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bicievino posted:Virtually everyone who cares about going fast on a bike should be on a zero offset seatpost. I went from a stock setback post to an inline post to a forward-offset post (?!) to a custom frame with a 78 degree seat tube (and an inline post). Don't look at me like that! I'm normal dammit! I wish I was fast though.
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Feb 19, 2021 06:51
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sweat poteto posted:
It's enough that you care. <3
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Feb 19, 2021 08:20
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sweat poteto posted:I went from a stock setback post to an inline post to a forward-offset post (?!) to a custom frame with a 78 degree seat tube (and an inline post). Don't look at me like that! I'm normal dammit! I feel this post, I'm pretty tall with long legs so by the time I've got the saddle high enough of a lot of frames I'm now stretching for the bars. The only way I've found to fix it is a straight post with the saddle scooted forward, but I was considering a forward post on one of my bikes.
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Feb 19, 2021 14:01
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Setback is preference by feel and anatomy. Except 0 setback and leaned all over the front of your bike is correct 
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Feb 19, 2021 17:38
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jammyozzy posted:I was considering a forward post on one of my bikes. I used the Fast Forward post as a test before getting the frame. No problem except it's ugly as hell.. and I crushed the carbon at the clamp, but that's probably my fault. The redshift post looks better.
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Feb 20, 2021 00:58
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I'm not sure the redshift post in forward mode will let you set the saddle level.
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Feb 20, 2021 02:05
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kimbo305 posted:I'm not sure the redshift post in forward mode will let you set the saddle level.
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Feb 20, 2021 03:47
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CopperHound posted:It is a parallelogram linkage, so I don't think the saddle angle changes. I'll double check next time I get my hands on it. Related: does anyone want to buy a redshift seatpost from santa Cruz bike church? You're right: https://redshiftsports.com/products/dual-position-seatpost Though I swear it looked tipped forward on mine.
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Feb 20, 2021 04:47
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Nothing to do with seatposts, angles, or any of that. Just a way to carry more when I stop at the grocery store on my way home from work. New rack.  New rack on my bike by Martin Brummell, on FlickrAnd I tightened up the brake cables a bit, hoping to reduce the freeplay in the levers.
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Feb 20, 2021 06:23
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ExecuDork posted:And I tightened up the brake cables a bit, hoping to reduce the freeplay in the levers. Did it work?
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Feb 20, 2021 08:32
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kimbo305 posted:Did it work? 1/2 worked. The front brake lever is still a little loose for my liking. I need to adjust the rear derailleur cable, too, so I have a reason to spend a bit more time with my bike tomorrow. The rack works well. I've never had one before and I'm discovering some new considerations. Such as the way the bike really wants to fall over when there's 12 bottles of beer in a bag on the rack.
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Feb 20, 2021 09:51
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ExecuDork posted:1/2 worked. The front brake lever is still a little loose for my liking. If you were doing only the barrel adjuster, then you should loosen that all the way and pull more cable though the brake arm clamp before going back to the barrel.
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Feb 20, 2021 09:52
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jammyozzy posted:I feel this post, I'm pretty tall with long legs so by the time I've got the saddle high enough of a lot of frames I'm now stretching for the bars. The only way I've found to fix it is a straight post with the saddle scooted forward, but I was considering a forward post on one of my bikes. Isn't this like the classic "don't adjust reach with saddle setback" thing? I.e. change stem??
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Feb 21, 2021 16:57
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short legs long torso squad 
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Feb 21, 2021 17:26
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amenenema posted:Isn't this like the classic "don't adjust reach with saddle setback" thing? I.e. change stem?? Yes. As you say, they're two independent but related measurements, and jamming the saddle back or forwards to solve for handlebar reach isn't ideal.
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Feb 21, 2021 17:28
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e.pilot posted:short legs long torso squad This is me but a five level spinal fusion so I can’t reach poo poo.
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Feb 21, 2021 17:50
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Voodoofly posted:This is me but a five level spinal fusion so I can’t reach poo poo. 
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Feb 21, 2021 18:33
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amenenema posted:Isn't this like the classic "don't adjust reach with saddle setback" thing? I.e. change stem?? For sure, and I've already done that on my bikes but there's a couple where the stem was getting so short it was making the bike too twitchy, and the next step was start messing with the saddle.
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Feb 21, 2021 19:09
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amenenema posted:
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Feb 21, 2021 22:21
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 Lift your skinny stem like an antenna to heaven
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Feb 21, 2021 22:55
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 Holy moly look at this bike
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Feb 21, 2021 23:01
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Recs for bladed spoke holder? I have Mavic Ellipses and Zipp 404s, which seem to be quite different in spoke profile. But guessing most tools are universal?
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Feb 22, 2021 12:34
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Park Tool BSH-4 Big honkin' plastic dog bone with 4 sides. Gets the job the done, cheap. DT-swiss Expensive, but it's the best one I know of. Fits a tool box easily. If paired with the DT swiss nipple wrench, it's holds the spoke as close possible to the nipple to prevent twisting. Size specific.
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Feb 22, 2021 16:58
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Lol what problem is this geo trying to fix, low bridge clearance?!?
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Feb 22, 2021 18:16
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Well the Praxis PF86 BB that started acting up at mile ~750 finally gave up at exactly mile 1500. Along with the broken chainrings and spider, the whole setup has been nothing but trouble. Constant creaking and popping noises unless it was fully cleaned and greased once a week. It did shift well though. The whole thing has been pulled and set aside. I pressed in a Dura Ace BB and I am just waiting on the GRX crankset to arrive. On a related note, I tried my best to buy from a local shop. But none of them have the aforementioned parts in stock and they all quote 2 week+ arrival times. Oh well. Hopefull this will put my BB/crankset issues to rest once and for all.
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Feb 22, 2021 21:25
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kimbo305 posted:If you were doing only the barrel adjuster, then you should loosen that all the way and pull more cable though the brake arm clamp before going back to the barrel. I got lazy on Sunday and didn't do poo poo. The adjustments I did on Saturday were exactly that - loosen holding screw at brake calipers, pull cable through the brake arm clamp (i.e. move arm tighter while pulling on wire; I need a third hand), tighten screw, lament the tendency of the arm to move as I try to rotate the screw. Yesterday (Monday) I tried to tighten up the front brakes with the barrel adjuster. It was already maxed out at the caliper, but I put a few rotations on it at the lever. Made a small difference. I need to stop being so lazy and actually work on it, and do what you suggest. Also, the chain is jumping under load. This is particularly noticeable in the smallest front chainring, but that could be confounded by the fact that I mostly push hard only when I'm starting from stop or climbing a hill, which is when I'm on that smallest front ring. It also jumps when I'm on the other front chainrings, just less often. The problem is rapidly getting worse, I need to solve this before my bike becomes unrideable halfway to work. The bike was doing this in January, and when I took it to the LBS where I bought it for my free first maintenance they solved that problem. I want to solve this myself, rather than give them money. What screw do I turn to make my chain jump under load less often? What keywords should I throw at Youtube to find a good video?
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Feb 23, 2021 00:17
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ExecuDork posted:I got lazy on Sunday and didn't do poo poo. The adjustments I did on Saturday were exactly that - loosen holding screw at brake calipers, pull cable through the brake arm clamp (i.e. move arm tighter while pulling on wire; I need a third hand), tighten screw, lament the tendency of the arm to move as I try to rotate the screw. There are two most common causes of chain jumping under load: 1) chain and/or chainrings are worn. How many miles do you have on it (and in what kind of conditions)? 2) derailleurs misaligned. It seems unlikely that the problem would be rapidly deteriorating if it was just misalignment, but here is the service manual for your Tourney derailleurs: https://si.shimano.com/#/en/DM/GN0001 . I couldn't find a good video that covered both front and rear tourney derailleur adjustment, although there appear to be a few for rear.
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Feb 23, 2021 00:44
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bicievino posted:There are two most common causes of chain jumping under load: Thanks for the manual, I'll have a look. I strongly suspect the issue is at the rear. Maybe if I get extra-ambitious I'll clamp my GoPro to the rear frame and see if I can capture a chain jump event. Does the goon hivemind have a prefered chain lube? Conditions are dry most of the time but I do ride in the rain sometimes.
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Feb 23, 2021 01:18
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ExecuDork posted:I got lazy on Sunday and didn't do poo poo. The adjustments I did on Saturday were exactly that - loosen holding screw at brake calipers, pull cable through the brake arm clamp (i.e. move arm tighter while pulling on wire; I need a third hand) Not that it's come to it yet, but there is a tool by that name. Or cable puller for the less poetic https://www.amazon.com.au/Pedros-138900-Cable-Puller/dp/B000IZGF6A Knockoff might be ok, the critical parts are the ratchet and squeezed width https://www.amazon.com.au/LILASTORE-Cycling-Ergonomic-Carbon-Bicycle/dp/B07RHHWKTP I generally don't find I need it for brakes, but front derailleur cable, yeah, it can be handy.
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Feb 23, 2021 01:41
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ExecuDork posted:What screw do I turn to make my chain jump under load less often? What keywords should I throw at Youtube to find a good video? https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment This helped me get my rear derailleur dialed in. It was still skipping, so I ended getting a new cassette (which I haven't installed yet).
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Feb 23, 2021 02:13
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ExecuDork posted:About 850km on it, overwhelmingly on the paved MUP of my commute, plus a bit of the MTB trails every once in a while. Never in mud, the path is paved (used to be some coarse gravel parts, since been paved over) everywhere and I don't ride the MTB trails after rain - the sign at the entrance asked me not to because of erosion issues. If I'm not on the MUP or the trails I'm on city streets, gentle hills and mild traffic on good paved roads. I probably spend 80% of my time in the middle gear at the rear, 4. But the chain will jump under load in other rear gears. Take close-up photos of your chainrings and cassette. Also the hivemind generally recommends Rock n Roll Gold.
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Feb 23, 2021 06:22
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I just purchased a park tool bike stand and it appears to be missing one screw (Button Head Cap Screw M5 x 30mm). This is probably a stupid question, but is there any reason I really need to wait for Park Tools to figure out how to send me a replacement screw, or am I fine just going to a local hardware store and buying the same type of screw to use? If it makes a difference it's the screw being inserted right here in this assembly video. If a normal screw is fine, is there any magic to threadlocker or will anyone do the trick (I notice it has what I assume is threadlocker on the screw in that video).
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Feb 23, 2021 06:42
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Any M5x30 screw should do. Chance are if you buy one from a hardware store it won't have the threadlock patch on it, but you can just put any low or medium strength liquid theeadlocker on it (like Loctite 222 or 242) and it will be fine. You can probably get away without threadlocker and just check it's snug occasionally.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:14
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I have that exact stand and while it's excellent in holding the bike up why on earth doesn't it come with a more useful tool/small part holder? Probably an aftermarket upgrade they want to sell.
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Feb 23, 2021 07:31
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simmyb posted:Any M5x30 screw should do. Yep that worked thanks. And I'm foregoing thread locker for now in the chance that Park Tool does respond and send me their official bolt for some reason (I just asked them to give me a tiny store credit instead so I can but a chain checker or something). Salt Fish posted:I have that exact stand and while it's excellent in holding the bike up why on earth doesn't it come with a more useful tool/small part holder? Probably an aftermarket upgrade they want to sell. Yeah they will probably get me eventually with that upsale too. I just wanted something heavy enough to hold my 50ish pound bike while staying stable, plus had a quick release on the clamp so that I didn't have to hold my 50ish pound bike for too long clamping it in.
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Feb 23, 2021 21:50
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TobinHatesYou posted:Take close-up photos of your chainrings and cassette. This morning I put it up on the stand, then turned it around so the chain side was away from the stand, then stared at it for a bit. I pulled the dried grass and crap out of the cassette, which was solidly wedged in right along 3-4-5, plus some seeds and gunk out of the hanger. And I lubed the chain with the el-cheapo "dry conditions only" lube I bought at Aldi months ago, and took it through all of the gears and generally hosed with it. Total success! My commute was chain-jump free and all of my shifts, starts, and hill-climbs were smooth. Also, my chain was much, much less noisy - it had been pretty squeaky before. Also, I realized while it was on the stand that my messing with the brakes now means there's a slight drag on the rear wheel, the caliper on one side is lightly rubbing the brake disk. And the brake disk is very slightly off-true, perhaps it's a bit warped or misaligned (or the wheel is a tiny bit misaligned in the frame, dunno). It's not enough drag to notice when I'm riding, it just slows the wheel down on the stand after I stop pedalling with my hand. A problem for the weekend. I'll add Rock n Roll Gold to my shopping list, thanks!
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Feb 24, 2021 01:30
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ExecuDork posted:it had been pretty squeaky before You'll want to get lube on your chain as soon as you hear any squeaks.
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Feb 24, 2021 05:02
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Just replaced my chain after about 5000km because it had become rusty this winter after poor maintenance. I sized it to the same length and same amount of links as the old one (checked both by laying them side by side). Reused the quick link for now to test. It's now slipping under load. Can improve this by tensioning stuff or is this definitely caused by wear of the casette?
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Feb 28, 2021 17:28
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You’ve probably ruined the cassette if you ran a lovely rusted chain for that long, yes.
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Feb 28, 2021 17:31
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:You’ve probably ruined the cassette if you ran a lovely rusted chain for that long, yes. I didn't cycle with it while rusty, it sat in a damp shed for a couple of months and it got a bit rusty so i replaced it before riding again.
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Feb 28, 2021 17:36
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