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A basic fact of audio is that roughly 90%1 of what you're hearing is your speakers interacting with the room. Speaker frequency response charts can be helpful in determining both if it's going to exacerbate aspects of your room sound and overall quality, like I'm going to guess that second chart is for a Revel speaker. Amplifiers and sources generally matter less as long as you're not expecting literal movie theater levels of volume. For normal listening I think anything with a noise floor below -90 dB2 and THD of less than one of half of a percent are safe choices. Better gear has better numbers but it probably won't sound better with the same speakers in the same room. As far as power unless you have very inefficient speakers3 an actual4 50 watts per channel will be good for the vast majority of home listening except for maybe house parties5. 1 this is an arguable percentage, I just made it up 2 this is not the same as Amir's SINAD 3 like 85dB and low impedance, 3-6 ohms 4 say 20-20,000 hertz at 8 ohms, this is not a definitive "real watts" figure, again, I'm guesstimating 5 buy cheap PA speakers for that, also don't have house parties or you'll get/spread the plague [all these footnotes are why everyone normal hates audio]
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Mar 9, 2021 21:23
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qirex posted:The Sprout has a kind of hilarious frequency response curve I unfortunately don't understand the ramifications of enough of that - but I did read that the sprout100 has a bass boost mode. Surely that graph is with it turned on? It seems like a generally positive impression otherwise though. Or is that for the original sprout? I just read that you can't turn the bass boost mode off at all on the original, but the '100' revision you can. Odd choice but I'm glad I have the option. The sprout arrives on Friday, I'm looking forward to hooking it up (not just because my ps5 arrived early and has nowhere to go) Will be interesting switching amps with the same speakers to see what kind of difference, if any, I can hear. Actually got really excited about the oberon5's the more I read about them so I've listed my current speakers (pl-89's) for sale and will pick up the oberon5's once theyre gone. cubicle gangster fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Mar 11, 2021 |
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Mar 11, 2021 04:46
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That might be an older model but that wasn't with bass boost turned on, the reviewer though it was to make small speakers sound "fuller." PS Audio is a decently regarded company although their CEO has a bad habit of posting half hour youtubes about how you need his fancy $10k power cleaning gadgets or else your system will be crap. The Sprout100 looks like a solid product and if you're not willing to chance it on a Chinese Class D amp it looks like a good option. I've heard Dali Zensors and Spektors and they were fun speakers, good luck with the Oberons.
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Mar 11, 2021 08:36
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LODGE NORTH posted:Should I be looking into headphone amps if I’m after small, basic setup stuff? Some are a bit more expensive than others (some labeled portable are like $30 but desktop ones are like $100). Ok Comboomer posted:A headphone amp/pre is exactly what I’d recommend. Schiit audio is my go-to brand (Magni 3+ or Magni Heresy is probably what you want, maybe paired with a Sys and/or Modi for your inputs if you desire) but the rest are good too. I’d just stick the headamp in the chain right before the A2+ if you don’t want to rip out and replace the RCA splitter thing. It’ll also give you a nifty volume control for the speakers. Just to come back to this, do I need or should I have any desire to get a really nice one? The Magnis are exceptionally nice, reviews say they're great, and it looks like if you buy from Schitt, they have amazing support. But my end goal is just to have support for headphones in my retro gaming setup while somehow, someway maintaining speaker audio when I need it and not having to futz with any cables. So it makes me wonder, is the $100 price tag worth it for a headphone amp or would one of the cheaper, uniform (like Monoprice) ones serve the same purpose?
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Mar 11, 2021 08:50
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wrong thread
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Mar 12, 2021 05:35
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Is there any benefit of sending all channels to the LFE channel using the Matrix setting on the MiniDSP, over setting the denon AVR to LFE+Main? It's the same thing right? I'm using dual subs so I guess I could have L+SL+RL to Sub 1, and R+SR+RR to Sub 2?
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Mar 12, 2021 21:18
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The miniDSP can set really steep crossover filters which can be advantageous if you have a room node close to 80 Hz. Outside of that possible situation, there really shouldn't be any practical difference between doing it one way or the other.
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Mar 12, 2021 21:31
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I think there may be a difference if you're playing multichannel encoded stuff like Dolby Digital since I believe that LFE is it's own channel. If you're playing regular stereo music or a soundtrack that doesn't have a separate channel like that it probably doesn't make a difference.
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Mar 13, 2021 04:23
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Gf spilled some air freshener poo poo into the remote for my receiver. LED still blinks but receiver doesn't pick it up. I managed to connect the thing to wifi just now using the face buttons and that was fun. Googling replacement remote for onkyo didn't even turn up anything from the official site, I'm about to manually scour now. No visible screws on the thing to take it apart, I'm gonna try and pry it apart somehow now. Any suggestions here or experience with getting replacement remotes from the company?
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Mar 16, 2021 01:14
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codo27 posted:Gf spilled some air freshener poo poo into the remote for my receiver. LED still blinks but receiver doesn't pick it up. I managed to connect the thing to wifi just now using the face buttons and that was fun. Googling replacement remote for onkyo didn't even turn up anything from the official site, I'm about to manually scour now. No visible screws on the thing to take it apart, I'm gonna try and pry it apart somehow now. Any suggestions here or experience with getting replacement remotes from the company? worst case Ontario an inexpensive universal remote or generic learning receiver remote should do the job Heck, you could get into Logitech Harmony if you wanted to
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Mar 16, 2021 01:29
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codo27 posted:Gf spilled some air freshener poo poo into the remote for my receiver. LED still blinks but receiver doesn't pick it up. I managed to connect the thing to wifi just now using the face buttons and that was fun. Googling replacement remote for onkyo didn't even turn up anything from the official site, I'm about to manually scour now. No visible screws on the thing to take it apart, I'm gonna try and pry it apart somehow now. Any suggestions here or experience with getting replacement remotes from the company? How recent was the spill? Getting it into a bag of desiccant or rice could dry it out enough that it might still work.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:35
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Nah it was weeks ago now. She says it worked after it happened but its poo poo the bed lately. Everything is CEC and turns on at once and volume control and all that but for certain things its a torment.
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Mar 16, 2021 02:58
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codo27 posted:Gf spilled some air freshener poo poo into the remote for my receiver. LED still blinks but receiver doesn't pick it up. I managed to connect the thing to wifi just now using the face buttons and that was fun. Googling replacement remote for onkyo didn't even turn up anything from the official site, I'm about to manually scour now. No visible screws on the thing to take it apart, I'm gonna try and pry it apart somehow now. Any suggestions here or experience with getting replacement remotes from the company? eBay.
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Mar 16, 2021 08:20
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BigFactory posted:How recent was the spill? Getting it into a bag of desiccant or rice could dry it out enough that it might still work. Bad advice!
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Mar 16, 2021 10:57
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https://www.walmart.com/ip/OEM-Onkyo-Remote-Control-Originally-Shipped-With-tx-nr676-txnr676/316674084 https://www.amazon.com/Receiver-TX-NR555-TX-NR656-TX-NR757-TX-RZ610/dp/B07M6LP2PF/ref=asc_df_B07M6LP2PF/
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Mar 16, 2021 11:24
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LRADIKAL posted:Bad advice! It couldn’t make it any worse?
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Mar 16, 2021 11:55
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If you have the receiver on your network, until you get a replacement remote there's a phone app that will cover all the functionality at least. I use it when I'm in Zone 2 and it works pretty well.
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Mar 16, 2021 17:34
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I'm doing that yeah. But I just redid the living room and I thought I had it connected via ethernet but its a bit of a disaster back there and I wasn't pulling it out to gently caress with it so I connected to wifi using the 3 buttons on the face and that was a nightmare. But I did it.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:11
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As I just upgraded from a pair of JBL 306P MKII's to full surround sound, I was wondering what to do with the JBL's. I was thinking of using them for atmos but as I only have 2 of them, I'm not sure if 5.1.2 would be worth it. I could buy 2 more JBL's but that seems like a waste of funds. I could buy a 4 set of other speakers for atmos but anything worthwhile costs more than 2 more JBL's If my seating area wasn't against a wall I'd use them for rear speakers.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:36
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BigFactory posted:It couldn’t make it any worse? Well instead of wasting rice, one could warm and or air dry the soaked device, or open it up and rinse it with isopropyl or something.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:51
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I've been pulling old audio gear out of storage and trying to get it fixed but the cost is higher than buying new stuff. The authorized NAD repair center wanted about $500 to fix my NAD D1050 DAC. $250 for a new PCB $150 labor $55 freight (for a tiny DAC that I shipped to them for $11?) $15 material (they are charging me $15 for a box on top of the $55 for freight?) $31 tax $500 is the brand new price I paid Crutchfield in 2013 for it. I could buy 2 D1050 on ebay and have change left over for $500. So I'm having them scrap it but I'm out my $65 diagnosis fee. I wanted to ship my broken active speakers B&W MM-1 and KEF LSX for repair but I'm now not sure I want to pay for shipping because the cost of repairing the power supply/amp may dwarf their value. Having both the B&W and KEF die just out of warranty has me totally sworn off active speakers other than subs. Yuns fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 01:25
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Yuns posted:I've been pulling old audio gear out of storage and trying to get it fixed but the cost is higher than buying new stuff. The authorized NAD repair center wanted about $500 to fix my NAD D1050 DAC. Any hifi dealer should be able to get you spare parts for these, or you can get them on eBay or directly from the manufacturer. As you see from your quote, they don't even "repair" things, they just swap out the PCB. You can do that yourself if you know the correct end of a screwdriver.
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Mar 17, 2021 11:19
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Yeah, and I would also reach out to both KEF and B/W
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Mar 17, 2021 11:40
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evobatman posted:As you see from your quote, they don't even "repair" things, they just swap out the PCB. This is the standard way they treat stuff these days sadly, just junk what's in the device entirely and install a new one. Downside is you end up paying more because the whole thing gets changed, the upside is the product is essentially new again so should be good to go for a bunch more years. Work had to send a temperamental powered PA speaker back to Sennheiser, the thing is £2500 new and crapped out fairly quickly. Due to being a business, warranty on the stuff isn't the same, sensible length of time that consumers get. The repair bill was £600 and they just gutted it entirely of electronic components and stuffed new ones in. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 14:03
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Does anyone know of any decent Bluetooth speakers that can be connected to a computer with usb and that also have a microphone, so that they can be used for video conferencing as well as playing music? I was looking at the jabra speakerphones but the last review I read said that the music quality wasn't too great. Does what I'm looking for exist, or should I just get a jbl charge 4 and a regular microphone?
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Mar 21, 2021 06:46
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A weird thing happened to my Denon this morning. I was watching aquaman and in that scene he lifts the sub the Denon power cycled and the amazon firestick backed out of the movie to the Home page. It's weird because I have it set to preamp mode to external amps so it shouldn't be a power draw issue? Only thing I can think of is 2 speaker cables touched during high vibration? [edit] I have a thermal probe directly above the Denon and it wasn't over 25c/77f
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Mar 21, 2021 16:34
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Ak Gara posted:A weird thing happened to my Denon this morning. I was watching aquaman and in that scene he lifts the sub the Denon power cycled and the amazon firestick backed out of the movie to the Home page. Can you make it happen again?
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Mar 22, 2021 10:56
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I made sure no speaker cables are loose but I did notice a HDMI cable that I left unplugged from the TV (still plugged into the AVR) was touching a metal radiator. (that's set to always off) I don't know if that would effect anything but it didn't do it on that scene a second time.
Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 22, 2021 16:19
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I'm renovating my battlestation a bit, I want to get my desk completely clear as much as absolutely possible. I'm gonna get a gas arm for my monitor, a gas arm for my microphone, and a wireless keyboard and mouse. Eventually I will run cables in the walls and it will be great. headphones are the exception though (and maybe a wireless charging cradle for my phone, don't see a good way around that one either). For various reasons I am completely not interested in going down the wireless route for headphones, and I want to keep the monitor's headphone output free (I use the speakers for office-work beeps and boops, and it's a pain to get back behind it to plug and unplug). I also kind of would like to get a real XLR mic instead of a lovely Blue Snowball or whatever that break every couple years. anyway, to make a short story long, I need an XLR input and a headphone output. Obviously that raises the idea of an audio interface, but I am reading that the headphone amp quality in them is usually not great (it's basically a monitor for recording, not focused on amazing quality). The Motu M2 seems to come out as one of the best options there. The other way I can go is to just use an adapter that turns XLR straight into USB, like Shure X2U, and then use whatever for a headphone amp. But that also makes the mics pretty long... which I guess isn't a huge problem if I go over the top of the monitor pointing down? Then I can just get whatever headphone amp and separate the concerns here. I don't mind going either route really, I'll get some 3m mounting tape and stick it on the wall behind the monitor. I do have a strong preference for USB powered as opposed to something that needs its own power cable though. I'm kinda vaguely tilting towards the XLR-to-USB adapter route? That would also make it easier to get a headphone amp that has controls on the "top" instead of the front, which would then be facing me when I tape it onto the wall. Not essential but a nice side effect. As far as my headphones, I have a pair of AKG K7XX that I need to repair, and right now I'm using a Superlux HD668B. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 00:22
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Those MOTU interfaces are quite good from everything I’ve read.
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Mar 24, 2021 01:11
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I'm currently using a 15 meter RCA cable to my subwoofer, and am worried that's too long for RCA so was thinking of swapping to balanced XLR. This would that mean to keep it level matched I would need to turn down the sub's gain, right? I think it would be going from 0.9v RCA to 4v XLR. [edit]OR, I could replace all the cables with balanced XLR!
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Mar 24, 2021 13:48
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If you’re already running it unbalanced and it’s working without a “hum,” then I predict absolutely no improvement if you switch to balanced. Good shielded cable can cleanly carry an unbalanced signal surprisingly far. If you want to do it because it makes you happy, go for it.
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Mar 24, 2021 14:02
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Hey all, I need an interface and am looking for the cheapest option that’ll connect everything blow and add some sound quality. I’d prefer to spend 50ish but if the 100 dollar version makes sense I can make it happen. I have the following: Klipsch r-15pm powered monitor speakers Beyerdynamic dt 990 pro Blue yeti friend is sending (dunno the model) What should I snag for gaming with friends and listening to music both on headphones and on the speakers?
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Mar 24, 2021 15:43
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Connecting to PC?
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Mar 24, 2021 17:06
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codo27 posted:Connecting to PC? Yes, sorry to include that
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Mar 24, 2021 17:32
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If you're just doing gaming do you need an interface really? I have one for recording, but thats for recording. My board has a separate audio chip (EVGA Nu audio) for the front case ports and they are much better and louder than the rear audio ports. I have those same monitors and have them connected by USB. Everything sounds good. If your phones aren't being driven to full potential by the ports you have then yes, have a look at a USB DAC. You dont gotta spend a lot here.
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Mar 24, 2021 18:03
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blue yeti is USB, but blue yeti pro has an XLR output (as well as USB). in my experience blue's hardware doesn't last forever, I've broken a blue yeti and a blue snowball over about 8 years, they start to glitch out and just stop having audio input after a couple years. they're fine up until that happens though. if you see yourself going to a true XLR mic then yeah you need an audio interface, or at least something like the Shure X2U that has an ADC to convert XLR to a digital USB signal. as I said in my comment a couple things back, a lot of audio interfaces don't have particularly good headphone outputs. they are meant for performers who want a headphone output as they perform, they're not intended to be super high audio quality. If you really want an audio interface then that Motu M2 is apparently in a class of its own at the moment. if you separate the two you have more flexibility on how you want to do both components. Just a plain old DAC/amp (you need the amp part too, a DAC is just a line level signal and won't drive headphones) gives you a lot of options, and you can go with something like the Shure X2U.
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Mar 24, 2021 18:11
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codo27 posted:If you're just doing gaming do you need an interface really? I have one for recording, but thats for recording. My board has a separate audio chip (EVGA Nu audio) for the front case ports and they are much better and louder than the rear audio ports. I have those same monitors and have them connected by USB. Everything sounds good. I currently have no analog volume control and it’s more of an annoyance than a problem so I wanted to kill these tiny birds with one stone. I think a cheap usb Dac should resolve all my issues and add a little bit of quality, but I’ll sit on it and think if I even need it. Thanks for the help everyone!
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Mar 24, 2021 19:16
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Veskit posted:add a little bit of quality Quality isn't really something you can add to in this situation. Either it works correctly or it doesn't.
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Mar 24, 2021 21:06
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Veskit posted:I currently have no analog volume control and it’s more of an annoyance than a problem so I wanted to kill these tiny birds with one stone. Both mechanical keyboards (and the lovely ones I've had before) I've owned have had the volume wheel. Wouldn't find myself without it.
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Mar 24, 2021 22:49
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