|
Head Bee Guy posted:NR200 it is. What's the optimal fan set-up? I have a triple-fan Asus 3070 and a noctua U9 cpu cooler. Are bottom-mounted fans unnecessary with that GPU? I'm planning on doing some light-to-mid overclocking in a room that's naturally warmer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAWXY9ZiPrE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSUK7p9qQnU Great videos from this guy focusing on the NR200.
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 20:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Cross posting from over in the PC building thread. LODGE NORTH posted:I'm starting a new project to try and build a PC that is good at emulation (at least up to PS2/Xbox) but also relatively small. Does anyone have any recommendations at least on cases? If I can find a more-than-decent case, I can kinda just make the other stuff fall into place. But the more the merrier, so if y'all have more recommendations, they'd be equally as appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 21:53
|
|
|
What style of case are you thinking?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 21:59
|
|
|
denereal visease posted:What style of case are you thinking? Out of all of these, the CL530 and NR200P are my favorites, style-wise. I'm not necessarily bound to either one, but they are definitely my top choices if I had to pick.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 22:09
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:Out of all of these, the CL530 and NR200P are my favorites, style-wise. I'm not necessarily bound to either one, but they are definitely my top choices if I had to pick. The NR200, in addition to being cheaper, will give you more flexibility with component choices (especially CPU cooler) and also I believe will have better thermals (which might not be a huge factor if you're just building an emulation box). So if both are okay from a form factor and style perspective, the NR200 might be the better choice. It's worth noting though that the CL530 is significantly smaller than the NR200, so one question is whether the NR200 is small enough for what you had in mind or if you want to go smaller.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 22:24
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:Out of all of these, the CL530 and NR200P are my favorites, style-wise. I'm not necessarily bound to either one, but they are definitely my top choices if I had to pick. I'm sure other posters could come up with more suggestions if you had a better idea of what kind of case, how small, what parts, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 23:14
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:Out of all of these, the CL530 and NR200P are my favorites, style-wise. I'm not necessarily bound to either one, but they are definitely my top choices if I had to pick. There's also the CL520 that's even smaller but will limit CPU cooler height and GPU size. Both the CL520 and CL530 are about twice the price of the NR200 though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2021 23:18
|
|
|
I think the NR200P may be the one I go for. I should've clarified small - for me in this instance - was solely relative to that off your everyday PC. It only being a little under a foot tall and being able to get it in full white makes it pretty easy to fit it into the entertainment space I plan on having it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 00:16
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I think the NR200P may be the one I go for. I should've clarified small - for me in this instance - was solely relative to that off your everyday PC. It only being a little under a foot tall and being able to get it in full white makes it pretty easy to fit it into the entertainment space I plan on having it. Great choice. I have an NR200P in a box.. was considering moving my 9900k and 3080 to it... but my Compact Splash is still going strong. I took some notes when I was trying to fit components into the NR200, not sure if these will be useful to anyone: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s19/sh/09d70781-5cfb-4a7b-0a70-ab13721cadb0/7f08259c2a9e6da624f5aa37691d00c5
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 00:43
|
|
|
I'll definitely give that a look over the next few days. My plans for this build are shifting slightly. Since my highest point of near-full compatibility is only on consoles that don't require much at all, I think I may just make a decently-powerful normal rear end 4K compatible build through Windows. That way I can at the very least keep the dream of an emulation machine alive but then also utilize it to play Windows games that I don't get to play often since my main PC is a Hackintosh/macOS. I'm gonna do some reading and try to figure out parts, wiring, and all the necessary stuff when making a small build, but if anyone has any more recommendations, it'd be helpful. Ideally, I'd like to keep things under 1K not including peripherals. Already have the TV and will probably just find a cheapo keyboard and mouse and prioritize controller playing with one of my spare XBO controllers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 04:07
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I'll definitely give that a look over the next few days. There's also this cool rear end dude on SAMart that sells Windows 10 keys for cheap, so that will reduce the build cost a bit for total system cost.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 04:16
|
|
|
buglord posted:Cant go wrong with the NR200/P, especially if you look at price differences and you wanting to stay under 1k total. I really love my CL530, just because its compact but still can fit gigantic modern GPUs and high end CPUs if you don't plan on overclocking. Heh, I heard he’s also super handsome and smart.  But yeah, I think I should be good to at least start with this case. Just gonna have to take some time to figure out what I wanna actually do Windows game wise.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 04:40
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I'm gonna do some reading and try to figure out parts, wiring, and all the necessary stuff when making a small build, but if anyone has any more recommendations, it'd be helpful. Given your budget, case and stated goals I'd say it pretty much builds itself. The motherboard is $180 and you should be aiming for an RTX 3060 at $320 whenever that comes out/is obtainable. That would get you to ~$1060. It would be 4k 'capable', but you'd have to heavily lean on DLSS and drop settings to get decent framerates with a 3060.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 10:53
|
|
|
drat the NR200 is well built, far more 'solid' that I was expecting. I've always cheaped out on cases before, even though this case really isn't that 'expensive' it's still a huge step up from the cases I've had before in terms of build quality. It's somewhat frustrating in that it's not just every so slightly taller, with 3 slots now basically being a requirement for mini ITX with the thickness of GPU's you're already so close to the size of a Micro-ATX motherboard it kinda feels like you might as well go for it (yeah I know some very specific micro ATX boards can fit already). I guess the downside though is that you would have a pretty odd market segment with a micro-atx case that only takes a SFX PSU, you could of course go for supporting full-atx PSU's but then you would really blow out the size.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 16:38
|
|
|
Is anyone here running a SF750 with any of EVGA's 3080or 3090 cards that require the three 8-pin connections? I've been seen conflicting info about whether it's ok or not, with some sites saying it is, and others saying they don't recommend it. I was hoping to step up to either the 3080 or a future 3080 Ti, but now I'm nervous about the safety of using three connectors.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 17:56
|
|
|
SourKraut posted:Is anyone here running a SF750 with any of EVGA's 3080or 3090 cards that require the three 8-pin connections? I've been seen conflicting info about whether it's ok or not, with some sites saying it is, and others saying they don't recommend it. Not specifically a SF750 but I'm using a Silverstone SFX-L 700 watt psu with an MSI 3080 Gaming X Trio that has 3 connectors. I played Cyberpunk for hours with no issue. I haven't run any synthetic benchmarks, but if you use 2 cables (1 with a pigtail) you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 18:05
|
|
|
Butterfly Valley posted:Given your budget, case and stated goals I'd say it pretty much builds itself. The motherboard is $180 and you should be aiming for an RTX 3060 at $320 whenever that comes out/is obtainable. That would get you to ~$1060. I think I may try to stretch my budget a little bit more to get a nicer GPU - which may be hard as hell - but judging by the Mart and how often they're sold, I don't think it'll be a lost cause. May get a nicer CPU too just to save myself from the burden of absolutely needing to replace it in the future.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
SourKraut posted:Is anyone here running a SF750 with any of EVGA's 3080or 3090 cards that require the three 8-pin connections? I've been seen conflicting info about whether it's ok or not, with some sites saying it is, and others saying they don't recommend it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 18:27
|
|
|
Received the last of my parts and finished my Sliger S610 build last night! I used a 280mm radiator and wow is it tight in there, but it's very well designed so it was easy to work in. Currently CPU idles around 40C, maxing in the low 70s but I haven't stress tested it yet. One thing I have noticed is that it puts out a fairly consistent electrical hum noise which is odd. I've narrowed it down to what I assume is either the motherboard or the pump for my radiator, but I'm not sure what it is. I assume it might be what coil whine sounds like, which would be a bummer because I got a B550 mobo to avoid coil whine. That said, it's not loud and is easily drowned out by just the fans spinning up when under load, or if other things in the apartment are making background noise, but since my apartment is often very quiet it is extremely noticeable. Not sure what if anything can be done about that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 19:17
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:Cross posting from over in the PC building thread. Of course, getting your hands on one may be difficult given they're mostly OEM processors (or laptop). NUC-sized may be possible, but I have no idea what the board and case situation is for those. lurksion fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jan 13, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
Romes128 posted:Not specifically a SF750 but I'm using a Silverstone SFX-L 700 watt psu with an MSI 3080 Gaming X Trio that has 3 connectors. I played Cyberpunk for hours with no issue. I haven't run any synthetic benchmarks, but if you use 2 cables (1 with a pigtail) you'll be fine. denereal visease posted:Three PCIE power cables should be fine. The people reporting problems are using two cables (with one daisy-chained) to make three connections. Thank you both! I actually had previously picked up the individually sleeved cable kit from Corsair, so I do have 2x spare PCIe cables and can use one of them for the third connection.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 21:22
|
|
|
Butterfly Valley posted:Given your budget, case and stated goals I'd say it pretty much builds itself. The motherboard is $180 and you should be aiming for an RTX 3060 at $320 whenever that comes out/is obtainable. That would get you to ~$1060. I think I've more or less decided on a 3070. I think it'll be "easier" to get one and wouldn't push the budget up too much and with the goal of having really solid PC performance, I think it's worth it. One thing I'm seeing though is that a lot of these smaller builds stress how important cooling is, but it's omitted here. Should I look into that a bit too?
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 22:33
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I think I've more or less decided on a 3070. I think it'll be "easier" to get one and wouldn't push the budget up too much and with the goal of having really solid PC performance, I think it's worth it. Yeah if you can stretch the budget a 3070 is absolutely worth it. Regarding the CPU, at 4k the 3600 is only a couple % slower than the 5600x, while being a full $100 cheaper. Any serious upgrades in a few years will necessitate a new mobo/cpu/ram for DDR5 anyway, the 3600 would absolutely tide you over until whenever you need to upgrade. The nr200 is extremely forgiving when it comes to cooling. Get a decent CPU air cooler (for a 3600 anything over $50 would be overkill, even the stock cooler is perfectly adequate but runs loud), and a couple of extra case fans. Run two as top exhaust and depending on the thickness of your GPU, two as bottom intake and you'll be totally fine. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jan 13, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 23:05
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I think I've more or less decided on a 3070. I think it'll be "easier" to get one and wouldn't push the budget up too much and with the goal of having really solid PC performance, I think it's worth it. Undervolting is worth looking into as well. It’s fairly easy to get a decent GPU undervolt with %0 loss. I pushed it even further (by doing a slight underclock) and got a very cool GPU with only a 2% loss on benchmarks. CPU undervolting is quite nice as well. Even a modest offset will make a noticeable change in temperature. Both options are risk free and can theoretically extend the life of your components since you’re putting less voltage and heat onto them. Only negatives are the crashing you get during the first few hours where you find out if you deprived your components of juice. I’m mobile so I can’t link up any guides, but undervolting is absolutely worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2021 23:32
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I think I've more or less decided on a 3070. I think it'll be "easier" to get one and wouldn't push the budget up too much and with the goal of having really solid PC performance, I think it's worth it. Why not the 3060 Ti instead of the 3070? You're getting like, 5% more performance with the 3070 over the 3060 Ti, but it costs 25%+ more.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 01:20
|
|
|
SourKraut posted:Why not the 3060 Ti instead of the 3070? You're getting like, 5% more performance with the 3070 over the 3060 Ti, but it costs 25%+ more. I could be totally wrong, but from what I was looking at, it seemed like an average of 20% better. With that, I was going off the mindset of making it last a little longer in the long run too - great now becoming okay versus really good now becoming barely passable in x amount of years.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 01:57
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I could be totally wrong, but from what I was looking at, it seemed like an average of 20% better. With that, I was going off the mindset of making it last a little longer in the long run too - great now becoming okay versus really good now becoming barely passable in x amount of years. 3070 is closer to 15-20% faster than the 3060 Ti, not sure where they were getting 5% from.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 02:04
|
|
|
B-Mac posted:3070 is closer to 15-20% faster than the 3060 Ti, not sure where they were getting 5% from. 10-15% faster seems typical https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-founders-edition/35.html Combined with the fact that the 3070 has the same amount of VRAM, and I personally see the 3070 as underwhelming in comparison LODGE NORTH posted:I could be totally wrong, but from what I was looking at, it seemed like an average of 20% better. With that, I was going off the mindset of making it last a little longer in the long run too - great now becoming okay versus really good now becoming barely passable in x amount of years. I'm not really seeing how buying a 3070 instead of 3060 Ti will make your purchase last appreciably longer, I especially think the 8GB of VRAM will eventually make it run out of steam at just the same time as the 3060 Ti HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jan 14, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 18:06
|
|
|
Not necessarily longer in terms of it dying, but the differences in performance making it worthwhile to have for a longer stretch of time since it'll at least hit minimum system requirements in however long.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 18:36
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:Not necessarily longer in terms of it dying, but the differences in performance making it worthwhile to have for a longer stretch of time since it'll at least hit minimum system requirements in however long. Right, but the point is that the spec that is most likely to show its age the soonest is that VRAM being stuck at 8GB. The day that either card is suddenly going to be not good enough for whatever minimum requirement concerns you, the requirement that isn’t going to be met is the thing that is the same between both cards, so in terms of longevity, the 3070 probably isn’t going to help you. (Now of that 10-20% performance bump right now is of value to you, by all means, move up the ladder. But you’re not buying time from that move.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 19:32
|
|
|
Or you drop texture resolution from ULTRA MAXXX down to High, chop 2GB off the VRAM needs, and keep trucking for a bit. We all keep worrying that we're not going to have enough VRAM for some reason, when actual objective looks at usage suggest that there's usually not much (if any) difference between the two or three highest texture settings. I'd certainly take 20% higher FPS over the ability to use ULTRA textures instead of High on games that don't even exist yet and probably won't for another 2 years.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 19:36
|
|
|
I'd just buy whatever you can find in stock
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 19:55
|
|
|
DrDork posted:Or you drop texture resolution from ULTRA MAXXX down to High, chop 2GB off the VRAM needs, and keep trucking for a bit. Sure but at that point we are back to the same conversation of “it’s ~15% more FPS, now but it will be ‘obsolete’ at the same time as the lower end option”. Which, again, it’s a perfectly reasonable choice to get the higher end card for the performance boost it gives or the lower end card to save a few bucks, or to say “my budget is flexible as are my needs I will just buy the one that is available to me first”. All of these are good and reasonable criteria! What is not a good and reasonable criteria is “I will buy this more expensive card because it will last me for an extra year or two”. Because in 3 or 4 years time, the reason either card will one day not be Good Enough for whatever game you buy, is going to be the VRAM, or it’s going to be the absences of some new bit of tech that neither card has (whatever 2024’s version of an RT core or whatever is). The extra bit of clock speed and that 15% performance difference is not future proofing you in this specific either/or.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 20:00
|
|
|
CaptainPsyko posted:The extra bit of clock speed and that 15% performance difference is not future proofing you in this specific either/or. Yeah exactly, when $FutureGame is struggling, and hits 30 FPS on the 3060 Ti, a whopping 34.5 FPS on a 3070 is not going to change the experience Edit: not to put a dampener on things, the 3070 is a thoroughly decent card, I'm just trying to point out the folly in choosing it over the 3060 Ti because of 'future headroom' vvv Double edit: Ah, but the 3080 has way VRAM as well as having way more brute force power, but you still don't buy it to future proof, you buy it because you genuinely can push better experiences today with it, if you're willing to spend the cash Triple edit: although none of it matters because it's all based on the originally advertised prices, and we all know what the situation is now HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jan 14, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 20:14
|
|
|
HalloKitty posted:Yeah exactly, when $FutureGame is struggling, and hits 30 FPS on the 3060 Ti, a whopping 34.5 FPS on a 3070 is not going to change the experience I get your point, but at the same time, if $FutureGame is getting 30FPS on a 3060Ti, it'll be getting 40FPS on a 3080, which I'd argue is still not enough to change the experience from "poor" to "good," so there's no reason to get a 3080, either! You're not future-proofing either way, so it seems silly to worry about VRAM when, by the time you hit a VRAM issue, you are likely to already be dragging along the rocks in FPS anyhow. So turning down textures to get back into 8GB VRAM is likely not going to be the big issue--you'll be turning all sorts of other stuff down anyhow. Raw speed now over extra VRAM that doesn't matter yet has almost always been the better choice. Just ask AMD. But yeah, I'll agree with you that it means you shouldn't worry about a 3060 Ti or 3070 ending up "obsolete" at notably different times--pick which one makes more sense for your budget and needs right now. e; I think we're pretty much coming to the same conclusion, (don't bother trying to future proof), but for different reasons. DrDork fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jan 14, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 20:25
|
|
|
As a general rule of thumb, spend X more dollars to last Y more years, is a reasonable thing to consider when deciding between buying newly released/next gen hardware, versus snapping up a great deal on last years model, but it tends to be a poor reason to choose to move up within the stack of products that are all released within the last few months. Obviously, this method of thinking fails when applied to GPUs right now because the market is so hosed (right now, but also, for the past few years when you think about what happened to MSRP's over the course of the 1000/2000 series cards from Nvidia when AMD wasn't even really trying, and how much of the current situation is the result of a long overdue pricing correction) that not only can you not get a bargain on last years GPUs, they will often actually cost more than this years GPUs so long as you're willing to do some F5 legwork. Chevy Slyme fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 14, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2021 20:33
|
|
|
This is all good info. I may still splurge on the 3070 just for stuff I wanna play now. Might pull the trigger relatively soon on everything else and see what magic I can pull off on getting a 3070 soonish.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2021 02:38
|
|
|
So through blind luck, in the space of a month I've managed to get a 5900x, an NR200 and, arriving sometime next week, a 3080. But not just any 3080, the godawful looking but decent performing Palit Gamerock. My question is, at exactly 60mm thickness, which is the NR200's max card slot height, has anyone else tried putting one in theirs or another at an equivalent thickness?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2021 15:50
|
|
|
I'm sure basically everyone ITT is subscribed to Optimum Tech on YouTube but in case you're not, and you have a Zen 3 CPU: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfkrp25dpQ0 I'm a newcomer to PC building having just built my first PC in 15 years so I was a bit nervous about loving around with undervolting (especially given my weird issues with my mobo that you might have read about in the building thread that necessitated dismantling the whole loving thing to get at the CMOS battery) but I followed the advice he gave in this video, and also the other video he did a few months back about undervolting the 3080, and now my system is running a good few degrees cooler in the nr200 with basically no effect on performance so it's definitely worth doing. I've even tested it out with the glass side panel and the GPU is still hovering around 70C, and with the way I've routed the FE power adapter around the bottom fan I can now see the little GEFORCE RTX logo lit up and it makes me happy and possibly considering getting some RGB RAM next time and oh god is this how it starts A side note, does anyone have any recommendations for software to measure how many Watts the system is running at?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2021 16:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Butterfly Valley posted:
You can use the pcpartspicker website to guess the wattage by plugging in your build. To be exact about it you would need to buy a electricity monitor like a Kill A Watt that you plug in-between your PC and socket.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2021 16:55
|
|
