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If one doesn't climb though what is even the point of a campus board.
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Dec 16, 2020 22:37
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It's still a good upper body and back workout and if they are into the ninja/obstical stuff solid cross training
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Dec 16, 2020 23:04
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I'd build ninja type stuff if I were you. You won't be able to do much except jugs on a 45 degree wall if you're not a climber and on a small wall that will get old quickly. Also, you probably wouldn't have the knowledge to set fun boulders. A peg board, salmon ladder thing, campus board jugs or devil steps thing would be better training and more fun for a non climber
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Dec 16, 2020 23:23
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Can anyone give me the lowdown on the climbing/gym scene in Tampa?
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Dec 17, 2020 14:40
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Do you guys have a cool ab routine I could slap at the end of my climbing a couple times a week? I tend to favor bar or on the wall stuff, but I suck at being consistent because I'm always improvising basically. So I'm trying to build a small bank of exercises where I do X number of sets/reps of them.
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Dec 18, 2020 22:18
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I was trying to do planks, russian twists, and scissor kicks but I'm so bad at doing them consistently. one of the Real Good Climbers who works at my gym recommended that, he does a minute of each three times over. Planks I can do decently but the other two I'm dying after only 30 seconds.
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Dec 18, 2020 22:22
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If there's a bouldering cave with a good jug in it, leg lifts from hanging to various holds out to the left and right (and in front) is great
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Dec 18, 2020 22:44
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Here is what Hoseok Lee (a strong Korean climber who is most known for Moonboard stuff) does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHHEKcfVIsg&t=897s It looks insane, but it tracks with other stuff I've heard about core training, like concentrating on strength movements rather than endurance ones.
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Dec 18, 2020 23:12
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Yeah that is what I'm talking about, but in a cave. Do that a few times a week and your core will improve dramatically over the course of 6 months.
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Dec 19, 2020 00:55
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Sab669 posted:I was trying to do planks, russian twists, and scissor kicks but I'm so bad at doing them consistently. My only problem with that is that it seems to favor endurance, could be a cool finisher though. armorer posted:If there's a bouldering cave with a good jug in it, leg lifts from hanging to various holds out to the left and right (and in front) is great That's what I tried to do in the past (or on the bar if there was nothing good enough to hold on in the steeper sections), but I'm always at a loss about the number of reps/sets to do. What do you aim for? Jester Mcgee posted:Here is what Hoseok Lee (a strong Korean climber who is most known for Moonboard stuff) does: That's cool, similar to what I was trying to do in the past, but with a rep/set scheme to help me. I wouldn't be able to do it that slow/controled on a bad hold, but on jugs it should be fine. His pull-up training thing is insane though, 100 pull-ups of different variation with 45secs to 1 minute rest in between. Thanks a lot guys, will probably try to progress toward something similar to what he does for abs. Seems reasonable enough and very climbing-specific.
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Dec 19, 2020 01:08
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I always did three set of 10, but I wasn't always able to complete them. The cave would be reset every so often, sometimes without a jug, and I'd have to find another spot to do the same general thing. I would do it at the end of each climbing session alternating with three sets of 10 pushups. Typically 3 days a week. My climbing has gone to poo poo this year, but I'll be back on that routine when the gyms reopen and seem safe.
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Dec 19, 2020 01:16
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armorer posted:I always did three set of 10, but I wasn't always able to complete them. The cave would be reset every so often, sometimes without a jug, and I'd have to find another spot to do the same general thing. I would do it at the end of each climbing session alternating with three sets of 10 pushups. Typically 3 days a week. My climbing has gone to poo poo this year, but I'll be back on that routine when the gyms reopen and seem safe. Sounds like a good plan. I also need to do more push-ups anyway! Thanks a lot I'll copy that.
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Dec 19, 2020 01:41
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Are there any replacements for ARCing, or more generally increasing your endurance and aerobic threshold, that can be done at home? Even pre-covid trying to get to the gym at a time where there was space to do this type of exercise was rough and there's pretty much no chance now.
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Dec 19, 2020 01:58
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KingColliwog posted:Sounds like a good plan. I also need to do more push-ups anyway! If it's too hard at first, just do what you can leg lift wise and when you start failing on each set switch over to knee raises (to chest) to finish it out. Your abs might loving hurt to the point that it affects your digestion for the first week or two.
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Dec 19, 2020 02:00
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I miss my gym Started off the year with a back injury, then lockdown and now just waiting for the vaccine Been nearly a year without climbing 
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Dec 19, 2020 02:18
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asur posted:Are there any replacements for ARCing, or more generally increasing your endurance and aerobic threshold, that can be done at home? Even pre-covid trying to get to the gym at a time where there was space to do this type of exercise was rough and there's pretty much no chance now. Running at an intensity and length comparable to the climbs you are trying to do is the only thing I can think of
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Dec 20, 2020 02:47
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KingColliwog posted:Do you guys have a cool ab routine I could slap at the end of my climbing a couple times a week? When I was doing a program with the Power Company I had a relatively short set of body weight exercises they had me doing throughout the week. I don't have my notes with me but core exercise wise I remember doing hollow body holds and push up position bird dogs. Hollow body holds, especially after a couple hours of climbing, really crushed me. Both exercises really have you focus on generating tension and they seemed pretty helpful. I definitely felt myself being able to generate more tension throughout my body over the course of the training. I'm sure the on-the-wall training was helping more but those felt helpful. I managed to be in the best climbing shape of my life just in time for the pandemic.
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Dec 20, 2020 15:13
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asur posted:Are there any replacements for ARCing, or more generally increasing your endurance and aerobic threshold, that can be done at home? Even pre-covid trying to get to the gym at a time where there was space to do this type of exercise was rough and there's pretty much no chance now. It's really, really difficult. If you have a near vertical home wall you can traverse. If you only have a hang board, you can use a couple pulleys to take weight off and walk your hands around the holds, but that's an order of magnitude more boring that regular ARCing, which is intolerable. I wouldn't bother with that kind of endurance training at home. Increasing your finger strength will have a side effect of increasing your endurance because it makes formerly stressful holds feel easier, compared to what you're used to once you have a higher level of strength. It sounds like you have a copy of RTCM, see page 92 for more  . If I were in your position, I'd spend my time doing repeaters, max hangs, or density hangs.
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Dec 21, 2020 03:33
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Hot Diggity! posted:I miss my gym No outdoor climbing in your area or are you forbidden to go outside? Its been a pretty good outdoor year here in Sweden.
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Dec 21, 2020 11:57
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Sigmund Fraud posted:No outdoor climbing in your area or are you forbidden to go outside? Its been a pretty good outdoor year here in Sweden. Closest outdoor options are a few hours away, unfortunately
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Dec 21, 2020 14:44
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Niyqor posted:When I was doing a program with the Power Company I had a relatively short set of body weight exercises they had me doing throughout the week. I don't have my notes with me but core exercise wise I remember doing hollow body holds and push up position bird dogs. Cool, I'll add those in when I can't do it at the gym or can't be bothered to setup my rings. I do plenty of yoga and mobilisation so these will be fun to incorporate there. I did those at some point but never regularly, getting a solid routine that I stick with will be the challenge here. I also started to spend a lot of my sessions where I don't have friends climbing with me just doing either kilterboard climbing at 40 to 50 degrees (which is amazing for working on all the things I'm terrible at and surprisingly fun) or roofy problems. Can't wait to see if I can send harder stuff in 6 months when it's climbing season again! KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 18:16
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Jesus Christ. Tampa is a goddamned wasteland for climbing. 
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Dec 26, 2020 18:30
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gamera009 posted:Jesus Christ. Tampa is a goddamned wasteland for climbing. So are you moving there then? Just have to up the bike/fish/scuba time I think.
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Dec 26, 2020 18:38
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gamera009 posted:Jesus Christ. Tampa is a goddamned wasteland - native Tampon goon As someone who got and recovered from covid a month ago, I really selfishly hope seattle opens up gyms on the 4th like they plan to. But also lol if they do. It would kind of make no sense. But I only got into bouldering around 6 months prior to covid closing everything down and I was loving obsessed, and now I have only gone once back in October right before they shut it down again. My hands / shoulders / back have become so weak
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Dec 26, 2020 19:29
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Rorobb posted:- native Tampon goon There’s only one gym in the Tampa/St.Pete area. I’m surprised there isn’t enough to sustain a second gym in Tampa. I want to believe there’s enough to support a CrossFit/bouldering gym that had a small cafe/bar in there. Something similar to how some European gyms operate.
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Dec 26, 2020 20:44
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gamera009 posted:There’s only one gym in the Tampa/St.Pete area. I’m surprised there isn’t enough to sustain a second gym in Tampa. That’s how my gym in seattle is - that would be pretty cool but I wonder what the market for something like that in Tampa is.
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Dec 26, 2020 22:36
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Rorobb posted:- native Tampon goon I haven’t seen any literature proving that gyms have been hotspots with proper protocols. My gym has been open since august generally without issues as far as I’ve seen
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Dec 27, 2020 15:09
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i think i mentioned it here but 4 bouldering gyms (all called the hive) in vancouver and the areas around it have been continuously open since june with a 100%-mask-always-on-no-exceptions policy and as far as i know there have been 0 traced cases of covid from then until now across all four (though i guess it was three gyms for a chunk of it) gyms. and they probably have 200 people a day per gym in them
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Dec 29, 2020 12:38
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Yea my gym has been open since July with masks, reservations, and reduced occupancy and there haven't been any reported cases / transmissions. Some days it's a little too crowded for comfort but most of the time I feel perfectly safe there honestly.
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Dec 29, 2020 13:58
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Stop making me so jealous 
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Dec 29, 2020 17:02
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Verviticus posted:i think i mentioned it here but 4 bouldering gyms (all called the hive) in vancouver and the areas around it have been continuously open since june with a 100%-mask-always-on-no-exceptions policy and as far as i know there have been 0 traced cases of covid from then until now across all four (though i guess it was three gyms for a chunk of it) gyms. and they probably have 200 people a day per gym in them It could be different in Canada but at least in America, our contact tracing efforts are so feeble that it's really hard to say whether it's being spread in gyms or not. Here in Washington state only something like 20-30% of cases are traced to a source, so there's a lot of infections with unknown sources, to say nothing of asymptomatic cases - obviously there are a ton of infected people we don't know about. Not to say that gyms are or are not dangerous, just that I hesitate to use broad contact tracing to support an argument about the safety of anything, and I understand that public health people aren't happy about any kind of nonessential indoor activity and will err on the side of no.
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Dec 31, 2020 07:16
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Catalyst Climbing have a 1 month free code for their online training thing where you get weekly on-the-wall and off-the-wall training plans and a bunch of other things that may or may not interest you. Decided to try it out and see if there's drills and such that I can incorporate in my training routine. Their off-the-wall stuff might be particularly fun to break the monotony of at-home training for those of you who can't/decide not to go to the gym. I can't find the code right now but I think it was STRONG2021 Edit : They also have that code for the free month on their facebook page : HAPPYNEWYEAR
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Jan 3, 2021 14:58
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Are we doing new year's resolutions? Did you achieve yours for 2020? Mine was at least 3 weeklong sport trips to med limestone and one trad trip. Well corona killed that resolution for me but did at least get a week in El Chorro and one in Bohuslän. Guess I should have a more strength related goals for 2021 considering corona so here goes: * Keep rehabbing my dodgy shoulders. Specific goal is to be able to do hard gastons and lock offs without pain. * 5x5 weighted pullups with +20 kg. Can currently only juuust manage it with a measly 10 plate if I feel strong. I'll keep at it twice a week for atleast 6 weeks. * Weighted hangs off the 18 mm edge. Would be super happy with +10 kg for 8 secs. I'll start training it in a couple of months.
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Jan 4, 2021 07:23
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Last year was to lose 10 pounds and send a v6 indoors. I achieved the weight loss pretty early on the year but put almost all of it back on by the end. And I did get a v6 but honestly it was pretty easy and very much my style. I haven't really come close to another since then  although I did hurt my shoulder too which resulted in like 6 weeks of no climbing. Not really a new year's resolution but I'm just trying to add "a new thing" to my routine each month. Last month I did 1,000 push ups (which is 1, 000 more than the month before). This month instead of just daily push ups, I'm going to alternate push ups one day and core the next. 45 seconds of planks, side planks, Russian twists and scissor kicks. 3 sets Next month I'll start calorie counting again. No idea what's on the menu for March, maybe daily yoga. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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Jan 4, 2021 12:37
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My covid workout routine has been amazing for getting my weight down (lost about 20 lbs since my peak in April) so I guess my resolution is to keep it that way while getting my strength back. And actually going climbing some time would be nice.
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Jan 4, 2021 13:07
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I was just walking a shitload more during lockdown and eating out less because everywhere was closed. Then I've been back in the office for 7 months and back to eating lovely take out / fast food  cooking is the hardest/worst
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Jan 4, 2021 13:38
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My goals are : Work on a hard to me lead route outdoor for the first time. Try my first multi-pitch and learn how not to die so I feel ok leading easy bolted multi-pitch in 2022 Send a specific outdoor V5 which felt may be doable when the season ended Hangboard 1x a week or more Lead 1x a week or more Work core + pull-ups + push-ups at the end of at least 2/3 of my sessions Lose 10 to 15 pounds If I do all of that I'll be really happy with myself. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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Jan 4, 2021 17:15
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I was hoping for a V6 this past year but only climbed a handful of times due to immediately blowing out my back and then COVID. Fully expecting to be aiming for consistent V5s again whenever I decide it's safe enough to go back to the gym.
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Jan 4, 2021 17:17
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I'd settle for climbing again
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Jan 4, 2021 18:24
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Hauki posted:I'd settle for climbing again This is where I am at. Based on when I am on the vaccine list maybe May or June.
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Jan 4, 2021 18:29
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