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Today I used my tools to improve my tools. A few really simple upgrades to my welding table I've been meaning to do for a while now and it was a good test case for experimenting with the pulse spray on the new welder. First I stole someone's idea and added a swing out drawer to de-clutter the surface of the table. Built from some offcuts from a desk I made recently.  Then I stole a friend's idea and welded on a hitch for slotting in other tools like my tube notcher and a vise. It's really easy for me to buy this telescoping tubing and just put the male end on a variety of tools and weld these large female ends to various locations so they can be placed where needed. Has a welded nut and bolt to clamp it in.  And finally added an expanded metal sheet base to the base of the table to store a few more larger tools like the chop saw which usually takes up valuable real estate.  My next tool purchase is something I've been eyeing for a while, a magdrill. I'm looking at the evolution mag drills because I love the chop saw they do and the price seems reasonable. Are there any strong opinions on magdrills here? Some of them seem really expensive, so what sort of specs should I look out for?
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Jan 31, 2021 07:44
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Would you buy this for $20?
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Feb 1, 2021 11:28
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Not a bad price. I paid around the same for mine in the same condition. I just use two c clamps and a piece of scrap wood as a fence and keep my red cross blood type card in my wallet and 911 on speed dial. It works... I rarely use a table saw so I wasn't looking to spend much.
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Feb 1, 2021 11:55
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It works. That's about as far as I'd go. I had one like that for about 20 years and thought it was fine, it did what I wanted it to. But last year I bought a DeWalt DWE7480 and it makes the Craftsman seem like a toy. I gave the Craftsman away and haven't looked back. It all depends on what you'll use it for and how much you'll use it. If you get it, buy a Freud blade at Home Depot and you'll probably get 75% of a new saw's capacity for 10% of the price, which isn't too bad!
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Feb 1, 2021 12:50
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EVERYWHERE 
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I mean I'm just really jealous of all those neat table saw jigs. Honestly I need a router table setup; my compact Makita is great but my undermount hack job doesn't allow me to install bits in place, and I can't get my lock miter bit to fit through the fixed base hole from the underside, and I REALLY want to use that lock miter bit. It seems dangerous to try and use some kind of modified edge guide with a large bit like that, but an idea that I had to make a set of fixed base/jigs to saddle the edge and end of a board and cut the miters at the right setup depth. I don't think a regular edge guide would work, because that bit cannot recess lower than the router base.  I have illustrated how the jigs could work. I think I'm being dumb but I can't think of another way. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 13:31
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Is the ryobi 18v planer good enough or garbage at $100 with a battery?
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Feb 2, 2021 23:58
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You won't do fine cabinetry with it but it'll take the bottom off a door like a good'un.
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Feb 3, 2021 08:21
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I need to drill and tap a hole in a cast iron manifold to 1/4" npt. What brand of tap should I look for? Home depot and Lowe's offer a kit with a drill bit and a tap, good enough?
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Feb 4, 2021 15:31
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heyou posted:I need to drill and tap a hole in a cast iron manifold to 1/4" npt. What brand of tap should I look for? Home depot and Lowe's offer a kit with a drill bit and a tap, good enough? Cast iron is softer then regular steel so anything then cut steel will cut cast iron.
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Feb 4, 2021 15:57
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Cast iron is one of the few metals that machinists consider self-lubricating. A standard drill and tap will work just fine.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:17
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heyou posted:I need to drill and tap a hole in a cast iron manifold to 1/4" npt. What brand of tap should I look for? Home depot and Lowe's offer a kit with a drill bit and a tap, good enough? Double check what you're getting at the big box stores. The ones around here only carry SAE and Metric taps in-store, not NPT.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:19
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Also be aware that no part of a 1/4 NPT will measure out to a 1/4". Not OD, not minor diameter. True of all NPT. For example a pipe that has 1/4 NPT threads on it will have an OD of around 1/2". Pipe threads are stupid and I hate them. Side note (probably just being pedantic), since pipe thread spec is so screwy, "1/4" NPT" isn't a thing, it's just 1/4 NPT, 1/2, 3/4, whatever.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:36
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boxen posted:Also be aware that no part of a 1/4 NPT will measure out to a 1/4". Not OD, not minor diameter. True of all NPT. For example a pipe that has 1/4 NPT threads on it will have an OD of around 1/2". What? Yes it is a thing, 1/4" NPT is the dimensions for threads for a 1/4" nominal pipe and "ANSI B1.20.1 Pipe Threads, General Purpose, Inch" lists the pipe sizes as such.
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Feb 4, 2021 19:46
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X-posting from the hobby forum tool thread, looking for file/rasp recs:eighty-four merc posted:Does anyone have a quick and dirty tier list for machinist files and wood rasps, far as brands go? Thanks yall
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Feb 4, 2021 21:17
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Elviscat posted:What? Yes it is a thing, 1/4" NPT is the dimensions for threads for a 1/4" nominal pipe and "ANSI B1.20.1 Pipe Threads, General Purpose, Inch" lists the pipe sizes as such. I think the fact that boxen is missing is that 1/4" nominal pipe is 1/4" ID. If you buy at 1/4 NPT tap to tap a 1/4 NPT hole, it's necessarily going to be larger than 1/4" in diameter because the threaded pipe that's going to screw into it has a minor diameter > 1/4".
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Feb 4, 2021 21:20
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eighty-four merc posted:X-posting from the hobby forum tool thread, looking for file/rasp recs: I've always preferred Pferd.
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Feb 4, 2021 21:23
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Elviscat posted:What? Yes it is a thing, 1/4" NPT is the dimensions for threads for a 1/4" nominal pipe and "ANSI B1.20.1 Pipe Threads, General Purpose, Inch" lists the pipe sizes as such. True, but the nominal was the inside diameter of the pipe originally used and the outside diameter is the important one for fitment, and then metallurgy got better and pipes have much larger ID than the original spec but the same outside diameter and threads, so now nothing loving matches the trade size and it's all bullshit and I hate it. (Up to like around 3in or so, where the size starts being logical again.)
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Feb 4, 2021 21:28
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kastein posted:now nothing loving matches the trade size and it's all bullshit and I hate it 1/4" nominal SCH40 pipe has an ID of .364". SCH80 is around .300" I think. Edit the second so I'm not just replying to myself: From what I can see of ASME B1.20.1-2013 from a random google search from https://esh-docdb.fnal.gov/cgi-bin/RetrieveFile?docid=3072&filename=Pages%20from%20B1-20-1_2013.pdf&version=6 if that link even works, this is what I was talking about, there's no quote marks ( " ) after the fraction: 1.3 Thread Designations 1.3.1The types of pipe threads included in this Standard are designated by specifying in sequence the nominal pipe size, number of threads per inch, and the thread series symbol as follows: 1⁄8–27 NPT 1⁄8–27 NPSC 1⁄2–14 NPTR 1⁄8–27 NPSM 1⁄8–27 NPSL Decimal equivalent notation may be substituted forfractional pipe sizes. For example 0.125–27 NPT For left-hand threads, add “LH” to the designation.For example1⁄8–27 NPT–LHDesignations without “LH” will signify right-hand threads. edit 3: God I hate pipe threads. All this poo poo and it's STILL a pain in the rear end to get them to seal. Just let me use straight threads with loving o ring somewhere. boxen fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 21:45
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kastein posted:True, but the nominal was the inside diameter of the pipe originally used and the outside diameter is the important one for fitment, and then metallurgy got better and pipes have much larger ID than the original spec but the same outside diameter and threads, so now nothing loving matches the trade size and it's all bullshit and I hate it. I mostly deal with schedule 120 pipes, so none of those dimensions make sense anymore, because they're still based compatibility with pipes with outside diameters of pipes that have a "true" interior size at sch40, of course at the pressures a sch120 Inconel, or even carbon steel pipe is working at using NPT connections goes right out the window and it's all welded. I always hated that you can buy sch80 electrical conduit for impact protection, but it's much harder to get sch80 couplings. For extra fun, conduit sizes and threads are based on NPT sizes, so that black iron gas pipe could have wires pulled through, to convert gas lights to electric, but they're straight, they have no taper (National Pipe Straight Mechanical) the two threads are compatible though. E: I love pipe threads and Imperial pipe sizing 
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Feb 4, 2021 23:31
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Whats the deal with Schedule WRT pipes and poo poo? I typically use Schedule 40 pvc pipe of varying sizes for installing wells but I have no idea what the schedule part is all about.
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Feb 5, 2021 00:44
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wesleywillis posted:Whats the deal with Schedule WRT pipes and poo poo? Short version is that it has to do with the pressure rating of the pipe, Sch40 is for lower pressure than SCH80. It's not as simple as a wall thickness like tubing is, because a 4" pipe with a 1/8" wall will have a much different pressure rating than a 1/2" pipe with an 1/8" wall will if they're made of the same material.
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Feb 5, 2021 00:53
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The most "fun" I've had with hydraulics was finding adapters to hook up European and American components together. Take two nonsensical systems that are incompatible and find the one adapter that will join the two for under $200.
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Feb 5, 2021 01:02
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I had to get an old Scottish man to spin me up a fitting to adapt whatever metric standard they used to 37⁰ flare for some high pressure nitrogen one time.
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Feb 5, 2021 01:33
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Toolbox https://twitter.com/WWBCHANK/status/1358335292646715394?s=20
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Feb 7, 2021 20:58
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Feb 8, 2021 00:09
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Did a bit of tube notching this weekend. I'm disappointed that this new 1.5" holesaw barely managed a day and a half. On the other hand I'm impressed I didn't actually notice a difference for an hour. I'll probably keep using it until it snags and breaks my wrist.
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Feb 8, 2021 07:56
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tuna posted:Did a bit of tube notching this weekend. I don't think I've had a good hole with a hole saw ever but I'm a complete amateur and don't have a drill press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTG25ctEGko
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Feb 8, 2021 08:27
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Wasabi the J posted:I don't think I've had a good hole with a hole saw ever but I'm a complete amateur and don't have a drill press. Hole saws too poo poo, annular cutters too expensive.. 
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Feb 8, 2021 09:23
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I like to use holesaws in a too small drill press that doesn't have the power to actually drive them so I have to not apply much pressure and essentially just chatter my way through the material. It sounds amazing! (Finally got a good drill press a few years ago and it's so nice to be able to just bear down on it and DRILL instead of feeling my teeth curl for 15 minutes as the poor hole saw screams its life away one fraction of a mm at a time)
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Feb 8, 2021 12:09
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From my experience hole saws have too aggressive teeth for metal plate cutting. The speed and rate at which they have to cut doesn't match with the strength of the teeth and bit or the power output of the tools they're meant to be used with. It's a better distribution when notching tubes but still not ideal. They still need a shitload of cooling and lubrication. I find that diamond tipped hole saws are better equipped. Taking smaller "bites" per pass, lowering necessary RPM, reducing power requirements. It's more akin to an aluminum oxide chop saw wheel verses using a mitre saw wheel on a chunk of steel (oh god don't do the latter).
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Feb 8, 2021 13:45
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I just happened to buy a set of Blair Rotabroach cutters to make holes in steel plate/tubing for the tubing bender I’m making, I’ll report back.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:45
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um excuse me posted:From my experience hole saws have too aggressive teeth for metal plate cutting. The speed and rate at which they have to cut doesn't match with the strength of the teeth and bit or the power output of the tools they're meant to be used with. It's a better distribution when notching tubes but still not ideal. They still need a shitload of cooling and lubrication. I find that diamond tipped hole saws are better equipped. Taking smaller "bites" per pass, lowering necessary RPM, reducing power requirements. It's more akin to an aluminum oxide chop saw wheel verses using a mitre saw wheel on a chunk of steel (oh god don't do the latter). Somewhat recently I had to cut a bunch of 2" schedule 40 rigid conduit with a Skilsaw with a metal blade in it. That was fun.
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Feb 9, 2021 02:01
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HIIIOOOOOOOO  got my new gut tickler out back behind the shed- she needs a new belt and a good rewire job, but she works just fine - another one ticked off the list of my 40s craftsman collection - may not look like it, but this hernia heavy. do I..... https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html or do I..... https://www.amazon.com/Power-Twist-Plus-Link-V-Belt/dp/B08D8ZL9PM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=link+v+belt&qid=1612852432&sr=8-3
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Feb 9, 2021 07:35
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LobsterboyX posted:HIIIOOOOOOOO Whichever is more convenient. Of course it's heavy, it's basically solid cast iron. Does that have a riving knife? If not fabricate one ASAP or be REALLY careful not to smash yourself in the face with wood, also make sure you always use push-blocks.
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Feb 9, 2021 08:34
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LobsterboyX posted:HIIIOOOOOOOO How do you access the blade on that thing?
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Feb 9, 2021 11:15
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Elviscat posted:Whichever is more convenient. no knife, we die like real men... lol... i kid - I learned how to use a table saw on a model just like this one, in fact, this very well might be the one I learned on. (long story) - I took a few cuts on it in its diminished state and man, this thing really needs to be dialed in, in many ways. I don't know if you could even put a knife on this thing as it sits, I don't plan on using it for lots, I've gotten away thus far with a circ saw, altho I wish I had had this thing for a number of projects. Table saws always need to be treated with respect - I began using one at a very early age and I have never ever lost respect of become complacent while operating one, I've had kickbacks, but luckily always been able to know they were coming and avoid the big hurt. also safety glasses. honestly what's the most important is dialing your fence in square to avoid any binds, its got a few adjustments you can make on them, but this thing really just needs a good cleaning and oiling - I may even go so far as to get some UHMW pieces cut to line the fence with, as is the norm on modern fences. Cat Hatter posted:How do you access the blade on that thing? its a lovely night shot picture, but it has a removable flush mounted plate around the blade like any other saw - just hard to see because the thing is coated in a nice, even layer of dust and grime
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Feb 9, 2021 15:47
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LobsterboyX posted:HIIIOOOOOOOO Get the Harbor Freight belt. It's Jason Industrial A-link, which is as good as it gets. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Feb 9, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 16:00
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I sell all that poo poo to some clients. The Jason is OK, fenner and Gates are probably the best... but for table saw I can't imagine it's a problem either way. Why don't you want to use a regular V-belt? What kind of shape are the sheaves in? e: Me speak english good slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 21:30
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LobsterboyX posted:no knife, we die like real men... lol... i kid - I learned how to use a table saw on a model just like this one, in fact, this very well might be the one I learned on. (long story) - I took a few cuts on it in its diminished state and man, this thing really needs to be dialed in, in many ways. I don't know if you could even put a knife on this thing as it sits, I don't plan on using it for lots, I've gotten away thus far with a circ saw, altho I wish I had had this thing for a number of projects. I'll have to take your word about that removable plate existing. Once you're sure everything is adjusted square, you should really make yourself a zero-clearance insert with a splitter. You'll get better cuts and your saw will be a ton safer. https://youtu.be/gzdF-bLXc8Q
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Feb 10, 2021 01:23
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I know very little about table saws except they hunger for human flesh. Would it be less dangerous to have a low speed, but higher torque blade for this sort of application? While not compromising too much in the actual speed of the cuts?
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Feb 10, 2021 02:10
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