|
I noticed my fork has a couple little dings in it along with a bunch of hairline cracks of some kind in the gel coat. This being the first carbon anything I've ever had, wondering if it's something I should be concerned about or just like cosmetic issue?
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 20:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 04:05 |
|
|
Looks like marks in the laquer to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 20:49
|
|
|
If you tap around the cracks along the frame, does sound change much? Hard to tell really from a photo. Could easily be just cosmetic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2021 21:40
|
|
|
Doesn’t make any weird sounds that I noticed — I suspect the dings happened when the bike fell over in the garage a while back and didn’t notice till just now. Edit: just heard back from Ritchey and they think it’s probably just cosmetic powderific fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Apr 8, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 00:25
|
|
|
New bell New bike bell by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThe one that came with the bike was weak, I stumbled across this when I was ordering thread-recommended Rock & Roll Gold chain lube on Amazon. I had a chance to try it out commuting home after dark last night, it's loud enough without being an obnoxiously-loud angry noise when I'm trying to communicate a non-angry message of "please step to one side", not the "get the gently caress outta my way" that adverstised 100+ dB horns seem to be saying. I'm happy with my gold skull.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 02:45
|
|
|
Can I use this plate to mount a kickstand?  All the pictures I see online of kick stand mounts involve screws going down from the top, this picture is of the bike upside down, so that screw goes up into the frame, but doesn't go through the frame.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 03:39
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:Can I use this plate to mount a kickstand? Yeah that's what that bolt is there for probably.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 04:14
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:New bell Dope as gently caress
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 04:48
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Yeah that's what that bolt is there for probably. It looks kinda small, like an M6, maybe? Should be an M10 with an 8mm hex head for a kickstand. I can't seem to find any that bolt up from below, but it should work if the threading goes all the way through the kickstand's base. My guess, though, is that it's for holding a fender mounting tab.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 05:14
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:It looks kinda small, like an M6, maybe? Should be an M10 with an 8mm hex head for a kickstand. I can't seem to find any that bolt up from below, but it should work if the threading goes all the way through the kickstand's base. Yeah maybe or for SKUs of the bike that had routed cables there, to hold the plastic slider for the cables. I still think it would work fine as a kickstand mount - worst thing that happens is the bolt breaks somehow and it's not doing anything else at the moment.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 05:40
|
|
|
You could probably get creative with a Greenfield (?those are the big standard kickstands, right) by drilling out the threads on the kickstands and using a bolt with thick washer. Also. You don't need a kickstand, especially on a kids bike. They are just going to throw it on the ground anyways, and if the kickstand drops when they go off a jump it might make them crash.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 14:30
|
|
|
OK, so I'd been staring at that plate for weeks trying to figure out what it was for. The thing that was throwing me every time is that all the kickstands I'd see, the plate on the kickstand ran from side to side on the frame, and that plate on my bike appeared to run front to back, or twisted 90 degrees from the way kickstands are normally mounted. Well I don't know if I'd mentioned it earlier but I'm scavenging parts off a similar bike, that happens to have a kickstand with a more "standard" mount. I took that off, and set it on the plate on the bike I'm working on, and I realized (and it's visible in the second picture) that there are little bump-ups on all 4 corners to hold a kickstand plate in place. I put the kickstand in and it rubs on that derailleur cable there, but it sounds like you can buy adapter plats that will move it out of the way of that? Also holy hell that bolt was seized in there, it's a 6mm hex drive bolt, but it's all rusted to hell. The kickstand I scavenged appeared to have a bigger (8mm?) bolt and actual threads in the kickstand. So maybe when you bolt down you're bolting through the mounting plate and attaching to the threads in the kickstand. My 6mm bolt fits through, so then when you're mounting from the bottom that threaded hole just serves as a through-hole and it "attaches" to the threading in the bike.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2021 16:05
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:OK, so I'd been staring at that plate for weeks trying to figure out what it was for. The thing that was throwing me every time is that all the kickstands I'd see, the plate on the kickstand ran from side to side on the frame, and that plate on my bike appeared to run front to back, or twisted 90 degrees from the way kickstands are normally mounted. Just wanted to second what esporks said - I would avoid using the kickstand if possible and I certainly wouldn't take the time to modify one to work or space it out or whatever. Adult bikes (real ones) don't have kickstands - it's totally fine to just lay the bike down (we all do this with our expensive adult bikes), if the stand comes down and deploys it could catch the ground and toss your kid off the bike.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 03:48
|
|
|
I'm a big fan of kickstands. I have no opinion one way or the other for children's bikes, but a kickstand is one of the first things I get for my bike. Yes, it'll be ok if layed down - but very often, there isn't a place to lay a bike down. It has to lean against something or sprawl half-down and into an unstable position, creating a minor hazard (plus being awkward and ugly). The tip of the handlebars is always tempting, but the front wheel will turn unexpectedly and the bike will fall. Many apparently convenient objects are really very bad ideas to use to support a bike, any painted surface (there are A LOT of painted surfaces around) is going to get scratched, many things are surprisingly flexible or fragile, it's just a hassle. Much better to kick the stand down. Obviously, if your riding is 99% in completely rural areas, just dirt roads and fences and hedges and cows, then yeah, toss your bike on the ground and do whatever. For me, I like a good kickstand. I've never had my kickstand come down while riding. I don't hit the MTB trails particularly hard, but I do hit them and I'm trying to practice some basic skills so I do come down off of a few big rocks pretty hard. Again, no problem with the kickstand.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 06:40
|
|
|
Dedicated road/MTB bikes don't get kickstands but everything else does.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 08:29
|
|
|
Kickstands are a godsend when you're hauling cargo either via panniers or a trailer but they definitely do get in the way when it comes to trail riding.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 13:42
|
|
|
Kick stands? Center stands are where it's at (for both loading cargo and generally getting in the way). Unrelated: My wife got a peloton and I'd like to be able to use it too sometimes. Unfortunately my left ankle is fused and gigantic and bonks into the crank sometimes. It's just enough to be irritating / mildly painful after a few minutes. Are there any spacers I could get that would move the pedals outboard by about 5-10mm? Alternatively, are there any long spindle LOOK Delta pedals I should be looking for? They use a standard 9/16" thread. Edit: apparently I can just stack a few black oxide washers between the pedal and the crank arm? Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 9, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 15:21
|
|
|
It is hilarious how militant people get about kickstands. I've had this bike for 15 years (sans kickstand), it's a casual "hybrid" bike. For a few years I had another bike (that got stolen) that had a kickstand, and I enjoyed having that. It was also basically a requirement to have a kickstand when I was hauling my trailer, because if the trailer was connected the bike has to be upright. This is a heavy thick steel frame built like a brick shithouse, it's not a speed demon, it rides on streets and paths, a kickstand isn't going to slow me down or get damaged by debris. It's fine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 16:57
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:It was also basically a requirement to have a kickstand when I was hauling my trailer, because if the trailer was connected the bike has to be upright. This is a heavy thick steel frame built like a brick shithouse FISHMANPET posted:The kickstand I scavenged appeared to have a bigger (8mm?) bolt and actual threads in the kickstand. So maybe when you bolt down you're bolting through the mounting plate and attaching to the threads in the kickstand. My 6mm bolt fits through, so then when you're mounting from the bottom that threaded hole just serves as a through-hole and it "attaches" to the threading in the bike. I'm not worried about your frame; I'm worried about the security of that kickstand-plate inteface. I'd probably get a washer under the bolt so I could torque it down more and really clamp the kickstand up. They probably spec an M10 bolt for kickstands for a reason.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2021 17:08
|
|
|
Are spinning rivnuts on (cheap) carbon forks just A Thing or am I having terrible luck? I ordered a Fyxation Sparta FCR fork and returned it for a spinning rivnut on one of the "3 pack" mounts, saw the State Monster Gravel fork with the same specs and a little more clearance so ordered that as a replacement and it has 2 loose rivnuts. Is this just par for the course in this price bracket? How sketchy is it to use one of the many DIY fixes on Youtube using a long bolt and a washer to tighten the rivnut?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 18:56
|
|
|
a loathsome bird posted:Are spinning rivnuts on (cheap) carbon forks just A Thing or am I having terrible luck? Only data point I can offer is that the earlier gen Sparta fork I ordered with 2 eyelets on the side had atrocious bonding for the threads. It wasn't loose but looked like it could break off. Fyxation took the return without any issue, but I didn't expect a replacement to look any better, so I gave up on them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 19:20
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Only data point I can offer is that the earlier gen Sparta fork I ordered with 2 eyelets on the side had atrocious bonding for the threads. It wasn't loose but looked like it could break off. Fyxation took the return without any issue, but I didn't expect a replacement to look any better, so I gave up on them. Not quite sure what you mean here- the rivnut is the captive nut that is compressed against the inside of the fork/frame right? From what I can tell they're not typically glued/bonded in unless you're fixing the spinning issue I'm having- what did yours look like?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 19:31
|
|
|
a loathsome bird posted:Not quite sure what you mean here- the rivnut is the captive nut that is compressed against the inside of the fork/frame right? From what I can tell they're not typically glued/bonded in unless you're fixing the spinning issue I'm having- what did yours look like? The picture I had must have through their support portal or something, cuz it's not in the email exchange I have with their support. Iirc, the opening in the fork blade was pretty enough and not quite concentric with the threads, which were deeper-set that I expected, like there was a decent gap from the surface to where threads were. I don't recall mine having the rivnut type metal lip on the outside of the eyelet, but can't be sure.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2021 22:34
|
|
|
This seems like a more appropriate place than the general bike thread to ask this. I'm looking to build a bike from parts, and I'd like to make sure I'm not missing anything on my list. I know someone who has done a build, and I'll be able to use their tools. Their build was mechanical disc brakes and bar end shifters if that makes any difference, and they did not build their own wheels. This is everything I have on my list to buy--some things are TBD and I just have price placeholders on my spreadsheet. Frame Assembly Frame/Fork: Kona Rove Bottom Bracket: SRAM Team GXP English Thread Bars: Salsa Cowchipper Pedals: TBD. Either some platform/clipless combo or I'll take the pedals off my other bike and swap those for road pedals. Seatpost: Kalloy Uno Saddle: WTB Volt, med steel Stem: TBD Headset: TBD. FSA Orbit MX? Crown Race: TBD Bar tape: TBD Headset Spacers: TBD Sticker: loving SRAM Drivetrain stuff Shifters/Levers: Apex 1 Hydraulic Brakes: Apex 1 Hydraulic Crankset: Apex 1 GXP, 42t 165mm, ideally 40t 165mm but I don't think a 40t crankset is actually sold anywhere Rear Derailleur: Apex 1 Cassette: SRAM PG1130 11-42T Chain: SRAM PC-X1 Brake Rotors: Shimano SM-RT64S Lock rings: Whatever Shift Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 Shift Cable Set Wheel assembly Rear Hub: Shimano 105 FH-R7070, 32H Front Hub: Shimano DH-UR705-3D Dynamo, 32H Rims: DT Swiss R470 32H Spokes: DT Swiss Competition Nipples: DT Swiss brass Tires: Schwalbe marathon plus 700c x 35 Tubes: whatever Rim Tape: TBD Tools Truing stand Dish stick? Spoke tension meter? I think that everything that I'd need, but some of that is an assumption of what parts and fasteners come with what I'm buying. Also are factory new brakes usually ready to go out of the box, or do they typically need to be bled? I've got plenty of time before I can start since I won't have a frame for at least a couple of months. Is there anything I'm missing or any parts that are total crap / won't work together that I should switch? gwrtheyrn fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Apr 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 06:00
|
|
|
Frame will almost certainly come with the headset, probably an FSA. The sram chainrings are direct mount and there are several vendors, race face aren't the prettiest but generally on the affordable end, also Wolf Tooth and others. The shifters and calipers will come pre-bled and attached, but you'll probably want to adjust the hose length so get ready to bleed some brakes. A bleed kit is like $40 but it's good to have. Any particular reason you're doing marathons and tubes instead of tubeless? Worth getting a tension meter for the wheel build.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 06:30
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:This seems like a more appropriate place than the general bike thread to ask this. I'm looking to build a bike from parts, and I'd like to make sure I'm not missing anything on my list. I know someone who has done a build, and I'll be able to use their tools. Their build was mechanical disc brakes and bar end shifters if that makes any difference, and they did not build their own wheels. This is everything I have on my list to buy--some things are TBD and I just have price placeholders on my spreadsheet. Seems like an aight list. Deda Zero is one of the best value price/weight/quality stems. Have you tried the cowchippers? They're... not for everyone. I'd go with a canecreek 40 over an FSA headset if it's going to see any water or mud. Wheel stuff: I'd also avoid Shimano hubs if you're going to ride this in rain or offroad. Do you really need 32h rims? They're really only needed for folks who are pretty heavy or for loaded touring, and both weigh more and cost more. What kind of riding are you looking to do with this bike? I feel like the Marathon Plus is an odd tire to choose, but maybe it makes sense for what you're trying to do? If this is your first time building a wheel, you're gonna want to get at least a cheap tension meter. It's not necessary, but it really speeds up the learning process, especially if you don't have someone knowledgeable looking over your shoulder. Get a good spoke wrench. The Cyclus Profi (https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/store/cyclus-stainless-spoke-wrench/) is the absolute best one I've used assuming you're planning on building with standard square nipples. What are you going to use for thread prep and threadlocker? Overall... it's very weird to me that you're wanting to build the wheels yourself while doing a budget build. It's going to end up costing way more than it would cost to just buy pre-made wheels (or likely even getting them custom built by a local shop). The Rove ST doesn't have anything internal so you don't *need* to bleed it, but if you have to shorten the housing you'll end up wanting a bleed kit. What light are you buying? Do you have the tools to crimp the wires? Does your friend have the tools to face the BB shell and brake caliper mounts? Bottle cages? You really setting up your gravel bike not tubeless?
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 06:47
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:Crankset: Apex 1 GXP, 42t 165mm, ideally 40t 165mm but I don't think a 40t crankset is actually sold anywhere You can just get a chainring separately, though that understandably eats into your budget. Also, keep in mind Apex has a bolt pattern unique to itself, with fewer aftermarket options.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 06:50
|
|
|
bicievino posted:Have you tried the cowchippers? They're... not for everyone. bicievino posted:What kind of riding are you looking to do with this bike? I feel like the Marathon Plus is an odd tire to choose, but maybe it makes sense for what you're trying to do? bicievino posted:I'd also avoid Shimano hubs if you're going to ride this in rain or offroad. 32h rims were because the dynamo hub is 32H and my understanding is it's best to match rim/hub holes and it's weird having fewer spokes in the back than front. I'm not sure I need the dynamo, but I did find a good deal on one. Do you have a recommendation on hubs that would be more weatherproof? sweat poteto posted:Any particular reason you're doing marathons and tubes instead of tubeless? bicievino posted:You really setting up your gravel bike not tubeless? bicievino posted:Overall... it's very weird to me that you're wanting to build the wheels yourself while doing a budget build. It's going to end up costing way more than it would cost to just buy pre-made wheels (or likely even getting them custom built by a local shop). bicievino posted:What light are you buying? Do you have the tools to crimp the wires? No idea exactly what tools they have. I would have to ask. bicievino posted:What are you going to use for thread prep and threadlocker? kimbo305 posted:You can just get a chainring separately, though that understandably eats into your budget. Also, keep in mind Apex has a bolt pattern unique to itself, with fewer aftermarket options. I'll probably just get the 42T and figure out whether I even want the slightly lower gearing. Even 1:1 is still lower gearing than what I have now, so it will probably be okay
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 08:32
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:Tires: Schwalbe marathon plus 700c x 35
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 11:14
|
|
|
sweat poteto posted:The sram chainrings are direct mount and there are several vendors, race face aren't the prettiest but generally on the affordable end, also Wolf Tooth and others. Whoops, not apex as Kimbo said. If you're not getting a complete group, I'd get a different chainset like praxis or Easton ea90 that take DM rings. Easier to swap and unambiguous compatibility.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 14:38
|
|
|
sweat poteto posted:Whoops, not apex as Kimbo said. If you're not getting a complete group, I'd get a different chainset like praxis or Easton ea90 that take DM rings. Easier to swap and unambiguous compatibility. Second this. The EA90 is a great crank, but you do need a tool to swap rings.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 14:57
|
|
|
If I were in your shoes I would get the Ritchey Comp Zeta Disc wheels or Fulcrum 7 DB, either of which gets you sealed bearings instead of the loose ball shimano hubs, and also gets you a well built wheelset without having to buy $300 of tools. Oh and they're $240 from bike24. Edit: oh, and btw I misunderstood what you wanted to use this bike for. For general around town bike applications, I don't think tubeless makes sense for you unless you have a lot of issues with punctures currently. I do think dynamos are rad, but having personally gone the route of trying to do it on the cheap, it was a very not rad experience. It's worth spending the coin to get a quality and reliable setup, or you're better off sticking with rechargeable lights, imo. bicievino fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 16:36
|
|
|
bicievino posted:If I were in your shoes I would get the Ritchey Comp Zeta Disc wheels or Fulcrum 7 DB, either of which gets you sealed bearings instead of the loose ball shimano hubs, and also gets you a well built wheelset without having to buy $300 of tools. Oh and they're $240 from bike24. Oh I might just do that. For some reason I thought the shipping cost would be a lot more than it is. I'll skip the dynamo for now then. Is it basically go up to shutter precision / Schmidt or don't bother if I decide to do so in the future? Or i guess the field servicable kasais? sweat poteto posted:Whoops, not apex as Kimbo said. If you're not getting a complete group, I'd get a different chainset like praxis or Easton ea90 that take DM rings. Easier to swap and unambiguous compatibility. Would getting a SRAM NX eagle crankset and getting a bigger ring also be a decent option? It's also direct mount and the crankset is less than cranks alone for praxis/raceface/easton, but I have no idea which of the direct mount standards are more prevalent. gwrtheyrn fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Apr 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 20:35
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:If Praxis restocks the 1x Albas, I might get that. As far as piecing things together, would the parts required just be the chainring, crank arms, and a spider if the chainrings aren't also direct mount? That and probably a different bottom bracket, and some bolts if the cranks don't come with them It's uncommon to find a new crankset that was just arms and spider, without chainrings. Wrt Apex 1 -- if you got that and wanted a different chainring, your surest bets probably Wolf Tooth or Absolute Black, but neither have any round ring availability in 40 right now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 21:20
|
|
|
Praxis offers to include a bottom bracket with the chainsets they sell for like $30 and it comes with the installation tool.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 21:27
|
|
|
What's the best way to get old dried sealant off of a tire?
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 22:04
|
|
|
Magic eraser will pull it right off. Or just soap and a dish sponge usually. Usually you can just rub it and peel it with your fingers too if it's not too dried or stuck.
Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Apr 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 22:06
|
|
|
I would just go with the Rival 1x crank, imo. It's not that much more than Apex. For dynamos - Shutter Precision is what crapped the bed on me literally one month after warranty, and then were lovely about service (essentially it was going to be more expensive to service than to buy a new one). SON is overpriced (even from Germany) but it's great.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2021 23:11
|
|
|
bicievino posted:I would just go with the Rival 1x crank, imo. It's not that much more than Apex. It'd look weird to me, but I could use a shimano crankset right? They actually sell the grx 600 crankset in 165mm+40t. The apex has 165mm listings restocking soon but it's 42t. I haven't found any rival 1s listings in 165mm, even sold out ones. The crank arm length the main priority since I'm not even sure I need the lower gearing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2021 00:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 04:05 |
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:It'd look weird to me, but I could use a shimano crankset right? They actually sell the grx 600 crankset in 165mm+40t. The apex has 165mm listings restocking soon but it's 42t. I haven't found any rival 1s listings in 165mm, even sold out ones. The crank arm length the main priority since I'm not even sure I need the lower gearing. Oh, that's super weird, but you're right. Never noticed that they make 165mm in Apex and Force but not Rival. The GRX crankset has a different chainline than the Apex one - 49.7mm vs 45.5mm. I don't know whether that is enough of a difference to give you a lot of issues or if it would be fine. I assume you've considered it, but going all GRX 600 1x has some positives for your whole drivetrain - the shimano hydraulics are much nicer to work on as a home mechanic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2021 02:01
|
|