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I thought I fully charged it like a week before I started all this testing, but can top it off and see. And yeah, I can put the camera much closer with slomo.
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Jan 11, 2021 20:02
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So…my rear derailleur (Ultegra group) no longer wants to shift down from the two biggest sprockets. It’ll switch between the two just fine, but won’t shift out any further. The downshift on the brifter just clicks and nothing else happens. The derailleur is lined up, as far as I can tell. I just ordered new shift cables/housing, but is there a good way to quickly determine if there’s also (or alternatively) a problem with the brifter? A few days ago it was working but the shifting felt out of alignment and the rear was having trouble picking gears quickly. A week or two ago everything was fine. waffle enthusiast fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 23:22
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kimbo305 posted:I thought I fully charged it like a week before I started all this testing, but can top it off and see. I'll grab a video of my 9070 FD shifting at some point for a comparison too, they always sound kind of sad/underpowered I think.
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Jan 11, 2021 23:24
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Dangerllama posted:So…my rear derailleur (Ultegra group) no longer wants to shift down from the two biggest sprockets. It’ll switch between the two just fine, but won’t shift out any further. The downshift on the brifter just clicks and nothing else happens. The derailleur is lined up, as far as I can tell. I just ordered new shift cables/housing, but is there a good way to quickly determine if there’s also (or alternatively) a problem with the brifter? 
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Jan 11, 2021 23:44
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Dangerllama posted:So…my rear derailleur (Ultegra group) no longer wants to shift down from the two biggest sprockets. It’ll switch between the two just fine, but won’t shift out any further. The downshift on the brifter just clicks and nothing else happens. The derailleur is lined up, as far as I can tell. I just ordered new shift cables/housing, but is there a good way to quickly determine if there’s also (or alternatively) a problem with the brifter? This is pretty typical of the cable getting munched/frayed at the shifter end. It’s a pretty major flaw in the STI design.
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Jan 11, 2021 23:45
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TobinHatesYou posted:This is pretty typical of the cable getting munched/frayed at the shifter end. It’s a pretty major flaw in the STI design. 3rding this
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Jan 12, 2021 01:26
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Okay yeah, I pulled back the hood on the lever and it looks pretty chewed up in the slot. Also after fiddling with the cable some, the inner lever now plays completely free, no clicking. So it looks like the cable may have completely given up the ghost. Thanks for the help. Now I just need to not gently caress up this internal cable routing 
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Jan 12, 2021 03:05
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e.pilot posted:screams HY/RD calipers into the void Samopsa posted:If your beef with mech disks is the readjusting the HY/RD semi hydraulic brakes will definitely solve that and imo they work great. Thanks for the recommendations. This looks like it might solve the problem and looks like people sell them used for pretty cheap as well
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Jan 12, 2021 15:13
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I have two dumb questions. I have a bike which is my daily driver and which I have ridden about 4000-5000 miles per year for the past 3 years. The bike itself is 7 years old. 1. When I turn the pedals on their spindles there's a grinding noise (kind of like sandpaper). Is there anyway to tell whether the pedal needs grease or whether the bearings have been ground to dust without taking the pedal off? 2. The bike also needs new wheels. Is it worth it to try to find a wheelset online or better to ask a local wheelbuilder to put some wheels together? I know the size I need but the bike itself is a hybrid and doesn't need anything super fancy. Thank you!
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Jan 13, 2021 16:53
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sat on my keys! posted:I have two dumb questions. I have a bike which is my daily driver and which I have ridden about 4000-5000 miles per year for the past 3 years. The bike itself is 7 years old. 2.) Getting wheels built really only makes sense if you can't find what you want off the shelf somewhere.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:04
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CopperHound posted:1.) By the time you get grinding in bearings damage is already done. Grease can buy you some time. A few pedals are worth the effort to replace bearings, most are not. Cool, thank you!
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Jan 13, 2021 17:07
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Dangerllama posted:Okay yeah, I pulled back the hood on the lever and it looks pretty chewed up in the slot. Also after fiddling with the cable some, the inner lever now plays completely free, no clicking. So it looks like the cable may have completely given up the ghost. Trip report. The cable was chewed to poo poo. I had to remove the shifter just to get it out. Thanks thread!
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Jan 13, 2021 22:24
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#thanksshimano
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Jan 13, 2021 22:26
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Okay so one more dumb question. Is there a trick to getting the front derailleur properly tensioned without two people? I got the rear tensioned up well, I think. But the front is giving me fits.
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Jan 14, 2021 04:49
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Dangerllama posted:Okay so one more dumb question. Is there a trick to getting the front derailleur properly tensioned without two people? I got the rear tensioned up well, I think. But the front is giving me fits. Very amateur take here, but I think the idea is to first position the derailleur partway through its range of travel and then tighten the nut that holds the cable. When you release the derailleur, its spring will then add additional tension to the cable. Some derailleurs even come with removable plastic pieces that position them this way for initial setup. I've also seen people recommend that you stick a hex wrench or the like through the cage to hold it out by the middle chainring while snugging the cable and tightening the nut. There are also "cable puller" tools that might do away with the need for this in cases where you aren't getting enough tension otherwise.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:03
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e.pilot posted:Really dumb question, but is the battery fully charged? The FD on my R9070 sounds kinda like that when the battery is getting low. Charged up the battery, shortened the chain by 1", and running a slightly straighter chainline by being more in the middle of the cassette. Nothing crazy, I'd imagine. Didn't get any jams in many tries, but these were the worst on slomo. I thought I had a decent angle, but unfortunately didn't. Each video has one shift where the chain hesitates to latch onto the big ring. But that's way better than jamming. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1b3Lv9tih5w Here, I'm intentionally starting the shift at 0 RPM, which maybe is unrealistic, but I really never remembered any Shimano FD except maybe a triple having this much hesitation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P35LsC2Vic4 From here, should I just be opening up the outer limit some so the cage can push more? Calibrating the electronic upper limit?
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Jan 14, 2021 05:24
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marshalljim posted:Very amateur take here, but I think the idea is to first position the derailleur partway through its range of travel and then tighten the nut that holds the cable. When you release the derailleur, its spring will then add additional tension to the cable. Yeah. That’s what I did. I set the shifter to it’s least-tension setting, held the derailleur over the big ring with my hand, pulled the cable through with my free hand, and then pinned it with my “derailleur hand.” Then I screwed it in. Seems to have worked — I have the tension to where I think it’ll get sorted through the barrel adjuster — but I found myself thinking, “there has to be a better way.”
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Jan 14, 2021 05:48
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Dangerllama posted:Okay so one more dumb question. Is there a trick to getting the front derailleur properly tensioned without two people? I got the rear tensioned up well, I think. But the front is giving me fits. 2) Then pull the cable tight and clamp tight enough to hold, but not loose enough to crimp. 3) Re-adjust the low limit screw. 4) Check tension BEFORE shifting. If you can't get the low limit to back off enough, release some tension carefully. If it feels slack with the low limit correctly adjusted, re-peat 1-4 5) Fully tighten the cable clamp and check shifting.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:56
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Picture of FD from above:  by my eye, the FD is parallel to the big ring in this low position, with the outer cage 3mm inboard of the teeth. Shimano says to get the cage right over, but I couldn't do that without 1) a shitload of adjustment on the support bolt 2) lots of rub in this small-big configuration The crank seems to be installed with the spindle all the way through, correct preload, no lateral play, rings not out of true and bolted tight. Only way I could compensate is to get washers to push the rings inboard a bit? e: doh, there's no way to use spacers to push the big ring inboard kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 06:13
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Dangerllama posted:but I found myself thinking, “there has to be a better way.” New shimano stuff has fixed this fwiw. Its really simple getting enough tension, you don't need an inline adjuster and its even got marks to line up to set it.
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Jan 14, 2021 07:01
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Skarsnik posted:New shimano stuff has fixed this fwiw. Its really simple getting enough tension, you don't need an inline adjuster and its even got marks to line up to set it. And there's no crazy long stupid swingarm that requires a very specific cable entry angle and a little nubbin that will eventually break. The trim adjuster is brilliant.
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Jan 14, 2021 07:08
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Skarsnik posted:New shimano stuff has fixed this fwiw. Its really simple getting enough tension, you don't need an inline adjuster and its even got marks to line up to set it. Exactly. This is the front derail that I have been wishing for for the past 30 years. The only problem is that I now have old people eyes and can't see all of the tiny little adjustment items. The new cable for my front shifter has stretched a bit and even though it is an easy process, I am not looking forward to resetting the derail. Also, I finally learned what that 6mmx6mm little metal plate with the adhesive backing was that came with my bike last year. The bike came with a box of leftover bits and uninstalled reflectors, etc. It is a backing plate for the tension screw for the front derail. Until someone posted a pic of it yesterday, I did not know they were a thing and had been making my own.
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Jan 14, 2021 19:17
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I'm many pages behind on this thread but I just got a camelcamelcamel.com email that the Yaheetech repair stand someone recommended is on sale for $49.99.
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Jan 14, 2021 23:21
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What kind of spoke tension drop is normal to see after mounting a tire? I went from 120kgf to 90kgf DS, and 60kgf to 50kgf NDS tubed (all rough/average). Just hoping to avoid another explosion when I go tubeless again!
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Jan 15, 2021 02:02
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 When Amazon sends you a new cassette missing 2 cogs and a lot of the spacers but then refunds you and tells you to keep it, you make this crime against humanity. 75% SRAM, 25% Shimano, 100% operational.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:43
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At least you'll have good shifting a quarter of the time.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:50
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EvilJoven posted:At least you'll have good shifting a quarter of the time. It’s even going on a GRX RD for maximum mix n match fun.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:57
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Ya but it's still 2 parts from the same company. Perfect excuse to try a Box rear mech, IMO.
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Jan 15, 2021 03:18
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Man_of_Teflon posted:What kind of spoke tension drop is normal to see after mounting a tire? That sounds slightly high on the DS but not outside what I'd expect overall.
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Jan 15, 2021 05:13
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:
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Jan 15, 2021 05:14
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eSporks posted:1) Use the low limit screw to push the derailleur outboard. Thanks for this. I got the tension set to where I can shift between the big and little rings now, but bloody hell is getting the low, high, and trim set correctly some sort of black magic. Progress 
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Jan 16, 2021 01:17
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Dangerllama posted:Thanks for this. I got the tension set to where I can shift between the big and little rings now, but bloody hell is getting the low, high, and trim set correctly some sort of black magic. I’ve found that with some braze-on FD clamp geometries it’s basically impossible to get zero rub in all correctly trimmed combos. On my trainer bike with a newer style Shimano FD, I’ve settled on leaving just the tiniest bit of rub if the chain vibrates in 50x11.
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Jan 16, 2021 12:11
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Please recommend me a good tube patch kit. I have whatever came with my frame pump and they fall right off.
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Jan 17, 2021 23:36
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Rema. All the patches that I see with the cold vulcanizing solution are pretty much the same. I just like the color of the rema box.
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Jan 17, 2021 23:52
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CopperHound posted:Rema. nice, thanks
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Jan 18, 2021 01:04
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Do i need to dry my bike after washing it?
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Jan 19, 2021 01:00
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Dren posted:Do i need to dry my bike after washing it? It's not a bad idea to wipe it down, or if you have an air compressor blow everything dry. I don't bother, though, personally.
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Jan 19, 2021 01:06
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Dren posted:Do i need to dry my bike after washing it? I recommend taking the seat tube out if it's a carbon bike to let the water evaporate from inside the frame after you wash it. I was gently pressure washing (I know I know) and found that water finds it's way in and stays there.
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Jan 19, 2021 04:07
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I've been messing with my bike fit and I'd like to try a setback seatpost. I currently have an aluminum frame and seatpost, 25.4 mm diameter. If I'm not trying to get a suspension or carbon fiber seatpost for comfort is there any reason to get something more expensive than the $15-$30 ones I see on amazon?
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Jan 21, 2021 16:42
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Dren posted:I've been messing with my bike fit and I'd like to try a setback seatpost. I currently have an aluminum frame and seatpost, 25.4 mm diameter. If I'm not trying to get a suspension or carbon fiber seatpost for comfort is there any reason to get something more expensive than the $15-$30 ones I see on amazon? If you're going to get a cheap seatpost, get a kalloy/uno instead of whatever markov-generated chinese brand shows up first on amazon. If you spring for something like a ritchey, it'll have a better designed and easier to use saddle clamp, which will be forged as part of the post instead of swaged into the end of it, so there's no chance it'll work itself loose. I'd say the kalloy is fine, especially if you're not sure you're going to keep it
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Jan 21, 2021 17:21
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