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Yeah as long as the bubble of air doesn’t settle in the pump or heat sink you’re fine. AIOs ship with a small pocket of air for a reason
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Dec 23, 2020 13:42
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My first ever attempt at this. 1x Black 320mm EK Radiator (top) 1x White 320mm Corsair XR7 Radiator (bottom) 1x White Corsair XD5 reservoir/pump combo 1x White Corsair XC7 CPU water block 1x Bykski RX580 water block (lol) 19x White Barrow fittings Mayhems X1 Eco Blood Red liquid Amazing photo with the glass still on the case (which is the Phanteks knock-off version of the O11 Dynamic - has a white panel with LED strip).  There are less bubbles in the reservoir now, but they still going away slowly. Haven't got a pic of the pump outlet with drain valve, but it is there. The Corsair logo LED on the CPU block and reservoir are set to change color with temps. I'll be getting a set of cable crimps and sleeves around Christmas time so going to try my hand at replacing those awful graphics card wires with something nicer looking.
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Dec 23, 2020 16:27
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Cloner of the Elks posted:My first ever attempt at this. Holy. poo poo. Fantastic first ever attempt!
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Dec 23, 2020 17:29
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jink posted:Holy. poo poo. Thank you! The hardest tube was going from the CPU to top of reservoir. Was also a pain going from pump to the white rad at the bottom. Will have to try and get around to getting photos of that, too
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Dec 23, 2020 20:26
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Brave going hardline for your first build. Good job!
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Dec 24, 2020 01:16
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Collateral Damage posted:Brave going hardline for your first build. Good job! Yeah. This. I am a big pussy and went soft tubing. It still sucked. I can’t imagine hardline to start! That being said, I want to go hardline. It is far more resilient to decay over time and takes up less space...but I need to buy fittings again. I could have bought a used car instead of these Bitspower purchases. 😓
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Dec 24, 2020 16:30
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jink posted:Yeah. This. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Dec 24, 2020 |
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Dec 24, 2020 16:53
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Meanwhile I'm gonna see just how toasty a system can get with a 5600X + 3080 on 2x120 rads in a case known for lovely airflow! It'll be fun. And warm. And might end up with me hanging a 240 rad out the back or something equally silly.
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Dec 24, 2020 21:06
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DrDork posted:I was under the impression that air is effectively incompressible until you get it moving reasonably quick (100m/s IIRC?) You may have this impression because in fluid dynamics air is usually treated as if it's incompressible when it's a low-energy (low pressure or velocity) situation. In the context of a light airplane, for instance, the pressure gradients are quite small -- a Cessna 172 in level flight has about 0.1 psi differential between the lower and upper wing surfaces -- and the airplane's velocity through the air is low enough that pressure changes across the airframe can be considered to be instantaneous. When you approach supersonic speeds the air can't get out of its own way any more, and you do have to consider compressibility.
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Dec 27, 2020 05:12
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So I reconfigured my loop this past week, just finishing tonight, because I got a 3080 FE to swap into it. I tossed the FE in the case on air while waiting for a waterblock and segregated the loop to the processor only. Idle temps dropped to almost ambient (about 21C) and under load didn't really get above 50C. CPU is a 9900k at stock currently. Since adding the GPU back in the loop, idle temps are around 45C on the CPU and 30C on the GPU in a 19C room. Can't really figure out why; does the 3080 really add that much heat energy to a loop?! I am running two of this big bastards with a G1 distro plate for the o11 XL and included pump. My fans aren't great (LL120s) and several aren't working because my commander pro is a piece of poo poo and waiting on an RMA, but.. still. This is a wild temp swing. Anyone have any ideas? Edit so right after posting this an air bubble pushed through and idle temps on the CPU dropped to like 24-34C lol, man this poo poo is so unnecessarily stressful I am going to bed. Here have a picture for reading this dumb post. Working on custom cables tomorrow then closing back up.  .
skylined! fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Dec 30, 2020 |
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Dec 30, 2020 05:16
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skylined! posted:So I reconfigured my loop this past week, just finishing tonight, because I got a 3080 FE to swap into it. I tossed the FE in the case on air while waiting for a waterblock and segregated the loop to the processor only. Idle temps dropped to almost ambient (about 21C) and under load didn't really get above 50C. CPU is a 9900k at stock currently. Air bubbles may indicate the flow rate is a bit on the low side. Perhaps with that distribution plate, two radiators, and a couple blocks your pump is starting to bog. Although the flow rate doesn't *have* to be super fast.
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Dec 30, 2020 13:21
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Indiana_Krom posted:Air bubbles may indicate the flow rate is a bit on the low side. Perhaps with that distribution plate, two radiators, and a couple blocks your pump is starting to bog. Although the flow rate doesn't *have* to be super fast. I was thinking the same but after about two hours of running (after force-pegging the pump to 100% in bios) it seems everything is flowing much better. I also had to pick up the whole thing and rotate it a bunch to shake bubbles loose in the radiators and blocks. But yea, keeping a close eye on this pump...
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Dec 30, 2020 14:46
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skylined! posted:So I reconfigured my loop this past week, just finishing tonight, because I got a 3080 FE to swap into it. I tossed the FE in the case on air while waiting for a waterblock and segregated the loop to the processor only. Idle temps dropped to almost ambient (about 21C) and under load didn't really get above 50C. CPU is a 9900k at stock currently. Jeez. That looks fantastic. I can't comment on the temps but just wanted to say that I admire your build. The freaking 3080FE block is SO AWESOME! Small, great looks, back distro block... oh baby.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:40
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jink posted:Jeez. That looks fantastic. I can't comment on the temps but just wanted to say that I admire your build. Ya the FE blocks in general look great; I am enjoying the port placement on these blocks. I like the EK block a lot too but didn't want to wait and also pay twice as much for it (this is the bitspower block in the picture).
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Dec 30, 2020 19:46
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EK announced a 3070 block. So we'll probably see more of those. Glad to see it. Wonder if they'll also fit 3060ti cards...
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Dec 30, 2020 21:56
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skylined! posted:Ya the FE blocks in general look great; I am enjoying the port placement on these blocks. I like the EK block a lot too but didn't want to wait and also pay twice as much for it (this is the bitspower block in the picture). For real, that's killer. I was unable to find any 3080 for sale (like everyone else), and tried to get a 3070. That wasn't going well for me so I landed on a 2080ti for same price... and... IT IS A MASSIVE BEAST THAT I CANNOT EVEN FIT IN MY CASE due to the waterblock being so drat big  The 3080 block setup is so nice. I am jelly. :P
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Dec 30, 2020 23:11
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jink posted:For real, that's killer. I basically gave up until I got a notification for Best Buy from a chrome extension I forgot I installed. Because of how Best Buy handles sales (seems to be regionally) I was able to get the FE before it sold out. Bought on Tuesday and picked up Sunday! I think the extension was popcart or something.
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Dec 30, 2020 23:37
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PSA: today I hooked up my EK 3080 FE super sweet looking waterblock only to have it leak all over the place from the frame. Upon further investigation it looks like several of the bolts that hold the metal plate to the acrylic window were not tightened down sufficiently. So if you end up getting your hands on one, I highly recommend giving them all a good twist before you do anything else with it.
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Jan 18, 2021 02:33
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skylined! posted:I basically gave up until I got a notification for Best Buy from a chrome extension I forgot I installed. Because of how Best Buy handles sales (seems to be regionally) I was able to get the FE before it sold out. Bought on Tuesday and picked up Sunday! I think the extension was popcart or something. drat that is incredible. I 'settled' for a 3080 I found from a redditor with a Bitspower block preinstalled. Works great. I lust after a 3080FE but... I have a 3080 and I should just be happy.  DrDork posted:PSA: today I hooked up my EK 3080 FE super sweet looking waterblock only to have it leak all over the place from the frame. Upon further investigation it looks like several of the bolts that hold the metal plate to the acrylic window were not tightened down sufficiently. So if you end up getting your hands on one, I highly recommend giving them all a good twist before you do anything else with it. Wow. That's a terrible feeling. I've cracked Acrylic too many times and the -drip drip- sucks!
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Jan 18, 2021 04:30
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DrDork posted:PSA: today I hooked up my EK 3080 FE super sweet looking waterblock only to have it leak all over the place from the frame. Upon further investigation it looks like several of the bolts that hold the metal plate to the acrylic window were not tightened down sufficiently. So if you end up getting your hands on one, I highly recommend giving them all a good twist before you do anything else with it. You should probably contact EKWB about that. The blocks are supposed to be QC'd and leak tested. I wish the areas where fittings go wasn't acrylic on all the new rgb stuff.
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Jan 18, 2021 17:34
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SPACE HOMOS posted:You should probably contact EKWB about that. The blocks are supposed to be QC'd and leak tested. I wish the areas where fittings go wasn't acrylic on all the new rgb stuff. After further investigation I located the actual screws that keep the thing together. About half of them were loose enough I could turn them 1/2 or more of a turn by hand without much effort. So either they weren't tested prior to shipping, or the shipping between Slovenia and the US was rough enough to vibrate them out a bit (doesn't look like they had any locktite or similar on them). Broke the entire thing down and found that the main O-ring was miss-seated and pinched--not something rough shipping is likely to have caused. Reseated it and now it's working fine. Honestly, while it looks loving amazing, I'm not terribly impressed with the manufacturing quality. I'll admit this is my first aftermarket full waterblock, but I expected it to be...smoother. There are CNC marks all over the plate, including the section that contacts the die--from other watercooling products I'm used to those areas being pretty smooth, if not actually lapped (like I'd expect from a $300 premium product). The visible side is all nice and smoothed, why not smooth out the side were smoothness actually matters? The edges along the cut portions were also often rough enough to snag the cloth and cotton balls I was using to clean and prep it, moreso than I would have expected. Basically it seems like the block itself needed a polishing pass that it didn't get. Unsure if that's just how GPU waterblocks are and everyone accepts it, but between that and the obvious QA miss in terms of leakage make it seem like I got a rushed product. On the upside, now that it's installed it looks baller as hell, and it turns out that 2x120mm rads are mostly enough to handle a 3080+5600X, though they're struggling under 100% load because they're an an Evolv Shift (glass) which has the thermal characteristics of your average kitchen over, and I've got some UV light strips in there which are surprisingly hot.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:09
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This isn't how it is in general at all, but EK are not regarded as a quality brand. They farm out manufacture to China. If you're wanting the best quality blocks for your money and less interested in how speedily they're released or flashy they look, then I would recommend WaterCool and AquaComputer. I've had 8 GPU blocks from these companies over the years and never once was there a single problem with any of them. I'm sure I'll be using them next time too.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:15
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Can't say I've heard too many people say EK is a bad brand before. Not that it really matters too much--there just aren't many other options. Yeah, AquaComputer has a 3080 block in theory, you just can't buy it. Corsair has one, but it's both ugly as sin and they've had some pretty bad QA issues in the past with their waterblocks. BitsPower has one, too, but they're literally a Chinese company and even more expensive. Aaaaand that's about it.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:27
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DrDork posted:Can't say I've heard too many people say EK is a bad brand before. And Bykski is another Chinese company that rips off EK designs most of the time. I've learned to shop for the GPU based on the block I want to use.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:35
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This is the first time I've bothered with a GPU waterblock, because up until now they made absolutely no sense outside an aesthetic option: previous gens you could just get a G12 and a $75 AIO and slap that bad boy on there and be good, and be able to port that over to almost any other card. Made it a whole lot harder to defend spending $200+ on a full block cooler that is locked to that card and that card alone, even if you already have a CLC for your CPU. (though I will readily admit "I was ok spending the cash because it made it look cooler" is a perfectly valid reason for getting one) Buuuut thanks to Ampere changing the mounting pattern, that's no longer possible (at least until NZXT bothers to update it), and as said, there aren't many (any) options for 3080 blocks that aren't from EK or someone even lower on the food chain, so here we are.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:16
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DrDork posted:Broke the entire thing down and found that the main O-ring was miss-seated and pinched--not something rough shipping is likely to have caused. Reseated it and now it's working fine. Honestly, while it looks loving amazing, I'm not terribly impressed with the manufacturing quality. I'll admit this is my first aftermarket full waterblock, but I expected it to be...smoother. There are CNC marks all over the plate, including the section that contacts the die--from other watercooling products I'm used to those areas being pretty smooth, if not actually lapped (like I'd expect from a $300 premium product). O-ring problems, just like I figured. Does your block look like https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/jubf51/ek_3080_vector_block_just_came_in_today_poor/ that? Also, did it have an ek sticker on the block saying it passed qc? In that past, all ek blocks I've purchased had a sticker saying they were pressure checked or whatever. If it looks like that reddit post, I would for sure contact customer support. Sadly, ek is cashing in on their large brand recognition with insane prices and poor quality these days.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:22
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Canna Happy posted:O-ring problems, just like I figured. Does your block look like https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/jubf51/ek_3080_vector_block_just_came_in_today_poor/ that? Also, did it have an ek sticker on the block saying it passed qc? In that past, all ek blocks I've purchased had a sticker saying they were pressure checked or whatever. If it looks like that reddit post, I would for sure contact customer support. Sadly, ek is cashing in on their large brand recognition with insane prices and poor quality these days. Not quite that bad everywhere--if you look at the depressed areas with the more uniform machining marks, it looks more like that, rather than the die area there which looks like it got shot-peened or something. I could understand it on the VRM/VRAM lands because you're just using thermal pads there, so having it be perfectly smooth isn't terribly important, but you'd think they'd give the die portion a quick lap at least. The actual performance seems fine, though--at 100% load it's keeping the die at 75C and the VRAM cool enough that there's no throttling like on the stock HSF (which would hit 91C and VRAM throttle, depending on which part was being stressed). It'd probably run cooler than that if I wasn't putting a 5600X into the loop as well and then trying to cool it all with 2x120mm rads in a terrible airflow case. I couldn't find any sticker of any kind on the block, FWIW. e; since it's a high-demand, back-ordered part, I could see someone at EK deciding to just ship them direct instead of receiving them, testing them, repacking them, etc., to get them in people's hands sooner, with the assumption that only a small percentage would have issues in the first place so it'd be better for 95% of their customers. Obnoxious to be one of the 5%, though! e2; doing some fan tuning also has revealed that the Arctic P14 I have as the downward facing exhaust rattles like hell when pushed above 90%. So that's annoying; I might have to see about either slightly sanding down whichever of the fins is causing it, or see if I have a spare 140mm Noctura hanging out in my closet somewhere. DrDork fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 23:59
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To EK's credit, they got back to my ticket the next business day, were very apologetic, and have offered to send me a replacement o-ring and a bottle of replacement coolant to make up for what I used diagnosing the issue (or a RMA, if I was cool dealing without a system for weeks). Obviously still annoying the issue existed in the first place, but at least they didn't try to argue with me or insist I must have hosed it up myself or something.
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Jan 22, 2021 17:27
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Jesus christ lining the inside of my tower with black acrylic might have been a bad idea. What's a good anti static wipe that actually repels dust, but doesn't use alcohol? All I can find on amazon are essentially normal wet wipes.
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Jan 24, 2021 19:17
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Ak Gara posted:Jesus christ lining the inside of my tower with black acrylic might have been a bad idea. What's a good anti static wipe that actually repels dust, but doesn't use alcohol? All I can find on amazon are essentially normal wet wipes. Clearcoat it with a matte or gloss lacquer and just use normal anti-static wipes.
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Jan 24, 2021 20:02
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I think I'm gonna have to do something, even when it's all finished it's going to be a dust magnet. Finally got around to putting in the motherboard, M.2 drives, RAM, CPU, and CPU block. One of the two reservoirs too. Still figuring out the tube pathing. I'm thinking from left reservoir to GPU, to left lower radiator, then straight up to top radiator, to CPU, from CPU to right hand side reservoir. Or I might do dual loop, or a figure 8. Options!   
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Jan 24, 2021 22:42
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Just don't be stupid and do what I did, which was not think about things and end up going Res -> Rad -> Rad -> GPU -> CPU -> Res. Turns out if you do that, the GPU stays reasonably cool, but the CPU freaks the gently caress out because you're feeding it like 75C water. Whoops.  Switching CPU and GPU ordering there bumped my GPU temp by 1-2C under full load, and dropped my CPU temp by like 10-15C. Now the system doesn't feel like it always needs to run the fans on high!
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Jan 25, 2021 00:09
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You should not be seeing wild water temp differences like that. Lots of testing says the water should be within 1-2c difference anywhere in the loop. How slow is your pump running? You should also be running the fans based on a water temp sensor.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:33
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DrDork posted:Just don't be stupid and do what I did, which was not think about things and end up going Res -> Rad -> Rad -> GPU -> CPU -> Res. Turns out if you do that, the GPU stays reasonably cool, but the CPU freaks the gently caress out because you're feeding it like 75C water. Whoops. That is highly unlikely unless your pump was impossibly slow or just stalled out completely. Loop order should be entirely irrelevant assuming your pump is operating normally because if your pump is anything like mine it circulates the entire volume of coolant in seconds at most. The temperature across the whole loop should be within fractions of a degree at any point you measure it. In fact it should take real effort and carefully calibrated tools to even be able to measure the temperature differences in the coolant between inlet and exit points of blocks/radiators/etc. (The D5 pump I have is rated for 1500l/hr flow rate, assume its only managing half that after restrictions so 750l/hr, well the entire fluid volume of my loop is about 850 ml, so 3600 seconds divided by 750l multiplied by .85l volume equals 4.08 seconds to circulate the entire loop.) I don't think even accidentally plumbing a block backwards would have that kind of impact (performance will be worse is the flow is reversed through a jet plate, but not *that* much worse). Perhaps what happened is you had bad contact/paste on your CPU heat spreader and when you redid everything in the different order it got tightened up and the paste started working properly. In order to raise the temperature of water to 75C in the space of just one water block, it would have to be hundreds of degrees.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:38
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ilkhan posted:You should not be seeing wild water temp differences like that. Lots of testing says the water should be within 1-2c difference anywhere in the loop. How slow is your pump running? You should also be running the fans based on a water temp sensor. Well I'm not really running a "recommended" loop here in the first place: I've got a 3080 + 5600X cooled by just a pair of 120mm rads. The pump is this Chinese special integrated CPU waterblock / pump / "res" deal, and runs at ~4000RPM constantly since apparently putting in a variable speed pump was within their budget, but allowing that pump speed to be controlled intelligently was not, so instead they just have a rheostat on a pair of wires to control the speed. And if that wasn't bad enough, I shoved it all in a Evolv shift. Yes, the type with the glass panels. Oh, and I don't have a water-temp sensor, but in retrospect that might not be the worst thing given the temp differentials. So, yeah. Not a whole lot of rad space, hilariously poor case airflow, a "res" that's like...10ml? There's basically no spare fluid beyond what's in the tubes/blocks/rads. Frankly I'm kinda surprised this thing works at all. It's a monument to "you were so preoccupied with whether you could, you didn't stop to think if you should." (but it looks baller and it works so gently caress it) Doing it this way means that the water gets pretty hot, which means that those rads actually do a lot of good work, because the higher the delta between your water and ambient, the more heat they can dump out. So I'd bet that the delta-T of the water before vs after the two rads is considerably higher than what it is in a more properly specced setup. The rads are non-directional, FWIW, as is the GPU block, so there was no opportunity to screw that up. The only thing that's directional at all is the pump, naturally. But no joke, I've been running a buttcoin miner to help test the thermal abilities of this thing (because I can control how much GPU wattage it's using, anywhere between 200-320W, and because I can run it for long enough to heat-soak everything fully while still dicking around doing other stuff), and going GPU -> CPU had that poor Zen3 around 80-85 sustained, and 90C+ if it actually needed to clock up and do anything CPU-wise. Now that it's CPU -> GPU it's closer to 70C sustained, with no other changes--no need to remove the block from the CPU, since all I needed to do was swap the input and output feeds, which had enough slack in the lines already that nothing needed to be removed/replaced, just unplugged from one and moved over about 3cm. I'm sure 75C water was an exaggeration. It's probably closer to 55C, since the GPU loads at 65C and the CPU at 75C. But yes, shoving 300W of heat output immediately before the CPU was very definitely causing higher CPU temps. If you run a more "sane" configuration where the water never heats up all that much in the first place, it probably doesn't make all that much of a difference. But with this thing, there absolutely are hotter/colder portions of the loop. DrDork fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 02:22
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DrDork posted:Well I'm not really running a "recommended" loop here in the first place: I've got a 3080 + 5600X cooled by just a pair of 120mm rads. The pump is this Chinese special integrated CPU waterblock / pump / "res" deal, and runs at ~4000RPM constantly since apparently putting in a variable speed pump was within their budget, but allowing that pump speed to be controlled intelligently was not, so instead they just have a rheostat on a pair of wires to control the speed. And if that wasn't bad enough, I shoved it all in a Evolv shift. Yes, the type with the glass panels. Oh, and I don't have a water-temp sensor, but in retrospect that might not be the worst thing given the temp differentials. Yeah, none of these numbers make sense to me. Are you actually running a coolant temperature sensor, or are you reading core temps out of HWinfo? edit: except the part about you running a 3080 and 5600x on 240mm of radiator volume. I'm not surprised at all about high temperatures in general.
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Jan 25, 2021 02:46
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As noted, I don't have a coolant thermometer. The GPU temp I'm getting from Afterburner and the CPU temp from Ryzen Master. Those are, as far as things go, pretty authoritative sources for what those bits of hardware are running at. Even if the absolute numbers are somehow off, the fact that they changed after swapping the tubes to re-order things (while doing literally nothing else) remains valid. Water temp I'm guessing at judging by how hot it still was ~10 min after turning it off so I could rearrange the tubes, at which point I'd ballpark it at 45C or so. Considering no pumps were running during that time, an operating load temp in the low 50C range seems perfectly reasonable.
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Jan 25, 2021 02:55
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DrDork posted:As noted, I don't have a coolant thermometer. The GPU temp I'm getting from Afterburner and the CPU temp from Ryzen Master. Those are, as far as things go, pretty authoritative sources for what those bits of hardware are running at. Even if the absolute numbers are somehow off, the fact that they changed after swapping the tubes to re-order things (while doing literally nothing else) remains valid. Do me a favor and do an OCCT power virus test on the CPU, GPU and CPU+GPU with your fans maxed at 100%, for 20 minutes each (or until TJmax is reached) with the max temps for CPU and GPU in each test recorded. Something still seems screwy here.
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Jan 25, 2021 03:21
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Warmachine posted:Yeah, none of these numbers make sense to me. Are you actually running a coolant temperature sensor, or are you reading core temps out of HWinfo? Also a quick and dirty way to guess the coolant temp is to heat it up with a full stress load, then switch to the lowest power idle you can get. Wait 10-15 seconds, whatever temperature the no load components settle on is probably about 2-3C over whatever the coolant temperature is. The coolant will always be colder than whatever is the coldest chip in the loop. So if your GPU is before the CPU in the loop and you run furmark on it with no load on the CPU, and the CPU idles at 31C, then your coolant coming out of the GPU is guaranteed less than 31C. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 03:24
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Indiana_Krom posted:I read it that way the first time too, but he said it is a pair of 240MM radiators not a single one. Can't really say if it is not doing well or not because I don't have a 3080 to compare with. Nope, I have a pair of 120mm rads. Specifically 120mm x 28mm, so they're on the thin side (otherwise only one fits). Behold my house of poor choices! As far as "doing well," keeping a 320W GPU under 70C in a lovely case is already asking a fair amount from 240mm worth of rads. Throwing another 50-75W of CPU in there with a X570 chipset and some lights belching excess heat (why the hell are the UV lights that hot?) and I'm actually very pleasantly surprised. I'll run the tests here in a few and get back to you two, but I'm not sure what you're looking for out of them: I'm pumping 300-400W of heat into a system with no effective res in a case well known for lovely airflow, and while 2x120 rads are keeping things below thermal limiting break points, they're obviously undersized for the task at hand (at least in the sense that everyone going into watercooling seems to obsess over keeping temps ultra low--this setup actually ends up being considerably quieter and cooler than the air setup beforehand, and they're no longer thermally limited, so in that sense the rads could be argued to be viably, if not optimally, sized for this).
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Jan 25, 2021 03:41
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