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drat I'm old. Yes, It's a phone cable. Probably found in clearance bins in the back of walmarts from 30 years ago at this point.
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# ? Jan 25, 2021 19:49 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:35 |
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I run a widnows/ubuntu dual bolt on an asus z490 board, and i’m wondering if there is an easier way to boot into either drive. restarting then entering bios to access the boot menu seems inefficient. Can i assign a specific key that i can hit when booting up to launch into a specific drive? e.g hit “u” to boot the ubuntu drive.
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 01:45 |
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Head Bee Guy posted:I run a widnows/ubuntu dual bolt on an asus z490 board, and i’m wondering if there is an easier way to boot into either drive. restarting then entering bios to access the boot menu seems inefficient. Can i assign a specific key that i can hit when booting up to launch into a specific drive? e.g hit “u” to boot the ubuntu drive. Have it boot into grub?
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 02:06 |
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I managed to get my hands on a new 3080 GPU, woo! But now I've spent my entire day worrying about my power supply. I have this: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/txm-series-2017-config/p/CP-9020130-NA Right now I run a 1080Ti which is connected to the top PCI-E port with a daisy chain to provide an 8pin and 6pin connection (with a dangling +2). What I'll need for the 3080 is 3x8pin, which I understand is OK to run from 1 daisy chain (2x6+2) and another 6+2 from another PCIE. But, the labeling on the PSU confused me. The PCI-E and the "4x4 CPU" look identical. I assume this is what 'semi modular' means, but I'm a hardware moron and I'm worried that that bottom 8pin port is somehow different even though the pin 'shapes' look identical. Are the top and bottom 8-pin ports the same? I both read and had a friend tell me that the difference between CPU and PCIE was the pin-out, and as long as I use the correct cable, this is OK and that using that port is fine, but now I'm paranoid over $900 of hardware that isn't easy to get in the first place.
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 02:15 |
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Some Goon posted:Have it boot into grub? Didn’t know about that. Thanks for the help!
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 02:17 |
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Anime Store Adventure posted:I managed to get my hands on a new 3080 GPU, woo! But now I've spent my entire day worrying about my power supply. I have this: Semi-modular just means the 24pin is hardwired while the rest is detachable. The cpu port is not a PCIe port, don't use it as such. Use two, or ideally three pcie ports. You also need the cpu port to power your cpu so it's not like it should be available. E: that's some odd labeling. Im guessing the wires are labeled in this case and will provide the correct pinout at the receiving end. EE: ok, it has a hardwired cpu cable. Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jan 27, 2021 |
# ? Jan 27, 2021 02:54 |
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Some Goon posted:Semi-modular just means the 24pin is hardwired while the rest is detachable. The cpu port is not a PCIe port, don't use it as such. Use two, or ideally three pcie ports. You also need the cpu port to power your cpu so it's not like it should be available. So, the CPU is powered by cabling that comes out of a sleeve from the PSU itself. That port in the power supply isn't used. Is the bottom 8-pin port a CPU port? There are no other PCIe cables from the 'sleeve' out of the PSU. Some Goon posted:E: that's some odd labeling. Im guessing the wires are labeled in this case and will provide the correct pinout at the receiving end. I'm glad its not just me.
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 02:58 |
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Anime Store Adventure posted:So, the CPU is powered by cabling that comes out of a sleeve from the PSU itself. That port in the power supply isn't used. Is the bottom 8-pin port a CPU port? There are no other PCIe cables from the 'sleeve' out of the PSU. Looking over reviews they both should be fine for PCIe. I don't but wonder if they're using the same case for a different model with multiple cpu cables or somesuch.
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 03:07 |
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Prior to COVID, I was working from home 3 days per week. I kept my work laptop at the office and I would use my home computer (desktop PC) to connect to the VPN and remote into my laptop in the office. I have two monitors on my desktop and I like my setup. My laptop in the office began to have problems so they shipped a new laptop to my house, along with a dock, cables, a keyboard, and mouse. Unfortunately I cannot simply continue to connect via VPN to this new laptop because they have to physically be in the office for that to work (connected to LAN I believe). My setup now consists of: Work laptop connected to a dock, which is connected to one of my monitors, with its own keyboard and mouse. Home desktop PC connected to my other monitor, with its own keyboard and mouse. So I have two keyboards and two mice on my desk. I keep my personal keyboard shoved awkwardly in a corner of my desk when not in use but I find myself accessing it frequently (mainly web browsing and Spotify). I also still need our desktop accessible for certain files and applications so I can't just disconnect it and rely on my phone for web browsing and Spotify. I would like to take advantage of my dual screens for work, but with my current setup, the only way I can see that happening is to get a third monitor, dedicating one to my personal computer (which would still require accessing my personal computer separately). I also don't have the real estate for a third monitor. Is there a smarter way I can be doing this? I was thinking to when I was a kid in the 80s, and we had a little switch on the back of our TV to swap between the Atari and the antenna on the TV to watch shows. Does anything like that exist that would allow me to have a single keyboard to use with both computers, switching conveniently as needed?
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 16:38 |
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me your dad posted:Does anything like that exist that would allow me to have a single keyboard to use with both computers, switching conveniently as needed? Yes, Synergy for example https://symless.com/synergy. I've also used Multiplicity https://www.stardock.com/products/multiplicity/, which I seem to recall working better than Synergy back in the days where I was multi-boxing WoW for a short time, but that was so long ago that it's meaningless now Good thing about software like that, is that you can seamlessly move between machines with your mouse like you were just using multiple monitors, and the keyboard input then follows Edit: you can of course use a good ol' fashioned KVM, but I honestly think you'd get a way better experience with a software solution, especially as you specifically don't need monitor switching HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jan 28, 2021 |
# ? Jan 28, 2021 16:42 |
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I believe what you're looking for is called Keyboard Video Monitor (KVM) Switch. I think they've gotten a lot better over the years, but I don't know reputable brands or anything. Maybe some other goons can chime in?
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 16:42 |
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Keyboards like Logitech G915 also support multiple devices (Bluetooth and a USB receiver) if hitting a button to switch is more your speed.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 16:43 |
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Thank you all - I will look into these solutions.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 17:05 |
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HalloKitty posted:Yes, Synergy for example https://symless.com/synergy. I use a software solution like this and it’s absolutely amazing.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 19:17 |
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me your dad posted:Is there a smarter way I can be doing this? I was thinking to when I was a kid in the 80s, and we had a little switch on the back of our TV to swap between the Atari and the antenna on the TV to watch shows. Does anything like that exist that would allow me to have a single keyboard to use with both computers, switching conveniently as needed? Well most monitors have several inputs that you can switch using the monitor buttons, or even software like ControlMyMonitor. Some even have USB hub that can be switched at the same time, but that's a pretty rare feature. KVM as mentioned can at least handle mouse and keyboard, maybe one or two monitors depending on how you have them connected. There are quite a lot of different options. I have mouse and keyboard connected to a hub that I switch between my home and work computer. I also have a second mouse connected directly to my home computer to provide minimal control with needing to tinker with cables. I also have small wireless keyboard laying on the side if I need to type something on the home computer during work day. I also have a third monitor above my main monitor connected to the home computer. This might solve your real estate problems.
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# ? Jan 29, 2021 00:58 |
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I'm looking for a dock/KVM of sorts. I'm working from home like most. I have a nice 4K display, a good audio DAC, keyboard, mouse and high end webcam. The thing is my work laptop has none of that, and using RDP from my desktop to my laptop isn't ideal (WiFi has problems coping with RDP at 4K). So I'm looking for a hub/dock/KVM of sorts. I'd like to be able to connect my screen as well as up to 5 USB devices to that dock and be able to switch which computer uses them - my desktop or my laptop. The closest I could find was this but it seems pricey. Does anybody know of a good KVM that could work for my use case? E: Well, I settled for this. Be careful when choosing, some of them say "4K" but actually cap at 2560x1600 Furism fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Jan 29, 2021 |
# ? Jan 29, 2021 11:10 |
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I have my computer connected to the network via LAN cable I have my phone connected to the network via wifi (obviously) And then I use a USB-c to USB female port adapter dongle on my phone, and then I run a micro-USB cable from that port to a PS4 controller (because I'm too dumb to understand how to connect the PS4 controller to my phone via bluetooth) And then I run Steam Link to play games on my phone, streamed from my computer, using the controller There's some significant input lag that's high to make games unpleasant to control. Is there anything I can do to improve this besides learning the bluetooth link? It doesn't seem like it should be a bandwidth issue since I'd still be on way more Mbps than I'd need over the local network, right?
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# ? Jan 29, 2021 19:14 |
me your dad posted:Prior to COVID, I was working from home 3 days per week. I kept my work laptop at the office and I would use my home computer (desktop PC) to connect to the VPN and remote into my laptop in the office. I have two monitors on my desktop and I like my setup. You could just use a VNC app like Jump or Microsoft RDP to get into your laptop on your home network, preventing all that complexity with KVMs and stuff. Should be the same as your vpn setup, just a little faster.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 06:30 |
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The significant other has about 150gb of photos and music they'd like to back up. What manufacturers/models of external HDDs/SSDs are most reliable these days? I would also consider online backup services if the price was right. It would have to be pretty good though as the backups aren't going to be accessed often and her work already has a solution for storing documents.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 16:50 |
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Fruits of the sea posted:The significant other has about 150gb of photos and music they'd like to back up. What manufacturers/models of external HDDs/SSDs are most reliable these days? 150gb? You can store that on a $20 usb flash drive that would be pretty reliable.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 17:54 |
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Cyks posted:150gb? You can store that on a $20 usb flash drive that would be pretty reliable. Flash drives? Reliable? Maybe about 5 complete copies on 5 separate flash drives (endurance rated MicroSD cards would probably be better). And not a terrible idea to refresh the data once every couple years.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 19:07 |
Fruits of the sea posted:The significant other has about 150gb of photos and music they'd like to back up. What manufacturers/models of external HDDs/SSDs are most reliable these days? What device are the photos and music currently on? If a computer, just grab any 1tb Seagate or WD HDD and Arq backup to Backblaze B2, which will cost you $1/month for 200gb. That'll give you an onsite backup to an external drive and offsite to a cloud server. In this case, I wouldn't even buy an external drive but just expand the storage in the computer so that it can contain these files normally, then back them up to Backblaze every week or so. If an Android phone, just use Google backup and sync and pay $4/month for 200gb. If an iPhone, get 200gb iCloud space for $3/month. I don't know your significant other, so maybe this is off-base, but the only backups that work for most people I know are the ones that are automatic, regular, and usually stored on devices that can't be broken/lost/forgotten somehow. So cloud backups of some kind. tuyop fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 23:08 |
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tuyop posted:What device are the photos and music currently on? Thanks! That's actually a pretty good price for cloud storage. The device is a 7 year old macbook so an internal drive isn't an option.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 23:26 |
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Fruits of the sea posted:Thanks! That's actually a pretty good price for cloud storage. If you have Amazon prime they have a photo backup solution that’s part of your subscription already. It’s limited on videos though.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 00:28 |
So, I have a lot of random burned DVDs and CDs I've made and accumulated over the years. What's the best way to at least catalog their contents? I want to pop them in, have a script dump the directory listing into a CSV, and maybe a light error checking to see if I need to discard it. The thing I don't want to move disks back and forth to one drive as that will take forever. I have a bunch of random external drives I could plug in and use. Is there any reason this would not work? Is there a gadget I could buy for under say 100 bucks to make this easier? Would using Linux over Windows 10 for this be more efficient?
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 18:51 |
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Edit: oops, this is the hardware thread not software. Sorry!
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 19:07 |
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I'm upgrading by i5 6600k PC to an AMD ryzen 5600 and asus motherboard. I have a windows install on my USB drive but I also need to flash the bios on my Asus ROG-Strix B550-F wi-fi gaming. Can I have the bios for the motherboard on the same USB drive as my windows install and it won't gently caress anything up?
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:12 |
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Pikey posted:I'm upgrading by i5 6600k PC to an AMD ryzen 5600 and asus motherboard. I have a windows install on my USB drive but I also need to flash the bios on my Asus ROG-Strix B550-F wi-fi gaming. Can I have the bios for the motherboard on the same USB drive as my windows install and it won't gently caress anything up? Technically speaking as long as it's the only thing with that file extension in the proper location (not in some folder tree probably) it shouldn't be a problem but if you have any other USB key I'd just do two keys.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:38 |
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I have a question about corsair's 24 pin psu cable. The pin out from the PSU (hx850i) isn't 1 to 1. (wire A to wire A, B to B etc) it crosses over it's self so how would a cable from Cablemod work? Would it have that flat look or would the Cablemod cable also be crossed with it's self?
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# ? Feb 2, 2021 23:14 |
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I have the 2015 new 3DS XL. Does anyone know where the wifi card is located? Google only shows me the original model
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 02:31 |
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Narzack posted:I have the 2015 new 3DS XL. Does anyone know where the wifi card is located? Google only shows me the original model Next to the cartridge slot. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+3DS+XL+Motherboard+Replacement/25399
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 02:36 |
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That's the old model, I have the new3DS, mine doesn't look like that one. My battery is on the left side and the cartridge slot is on the bottom of the unit.
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 02:39 |
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Narzack posted:That's the old model, I have the new3DS, mine doesn't look like that one. My battery is on the left side and the cartridge slot is on the bottom of the unit. Whoops. Looks like the WiFi is integrated onto the motherboard, as best I can make out these pictures on a phone. https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nintendo+3DS+XL+2015+Teardown/36346
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 02:45 |
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Oh, I see. It's underneath the first board. I'm not too jazzed to open take off the first board, but I guess when needs must. EDIT: It was actually on the underside of the board. Narzack fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Feb 3, 2021 |
# ? Feb 3, 2021 03:27 |
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I need 3 molex connectors to power my 3 D-RGB controllers (each one draws 8 amps) so it can't be a molex chain, but 3 individual 6 pin peripheral > molex cables but the only ones I can find are the long chains. I don't have much space to work with and would rather not have 3 molex chains all squashed in a tight space. One option I might have found is buying custom cables from CableMod, and selecting single molex, custom length. I'm concerned though that as it's a whole cable and not an extension, there might be psu pin layout compatibility issues. Apparently there's not a standardized psu pin layout?? The CableMod config website does ask what PSU I'm using so many it'll be okay?
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 18:13 |
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If I disassemble my computer, do I need to put back the hard drives to the exact same SATA ports they were using before when I put it all back together?
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 18:22 |
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Ak Gara posted:I need 3 molex connectors to power my 3 D-RGB controllers (each one draws 8 amps) so it can't be a molex chain, but 3 individual 6 pin peripheral > molex cables but the only ones I can find are the long chains. I don't have much space to work with and would rather not have 3 molex chains all squashed in a tight space. That's correct, there is no PSU-side industry standard pinout. There's a real risk of component damage/fire if you use a cable that was not specifically designed for your make and model of PSU. CableMod asks for your PSU so that they can configure the wires correctly, so it will be ok. If you're able to find the pinout of your specific model of PSU, you can perform a continuity test on the cable to verify that they were built with your PSU in mind. gradenko_2000 posted:If I disassemble my computer, do I need to put back the hard drives to the exact same SATA ports they were using before when I put it all back together? No. Depending on your motherboard you might have to rearrange the boot priority in BIOS/UEFI, though. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 3, 2021 |
# ? Feb 3, 2021 18:32 |
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Looking to upgrade from ancient PC to a decent gaming system. I understand building my own is an option but I don’t know the first thing about that. Doesn’t need to be top of the line but pretty good, and would like to be able to upgrade parts in a few years. Was browsing Costco and this had good reviews, would it be a decent option? https://www.costco.com/ibuypower-co....100688331.html
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# ? Feb 4, 2021 05:47 |
Six amps for RGB? What are they, spotlights??
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# ? Feb 4, 2021 06:47 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:35 |
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Hyrax Attack! posted:Looking to upgrade from ancient PC to a decent gaming system. I understand building my own is an option but I don’t know the first thing about that. Honestly I’d wait till you can find something with a 30 series card in it. That’s not the worst deal or anything but the newer cards are significantly better.
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# ? Feb 4, 2021 08:24 |