands go different distances. Installing the housing and then doing the final cut while it's as close to its final position as possible will probably minimize it since then all the strands will be slightly different lengths. Or full run of compressionless link housing if stuck on mechanical.
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Dec 9, 2020 09:16
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I purchased a canyon bicycle and am attempting setup. I hit a snag with screwing in the faceplate for the "canyon ahead set" handlebar to the stem. 3 of the 4 screw locations allow for hand tightening the screws, but the top right location is not. I've tried using other screws in that spot and attempted multiple screw in but it requires the torque wrench to get it in, but even then it's a not completely flush. Anything I can do here? I rage quit the process a minute ago as the paste was getting everywhere and it's a very fiddly process
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Dec 10, 2020 02:53
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e: wrong thread
Head Bee Guy fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Dec 10, 2020 |
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Dec 10, 2020 03:10
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Thom ZombieForm posted:I've tried using other screws in that spot and attempted multiple screw in but it requires the torque wrench to get it in, but even then it's a not completely flush. Anything I can do here? I rage quit the process a minute ago as the paste was getting everywhere and it's a very fiddly process Take a video and send it to Canyon. Could very well be a QC issue.
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Dec 10, 2020 03:26
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I caught one hell of a stick yesterday. It was dime sized and 3-4 inches long. I finished the ride with the tire holding air through a combination of a dynaplug and some duct tape. What can I do for a more permanent fix? 
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Dec 10, 2020 18:08
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Patch it from the inside. If the hole is big enough for the tire to bulge with a normal patch, you can get fabric reinforced patches. Rema and Hutchinson sell them. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Dec 10, 2020 |
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Dec 10, 2020 18:17
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Thom ZombieForm posted:I purchased a canyon bicycle and am attempting setup. I hit a snag with screwing in the faceplate for the "canyon ahead set" handlebar to the stem. 3 of the 4 screw locations allow for hand tightening the screws, but the top right location is not. I've tried using other screws in that spot and attempted multiple screw in but it requires the torque wrench to get it in, but even then it's a not completely flush. Anything I can do here? I rage quit the process a minute ago as the paste was getting everywhere and it's a very fiddly process Sounds like the stem was improperly threaded or you cross threaded one of the early attempts and buggered it, but sounds like broken from the start. Any pics of the threaded hole? I assume by paste you mean the carbon assembly paste between bars and stem?
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Dec 10, 2020 19:00
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CopperHound posted:Patch it from the inside.
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Dec 10, 2020 20:44
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Apologies for the noob question, I'm not much of a bike mechanic. On my beater/town road bike, which I got for cheap from a guy who built it up, my rear wheel started grinding in a way that made me think it was a problem with the freewheel or hub. It's a solid axle cup and cone hub. After getting a proprietary tool to take off the freewheel and finally getting a look in at the hub, I noticed that one of the cones is really pitted, so that is a problem anyway. But I also noticed this on the cassette side of the hub: https://imgur.com/OoIIzSH https://imgur.com/vhTN63s It looks like...the bottom of the cup fully came off and got wedged further down in the hub?! Am I interpreting that correctly? It may be hard to see in the photos but there is a jagged metal lip on the inside that suggests to me that the bottom of the cup used to be not so far inside the hub and tore off or something. If that's right, how would that have even happened? And, I guess I need to buy a new hub?
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Dec 11, 2020 01:28
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Edit: nevermind, you got it
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Dec 11, 2020 01:31
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Yeah its kinda hosed. I don't have an explanation for how that happens. If you are feeling particularly ambitious, that cup is pressed in and theoretically can be replaced. Here is some info on it: http://bruceteakle.blogspot.com/2017/03/replacing-bicycle-wheel-bearing-hub-cups.html No, I can't help you find the correct cups for your hub. Most people would replace that wheel.
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Dec 11, 2020 01:37
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CopperHound posted:Yeah its kinda hosed. I don't have an explanation for how that happens. If you are feeling particularly ambitious, that cup is pressed in and theoretically can be replaced. Here is some info on it: http://bruceteakle.blogspot.com/2017/03/replacing-bicycle-wheel-bearing-hub-cups.html No, I can't help you find the correct cups for your hub. Oof. Thanks, good to know.
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Dec 11, 2020 03:43
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I don't know a lot about fixing bikes, and am not sure how to figure out what wheel to get, so I could use some help. The local shop wasn't that interested in helping, though I did get some information from them. I have a bike I got back in 2018, used but like-new, a 2016 focus cayo disc shimano 105 60cm XL carbon fiber endurance road per the ad. I think it's this one: https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/bikes/road-racing-bikes/focus-cayo-105-disc-road-bike-2016-blackred__45987 , but the manufacturer (Focus) doesn't list this model. Here's the numbers on my actual frame:   I have wheels: DT Swiss R522db, (per the shop 100x15 (?) thru axle, 6 bolt) disc breaks (I think https://www.ebay.com/c/25003081526, I can't find these on the manufactuere site either  )  This is the tire it uses:  I've always struggled getting the tires on and off these wheels. I found a flat on my front tire this morning from my previous ride, and when I was attempting to get the tire off to change the tube, I cracked the rim. (Feel free to pile on here, the shop kept telling me I'm doing it wrong, though in my defense I can change tires easily on my two previous bikes and all of the other bikes I've had occasion to help with for my wife and friends). Anyway, I need at least one new wheel now, and would rather just get two so that I am able to get the tires on/off without such a hard time as with these ones. On a previous occasion, the shop had told me that these wheels were tubeless tire compatible, which is why they were more difficult to get the tire off of than a wheel that wasn't tubeless compatible. Today thought, the guy said all of the wheels would be equally difficult to change tires on, and they didn't have any wheels of the right size anyway. Feel like I'm on my own to figure this out. What I'm looking for is 1) what size and other parameter wheels will fit my frame? 2) Are there some wheels that aren't so difficult to change tires on?
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Dec 13, 2020 05:48
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The Vikings posted:1) what size and other parameter wheels will fit my frame? 2) You should learn to change tires on difficult rims. Imagine that tire beads do no stretch at all, and then look at rim profiles to see what you might be doing wrong. Failing that, look at the profiles on wheels you are interested in and compare that to wheels you can change the tire on - I can't really be arsed to explain it in text right now. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 06:43
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Remembering that you can move the opposite bead (into the centre of the rim) to the one you are trying to get over the rim is the key to getting the first/last bit of bead over. Also I'm told that starting in the right place wrt the stem is important but I've never really found that to be the case beyond wanting to be at least a quarter turn away when getting the last bit of bead on/off norp fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 08:37
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The Vikings posted:2) Are there some wheels that aren't so difficult to change tires on? What makes mounting/ unmounting difficult is if the run is tall or if the tire bead has small circumference, both of which reduce their relative clearance. Unfortunately, most of these products don't advertise their specific dimensions, so you might not be able to know that a combo is going to be workable beforehand. That's why the shop wasn't interested there -- they have no more info than you do, outside of a few models that might be notoriously hard to work with. Tubeless rims are shaped differently and do err on the side of taller rim walls, but not to the extent that you're guaranteed to break it. If you run into the same difficulties mounting your new combo, it's not the end of the world too have the shop do it.
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Dec 13, 2020 13:22
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Just thought I would check here. Has anyone started making old style six speed cassettes where the smallest cog is the lock ring, or is ebay NOS the only option?
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Dec 13, 2020 20:13
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You mean uniglide cassettes? Nos is the only option as far as I know.
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Dec 13, 2020 23:01
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Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack? I really don’t feel like dropping $280 for a handmade front rack. https://www.passandstowracks.com/
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Dec 14, 2020 01:39
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