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Whatever the box says there is still a good chance the tube on the inside will still say kenda.
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Feb 2, 2021 02:50
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Random squeaking question - My bike seems to squeak when I'm pedalling but only in certain gears, from what I've seen it's usually the lower gears. This happens when standing or sitting so I know it's not the saddle or seatpost. I've cleaned and regreased the BB (pressfit so haven't taken the bearings out), crankset and pedals and I've also installed a new chain which was slightly overdue anyway. This also happens when the bike is on my direct drive trainer, so it doesn't seem like it would be anything to do with the cassette or rear wheel itself. It also only happens when I'm pedalling forward, if I pedal backwards it doesn't happen. Would anyone have any ideas on where it might be coming from?
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Feb 3, 2021 10:54
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CopperHound posted:Whatever the box says there is still a good chance the tube on the inside will still say kenda. Yeah but the one I'm talking about is some sort of thick budget tube. It weighs an absolute ton compared to the Conti race ones I generally use. I'm never gonna patch it like I do with other tubes but it's managed years without even that 
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Feb 3, 2021 16:53
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I’m new to tubeless tires and, let’s face it, a bike novice overall when it comes to maintenance. I’ve taken my new MTB for one real ride. Seemed fine after the ride but a day later and the rear tire can’t hold any pressure. I’ve pumped it up to 30 psi twice now and it’s flat as can be in a couple hours. I can’t see any specific puncture to plug, and I can’t hear any audible leak. Any advice is appreciated on how to figure out what is going on although might just be for future knowledge as I’m almost certainly going to call the shop tomorrow.
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Feb 8, 2021 06:01
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Leaks without an obvious gusher are one of 3 things: -Dried up/no sealant (sealant needs to get sloshed around real good to cover every surface) -Bad tape job -bad seal around valve stem - often a bad tape job is mistaken for a bad valve stem seal just because that is where the air escapes.
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Feb 8, 2021 06:31
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Voodoofly posted:I’m new to tubeless tires and, let’s face it, a bike novice overall when it comes to maintenance. If you've got a container big enough (or a bath), get the wheel under water and find the bubbles. It could just need half a turn on the valve nut Did it definitely come with sealant in there?
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Feb 8, 2021 07:16
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CopperHound posted:Leaks without an obvious gusher are one of 3 things: Could also be a failing/gummed up valve core if its old enough or gummed up with enough sealant. Had to replace one last month since it wouldn't fully seal anymore.
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Feb 8, 2021 10:45
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If you can't submerge it, inflate it up part your normal pressure and see if you can hear the hiss. Coat the tire/rim in soapy water and see if you get bubbling. If there is bubbling, your only easy fix is to shake the heck out of the wheel and hope sealant works into some area that it can plug. If you don't hear sloshing, there isn't enough sealant.
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Feb 8, 2021 12:04
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My planned upgrade to HY/RDs on my bike I keep at the office was going to be substantially easier with a repair stand, so after a bunch of research, I ended up with the Feedback Sports Pro Elite stand. I think it was originally recommended to me in this thread, so thanks to whoever put it on my radar. This thing is a beast, very happy with it so far. It seems incredibly well built and there was zero assembly required right out of box. I can’t believe I waited so long to get one, this is going to make basic service so much easier. REI had it $25 cheaper than anywhere else I could find online and it was the version with the travel bag for the stand, which will come in handy every time one of my friends wants to borrow it now.
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Feb 10, 2021 00:52
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Would a Specialized bike with SRAM hydros come with the calipers installed to the bike shop? Some of my t25 bolts look like they were installed with a 4mm Allen key because they’re chewed up, and I’m trying to figure out if this was a shop thing or a Specialized thing.
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Feb 10, 2021 19:50
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Would a Specialized bike with SRAM hydros come with the calipers installed to the bike shop? Some of my t25 bolts look like they were installed with a 4mm Allen key because they’re chewed up, and I’m trying to figure out if this was a shop thing or a Specialized thing. Absolutely a shop thing. Most of the time the caliper would be installed to the frame on a bike shipped to a shop but they might have taken the bolt off for a customer's bike or something.
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Feb 10, 2021 20:02
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VelociBacon posted:Absolutely a shop thing. Thanks.
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Feb 10, 2021 20:03
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All bikes come with the front caliper uninstalled (and sometimes with hydros coiled up so bad it looks like a pig tail when assembled  ) and I can't remember the last time I built a bike and didn't have to adjust the rear brake.That shop owes you new bolts and their mechanic needs to either throw out his Allen keys or stop using the ball head wrench to torque down bolts.
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Feb 11, 2021 04:07
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Are they flat mount? I'm going to defend the shop here and call out SRAM. Their flat mount t25 bolts are made out of the softest stainless I have ever encountered. They also have a terribly loose fit on every t25 wrench I've tried including Silca, PB swiss, and wera. On top of that, the caliper was designed without proper tool clearance and the body interferes with the wrench, cocking it off to the side. I've told every SRAM rep I've encountered about it and they just shrug their shoulders and say "we know." If it were up to me, every equipped bike would include a $25 labor credit to fix the problem. The shop should still take care of it for you, but unfortunately it's SRAM's mistake and SRAM will make the shop eat the cost.
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Feb 11, 2021 05:07
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eSporks posted:Are they flat mount? They are flat mount. This is good to know. I had to stick a piece of helicopter tape over the caliper to work on it since any tool I had would rub on the caliper body. The bottom bolt was easy to work on, the top one not so much. The bolts I installed are the titanium version (supposedly) so perhaps they’ll hold up a bit better if the original installed bolts were the stainless steel. I ordered the cool rainbow bolts and just got the plain ones in though. loving SRAM.
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Feb 11, 2021 11:51
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eSporks posted:Are they flat mount? Would the tiny T25 that comes with Avid rotors fit in there properly? Screw SRAM for using Torx on their caliper bolts. Completely glazed over that part of the post. Flat mount in general has been a much bigger pain in the rear end than post or IS for assembly but eh, looks pretty I guess. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 14:22
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What's wrong with torx?
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Feb 11, 2021 20:11
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It's even easier to strip or wreck your wrench than hex and while you should never use it to really torque it down being able to use a ball end hex makes setting up brakes so much easier. Granted the bolts being on the bottom of a flat mount rear makes it way less of a pain than it would be using torx on post mount.
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Feb 11, 2021 20:37
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I've found it's easy to use a one-size-too-small torx driver and strip out your tool and your bolt, but if you use the right sized driver (namely, the largest one that fits) you can go nuts.
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Feb 11, 2021 20:45
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I have had the opposite experience wrt hex vs torx and stripping but I use the right size wrench, ball hexes are king for loving fasteners. Imo if I'm gonna have one drive type on my bike it's gonna be torx.
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Feb 11, 2021 21:03
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Eh maybe it's the torx wrenches we use. They seem to get mangled a little too easily and the park one also has a habit of snapping. Agree on the loving bolts with ball wrenches. They're amazing for getting bolts spun in but anything much beyond finger tight and you're gonna have trouble (and with torx even finger tight at an angle is asking for grief that's gotta be square on always). I use the ball end all the time to get calipers centered but when it comes time to actually crank it down the bolts for the rear one I have to fish in my pouch to get the one key that fits in there. XS post mount frames can suck a bag of dicks all day.
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Feb 11, 2021 21:18
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:I have had the opposite experience wrt hex vs torx and stripping but I use the right size wrench, ball hexes are king for loving fasteners. 
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Feb 11, 2021 21:58
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No love for Robertson Drive in the bike thread 
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Feb 11, 2021 23:28
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There's no wrong interface format for bolts, only wrong size of bolt head.
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Feb 12, 2021 03:23
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Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors.
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Feb 12, 2021 04:36
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CopperHound posted:No love for Robertson Drive in the bike thread It's good but also too Canadian.
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Feb 12, 2021 04:46
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sweat poteto posted:Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors. The lovely Tektro that came busted on a new bike ended up with that same mark from removal. Why you'd want to put flat mount calipers on a cheap hybrid is beyond me. You literally can't buy replacements, at least not from our suppliers, so glhf if you break it in a way that isn't covered by warranty.
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Feb 12, 2021 04:52
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sweat poteto posted:Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors. Please send this picture to SRAM as a customer and complain about it. It's unacceptable that they have a design so poorly thought out and just expect everyone to be cool with it.
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Feb 12, 2021 07:10
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EvilJoven posted:Eh maybe it's the torx wrenches we use. They seem to get mangled a little too easily and the park one also has a habit of snapping. sweat poteto posted:Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors.
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Feb 12, 2021 10:09
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Hydros are just cursed. If it isn't that it's Levels/Guides that break and lock up after a few months of use it's Shimanos that leak from the caliper out of the box or Tektros with brand new levers that pull to the bar because of blown seals. And don't get me started on that lovely hybrid system Giant had on some bikes for a few years. That's 100% remove throw in garbage install compressionless housing and Spyres right there. Never seen someone have to skip a ride because their BB7 decided it just didn't want to work that morning. I'd probably be singing a different tune if I did more mountain biking or road/gravel riding where there's actually hills tall enough you aren't just bombing down em.
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Feb 12, 2021 14:23
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evil_bunnY posted:Yeah, torx owns in general but as with everything else, quality/tolerances means more than what fastener type you use. I'm halfway to rounding out the bolt on my Kryptonite flexframe bracket through a combination of my own laziness and them using fairly soft metal. Seems you have to take the whole thing off, pull the strap taut, then retighten the bolt, rather than just trying to tighten up the bolt til your allen key slips. Interestingly these brackets work fine on my steel bike, but shake loose within a month when mounted on aluminium. By interesting I mean extremely annoying. Anyone have a fix for this?
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Feb 12, 2021 15:47
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EvilJoven posted:
Going to throw in support for spyres though. If they can stop my fully loaded touring bike, they can stop your road bike too.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:29
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EvilJoven posted:Hydros are just cursed. If it isn't that it's Levels/Guides that break and lock up after a few months of use it's Shimanos that leak from the caliper out of the box or Tektros with brand new levers that pull to the bar because of blown seals. Let me introduce you to our lord and savior Hope Technology Ltd. Al2001 posted:Interestingly these brackets work fine on my steel bike, but shake loose within a month when mounted on aluminium. By interesting I mean extremely annoying. Anyone have a fix for this? EvilJoven posted:Never seen someone have to skip a ride because their BB7 decided it just didn't want to work that morning. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 18:38
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The guide brake caliper on my fatty started sticking. I got it replaced and now all is well. If I crack open the original caliper and cleaned out all the corrosion can I hang on to it as a usable spare or is it just shot for good?
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Feb 12, 2021 20:22
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Anything that can be added to the shitbin should be added to the shitbin, until the shitbin gets full then it's time to throw things out based on how many parts there are left that you can scavenge off of it.
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Feb 12, 2021 20:27
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I'm not going to hoard broken gear. Either it can be cleaned up and reused or it's trash.
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Feb 12, 2021 21:43
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You'll regret it 5 years from now when you need a spare bleed port screw for an out of production brake caliper. Bike shop lyfe.
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Feb 12, 2021 22:18
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Might be corrosion might need new seals, piston retraction comes from the flex in your seals so they might be shot. Should be easy to open it up and see what's in there, worse case it gets trashed in pieces instead of assembled.
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Feb 12, 2021 22:43
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Crumps Brother posted:I'm not going to hoard broken gear. Either it can be cleaned up and reused or it's trash. Worth the effort? 
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Feb 13, 2021 03:46
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I was just riding my 2005 Cervelo R3 with Campy Chorus 2×10 on my trainer. My garage is <50°F so I wear a sweatshirt to warm up and when I was taking it off I let the sleeve get sucked into the chain and the front derailleur exploded. First, how bad is my frame? Three of four rivets got yanked out. Second is it worth trying to find a replacement FD? I have had trouble with the front shifting anyway because its had a mismatched (non-Campy) crankset since I bought it (used).
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Feb 14, 2021 05:13
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