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Cowslips Warren posted:Just scrub the entire top of the battery/that side of it, or just where the cable connects? All the exposed metal, so the battery post and the termanal ring thing Disconnedt the battery before cleaning Make sure your water/soda mix doesn't pool on the top of the battery and short itself between its posts ir something silly simplefish fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Dec 26, 2020 |
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Dec 25, 2020 22:57
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Are all windshield wipers created equal or are there particular ones I should be buying, and how often should I get new ones? It rains really hard here very frequently and my current ones aren't doing the job anymore. No snow or ice to deal with. 2010 Nissan Xterra if that matters.
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Dec 26, 2020 03:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are all windshield wipers created equal or are there particular ones I should be buying, and how often should I get new ones? It rains really hard here very frequently and my current ones aren't doing the job anymore. No snow or ice to deal with. Some are better than others, but the good ones are expensive and I find them not to be worth it. I just buy whatever Sams Club (Peak Optix branded) or Costco (Michelin branded) is selling for about 10 bucks and replace them as needed. It doesn't rain much where I am, but the heat and sun are really tough on wipers. Sometimes if my car is getting the oil changed at the dealer Ford will run a special on replacement blades for 19.99 installed, if so I'll have the dealer swap them. You can splurge on a nice set of Bosch Icons or full silicone blades if you want to give them a try, but just replace them every 6 or 9 months with inexpensive blades.
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Dec 26, 2020 04:03
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are all windshield wipers created equal or are there particular ones I should be buying, and how often should I get new ones? It rains really hard here very frequently and my current ones aren't doing the job anymore. No snow or ice to deal with. Get yourself an application of Aquapel and then shrug at your wipers because they become water movers rather than removers.
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Dec 26, 2020 04:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are all windshield wipers created equal or are there particular ones I should be buying, and how often should I get new ones? It rains really hard here very frequently and my current ones aren't doing the job anymore. No snow or ice to deal with. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3S8udUSKtY&t=10s Not even close to equal.
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Dec 26, 2020 09:02
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The $2 ones from rock auto excel at getting rain off your window. e: not sarcasm.
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Dec 26, 2020 09:08
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I've got a 73 Cutlass running 255/60R15 tires up front. How would fitting shorter tires up front change the steering response or turn radius?
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Dec 26, 2020 15:08
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Shouldn't be noticeable. The shorter sidewalls may translate more road impacts through to the suspension, but that may not be noticeable either. I run 215/75 - 14s on my Bonneville because that's the largest tire I can find that's not Coker.
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Dec 26, 2020 16:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are all windshield wipers created equal or are there particular ones I should be buying, and how often should I get new ones? It rains really hard here very frequently and my current ones aren't doing the job anymore. No snow or ice to deal with. Not all equal, but you'll find they're much cheaper on Amazon vs a parts store. And even cheaper on Rockauto. Get new ones when they streak or chatter. KakerMix posted:Get yourself an application of Aquapel and then shrug at your wipers because they become water movers rather than removers. Also, this. Even RainX is a game changer, but Aquapel is much better. You don't even need the wipers with that stuff applied, it just beads up and rolls off.
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Dec 26, 2020 18:23
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Cowslips Warren posted:3 years. For 19 years now I have kept a battery terminal/cable cleaning tool in my car kit and it has saved me many times. Turn the shitbox off, pump gas, turn the key, silence, clean terminals, start up and drive away. My dad gave the tool to me for my second car and I will keep it in my trunk until I buy a car without a traditional battery.
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Dec 26, 2020 18:55
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MrKatharsis posted:For 19 years now I have kept a battery terminal/cable cleaning tool in my car kit and it has saved me many times. Turn the shitbox off, pump gas, turn the key, silence, clean terminals, start up and drive away. My dad gave the tool to me for my second car and I will keep it in my trunk until I buy a car without a traditional battery. Any certain brand I should get/avoid? is it safe to leave in the car when summer temps hit (ie, over 110 for me)? New battery and cable and install was about $300. Could have been worse, and I still boggle at how the battery lasted for 3 years.
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Dec 26, 2020 19:54
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I swear the wiper blades I get from Rockauto seem like they're old stock that's sat around too long and have started to harden from age. I've had new blades from there chatter right away. They're absurdly cheap to be fair. I just get new ones from Costco once a year or so when they have whatever they're carrying on sale.
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Dec 26, 2020 20:33
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Ugh the Costco goodyears are poo poo
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Dec 26, 2020 20:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:get from Rockauto seem like they're old stock that's sat around too long This is literally exactly what they are, because that is Rockautos business model. they buy up new old stock auto parts cheap, then sell them at below normal market rates. everything they sell has been sitting on the shelf for years. which is fine for poo poo like 02 sensors or spark plugs or wheel bearings or gasket kits. Wipers not so much.
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Dec 26, 2020 20:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:I just get new ones from Costco once a year or so when they have whatever they're carrying on sale. It’s frustrating because we’ll get rain over maybe a 6 week period and then nothing for a year. The end result is that it just makes sense to buy whatever is cheap because it’s going to get used for about a month and then replaced. Battery terminal cleaner tool chat: They’re pretty interchangeable all metal tools. I got something identical to this at Autozone years ago: Metal Battery Post and Terminal Cleaner https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002PS7QRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xZ55FbP9ZBVCD ... and would certainly leave it in a car at any temp.
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Dec 26, 2020 21:37
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Cowslips Warren posted:Any certain brand I should get/avoid? is it safe to leave in the car when summer temps hit (ie, over 110 for me)? It's just a wire brush that looks like a vagina dentata fleshlight with another wire brush shaped like a little xmas tree. I have no idea of the brand, it's probably as old as me. It won't get you out of needing a new battery though, it will just get you going again. edit: Krakkles posted:Metal Battery Post and Terminal Cleaner https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002PS7QRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xZ55FbP9ZBVCD Yeah it's basically that.
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Dec 26, 2020 21:43
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Cowslips Warren posted:Any certain brand I should get/avoid? is it safe to leave in the car when summer temps hit (ie, over 110 for me)? Lead acid batteries can be funny sometimes. I got 9 years out of the original battery in my Corolla, and when I got rid of it it was, according to the dealer's inspection thing at '75%'. That was through cold winters, hot summers, sitting and listening to the radio for long periods etc.. But some of the batteries from work equipment last a year or two. All theyre really doing is starting our machines and maybe running some lights every now and then. I suppose the actual quality of the battery is a big factor too.
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Dec 26, 2020 21:49
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Charles posted:Ugh the Costco goodyears are poo poo My Costco has had Michelin wipers for a while. Only problem with them was one of the two sizes the Canyon needs, didn't come with the adapter to fit the Canyon (and this seems to be on purpose). Krakkles posted:I know you and I both live in places that get Hot, and I’ve found that no matter the brand, nothing lasts more than a season. Yup, this is why I've just switched to replacing them about every year instead of waiting for them to wear out. If I wait for them to wear out, I'll have driven through the one storm for the next few months with lovely wipers.
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Dec 26, 2020 22:14
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Hey, I have a 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis and I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue with the 2-speed cooling fan. When the engine is hot, the low speed mode does not engage, so my car will just sit there and eventually overheat. The only way I can make the fan come on is if I turn the AC on, and then the high-speed mode engages. Things of note: -I just replaced the entire fan unit with a brand new one. -The PCM in my car is from a 1998 police car because my antitheft system was going crazy with the previous standard PCM and wouldn't allow me to start the car. -I have a cheap OBD2 reader, which apparently is so cheap that it can't communicate with this PCM. However, it could with the previous one. The car otherwise runs totally fine. -The wiring pigtail to the fan is brand new. -The fan WILL engage low-speed mode if I jump it to the battery, it's just not getting a signal from the PCM or whatever that's supposed to turn it on otherwise. Anybody have any ideas? I know that I can drive around with the AC on all the time to keep the fan going, but it seems like that might eventually wear the fan out faster and I'd prefer to just get this weirdness fixed if possible.
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Dec 26, 2020 22:32
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I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the windshield molding has come off. It was given to me by my parents and it had come loose while they had it and they had someone glue it down. Do I have to remove the windshield to replace it? If so, would someone like Safelite replace it when they replace the glass?
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Dec 26, 2020 22:42
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Achtane posted:Hey, I have a 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis and I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue with the 2-speed cooling fan. When the engine is hot, the low speed mode does not engage, so my car will just sit there and eventually overheat. The only way I can make the fan come on is if I turn the AC on, and then the high-speed mode engages. How are you jumping the fan to battery - are you just hooking the giant wires to the fan to the battery, or are you triggering whatever relay the PCM would control to turn the fan on? PCM communication - yes, a lot of the super cheap OBD2 scanners out there did not properly implement the particular OBD2 standard that Ford used early on. I ran into this with my '98 Ranger. However, the fact that it could communicate with the old PCM but not the new PCM makes me seriously question whether or not you've got the right PCM in there. I don't know how much wiring varies between a P71 and a Grand Marquis but it's conceivable that the P71 computer outputs the low speed fan control on a different pin than the Grand Marquis harness would use.
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Dec 26, 2020 22:46
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Mister Kingdom posted:I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the windshield molding has come off. It was given to me by my parents and it had come loose while they had it and they had someone glue it down. Do I have to remove the windshield to replace it? I don't know your car specifically, but in most cases the windshield molding needs to come off to replace the windshield, not the other way around. Is it these pieces? https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2004_Corolla/Windshield-Molding/63139706/7553302050.html
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Dec 26, 2020 22:56
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Motronic posted:I don't know your car specifically, but in most cases the windshield molding needs to come off to replace the windshield, not the other way around. It's the outer surround molding. It just peeled away from the body.
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Dec 27, 2020 00:28
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Achtane posted:Hey, I have a 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis and I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue with the 2-speed cooling fan. When the engine is hot, the low speed mode does not engage, so my car will just sit there and eventually overheat. The only way I can make the fan come on is if I turn the AC on, and then the high-speed mode engages. Does check engine light come on when you first start the car? Does your gas mileage suck?
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Dec 27, 2020 00:32
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C-Bangin' it 
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Mister Kingdom posted:It's the outer surround molding. It just peeled away from the body. I don't know what that means. Are you saying that is the same part or a different part than what I linked? If you'r on phone or something and can't see that link these are the parts I'm talking about : 
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Dec 27, 2020 01:08
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Motronic posted:I don't know what that means. Are you saying that is the same part or a different part than what I linked? Yeah, that's the part. I assume it's just glued in place. but what kind of glue?
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Dec 27, 2020 01:53
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Mister Kingdom posted:Yeah, that's the part. I assume it's just glued in place. but what kind of glue? It's doubtful it needs glue. It's likely broken (i.e., the part that holds it in is broken off in the part of the car that holds it there) Again, I don't know your particular car. Maybe someone else can confirm.
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Dec 27, 2020 02:04
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Colostomy Bag posted:Does your gas mileage suck? Achtane posted:Hey, I have a 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis How could he tell 
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Dec 27, 2020 02:18
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I am not familiar with that specific year/make/model, but when my 2012 Flex needed a new windshield, it had this plastic reveal molding around the three sides like in that diagram that the Safelite guy just peeled off using a razor gaffe and re-adhered it with 3M from a caulk gun, taped it down & told me to remove the tape after at least 12-hours.
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Dec 27, 2020 02:21
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It’s usually either “the thing that holds the windshield in” or what Painter described. If the windshield is still in there, I’d bet on the latter. And fixing it ... depends on how much you care. I’ve definitely seen it fixed with a caulk gun pretty effectively.
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Dec 27, 2020 02:38
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Krakkles posted:It’s usually either “the thing that holds the windshield in” or what Painter described. The car is in excellent condition, so I would want to do it the right way.
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Dec 27, 2020 02:57
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Mister Kingdom posted:The car is in excellent condition, so I would want to do it the right way. I had a 99 Camry that had the same thing happen a few years back. I just went to the auto parts store and got some specific adhesive made for weatherstripping by 3M and glued it back down. Unless the trim bit is physically damaged and needs replacement, that ought to work. It sounds to me like your parents had it repaired the right way.
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Dec 27, 2020 12:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:How are you jumping the fan to battery - are you just hooking the giant wires to the fan to the battery, or are you triggering whatever relay the PCM would control to turn the fan on? I was just hooking wires straight from the battery to fan. Colostomy Bag posted:Does check engine light come on when you first start the car? It comes on when the key's in "on" position but it doesn't stay on while the car is running. The gas mileage sucks because it's a Grand Marquis but it doesn't suck any more than usual, haha. So, I actually just re-replaced the coolant temperature sensor and took it for a drive. And....the cooling fan works as intended! So, yay. Thank you guys for the replies. It's still a little worrisome that I can't communicate using my lovely OBD2 scanner, but whatever.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:55
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Achtane posted:I was just hooking wires straight from the battery to fan. The clone elm scanners are not perfect and it's pretty much impossible to not get a clone one sadly. That and early Fords don't always play nice.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:00
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Achtane posted:I was just hooking wires straight from the battery to fan. Yeah, that's why I asked about the light and the gas mileage. I figured the pcm would bitch enough about the temp reading low for so long and being stuck in open loop.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:40
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Charles posted:The clone elm scanners are not perfect and it's pretty much impossible to not get a clone one sadly. That and early Fords don't always play nice. That reminds me, I've always wanted to ask you guys about those OBD HUD thingies on eBay and co: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Head-U...2AAAOSwel1ekD01 I like stupid poo poo and having a water overheat warning, and these things seem to fit both categories. I however don't know if they work with a 1999 Chrysler Voyager (as far as I've found, the data is there, and I could read speed and water temp with an ELM adapter). Any guesses?
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Dec 27, 2020 23:16
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It's likely using the same pirated ELM code for interfacing, so it should work. My own stupid question. Had a license plate stolen. My front plate is mounted via a $6 bracket from Walmart that just screws into the bumper cover. Apparently front plates getting stolen is An Issue in the neighborhood my workplace is in. (I thought the plate maybe got torn off on a dirt road, got new plates today, found the bracket and screws fully intact). Security screws worth it, or should I just keep the ~$7 fee set aside in case a plate moves out on its own again? The holes there already are fairly large (not factory drilled, PO had the plate directly on the bumper... I've added a cheap Walmart bracket, at least). If they are worth it... suggestions? I can hog the holes out enough to take an insert if I need to. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 16:30
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STR posted:What specific EGR code is it throwing? If it's "flow when no EGR called for", then the valve is stuck open, and the rough idle would very much confirm that. Or the vacuum lines are mixed up to the valve. P0221 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem" P0638 "Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance (Bank 1) P0122 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input" After googling a bit, seems like either a throttle body issue, or a broken wire near it. The guy near the end of the thread had the exact same set of codes: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-fit-73/honda-jazz-fit-2005-p0638-p0122-3186613/ So unless someone has a horror story with a similar scenario, I'm going to make him an offer tomorrow. There's a bit of pilot bearing noise when cold but otherwise it's in pretty good shape and should do what i need.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:00
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STR: Seems like cheap insurance against the hassle to me. Might be just enough work to get the theives to steal from someone else.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:01
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Yeah, and I live in copland. I've already been stopped twice over it. I've been stopped more times in this sleepy suburb in the ~2 yrs I've been here than in the past 20 loving years combined.  I've never paid much attention to the antitheft screws - guessing they require clips in the bumper? The ones I saw at Walmart were a very fine pitch, while the screws holding my bracket and plate on right now are basically sheet metal screws with a coarse pitch - but they're just screwed through the plastic bumper cover right now (these are the screws that came with the mounting kit when I bought it last year).. I don't really go into any parts stores except for Advance, and always for an online order pickup, so... don't exactly browse them much. IDGAF about wallowing the holes out to accept inserts/clips if I need to - the car is very much a beater. mobby_6kl posted:After googling a bit, seems like either a throttle body issue, or a broken wire near it. The guy near the end of the thread had the exact same set of codes: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-fit-73/honda-jazz-fit-2005-p0638-p0122-3186613/ Probably a safe bet, but the "pilot bearing noise" is possibly (probably) the main input shaft bearing inside the transaxle. * Source: I've blown up several Honda transaxles They'll go for quite awhile making noise, but if it's in the early stages (i.e. only while cold), you probably have a year or two that you can get out of it. Just don't plan on being able to rebuild the transaxle (I tried once, and it was ~$3k... should have just thrown a junkyard transaxle in - only usable hard parts were gears and case). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 18:36
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