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NewFatMike posted:Ambrose, was it you who was planning on that CAD thread? literally been keeping a low profile from this thread b/c its been languishing on my to-do list, lmao
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Mar 17, 2021 20:31
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HOLY poo poo YOU GUYS IT WORKED I measured it out and made a model, meshed, sliced, and printed it and everything miraculously fit the first time.  The screw hole was just right. Thanks, Sagebrush, your advice was spot on!  Here's what it looks like when it's put in the right side up and connected to the hinge. https://i.imgur.com/nGZ0n7N.mp4 I've had this g-dang desk for 8 years and I broke the hinge on the first day by screwing the bracket in upside down. Since then I've tried holding the door together with duct tape and I even looked on the Ikea website for replacement parts (and was stonewalled by their customer service). Now it finally swings properly and doesn't catch on the bottom edge. Let's hope this one lasts a long time.  This is the most useful thing I've done in six months. I'm blown away at how well it works. I'm gonna go around the house and 3d print all kinds of unnecessary poo poo    Also I tried printing the legos again after cleaning the sheet. I think the adhesion was slightly better because the curling wasn't as bad, but it was still enough to cause the pieces to detach early. I made the bottom of the bracket completely filled in, hoping that it wouldn't come off the sheet but as you can see in these pictures it still did. I'd rather not use the gluestick so I ordered a smooth sheet and it should be here in a week or so.
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Mar 17, 2021 20:54
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A brim can help with edge adhesion in the meantime.
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Mar 17, 2021 20:57
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Cory Parsnipson posted:This is the most useful thing I've done in six months. I'm blown away at how well it works. Nice! Looks good. Fixing things is the best feeling in the world IMO. And if it breaks again, who cares because you still have the file and will until the end of time and can just print another one in half an hour!
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Mar 17, 2021 21:01
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I was pretty excited when I designed replacement stakes for my low voltage landscape lighting. The originals were made out of some sort of plastic that just fell apart after a year or so in the ground. I couldn't find anywhere to buy them, and such things are not standardized. So I set down with calipers, my last remaining original stake, and Fusion 360. After watching some basic tutorial videos I was able to recreate the stakes and even improve the design (at least IMHO). I also modified the design to be able to print easily without supports. The PLA+ printed stakes have already lasted longer in the ground than the originals. All 16 of my lights are using my printed replacements.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:13
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Cory Parsnipson posted:I'd rather not use the gluestick so I ordered a smooth sheet and it should be here in a week or so. So, you'd skip the instant $2 solution and spend $40 and wait a week? I mean, I got a pretty well sorted printer, but first hint of adhesion problems, I'm smearing that gluestick on and then address the underlying issue once I have lull in printing.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:18
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Cory Parsnipson posted:I measured it out and made a model, meshed, sliced, and printed it and everything miraculously fit the first time. It's a  feeling when this happens, nice
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Mar 17, 2021 21:28
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That success post made me think that I should design a chain guard for my bike asap. Only a matter of time before I ruin my trousers. Brims solved all adhesion issues on small parts in PLA for me. TPU is the only one that likes to "curl" it seems, but that was a for a big box thing. The octopus I printed came out near perfect.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:29
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, you'd skip the instant $2 solution and spend $40 and wait a week? Instant, but messy 
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Mar 17, 2021 21:30
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Ambrose Burnside posted:literally been keeping a low profile from this thread b/c its been languishing on my to-do list, lmao Ha! If you just want to put something drafty out there, it'll at least be a good place to point folks for discussion even if the OP isn't a full wiki like some threads.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:36
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, you'd skip the instant $2 solution and spend $40 and wait a week? It's clean I don't wanna put a gluestick on it  I was going to try and print PETG eventually so I thought I'd use the smooth one for PLA and the textured one for PETG.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:37
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Gluestick washes off near instantly with hot water and soap. It's the easiest and simplest solution and will not harm your print surface one bit.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:44
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Oh. Hmmm. How often are you supposed to reapply it? Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 21:46
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Gluestick washes off near instantly with hot water and soap. It's the easiest and simplest solution and will not harm your print surface one bit. Hell I don't even use soap and water... This: https://www.amazon.com/Sprayway-Glass-Cleaner-15-Ounce/dp/B07K1ZD36P Works great for cleaning off Elmers gluestick. I keep it and a roll of paper towels by the printer at all times. But I am a bit "old fashioned" in a way, as I still print on glass, not any of these new fangled print surfaces.
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Mar 17, 2021 21:52
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Cory Parsnipson posted:HOLY poo poo YOU GUYS IT WORKED The Eyes Have It posted:Instant, but messy
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Mar 17, 2021 21:58
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stevewm posted:I was pretty excited when I designed replacement stakes for my low voltage landscape lighting. OMG that's a great idea. My wife will be so happy if I fixed and redeployed the pile of solar lights that we keep around for spare parts.
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Mar 17, 2021 22:05
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What's the best upgrade path for the ender 3 buoldplate of I want to do Petg? Right now I have the heated glass bed, but obviously printing on that directly is a bad move. Do I get a buildtak flexible sheet or something like that?
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Mar 17, 2021 22:26
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w00tmonger posted:What's the best upgrade path for the ender 3 buoldplate of I want to do Petg? I'm not sure what the best is for petg, but I've had good luck with regular flat glass and a lot of glue stick. PETG can be kind of a pain in the rear end but a thicker than normal spread of glue seems to help it stick and stay but also release later. I have also read that blue painter's tape is good for PETG but haven't tried it myself. Matterhackers suggests those as well as PEI or even buildtak: https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament#D1
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Mar 17, 2021 22:41
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The Eyes Have It posted:Instant, but messy I also used to be recalcitrant about using glue. I considered it messy and had the attitude that well the printer should work without it so I will continue to stubbornly try to make it work. Later I got totally sick of messing with the machines and having prints fail so now I just put glue down any time I'm concerned about the print geometry or anything. With the magnetic build plates it's trivial to wash the glue off if you need to. It's water-soluble. Cory Parsnipson posted:Oh. Hmmm. How often are you supposed to reapply it? Sometimes taking a print off the bed will peel the glue away with it. You can touch up those spots with the glue stick before the next print. If I were using glue for every print, I'd reapply it when it quit working or when it started to look scummy. Maybe every 10 jobs or so. PEI + PLA + glue provides more adhesion than a bare bed. The glue acts as a glue to keep the part stuck. PEI + PETG + glue provides less adhesion than a bare bed. The glue acts as a separation layer to prevent the print from bonding too strongly. You decide whether you need to use the glue in either situation based on the amount of adhesion you're getting.
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Mar 17, 2021 22:52
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Thanks! Well, I guess I'll just try everything and see what works for me.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:25
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Petition to have someone design a gluestick head for the prusa XL tool changer when that comes out, and custom gcode that applies it only on the bed where the print will be. Knocked out some washer/spacers for a free IKEA armchair my wife picked up, drew them in tinkercad, sliced and printed during a conference call. I love living in the future sometimes.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:26
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What is the stock surface that comes with an Ender 3, incidentally? Is it PEI? Smooth or textured?
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Mar 17, 2021 23:29
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Sagebrush posted:What is the stock surface that comes with an Ender 3, incidentally? Is it PEI? Smooth or textured? It depends what version you get. My basic Ender 3 had a kind of thick soft buildtak surface that was a bit weird. It was soft enough that it would pull up on corners and I'd get warped prints due to the surface lifting up off the bed since the binder clips weren't enough. I'm not sure if they come with that now on any model, but I believe the Ender 3 v2 has the creality textured glass surface which has some stuff on it (supposedly Carborundum which is silicon carbide) that holds PLA down well as long as it's clean. I bought that for mine and liked it so much I got the CR-10 sized one for my Sunlu S8 as well. The Ender 3 Pro has a magnetic sheet but I haven't used it myself. The surface looks like its textured.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:40
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cakesmith handyman posted:Knocked out some washer/spacers for a free IKEA armchair my wife picked up, drew them in tinkercad, sliced and printed during a conference call. I love living in the future sometimes. Nice  Ikea Repair Team ASSEMBLE
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Mar 17, 2021 23:52
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cakesmith handyman posted:Petition to have someone design a gluestick head for the prusa XL tool changer when that comes out, and custom gcode that applies it only on the bed where the print will be. That's pretty loving smart, not gonna lie. Especially if you're going to do PC and other stuff.
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Mar 18, 2021 00:08
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Thanks! Well, I guess I'll just try everything and see what works for me. The big thing is that you're really going to regret it if you do a long print and have it pop loose or warp at hour twenty or something. I never have adhesion issues and I still smear glue all over my bed for any print that's longer than a few hours. It's just not worth the pain.
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Mar 18, 2021 02:50
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NewFatMike posted:Ha! If you just want to put something drafty out there, it'll at least be a good place to point folks for discussion even if the OP isn't a full wiki like some threads. yeah i keep trying to at least do a decent intro paragraph or overview but idk what'd be useful as an intro point, also i cant really write a comprehensive anything b/c i only know my little mechanical CAD world. gently caress it, i can make the bad-form empty OP thread now and then populate it with effortposts from the thread over time, gimme a sec
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Mar 18, 2021 03:04
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yeah ok it's done https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ BIG CAD THREAD, ALL THE CAD CONTENT, EVENTUALLY, CHECK IT OUT
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Mar 18, 2021 04:41
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I just used BedWeld for the first time after many many many spools of ABS over the past few years. I've been trying to really keep the edges flat, and aside from the normal temperature tuning in my enclosure I've also done dozens and dozens of test prints with aquanet or abs slurry on glass but nothing was perfect. Last night I printed a big heavy abs print that failed every previous attempt to stay flat with bedweld for the first time and it is insanely perfectly flat at every corner, and released itself from the bed once cool.
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Mar 18, 2021 05:10
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Can anyone with a Prusa (this is an MK2) tell me if the sort of knocking sound it's making in this clip is normal? I'm getting what seems to be some under-extrusion, but if I slow it down it goes away so wondering if the extruder is having trouble keeping up? https://photos.app.goo.gl/eRZXoNdQZj3Him5FA
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Mar 18, 2021 05:43
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Yeah, that sounds like the extruder skipping steps to me. Lightly grab the filament close to the inlet while it's printing, or rest a finger on the extruder body, and you'll probably be able to feel the clicks. That happens because, in order of likelihood: - the extrusion temperature is set wrong (or the wrong material is loaded) - the nozzle is partly clogged - the thermistor is broken - the extruder stepper driver is overheating - the extruder motor or heater block are broken. Double check all the temperatures and then consider replacing the nozzle, imo.
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Mar 18, 2021 06:17
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah, that sounds like the extruder skipping steps to me. Lightly grab the filament close to the inlet while it's printing, or rest a finger on the extruder body, and you'll probably be able to feel the clicks. I tried cranking the temp up a little after I posted, and that seemed to clear the visible problem, but still getting the sound some. Couldn't really feel the clicks, and the filament doesn't visibly move like I'd seen in a few videos of the problem. I ordered some nozzles just to try that. Thanks!
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Mar 18, 2021 06:31
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I’ve had really good luck with PLA and a PEI sheet on piece of glass on my ender 3. Am I not supposed to be having good results?
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Mar 18, 2021 07:25
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Boner Wad posted:I’ve had really good luck with PLA and a PEI sheet on piece of glass on my ender 3. Am I not supposed to be having good results? PLA will print on just about anything.
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Mar 18, 2021 08:53
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Seems like the appropriate page, anyone know of a good website or artist to find some relics or artifacts from anything paranormal to lovecraftian? Just looking for some cool stuff for the shelf. 
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Mar 18, 2021 10:12
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Seems like the appropriate page, anyone know of a good website or artist to find some relics or artifacts from anything paranormal to lovecraftian? A bunch of museums have high-resolution 3d scans of various artifacts, one of my first prints was a to-scale copy of an ancient Sumerian roller seal that was used to sign and tamper-proof private cuneiform clay ‘letters’. don’t remember where I found that one but Googling “museum 3d scan free” or w/e should get you plenty if you want more macabre, the NIH has a free 3d model repository (https://3dprint.nih.gov/ ) that includes historical medical curiosities and things of note(Phineas Gage’s perforated skull, anybody?) as well as lots of modern educational scans of Remarkable Injuries and Improbable Teratomas and so on
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Mar 18, 2021 16:10
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Boner Wad posted:I’ve had really good luck with PLA and a PEI sheet on piece of glass on my ender 3. Am I not supposed to be having good results? I was having lots of warping issues on my E3 with the magnetic bed. At first I reduced the bed temp and it helped a bit but I later replaced it with glass and now everything comes out perfect. Chernabog fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 16:35
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pbpancho posted:I tried cranking the temp up a little after I posted, and that seemed to clear the visible problem, but still getting the sound some. Couldn't really feel the clicks, and the filament doesn't visibly move like I'd seen in a few videos of the problem. I ordered some nozzles just to try that. Thanks! How is your z adjustment? You can also get clogs if the nozzle is too low but not so low that it impacts. That means the filament can back up over time and start causing the clicking.
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Mar 18, 2021 18:06
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pbpancho posted:I tried cranking the temp up a little after I posted, and that seemed to clear the visible problem, but still getting the sound some. Couldn't really feel the clicks, and the filament doesn't visibly move like I'd seen in a few videos of the problem. I ordered some nozzles just to try that. Thanks! When was your last cold pull?
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Mar 18, 2021 19:19
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Doctor Zero posted:How is your z adjustment? You can also get clogs if the nozzle is too low but not so low that it impacts. That means the filament can back up over time and start causing the clicking. I've got that pretty dialed in by slowing the print down, otherwise the underextrusion was making it tough. NewFatMike posted:When was your last cold pull? Haven't done one. Just bought this used last week. Will give it a shot though!
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Mar 18, 2021 19:32
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