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Thom ZombieForm posted:Edit: Oh I see.. could be alright then, taking a short ride to test Its a little bit higher than it should be but if it shifts fine i'd really not worry about it
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Jan 5, 2021 07:19
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I’ll add that if you don’t have a bike stand it’s probably not worth messing with the front deraileur. I adjusted mine without a bike stand and the experience made me buy a bike stand. Every time you want to test what you’ve changed you either have to take the bike for a quick spin or lift it up on your shoulder or something while spinning the pedals and shifting. With a bike stand, testing is much, much easier to accomplish.
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Jan 5, 2021 12:11
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The powdercoat tape won't stick to the rim in the slightest. Worse than stans. Edit: spray adhesive. Seems to be working. eSporks fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 20:12
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eSporks posted:The powdercoat tape won't stick to the rim in the slightest. Worse than stans. Don’t know what to tell you, but a good number of us use the powder coating masking tape with no issues at all. The adhesive is more water resistant than the “rubber adhesive” Stan’s (aka Tesa 4289) uses.
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Jan 5, 2021 21:43
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It's not very "tacky" but when you get some stretch on it, it'll stay stuck. Unless your rim is teflon or something,
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Jan 6, 2021 04:11
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I couldn't get it to stick enough to even stretch. Rim was clean with alcohol, roughed up with sandpaper. A touch of spray adhesive on the start of the strip gave it enough tack to get started. Held up for an aggressive ride.
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Jan 6, 2021 05:50
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eSporks posted:I couldn't get it to stick enough to even stretch. Rim was clean with alcohol, roughed up with sandpaper. A touch of spray adhesive on the start of the strip gave it enough tack to get started. When I start taping a rim, I run a Pedro's lever over the tape at the edges, over the bead-lock, and in the center channel. It generally stays in place after 2-feet of tape is laid down, though sometimes it'll lift slightly. That's not really a big deal though.
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Jan 6, 2021 06:37
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Yeah, I stick the wheel in the truing stand so I can use both hands - one thumb holding the tape down, the other stretching more down. Then slide my thumb along as I go to force out any air bubbles.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:10
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TobinHatesYou posted:When I start taping a rim, I run a Pedro's lever over the tape at the edges, over the bead-lock, and in the center channel. It generally stays in place after 2-feet of tape is laid down, though sometimes it'll lift slightly. That's not really a big deal though. bicievino posted:Yeah, I stick the wheel in the truing stand so I can use both hands - one thumb holding the tape down, the other stretching more down.
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Jan 6, 2021 21:13
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I am not really planning to do any of these any time soon, but I got two long-term possible upgrades on my road bike. 1) If I were to replace the mechanical disc brakes on my 2x9 with hydraulic, would 10 or 11 speed shifter/brakes work with the limit screws adjusted properly or would I also need to replace the cassette for them to be compatible? I was also thinking about just replacing the front brake with hydraulic, which would avoid this whole dilemma 2) what are the considerations for replacing the front fork with a carbon replacement? I want to maintain the same disposition of the handlebars, but not sure what goes into this
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Jan 9, 2021 00:10
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I would go with some HY/RD calipers honestly, unless you’re looking to upgrade your entire groupset it’s not as easy as just swapping the levers if you’re bike is currently 2x9.
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Jan 9, 2021 00:15
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Mauser posted:I am not really planning to do any of these any time soon, but I got two long-term possible upgrades on my road bike. Yeah get good mechs and nice housing, it makes a world of difference. Your fork needs to have the same steerer size to fit your frame and headset, and needs to have the same axle-to-crown so that steering doesn't get weird. It also needs the same dropouts and width you currently have. Also don't get a carbon fork please, I don't like dead cyclists.
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Jan 9, 2021 00:26
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SimonSays posted:Also don't get a carbon fork please, I don't like dead cyclists. 
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Jan 9, 2021 02:20
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SimonSays posted:
It’s very sad, every year thousands and thousands die from the underreported threat of carbon forks 😞😢
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Jan 9, 2021 02:28
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SimonSays posted:Also don't get a carbon fork please, I don't like dead cyclists.
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Jan 9, 2021 02:28
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Maybe they meant an Aliexpress carbon fork.
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Jan 9, 2021 03:15
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Realtalk: upgrading any parts on a low-end disc road bike ONLY makes sense if you have a deep emotional attachment to the frame. It will almost certainly be cheaper to sell that bike and buy a bike with what you want rather than piecemealing your current bike up to the same specs.
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Jan 9, 2021 03:26
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Yeah, just set up a savings fund for an used bike then do alerts for your size on CL, ebay, pinkbike and check The Pros Closet every so often. You're probably the most likely to get a nicer bike that way instead of waiting for the industry to stock up on the things you want to upgrade through the year.
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Jan 9, 2021 16:09
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bicievino posted:Realtalk: upgrading any parts on a low-end disc road bike ONLY makes sense if you have a deep emotional attachment to the frame. Yeah, I'll skip the fork replacement since I specifically didn't care about the weight on this thing when I got it, but still interesting to learn about. I will probably still do the hydraulic brakes for the front since it looks like parts would be reasonable compared to buying a new bike and I feel like I'm constantly having to readjust that one in particular every few weeks.
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Jan 9, 2021 17:55
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Mauser posted:I will probably still do the hydraulic brakes for the front since it looks like parts would be reasonable compared to buying a new bike and I feel like I'm constantly having to readjust that one in particular every few weeks. Doing hydro for just one brake comes with the significant downside of having mismatched levers. The actual ergonomics might be close if you stay with the same brand, but it would eat at me. Let's just talk out your possible options / checkpoints, order roughly by how involved the upgrade will be: - 2 x 10 shifters, rear derailleur, cassette, front derailleur. Miiight be able to get away without FD, but that's the cheapest part. Will run... 150-200 used, plus cables? - better mechanical disc caliper. might not get your better adjustment. Cheap - self-contained cable-pulled hydro caliper, like Hy/Rd or JuinTech R1. Decent step up in power, shoudn't have adjustment issues, pricier I wouldn't go past this point, in terms of dollars spent vs learning from building and satisfaction from riding the bike. - 2 x 11. Everything's pricier at 11. You'll also need an 11spd capable hub on yoru wheel. Unless you specifically get the Shimano HG-800 11-34 cassette, or a wide range MTB cassette and a SRAM 10-speed MTB RD to work with your road shifter. Totally doable; I've done it on 3 bikes, but costs more. - full hydraulic brakes. I can't think of any 10 speed hydro stuff. You'll need fully external cable routing or a bleed kit and maybe hose cutting/affixing tools. Or have the LBS do it. I don't think there's any
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Jan 9, 2021 23:08
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Shimano Tiagra does ten speed hydraulic, but also bear in mind that most Shimano road calipers are flat mount and it looks like yours are post mount.
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Jan 9, 2021 23:48
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All the little poo poo adds up, too. You're replacing stuff so you need new cables/housing. New bar tape. If you're DIYing hydro you need to buy a bleed kit. etc. etc. etc. Upgrading a bike is just dang near always going to cost more beyond like... saddles and bartape and the like. It shouldn't be like that but because of OEM pricing it is.
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Jan 10, 2021 02:51
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kimbo305 posted:Doing hydro for just one brake comes with the significant downside of having mismatched levers. The actual ergonomics might be close if you stay with the same brand, but it would eat at me. Thanks for writing all this out. Are you saying just to do 2 x 10 without the hydraulic would be minimum ~150-200? And yeah I might look into a better mechanical one whenever I get around to this instead if that's before you even get to the brakes. I do have another bike with hydraulic and it's amazing and that's what got me thinking about it. mikemelbrooks posted:Shimano Tiagra does ten speed hydraulic, but also bear in mind that most Shimano road calipers are flat mount and it looks like yours are post mount. Yeah definitely post mounts. Not sure how that works if it's possible to use an adapter in that situation. Sounds like this is all way more work/money than it's worth. bicievino posted:All the little poo poo adds up, too. I might check what the LBS quotes me on this, but looks like parts alone are quite expensive so yeah
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Jan 10, 2021 03:27
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Mauser posted:Thanks for writing all this out. Are you saying just to do 2 x 10 without the hydraulic would be minimum ~150-200? Scouting stuff out on ebay should always be a starting point for project scheming https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-RIVAL-CARBON-10-SPEED-DOUBLE-2-X-10-DOUBLETAP-SHIFTER-SET/303841443477 https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-Rival-2x10-Speed-Front-and-Rear-Derailleurs/313371890640 If that's short cage, it's 28t max, 30 if you can find one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-8-9-10-11Speed-Road-Bike-Cassette-Chain-11-25-28-32-36T-Sprocket-Chains-Cogs/223626183477 3rd party cassette and chain saves a bit of cash. I would get used parts from a friend or someone I knew, but not online. Comes to 207 for mid-tier parts. Plus $20 for new cables. Plus chain breaker if you don't want to go to the LBS to size your chain. You could do cheaper at a lower tier or just waiting longer to find deals or more complete sets. I haven't run a 9spd crank with 10spd, and I'm just hoping that the spacing wouldn't be different enough to affect shifting. quote:Yeah definitely post mounts. Not sure how that works if it's possible to use an adapter in that situation. Sounds like this is all way more work/money than it's worth. Adapters for running flat mount brakes on post mounts exist, but they're not common yet.
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Jan 10, 2021 04:31
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Just the set of adapters is $80. Crankset/chainrings should be fine.
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Jan 10, 2021 04:57
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screams HY/RD calipers into the void can update to hydro thats “good enough” to hold you over to a new bike or proper groupset upgrade for under $200, or solve your problem all together and be happy with them, HY/RD is quite good for being a retrofit All you’ll need to install them is a single brake cable because the ones on there will probably be a hair too short, reuse the current rear cable on the front and get a new rear cable, done.
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Jan 10, 2021 06:06
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e.pilot posted:All you’ll need to install them is a single brake cable because the ones on there will probably be a hair too short, reuse the current rear cable on the front and get a new rear cable, done. Hey, some people like running brake cable ends that look like RC car antennas.
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Jan 10, 2021 07:09
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If your beef with mech disks is the readjusting the HY/RD semi hydraulic brakes will definitely solve that and imo they work great.
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Jan 10, 2021 12:51
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When using spray can degreaser on my drivetrain should I worry about contaminating my disc brakes?
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Jan 10, 2021 13:58
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Definitely. Put a physical barrier between the two or even take the wheels off if you have time.
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Jan 10, 2021 14:04
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EvilJoven posted:Definitely. Put a physical barrier between the two or even take the wheels off if you have time. i wrapped a grocery bag around the rotor and caliper last time. If I take the wheel fully off, I assume I still need to use a non-spray degreaser on the cassette or protect the rotor somehow while using the spray stuff.
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Jan 10, 2021 14:18
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I mean, better a degreaser than a greaser.
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Jan 10, 2021 14:23
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Dren posted:i wrapped a grocery bag around the rotor and caliper last time. If I take the wheel fully off, I assume I still need to use a non-spray degreaser on the cassette or protect the rotor somehow while using the spray stuff. Honestly even a piece of cardboard held directly between the rotor and can while spraying will do fine if you're leaving the wheel on. I never go as far as wrapping something on the rotors in that case, taking the wheel off would be faster. If you pop the wheel off then ya for the cassette throwing a bag on the rotor takes 2 seconds.
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Jan 10, 2021 15:43
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If you hit them, just use some isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel and wipe them down.
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Jan 10, 2021 15:59
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Dren posted:When using spray can degreaser on my drivetrain should I worry about contaminating my disc brakes? My answer is you shouldn't be using a spray can degreaser on your drivetrain. Use dish soapy water and a brush.
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Jan 10, 2021 16:34
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e.pilot posted:I would go with some HY/RD calipers honestly, unless you’re looking to upgrade your entire groupset it’s not as easy as just swapping the levers if you’re bike is currently 2x9.
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Jan 10, 2021 17:02
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I'm trying to set up R9070 Di2 FD on my newly acquired used bike. I didn't bother to test shifting with the crank on there before I swapped my crank on, so I'm not 100% sure it was working ok before. I went from 53/39 to 50/34 chainrings. I did notice that the PO had set up the FD high, fwiw. I've set up a few 11spd Shimano FDs before, without much trouble. Ime, they get more finicky when you dial the clearance down to the minimum, but work just fine higher than the 1-3mm recommended range. I've been following the steps here: https://assets.bettershifting.com/di2_dealer_manual_dura_ace_9070_b82c108c3e.pdf The PO did not set up a backing plate, and I didn't have one handy. I fashioned an adhoc out of the top of a tin can lid and doublesided tape, just to rule that flex out as a variable.  Anywhere in the 1-3mm clearance range (inner ring position, edge of outer cage over the big ring teeth), the chain jams easily when pedaling on the stand. The only way I can alleviate is by raising the FD well above the range. At each height, I'd following the install steps (toeing out the cage, tightening, then using the support bolt to make the cage parallel) and then calibration steps (note that 9070 doesn't have low electrical adjustment, just top). The lower I move the FD, the more I encounter upshift jams, where the chain is pretty between the inner cage plate and the inside of the big ring. I got video, but the quality sucks, so it's only good for assessing the qualitative shift. 7mm: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0U9AsnOiQOY 4mm, with the last shift being a near-jam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bkeYKJZKaE Am I missing some setup trick? The inside cage plate is a bit worn, but I don't see anything that could be catching the chain more than usual. This is 4mm (I know it looks more):  e: I've lowered to 2mm and have been trying to observe what happens when it jams. It looks like the inside of the big ring just doesn't lift up the chain as fast as the FD expects. It's a stock Ultegra ring, but a KMC chain. I can't imagine that's some rare combo, though. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 03:55
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I use KMC+Ultegra rings all the time with no issues
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Jan 11, 2021 04:35
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I will say, to Di2's extreme credit, not having to worry about cable tension from the shifter when trying new positions means adjustments are still super easy to test. Almost as easy as eTap, except you can get the Di2 wire trapped behind the cage pivot axle if you're not paying attention, like I wasn't for the first half of my tries.
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Jan 11, 2021 19:48
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Really dumb question, but is the battery fully charged? The FD on my R9070 sounds kinda like that when the battery is getting low. e: also any chance you can get a video closer to the FD/chain and maybe do a slow mo? it's a little hard to tell exactly what's happening
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Jan 11, 2021 19:56
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