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Toe Rag posted:I want to vomit. Oh dear, I've seen patch panels that require a much stronger stomach than that one
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Feb 15, 2021 20:26
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HalloKitty posted:Oh dear, I've seen patch panels that require a much stronger stomach than that one You haven't truly died inside until you've seen an entire row of full cabinets that can't even have the doors closed thanks to bad cabling.
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Feb 15, 2021 21:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:You haven't truly died inside until you've seen an entire row of full cabinets that can't even have the doors closed thanks to bad cabling. Protip take the doors off
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Feb 15, 2021 21:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:You haven't truly died inside until you've seen an entire row of full cabinets that can't even have the doors closed thanks to bad cabling. Nothing like mostly empty cable trays above the cabs with cables dangling across the front  Nothing as permanent as a temporary solution that works! Bonus if you can find some hideously contorted fibre, and switches that can't actually be seen for all the mess HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Feb 15, 2021 |
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Feb 15, 2021 21:52
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Congrats on the new thread title!
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Feb 15, 2021 23:42
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Honestly cabling is pretty easy. I used to do it all the time, but I can't find any good pictures. Just run your cables longest to shortest, don't run any cable through another's slack, and never cross cables. It's even better if you split your panel at the middle. These used to look good when I was the only one touching them  This is unfortunately what too many things look like  Power should always look good ... there's no excuse. 
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Feb 16, 2021 01:09
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The difference in cabling is whether you got paid to fix an issue or require the rack properly.
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Feb 16, 2021 01:55
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The protip on network cabling is figure out what to do with the excess cable length or have custom length made cables each time.
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Feb 16, 2021 03:50
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at least i have the parts to patch my poo poo down properly and clean it up, i just havent expended the effort to yet (nor the desire to shut the whole house down of internet while i do so and uh this is a "multiple streaming household" fiber just on the fuckin raised floor in the dirt and dust unknown posted:The protip on network cabling is figure out what to do with the excess cable length or have custom length made cables each time. yeah since i just had all this cat6 installed in my house i asked the guy to leave me 20 extra feet in the garage... so like in the pic, there's some bundling going on until it hits the rack... Gonna give myself like a 2 foot service loop of spare cable in a circle then into the cabinet and cut to fit to terminate into patch panels, then do all patches from then on with cable management just need to uh do it
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Feb 16, 2021 03:52
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Installed cabling is a given (loop extra in ceiling, etc) because that's the definition of custom length. I meant cables within a rack. Almost no one keeps a complete set of different lengths in like 1ft increments. So what happens to the excess when a 10ft patch is used for a 7ft run.
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Feb 16, 2021 04:19
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H110Hawk posted:Protip take the doors off They never did, but someone in management was finally convinced to spend the very significant manhours needed to unfuck it. It's still not pretty but at least everything closes. HalloKitty posted:Nothing like mostly empty cable trays above the cabs with cables dangling across the front Yep, it had all of this going on. It was the result of countless people, none of whom could ever be assed to think 'big picture', going in and just hooking up whatever cable they had wherever it needed to go to make the link lights come on. The other part of why this made me die a bit inside is that we actually had a team of people whose job it was just to do cabling, and they would do beautiful custom-terminated cables where everything is labeled on both ends and it all just flows neatly from switch to switch. Apparently nobody ever thought to have them involved.
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Feb 16, 2021 04:38
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I need a longer fiber cable for my internet, but I can't seem to find one that matches what I currently have. It sort of looks like this... This looks to be the closest thing, but is it the correct one? I'm not too sure waht SC/APC means. I called the internet provider (Sonic) and just told me it was a fiber cable. They would need a tech to come out to look at the wire...
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Feb 16, 2021 22:06
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Green APC cables vs blue UPC cables have to do with the end face of the fiber and you'll want to match the existing. SC refers to the physical connector footprint and LC is the other major connector. That cable looks the same as yours, but you'll want to check the other end if you haven't as it could be different.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:13
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Looking to buy a new router to better handle my new 500/500 internet. Currently I have a TP-Link AC1750 v2, and it doesn't want to give me more than 100mbps, both wired and wireless. Any recommendations? I'm thinking about doing something MicroTik, but they're a little intimidating. I just want something that's not going to need to be reset every couple of days because the speeds suddenly drop for some reason. Something reliable, with wireless, obviously. The MicroTik AC3 looks cool, but I can't find it anywhere. I don't want to just use the modem that came with my internet because the wifi signal isn't great, and it's not near the majority of my other networked stuff (NAS, a switch, etc). Any suggestions? The TP-Link AC1800 looks alright, but some user reviews make it sound like it has some QA problems or something. I dunno. Sneeze Party fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Feb 17, 2021 |
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Feb 17, 2021 00:37
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Sneeze Party posted:Looking to buy a new router to better handle my new 500/500 internet. Currently I have a TP-Link AC1750 v2, and it doesn't want to give me more than 100mbps, both wired and wireless. Any recommendations? I'm thinking about doing something MicroTik, but they're a little intimidating. I just want something that's not going to need to be reset every couple of days because. Something reliable, with wireless, obviously. It shouldn’t be limiting you to 100 on wired. That implies you have low link speed either due to the cable you are using or you client system having an old NIC. Because the wireless is acting the same, I’d check the cable from your modem to your router first.
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Feb 17, 2021 00:50
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thiazi posted:It shouldn’t be limiting you to 100 on wired. That implies you have low link speed either due to the cable you are using or you client system having an old NIC. Because the wireless is acting the same, I’d check the cable from your modem to your router first.
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Feb 17, 2021 00:52
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I second doing a little more troubleshooting before buying a new router. Have you tried connecting a PC directly to your modem to make sure (you're getting|the modem can handle) the advertised 500/500? What modem is it?
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Feb 17, 2021 01:04
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Sneeze Party posted:That's something that I've done already, but it didn't make a difference. I've read that some copies of this router have this problem. Does it only do that on internet traffic, or also the LAN? Have you tested transfer speeds between your NAS and a client and still only getting 100 on the LAN?
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Feb 17, 2021 01:05
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I do appreciate the troubleshooting steps, but yes, I have tried all of that. I've never been able to get speeds through the router greater than 100mbps on any port, even on the LAN.
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Feb 17, 2021 01:05
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Sneeze Party posted:I do appreciate the troubleshooting steps, but yes, I have tried all of that. I've never been able to get speeds through the router greater than 100mbps on any port, even on the LAN. Thread favorites are Ubiquiti for something “better” than the asus/tplink/netgear things, you could go with UDM or separate router and WAP, but that would be on the level of Mikrotik complexity I think. If you want to do mesh, there’s tons of options but google wifi, Orbi and Eero are used by a lot of people in here.
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Feb 17, 2021 01:22
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KS posted:Green APC cables vs blue UPC cables have to do with the end face of the fiber and you'll want to match the existing. SC refers to the physical connector footprint and LC is the other major connector. Got it. So pick green and make sure the end connectors are the same. Thanks!
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Feb 17, 2021 01:29
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Sneeze Party posted:I do appreciate the troubleshooting steps, but yes, I have tried all of that. I've never been able to get speeds through the router greater than 100mbps on any port, even on the LAN. Have you talked to your ISP because if you are getting 100 on everything including directly into your modem doesn’t sound like a router issue.
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Feb 17, 2021 01:57
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Directly to my router, I get 100. Directly to my modem, I get about 480. Sorry for the confusion.
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Feb 17, 2021 02:06
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Well right now you could do a Ubiquiti Dream Machine, which has good wifi built into it and should be plenty fast for what you need. If you want two divices to give you some flexibility for what you upgrade in the future, some flavor of edgerouter and something like a Nano HD or a Unifi 6 Lite wireless would be good options. If you want like, all the beef, the Dream Machine Pro and one of those wireless access points would be very good. If you go with an external wireless access point, keep in mind that you need a power over ethernet injector for any of the options above. Not really a big deal, just takes up an extra plug. They do make networking equipment with power over ethernet built in, but uh, how much you wanna spend because we can fill a budget. KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Feb 17, 2021 |
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Feb 17, 2021 02:39
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Sneeze Party posted:Directly to my router, I get 100. Directly to my modem, I get about 480. Sorry for the confusion. Dropping to 100 sounds like bad cable or connector, because partial cable failure results in 1000mb Ethernet dropping to 100mb.
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Feb 17, 2021 02:49
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obi_ant posted:Got it. So pick green and make sure the end connectors are the same. Thanks! You will also need a SC/SC coupler. the cable itself is male to male.
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Feb 17, 2021 02:50
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Evis posted:Dropping to 100 sounds like bad cable or connector, because partial cable failure results in 1000mb Ethernet dropping to 100mb. Searching around, it does seem like others have had this issue with this model of router. Sneeze Party, do you have a budget in mind?
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Feb 17, 2021 02:57
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Actuarial Fables posted:Searching around, it does seem like others have had this issue with this model of router.
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Feb 17, 2021 03:56
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Speaking of Ubiquiti access points, just saw this video today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebrmfLDe1eQ I would have liked to have seen some more client-by-client statistics, but overall it seems like there's very little reason to pick anything but the Unifi 6 Lite.
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Feb 17, 2021 04:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Speaking of Ubiquiti access points, just saw this video today: In the comments he says he set the wifi 6 APs to 80mhz channel widths and left the others to 40...I normally like his channel but that's just stupid.
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Feb 17, 2021 14:56
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Cyks posted:In the comments he says he set the wifi 6 APs to 80mhz channel widths and left the others to 40...I normally like his channel but that's just stupid. Yeesh. I doubt it would make enough of a difference to make the UAP-AC-PRO not be behind the Unifi6 but that's just sloppy.
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Feb 17, 2021 15:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeesh. I doubt it would make enough of a difference to make the UAP-AC-PRO not be behind the Unifi6 but that's just sloppy. Hard to say. The unifi6 has a maximum data rate of 1201Mbps using two spatial streams when using 1024-QAM and the Pro 1300Mbps using three at 256-QAM. But he intentionally crippled it to 600, and I don't recall any details about the testing equipment or testing at different ranges. I do agree that the U6-Lite is the better recommendation for your average home user considering cost and performance but it's a bad video.
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Feb 17, 2021 17:42
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Yeah that video would work better as an article, and it's irritating that he doesn't list other stuff like equipment used, NICs and chipsets, what OSes, was it done in his condo with five million other WANs polluting the air or in a shack away from civilization.. it's all "just take my word for it" lazy generalized bullshit.
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Feb 17, 2021 18:36
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H110Hawk posted:You will also need a SC/SC coupler. the cable itself is male to male. Here is a picture of the cable that I currently have at home, both ends are the same.  It looks almost exactly the same as 10M SC/APC connector here. In the first picture I can't see the end because the picture is so washed out, and the third picture has what I assume is a protective cap on it? Would I still need a the coupler? They have a SC/SC here but the color isn't green. According to KC the the SC refers to the connector in the front? Sorry, I just confused the hell out of myself.
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Feb 17, 2021 19:52
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I did the EdgeRouter web UI let’s encrypt very thingie and it worked a charm! I know it’s spergy as gently caress but invalid certs really bug me.
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Feb 17, 2021 20:07
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Binary Badger posted:Yeah that video would work better as an article, and it's irritating that he doesn't list other stuff like equipment used, NICs and chipsets, what OSes, was it done in his condo with five million other WANs polluting the air or in a shack away from civilization.. it's all "just take my word for it" lazy generalized bullshit. He does hit on the configurations of the end nodes but it's pretty much downhill from there. bolind posted:I did the EdgeRouter web UI let’s encrypt very thingie and it worked a charm! It's not, especially with how modern browsers make you jump through hoops to deal with this poo poo even in RFC 1918 space. I need to deal with this on my Unifi controller still.
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Feb 17, 2021 20:19
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obi_ant posted:Here is a picture of the cable that I currently have at home, both ends are the same. https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Adapter-Coupler-Simplex-Singlemode/dp/B005NXQN28 The little white protruding part that's sorta domed off in your picture is where the light comes out. Do not look into that while it's emitting, such as if your ISP has it on. When you get your jumper cable if you look VERY closely before you plug it in you can probably see a pinhole - that's where the light comes out. The fiber itself is as thin as your hair. Everything else is protection. Don't touch it, it should have a little cap on it, but that's almost certainly hosed off into oblivion. The third picture in your amazon link shows the coupler in action. What matters to you are the specs, everything else is marketing bullshit. PRODUCT DETAILS - Connectors are SCAPC to SCAPC SM SX, Mode: 9/125μm. Wavelength: 1310nm to 1550nm. Jacket Material: PVC (default)/LSZH/OFNP. Jacket Color: Yellow. OD: standards 2.0/3.0 (default)/0.9/3.0mm So they are: SC with APC polish on both sides, "SM" - single mode, 9/125 (standard single mode,), supports wavelengths between 1310nm-1550nm (standard single mode wavelengths), Jacket is made out of PVC and is plenum rated / won't choke you to death if it burns. It's yellow, it could be pink or any other color it doesn't matter. Outer diameter also doesn't matter.
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Feb 17, 2021 20:39
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The wifi situation in my Townhouse is doing my head in. I’ve decided to just drill a hole from the office to the bedroom and run a second wifi router in the bedroom. I don’t know what is in the single wall that blocks the signal (the place is in CA so it’s not a block wall) but if I walk from the doorway to the corner of the room (maybe 10 ft) my signal drops like a rock. It’s pretty insane. It’s not even a big place! I’ve moved the wifi router to every possible spot in the office with 0 change. I think eventually I’m going to have to use a power line and do the same thing for the downstairs because the signal also suffers when I’m in the kitchen. It’s one wall!
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Feb 17, 2021 20:51
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obi_ant posted:Would I still need a the coupler? You need a coupler if you're trying to extend the existing cable rather than pull a longer one through to replace that.
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Feb 17, 2021 20:52
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You may not want a second router unless that router can be turned into strictly an access point or have the routin abilities turned off. You run into some fun problems having a router behind another router.
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Feb 17, 2021 20:56
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