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Biowarfare posted:What's the cheapest thing that can do BGP with about 400 peers and not be terrible at it? Was considering a mikrotik. I'd be interested to know more about your home networking use case for BGP with 400 peers 
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Mar 13, 2021 15:08
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Biowarfare posted:What's the cheapest thing that can do BGP with about 400 peers and not be terrible at it? Was considering a mikrotik. Real question is what size tables per peer? We talking about 400 full tables or 400 default routes? How often do peers come and go?
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Mar 13, 2021 15:59
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SamDabbers posted:I'd be interested to know more about your home networking use case for BGP with 400 peers incredibly stupid, but it's cheaper for me to announce a /24 instead of pay $30-50/m/IP for my NAS, gameserver/homelab VMs, plex server, etc H110Hawk posted:Real question is what size tables per peer? We talking about 400 full tables or 400 default routes? How often do peers come and go? peers are largely stable, 1-2 fulltable and rest just announce their own customer prefixes
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Mar 14, 2021 04:46
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Biowarfare posted:incredibly stupid ... announce a /24 instead of pay $30-50/m/IP for my NAS, gameserver/homelab VMs, plex server, etc you are aware of NAT, right these things not only can exist without their own publically routable IPs, they shouldn't get publically routable IPs lol
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Mar 14, 2021 04:52
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Biowarfare posted:incredibly stupid, but it's cheaper for me to announce a /24 instead of pay $30-50/m/IP for my NAS, gameserver/homelab VMs, plex server, etc With 2 full tables you're going to be above the few hundred bucks mark I imagine. What sort of ports do you need? Ignore these haters. Stable 2 tables with ports handled elsewhere it's just a function of ram. What's your budget other than "cheapest"?
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Mar 14, 2021 05:05
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probably in the 300-400 range - i have a few meraki items that are about to go unlicenced at the end of the year and i figure i could replace some things since the licence fee is way out of my not-enterprise budget. the bgp part is partially for homelabbing/learning in a not-lab environment, and i have very strict prefix filters to not leak routes anyway that take priority. re: nat - yeah i know. i host stuff for friends, back up my colos/side projects, run a couple of gameservers from the bedroom closet.
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Mar 14, 2021 05:44
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Biowarfare posted:re: nat - yeah i know. i host stuff for friends, back up my colos/side projects, run a couple of gameservers from the bedroom closet. it's not even that, it sjust the other things you listed like homelab and intranetty assets. i know you know what a nat is its just .... gently caress i hate condoms too but the internet is a hard limit. i at least want some single gateway instead of going full bareback with my devices to their own respective security and update status
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Mar 14, 2021 05:49
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Quick question about setting up mesh networks at home: Can I "add on" mesh wifi satellites or do I need to purchase the whole set one shot? I'll be moving to a new house soon which will probably need at least 3 of them. So I thought I'd buy like a couple now to get a grip on the setup, and to improve the connection here. Then I'll move them over to the new place and get more satellites as needed. I've never used mesh before (one wifi was sufficient previously), so I'm sorry if this is a silly question and if the terms I use are wrong. If it helps, I will be using Shopee Malaysia, and am specifically looking at the TP Link Deco E4 or M4 because I've found videos of people saying they use those for my network provider. In my head, I can buy a 2 pack now and then buy the same 2 pack again down the line to get more satellites.
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Mar 14, 2021 09:14
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Artelier posted:Quick question about setting up mesh networks at home: Can I "add on" mesh wifi satellites or do I need to purchase the whole set one shot? Yes with a few rare exceptions like the Orbi RBK50 which uses a dedicated backhaul bandwidth that only works with two nodes. They do have some recommended limitations though. Most home mesh system recommend no more than 2 hops away from the base unit and enterprise devices like Cisco say no more than 3. They also have max nodes per system. Linksys recommends a Max of 10 in a purely wifi backhaul network but caps at 32 nodes for the controller. Cyks fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Mar 14, 2021 |
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Mar 14, 2021 14:31
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Cyks posted:Yes with a few rare exceptions like the Orbi RBK50 which uses a dedicated backhaul bandwidth that only works with two nodes. I think you may be thinking of another Orbi kit. I run the RBK50 with 3 nodes and have had as many as 5 setup. 
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Mar 14, 2021 15:25
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rufius posted:I think you may be thinking of another Orbi kit. I run the RBK50 with 3 nodes and have had as many as 5 setup. Nope, looks like I was just going off bad information and confusion on my part based off an old review. It looks like daisy chaining was introduced recently to the system according to https://blog.netgear.com/blog/daisy-chain/ but multiple nodes support has been around longer. Good to know.
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Mar 14, 2021 18:34
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Also, there's a guy named Voxel who went and cleaned up NetGear's RBK50 firmware with his own version, which can be interchangeably switched with the official NetGear firmware. His firmware provides faster SAMBA, faster OpenVPN, faster FTP, more secure DNSCrypt, adds a dropbear SSH server, and has more updated OpenWRT commands, the ability to install entware to provide web server support in the router, and other various gizmos and enhancements over stock NetGear. I use it on a lovely two-node system and it works great..
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Mar 14, 2021 20:00
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Folks, I have an network mystery that I'm sure only random people on the forums can help me out with. I have a gateway router from my ISP. I recently bought another router to act as an access point (Archer c2300?) because the apartment is big and the other option was running a Coax to the middle of the apt (for central wifi and to act as a switch). I buy cheap 5e network cables, and I have to return one because a 50' cable I picked from amazon was DOA. Our service is rated at 500 Mbs from the ISP. A computer on the network connected to the router directly receives 700 Mbs. My computer over wifi and through 2 walls picks up 370 Mbs. My computer wired Gateway Router > Archer > Computer picks up 90 Mbs. I've been fiddling with the settings on the admin panels to try and figure out what the issue could be. All my cables are pretty cheap but they're still rated 5e, which should be more than enough for our service. I'm at my wits' end. E: My wifi connection to the AP is 500 Mbs so it's my ethernet cable to the AP being fucky. Thanks ! EE: I am 99% sure they sold us CAT 5 cables labled cat 5e trying the second and capping out at 100 Mbs Toalpaz fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 23:30
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Alright team I ended up getting a mikrotik hex s (RB760iGS) because ER-X was out of stock everywhere, I just noticed it has a "PoE" out port. I am wondering if any of the poe experts in here know if that will power a unifi UAP-AC-M or should I just play it safe and use the ubiquiti injector? Relevant information: - UAP states it uses "Gigabit 802.3af PoE" - UAP injector currently in use is 24v 0.5A -hex has a 24v wall wart included -hex can run on 802.3af/at or "passive" poe -hex can output "Passive PoE up to 57V" at a max of 0.5A from what little reading I have done it seems like the unifi is actually more standards compliant, is that right? Comedy option: power the mikrotic from the unifi injector and UAP from the mikrotik??
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Mar 16, 2021 00:41
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bobbilljim posted:Alright team I ended up getting a mikrotik hex s (RB760iGS) because ER-X was out of stock everywhere, I just noticed it has a "PoE" out port. I am wondering if any of the poe experts in here know if that will power a unifi UAP-AC-M or should I just play it safe and use the ubiquiti injector? According to the datasheet the UAP-AC-M can use passive 24V PoE: https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/unifi/UniFi_AC_Mesh_DS.pdf So you can probably power it from the mikrotik's PoE port, but I don't know if your current injector will supply enough current to handle both devices. I'd expect it to want at least 24V 1A input into the mikrotik if it's going to both have enough current for itself and another device that may require 0.5A.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:32
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Cool thanks, the included psu for the mikrotik is 1.2A so I might give it a shot
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Mar 16, 2021 01:50
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Toalpaz posted:Folks, I have an network mystery that I'm sure only random people on the forums can help me out with. In the future you can go to the status of your network adapter and it'll tell you the data rate. It's a quick way to tell what speed a single device is negotiating at with the switch, or for WiFi you can determine a lot about the capabilities from comparing it with the chart at mcsindex.com.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:59
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Toalpaz posted:Folks, I have an network mystery that I'm sure only random people on the forums can help me out with. It was only late last year that I realized my Internet speeds were getting hamstrung by a 100mbps cable between my modem and router. This was after months of low-key grumbling and half-assed troubleshooting on my part, so at least you're ahead of the game on that.
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Mar 16, 2021 02:21
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Question from my cousin:quote:Anybody I know smart in the topic of cable wiring? I’m literally certified in the networking part of things, but I’ve been stumped by this situation.
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Mar 17, 2021 00:50
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I don't really work with copper, but it's an outside, aerial, conductive cable coming into your home, so grounding it sounds like a good idea. It's a low risk scenario, but it's also a low effort remedy. You could probably just add a splitter and ground that. I'm not an electrician.
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Mar 17, 2021 05:17
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iirc there are some routers that are also sold with gigabit ports but a 100mbit only wan port
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Mar 17, 2021 06:52
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Also not an electrician but there are grounding blocks for coax - I think you'd just run the line through one of those, then run some wire from the connection point on that grounding block to the ground rod on the mains.
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Mar 17, 2021 16:49
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Eletriarnation posted:Also not an electrician but there are grounding blocks for coax - I think you'd just run the line through one of those, then run some wire from the connection point on that grounding block to the ground rod on the mains. The installers here just attached the little ground screw on first splitter which is just inside the house to the house ground.
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Mar 17, 2021 18:46
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I've been directed here! Quick question for y'alls; i got a combo cable modem/router from cox (isp) Netgear AC1900 C6300BD. I'm looking to drop my equipment rental fee by purchasing a cable modem for the house. I was briefly advised against cable modem/router combos. So what would be some good options? Anything to get me along the right tracks. It's a 4 bedroom house with some odd walls and hallways making wifi a bit spotty in the kitchen and room 4.
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Mar 18, 2021 06:32
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ShortyMR.CAT posted:I've been directed here! Quick question for y'alls; i got a combo cable modem/router from cox (isp) Netgear AC1900 C6300BD. What's your cable internet speed? Any ethernet ports around the house? How much ya willing to plunk down to improve the wifi situation?
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Mar 18, 2021 07:13
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Is there a cable tester available for mere mortals that'll test cables beyond just whether the pair is connected and not shorted, or not?
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Mar 18, 2021 10:52
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bolind posted:Is there a cable tester available for mere mortals that'll test cables beyond just whether the pair is connected and not shorted, or not? What do you want to know about the cable? I've found there's quite a gap in the market between what you describe, and 4-figure fancypants ones for pros (and I use one for work and even I can't justify that). I do have a cheap one that tells me the length, which is handy when installers promise me that they only ran 90m but they are mistaken.
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Mar 18, 2021 11:17
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Home networking thread seemed like a good fit for this question -- if it should be somewhere else, let me know. I haven't upgraded my cable modem in years. Right now I've got an Arris DG1670A, which is a DOCSIS 3.0 16x4. I didn't know about the channel parameters until I saw a 32x8 modem advertised. My current service is 500/50. I get every bit of that in speed tests, but from what I'm reading, I'm probably thresholding this poor modem. Would I see a difference in upgrading to a modern DOCSIS 3.1 32x8?
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Mar 18, 2021 15:37
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Home networking thread seemed like a good fit for this question -- if it should be somewhere else, let me know. Difference is hard to quantify. Will you max speed increase? No, that modem has a theoretical max of 686 Mbps. What additional channels help with is when the network is congested, like at 7PM at night when everyone is streaming, and heavily using broadband, is giving you more channels to access. Maybe you've noticed during peak hours your speed goes down to 300mbps or so, maybe not. Depends. Think of cable internet as a giant highway say 32 lanes across. Your current modem only allows you to access 16 of those lanes, which is probably just fine. If traffic gets really heavy on those 16 lanes though you might not be able to go as fast as possible though. Upgrading to a 32 channel modem will give you access to all 32 lanes and possibly lower congestion. If you're going to upgrade anyway, go for it. I don't think it'll make much of a difference in your day to day though unless you're noticing major speed issues. If you're node is stupid busy it might help a bit. This all is dependant on the cable plant/infrastructure supporting things on their end as well though. If you're on a older node that isn't upgraded to support 32 downstream channels, it won't matter. That would be an exception though, I think most providers finished the 3.1 upgrade a while ago.
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Mar 18, 2021 16:12
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skipdogg posted:Difference is hard to quantify. Will you max speed increase? No, that modem has a theoretical max of 686 Mbps. What additional channels help with is when the network is congested, like at 7PM at night when everyone is streaming, and heavily using broadband, is giving you more channels to access. Maybe you've noticed during peak hours your speed goes down to 300mbps or so, maybe not. Depends. Think of cable internet as a giant highway say 32 lanes across. Your current modem only allows you to access 16 of those lanes, which is probably just fine. If traffic gets really heavy on those 16 lanes though you might not be able to go as fast as possible though. Upgrading to a 32 channel modem will give you access to all 32 lanes and possibly lower congestion. That's exactly what I'm noticing -- a time of day issue. Interesting. Edit: Just ordered a Motorola MB8600. Hope that clears up the issue, thanks! meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 16:20
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Come back and let us know!
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Mar 18, 2021 16:29
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fletcher posted:What's your cable internet speed? Any ethernet ports around the house? How much ya willing to plunk down to improve the wifi situation? Im not currently home but ill edit that numbers in when i get a chance. No ethernet ports at all. Just few entry cable lines in the walls. (Modem is set up in my room currently) And uh I guess a few bux?
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Mar 18, 2021 18:55
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Biowarfare posted:What's the cheapest thing that can do BGP with about 400 peers and not be terrible at it? Was considering a mikrotik. Nooooooo. Don't go Mikrotik for serious BGP needs - it's a single threaded process, so will max out a single core (out of the 20+ available doing nothing) for like 20minutes trying to do updates and updating the RIB/FIB tables. Maybe CHR/x86 is faster, but there's some serious flaws when you go big with mikrotik. Look into Vyatta (vyos.io) and the like. Basically with that many peers (and not much packet pushing), CPU power is where it's at.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:38
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If I want to search for a local "dude/dudette to put ethernet in my walls at home", is there a better search term than "low voltage electrician"? Searching for data cables stuff in general is getting me mostly business that are clearly for commercial work, and anything for low voltage technician is coming up with general electricians
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Mar 18, 2021 19:41
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ShortyMR.CAT posted:Im not currently home but ill edit that numbers in when i get a chance. Based off what you have now it sounds like you have the preferred 150 package (150 down/10 up). From what you've said so far I'd probably just recommend going with a SB6183 modem and maybe something like the Deco m5 mesh system. It'll run around $230 total.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:46
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BaronVanAwesome posted:If I want to search for a local "dude/dudette to put ethernet in my walls at home", is there a better search term than "low voltage electrician"? Look for smart home automation companies, security camera installers, or moonlighting cable/dish installers. The big problem is, the trades are pretty busy right now, and no company is really going to want to deal with a small job, at least not at a fair price. Finding someone who wants to do this as a side job for cash money on the side might be easier. Try your local NextDoor app, or regional facebook group. When I looked at doing this 5 years ago I got 2 "no thanks, not interested in the job" and 1 absurdly high F-You quote. If you're willing to go at it yourself, you can grab the tools relatively inexpensively and do it yourself. It's not very difficult depending on how your house is laid out and where you want the cables to go. Even if you have to repair drywall it's not that big of a deal. Probably easier to hire someone for drywall repair than a cabling person right now.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:56
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skipdogg posted:Look for smart home automation companies, security camera installers, or moonlighting cable/dish installers. I actually bought a big fiberglass rod set deal and cable lengths that I think I'd need, but I've psyched myself out and am scared in general. Drywall drilling/repair I'm not worried about at all, and I have an unfinished basement to do horizontal bits, but the idea of figuring out drilling through fire blocks/floors and lining stuff up has me PARALYZED WITH FEAR!!!! I appreciate that tip on automation and security people though, didn't think of that. Maybe I should reconsider doing it myself.
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Mar 18, 2021 20:16
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bobbilljim posted:Alright team I ended up getting a mikrotik hex s (RB760iGS) because ER-X was out of stock everywhere, I just noticed it has a "PoE" out port. I am wondering if any of the poe experts in here know if that will power a unifi UAP-AC-M or should I just play it safe and use the ubiquiti injector? I too like you am finding it harder to get an ER-X and found someone local selling a ER-4 for about $160. It hasn't sold in a little while so I'm hoping to low ball him a little. My main concern is I do have symmetrical gigabit and while I don't think QoS is required I know with an ER-X it would have to be disabled. Would the ER-4 be able to run QoS at full gigabit?
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Mar 18, 2021 21:47
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Cyks posted:Based off what you have now it sounds like you have the preferred 150 package (150 down/10 up). From what you've said so far I'd probably just recommend going with a SB6183 modem and maybe something like the Deco m5 mesh system. It'll run around $230 total. Sounds doable in our part. Ill look into it when i get a chance thanks!
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Mar 18, 2021 21:49
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god this blows posted:Would the ER-4 be able to run QoS at full gigabit? No. I believe the ER-4 maxes out at around 400mb/s with QoS enabled. The UDM Pro is the cheapest Ubiquiti router that can do full gigabit on non-hardware offloaded (QoS, IDS/IPS) traffic.
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Mar 18, 2021 22:24
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