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A random musing, but years ago there was a company called Monsoon that made rather ornate fittings that came with a tool that you inserted into the collar of the compression fittings to twist them onto the barb. Shame they presumably went bust because it was a brilliant idea and I can't believe EK haven't ripped it off considering they had the foresight to make the inner part of their barbs hexagonal so you can tighten them up with a hex key.
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Mar 23, 2021 12:50
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I have alphacool eishand gloves just for tightening fittings without removing my fingerprints. I suppose any work gloves with rubbery layer would work.
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Mar 23, 2021 13:42
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Theophany posted:A random musing, but years ago there was a company called Monsoon that made rather ornate fittings that came with a tool that you inserted into the collar of the compression fittings to twist them onto the barb. Ya they suck with ZMT, I have them as part of my loop. In hindsight, I wish I didn’t. I too had some finger pain for a week or so after, it felt very similar to the injury I got when my thumb hyperextended during a cycling crash. Next loop cycle I plan to replace them.
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Mar 23, 2021 14:40
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Well, the dish soap thing let me get my loop put back together in half the time and a quarter the pain. I messed up on one part because I was rushing and took a shortcut, but I know how to fix that. I'm crossposting from the DIY wiring thread because this is mostly math checking and pointing out any bad assmptions but: I have an EK 3.2 DDC pump running off a 4-pin molex. Back of the napkin electronics math says a 12V pump consuming 18W of power should be drawing no more than 1.5A. My Aquacomputer Octo's 4-Pin PWM headers are rated for 12V 2A. Based on this, there should be no reason I couldn't repin the pump to run off just the Octo's PWM header, right?
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Mar 23, 2021 14:51
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Warmachine posted:Well, the dish soap thing let me get my loop put back together in half the time and a quarter the pain. I messed up on one part because I was rushing and took a shortcut, but I know how to fix that. Yeah, that math checks out; you can double-check the gauge of the wire you're using (you'll have some voltage drop) but 2 ADC is pretty typical for those 100 mil headers. How loud is that guy? I need to get off my rear end and keep ordering parts -- I think I've actually convinced myself that I should just go back to using a Vario D5. Are they all created equal more or less if they are from Xylem? I think I belatedly understand now... you can buy the pump "Core" itself, and then you can choose your top for it, based on whatever fittings / connections / etc you need? And then you pick a bracket, and done? I just want some kind of RGB-less top to go along with a dead nuts simple pump core.
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Mar 23, 2021 16:37
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movax posted:Yeah, that math checks out; you can double-check the gauge of the wire you're using (you'll have some voltage drop) but 2 ADC is pretty typical for those 100 mil headers. Vdrop should be pretty small. 50mV at the most extreme end (300mm of 22 AWG), and I'm overestimating the length of the leads on purpose. At max RPM it's very audible. I run mine at 1400 RPM and I don't notice it, but I also live on a major road so the ambient noise might mask things that could drive other folks up the walls. Mine is also an exterior pump. IceMan makes a specialized DDC pump-res combo for the Ncase M1 that mounts on the back of the rear 92mm fan mount, so there's no case to muffle the noise. Generally though, the loudest things in my case are the power supply fan (I don't wanna void the warranty on it to replace it with a noctua) and the moving air. Maybe some coil whine on a bad day, but the GPU inductors are pretty well insulated at this point. edit: I just emailed the folks at pslate customs to see if they carry 22-24 AWG silver wire. I don't think 18 AWG, which I suspect they use for the power supply cables, will fit in a 4 pin female PWM connector. I'd like these to match since they'll be exposed behind my case and frankly it'd look super slick. Warmachine fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Mar 23, 2021 17:28
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Warmachine posted:Yep, echoing what everyone else is saying: My Octo does virtual sensors just fine. I figured out my confusion: the virtual sensors that the Quadro/Octo can do require the Aquasuite software to be running on the host machine - the Aquaero doesn't, i.e., you can configure the sensors, it stores them on the device itself, then you can unplug it from the host machine and even use it in a completely different computer, without Aquasuite. This may or may not matter for your particular use case - for example, I use a Quadro to control the fans in my headless file/Plex/etc server. Not exactly something I can/want to run Aquasuite on, so it's kind of a bummer that the Quadro doesn't work like that. I have them control based on a couple of set points I tweaked based on harddrive temperatures/room temperature, so it's not a huge deal or anything, but I would be so much nicer to be able to do delta temperatures on the device itself.
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Mar 23, 2021 19:01
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forbidden dialectics posted:I figured out my confusion: the virtual sensors that the Quadro/Octo can do require the Aquasuite software to be running on the host machine - the Aquaero doesn't, i.e., you can configure the sensors, it stores them on the device itself, then you can unplug it from the host machine and even use it in a completely different computer, without Aquasuite. Huh. I'll have to take a look when I go back in. I haven't used my delta sensor yet since I'm still in the testing/refining phase. My screwup was in the liquid metal application so I need to correct that before I do anything else. Would rather not run with hot spots.
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Mar 23, 2021 19:11
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Warmachine posted:Vdrop should be pretty small. 50mV at the most extreme end (300mm of 22 AWG), and I'm overestimating the length of the leads on purpose. 18 AWG will be a tough crimp in those contacts for most families; even 20 can be pushing it for some (there are a few TE part numbers that work OK); I use Harwin M20s for most of my 100mil signaling wiring needs. Just found the Quadro in stock, and went with a Watercool D5 pump. Stocking my cart at EK now with fittings (Quantum HDC) and some acrylic tubing. Since my case has no windows, I’m just going matte black for all the fittings with gold / nickel rings to do inlet vs outlet at a glance. Now, just need a res — what’s the smallest one folks like to use with the biggest variety of brackets / options for mounting? Think I’ll place it right above the pump inlet.
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Mar 29, 2021 02:33
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movax posted:18 AWG will be a tough crimp in those contacts for most families; even 20 can be pushing it for some (there are a few TE part numbers that work OK); I use Harwin M20s for most of my 100mil signaling wiring needs. Why no pump/res combo?
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Mar 29, 2021 09:00
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AutismVaccine posted:Why no pump/res combo? I wasn't sure I'd be able to fit it somewhere, but as these things always go... after ordering the separate pump, I realize that the bottom 120 mm fan mount area in the Meshify C would probably have worked fine for something like this.  Bracket wise now, I'm thinking that little area in the rear of the case above the PCIe slots would probably work OK to place the res and have a decent amount of space to get a fill port into the top of it -- I need to dig up the picture of what I'm looking for there to figure out what kind of bracket would do the job. e: This area, what search terms / bracket would I get?  Bend out the bottom of that, run along bottom, right down to the pump. Would feed res inlet from the future GPU block. So overall, that would go res ->flow meter / temp sensor -> pump -> front rad -> top rad -> CPU block -> GPU block -> back to res... doesn't sound optimal to kick the warm coolant through the pump, but overall delta T should be small in tiny loops, right? Super easy fill like the pic, and maybe a QD / T fitting near the pump to use as the drain valve? Case will be mounted under my standing desk, so it's trivial to raise it up and pop a valve on the bottom to drain it. movax fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Mar 30, 2021 |
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Mar 29, 2021 16:20
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I got a weird question to ask. I bought a chassi with rads and everything already in place from someone. The thing is they were using nickel-plated copper tubing and it was an 7th gen intel ATX mobo, I'm gonna have my AMD x470 ATX system in there. And so my question is: will the cpu block be roughly in the same position as it was on the Intel build, or will I have to bend new copper pipes?
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Apr 3, 2021 13:25
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Passburger posted:I got a weird question to ask. Most likely you will have to bend new pipes, it isn't impossible for it to line up since CPUs are usually around the same area on all motherboards, but nickel plated copper tubing has very limited flexibility so unless it is within a 2-3 millimeters or about 0.1 inches in all directions you probably can't stretch it.
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Apr 3, 2021 13:33
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Indiana_Krom posted:words One can only hope, there are a bunch of fittings on both ends of the tubes too, so it might be doable. If not, I get to learn how to bend copper tubes! 
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Apr 3, 2021 19:39
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Lots of delivery trucks showed up this week. Added a 360 Monsta external rad. 
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Apr 4, 2021 02:46
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That is one thicc rad. Are those QDCs, and how are you going to place it?
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Apr 4, 2021 02:54
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My 3600 got replaced by a 5800X, but I didn't even unhook the loop to do it. I think it's the first time I've upgraded a CPU without doing the mobo too. Now to see how temps look with 360+280 and just 105W of input heat.
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Apr 4, 2021 03:08
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:That is one thicc rad. Are those QDCs, and how are you going to place it? Standing on my desk. Case sits on a slate by my right foot.  Used Alphacool Eiszapfen QDC's. Seem to be good quality. Fun little project 
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Apr 4, 2021 03:20
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Kerosene19 posted:Standing on my desk. Case sits on a slate by my right foot. I saw that pic the other day! Made me think “huh, poo poo, I’m mounting right under a standing desk, totally could have done that.” What kind of pump is feeding that? I imagine doing a 240 and 360 inside the case and then also an external 360 is overkill but those fans will uh, never spin up.
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Apr 4, 2021 20:27
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movax posted:I saw that pic the other day! Made me think “huh, poo poo, I’m mounting right under a standing desk, totally could have done that.” Just the EK D5 pump/res in the case, and yeah it's all about setting idle speeds for acceptable noise at this point. I was really close to getting this for the stand but the current design doesn't allow the end tank to be at the bottom. https://liquid-haus.squarespace.com/products Dude says he's working on a revised design though, if so.... 
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Apr 5, 2021 04:59
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Doing some planning / trying to get an EKWB order in with most of what I'm looking for. Two ideas I have for routing tubes:  Above should be pump -> front rad -> top rad -> CPU block -> res -> flow meter -> pump. I would flip the front so the ports are on the bottom. In retrospect, maybe I should have gotten a 360GTS cross flow for the front.  Above should be pump -> front rad -> CPU block -> top rad -> res -> flow meter -> pump. Orange is flow meter, pink is notional reservoir (not selected yet), grey is where pump will go (Watercool D5). That's a placeholder GPU; my real one is a 1080 in this machine that I will move over and keep air cooled unless I find a cheap / used 1080 block somewhere, but eventually I will have a liquid cooled GPU in here. Plan is to use 12 mm hard-tubing. I think I can squeeze a tee-fitting + drain-valve at the bottom near the pump, and then fill from the res. I'm going to flip all the fans I think as well to turn into a push configuration. The Quadro I will put... somewhere, the molex connector on it is at an awkward angle. Thoughts on configurations?
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Apr 6, 2021 20:18
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My OG plan with my quadro was going to be dedicating a molex plug on my PSU to it by removing the socket and soldering directly to the board contacts, but the situation where I'd have used that config didn't pan out. I ended up command stripping my octo to the lower part of the Ncase's front panel, which puts it right in the little void above the front I/O. Configuration doesn't matter much for performance, so I'd just go with whatever you have the patience to run. Could you save yourself a bend by going in the bottom of the GPU from the res? I'd basically start by figuring out how to plumb it in the least amount of bends for my sanity sake. Oh, and it turns out the folks at Pslate were more than happy to sell me a PWM cable pre-pinned for me. I liked it so much I ordered 4 more and I'm gonna rewire my fans with them.
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Apr 6, 2021 23:35
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Warmachine posted:My OG plan with my quadro was going to be dedicating a molex plug on my PSU to it by removing the socket and soldering directly to the board contacts, but the situation where I'd have used that config didn't pan out. I ended up command stripping my octo to the lower part of the Ncase's front panel, which puts it right in the little void above the front I/O. Yeah -- I think I would end up optimizing for least number of bends. Just wanted to preplan enough to not get stuck waiting for more fittings from EK. What's the search term / mounting widget for putting a res on the location I want it there? I guess any bracket with screws + washers will work fine, I'll just bolt it through the vent in the rear. e: Also, in terms of that rad placement; obviously won't be the highest part of my loop. Should I add a little bleeder valve near the top off a T or something? Or will the air just compress / bleed out in the reservoir? movax fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 6, 2021 23:55
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movax posted:e: Also, in terms of that rad placement; obviously won't be the highest part of my loop. Should I add a little bleeder valve near the top off a T or something? Or will the air just compress / bleed out in the reservoir? D5 pumps at full throttle are insanely fast, the reservoir will catch all the bubbles within a couple minutes of running that pump at full throttle so no need to worry about them. Water loops pretty much always form air bubbles in the high points after a while anyway unless you run a D5 at high throttle the whole time which I don't recommend because that makes them noisy and it accelerates the wear. Air bubbles don't cause any significant impact in performance and you can always flush them out by overriding the pump to 100% for a few minutes with software anyway. I run my D5 at 35% throttle all the time, once in a while I'll load up a piece of software and toggle it to 100% and it always results in a small amount of air bubbles getting flushed out of my top mounted radiator but it never has an impact on temperatures (coolant or otherwise). Pretty much nothing I do with the pump/fans does has any impact on the loop temperature actually, but if I turn the air conditioning on in my room that has an instant and significant impact so I know the loop is working.
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Apr 7, 2021 02:30
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movax posted:Yeah -- I think I would end up optimizing for least number of bends. Just wanted to preplan enough to not get stuck waiting for more fittings from EK. What's the search term / mounting widget for putting a res on the location I want it there? I mean, theoretically the only fittings you need with hards are the terminal fittings for each item in the loop, since you can make custom bends in your tubing. The air will work its way to the reservoir--that's the real point of that. For that particular spot, it looks like the case was made for it? Did your case come with any info on mounting things there? Search terms will start with "<brand> <model> brackets" or reservoir holder. A cursory look at some of EK's tube reservoirs like that it looks as though they're made with single mounting holes. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-250
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Apr 7, 2021 04:46
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Indiana_Krom posted:D5 pumps at full throttle are insanely fast, the reservoir will catch all the bubbles within a couple minutes of running that pump at full throttle so no need to worry about them. Water loops pretty much always form air bubbles in the high points after a while anyway unless you run a D5 at high throttle the whole time which I don't recommend because that makes them noisy and it accelerates the wear. Air bubbles don't cause any significant impact in performance and you can always flush them out by overriding the pump to 100% for a few minutes with software anyway. Good to know -- I ended up getting a Vario but am going to leave it as accessible as I can to just stick a screwdriver in to vary the speed if needed. Didn't want to have extra PWM circuitry in the loop if I didn't need it. I'll worry a bit less about the air part now... Warmachine posted:I mean, theoretically the only fittings you need with hards are the terminal fittings for each item in the loop, since you can make custom bends in your tubing. That's not my case in that pic but was a good visual to try and point out which area of the case I was thinking. Turns out it's... pretty narrow, I have like 50 mm of width to work with before it might run into the top of a card (since I still have air-cooled poo poo). Since the cards in the lower slots are all full-height but not GPUs, maybe I will turn a res on its side / get a flatter one and just put it on top of the PSU Cage area. And... good point, I have a minimum set of fittings I know I need so I'll just pull the EK trigger now so I have more and more LEGO bits to play with. movax fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 16:48
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I'd also recommend going with a pump-res combo unit. Having them be discrete for anything other than space reasons (and the Meshify C has plenty of space IIRC) is just taking up two mounting points when one will suffice. Comedy option: hang one of these from the top radiator: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-angled-bracket-120mm
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Apr 7, 2021 17:29
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Warmachine posted:I'd also recommend going with a pump-res combo unit. Having them be discrete for anything other than space reasons (and the Meshify C has plenty of space IIRC) is just taking up two mounting points when one will suffice. I already got a separate pump though I guess I could always to resell the top + switch it to a res. It is very, very crowded for me though... I have an AX1600i at the bottom which really eats into space in the bottom bay. I started more seriously mounting parts in there and oh man, I don't have anywhere near the space I thought I did / nor the ability to actually set up fans in a pusher config for all the rads (top rad will smack right into VRM heatsink on my mobo). Fun! I'm going to tetris it more this weekend and then do the count of fittings / angled fittings and stuff I need.
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Apr 9, 2021 21:38
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movax posted:I already got a separate pump though I guess I could always to resell the top + switch it to a res. It is very, very crowded for me though... I have an AX1600i at the bottom which really eats into space in the bottom bay. I started more seriously mounting parts in there and oh man, I don't have anywhere near the space I thought I did / nor the ability to actually set up fans in a pusher config for all the rads (top rad will smack right into VRM heatsink on my mobo). Fun!  Are you running a microwave with a PCIe connector god drat.
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Apr 10, 2021 00:00
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Warmachine posted:
I got really really excited watching Jensen pull a 3090 out of the oven ok!?!? (And it was free)
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Apr 10, 2021 18:36
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movax posted:I got really really excited watching Jensen pull a 3090 out of the oven ok!?!? I think I figured out how to mount the pump and get everything I wanted, and all it took was a beer and a bunch of rotating it around before it clicked. I want to make sure the orientation doesn't dry out the pump though / gently caress it up (pretty sure it won't):  Heatkiller D5 and top above. There are two inlets / two outlets available -- you're looking at an open inlet here, and open outlet is on the bottom. Notionally, I will build or buy some brackets to mount this on the radiator. There is a full length HYPER M.2 card that sits above this that limits how high up I can put the pump.  This is the other side -- thankfully the speed control will be accessible if I pop off the side panel. What I wanted to show here is that if you look below the pump... you'll see the ports from the radiator hanging out there. Going to be tight to work with, but that's what I got. One of them I'll angle 90-ish and shoot a tube upwards... the other (closer to this side), I want to mate to the outlet port of the pump which is facing down.  You can basically see it here -- I want to make a bend here and mate it all up. Should I do this with soft tubing? Try to build some slotted brackets such that I can move the pump around to try and land a 2x 45 fitting to make the mate? I think I will want my drain valve here too, so I need to cram a T-fitting in somewhere along the line. So in the end, this is the orientation:  Still seems OK since inlet is above the outlet, right? If I think about how I fill this up, the pump will be fed immediately by a reservoir, gravity will be on side (outlet will be flooded / primed as well) and it seems like I shouldn't damage the pump. But, could use a sanity check.
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Apr 20, 2021 05:34
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generally speaking is a 280mm rad going to be enough to cool a 10700k and a 3070? Neither are particularly hot items, but 280mm isnt huge either. Its this one specifically https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W94GMGX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Apr 21, 2021 22:32
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Fauxtool posted:generally speaking is a 280mm rad going to be enough to cool a 10700k and a 3070? Neither are particularly hot items, but 280mm isnt huge either. Compare the volume/surface area on the radiator to the volume/surface area of the conventional heat pipe coolers it would replace to get a proper perspective. Radiators aren't magically better than air coolers, the reason they usually perform better is because they can be absurdly gigantic and placed somewhere with more direct access to cold air without a loss of performance compared to their conventional heat sink / pipe counterparts since the heat is actively forced all the way through them by the pump.
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Apr 22, 2021 00:26
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I can add a 360mm to the loop, i was just avoiding it because it looks much cleaner with only a 280. I'll see how the temps are and then report back if anyone is curious.
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Apr 22, 2021 00:40
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Indiana_Krom posted:It would do it, but I wouldn't expect particularly good performance out of it. The most important parameter you have when you watercool is the desired noise level. With fans going 2000rpm and a radiator with 16fpi or higher you can move alot of heat. Imo in your case you should add a 2nd radi and turn the fans down to 700rpm or so
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Apr 23, 2021 11:02
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I think I have sated my brainworms for the time being with the last replumbing. God bless soft tubing, hardline looks great and all but it's a loving misery to work with. Excuse the obligatory rainbow unicorn vomit.
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May 4, 2021 09:30
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very nice!
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May 5, 2021 01:18
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Theophany posted:I think I have sated my brainworms for the time being with the last replumbing. God bless soft tubing, hardline looks great and all but it's a loving misery to work with. If you just pick a theme I wouldn't have to complain about the rainbow vomit  But I do agree this looks super slick. But where's the PSU? Is there a bay behind the hardware monitor for it? Speaking of, what's the hardware monitor? My only non-unicorn vomit critique is that I think matte black tubing would be a cleaner look. I always feel that the translucent soft tubing looks 'cheap.'
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May 5, 2021 14:30
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Warmachine posted:If you just pick a theme I wouldn't have to complain about the rainbow vomit Ha! I quite like the all white static LEDs so I may finally decide upon that. The PSU in the back of the case in its own compartment at the bottom. The hardware monitor is just a cheap no-name touchscreen 7" IPS LCD for Raspberry Pis I got off Amazon and its running SensorPanel through AIDA64 connected to a free USB 2.0 header on the motherboard for power and HDMI into the GPU. It's mounted on standoffs where the case is designed to have a mini-ITX second system with a flat brace to line up one of the standoffs with the top right mounting hole on the screen. I know he's marmite, but I basically ripped the idea from a jayztwocents video on youtube. I have previously used EK's ZMT, the only problem I had was that the ID/OD tubing I could get my hands on at the time was too thick to easily route in some of the tighter spots like between the two front radiators.
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May 5, 2021 15:11
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I had that issue in my Ncase, but the solution ended up being just not attempting to take the shortest run in each situation. I have three runs of 16/10 running parallel over the top of the GPU for instance. My tightest run was from the GPU to my bottom radiator, which is basically a 90 degree turn with a 2 inch radius I think? I'm worried slightly about it being a lot of sideways pressure on the fittings potentially causing a leak somewhere down the line, but the alternative is even more Rube Goldberg-style tubing runs.
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May 5, 2021 16:18
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