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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:They covered it up. i think there were a couple close calls that made them board it up but i went down that slide many times without a problem. you just make a friend make sure its clear no big deal dude this problem was sick it was basically my friends first dyno too and shes been climbing for three years. she is usually just afraid of them
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Mar 15, 2021 09:26
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Finally got a weekend outside after a winter that denied us the usual 1-2 sunny weekends in late January and February. Sent a couple good boulders and raised my "most problems done" grade by a v point 
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Mar 15, 2021 21:22
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Well, weight loss is an amazing thing. Used the lock down to lose some weight and it turns out that being 12 pounds lighter makes a massive difference. It's been only 2 weeks since lockdown ended so I'm still super rusty and still managed to climb as hard/harder than I did before. Also already checking off one of my goal for the year feels pretty good.
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Mar 20, 2021 14:19
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when i dropped 15lb from 210ish to 195ish i jumped two grades but this time i've gone from 195 to 185 so far and havent seen any improvement... hoping that last 5lbs makes the difference
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Mar 20, 2021 20:51
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Part of it is that when youre actively losing weight you have less energy (due to the caloric restriction), but once youve attained the target weight youll be able to up your calories to maintenance. More food = more energy. Dont underestimate the effect of climbing with less energy.
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Mar 20, 2021 23:12
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I touched a rock for the first time in 6 months and it was a disappointing showing. It was super nice to be outside but my fingers and skin are killing me.
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Mar 21, 2021 01:10
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SwashedBuckles posted:I touched a rock for the first time in 6 months and it was a disappointing showing. It was super nice to be outside but my fingers and skin are killing me. after 12 months without really climbing I can only imagine the disaster that will be.
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Mar 21, 2021 03:05
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spwrozek posted:after 12 months without really climbing I can only imagine the disaster that will be. I can't wait for the flappers dude
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Mar 21, 2021 05:48
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artism posted:Part of it is that when youre actively losing weight you have less energy (due to the caloric restriction), but once youve attained the target weight youll be able to up your calories to maintenance. More food = more energy. Dont underestimate the effect of climbing with less energy. oddly enough, both times ive been in a significant deficit, i actually feel more energized than normal. hell i think theres a post about it in this thread edit: Verviticus posted:i think im really lucky, because even when i was on a 1000 cal deficit (for the first couple weeks i was trying to lose ~2lb a week) if anything i had more energy. now im around -400 calories and im still probably better than i was before i started losing weight it didnt  edit: ah i thought i went from 210 to 195 but i went from 205 to 190 and then gained that back Verviticus fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 06:13
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Yeah thats very lucky. Im sort of the same in that I can go for hours on end without food, but if I dont hit a certain number of calories by the end of the day Im getting 2-3 hours of sleep max. Of course I tend to drastically cut, but Ive since learned and am slowly losing weight this round
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Mar 21, 2021 15:24
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artism posted:Part of it is that when youre actively losing weight you have less energy (due to the caloric restriction), but once youve attained the target weight youll be able to up your calories to maintenance. More food = more energy. Dont underestimate the effect of climbing with less energy. I think you can lose like 1% of your weight a week without much of an impact on performance from what I've read. I'm certainly hoping that when I go back to maintenance/slight surplus I have even more energy though! But honestly up to now the change in my energy level is minimal.
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Mar 23, 2021 02:40
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Verviticus posted:i think there were a couple close calls that made them board it up but i went down that slide many times without a problem. you just make a friend make sure its clear no big deal It was so fun. So many problems I end up sending and am like "ok great I never have to do that again now" but I'd go back to that one over and over again because it was just so satisfying
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Mar 24, 2021 05:41
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Spring has finally reached Stockholm so I had to take a day off work. Took the opportunity to explore a new crag. 5 routes and a swim in the Baltic was just what I needed. Turns out I weren't the only one there rope soloing either. Glad that the outdoor season is finally here.
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Mar 24, 2021 08:38
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I was working on this fun green "3 hex" (V3-4) on Saturday and after one of my burns where I grabbed that jug just above the transition from overhang to sort of vertical, the tip of my middle finger went numb. It's still numb today and I wonder what I hosed up in my hand and if I now have super powers where I can touch extremely hot things with the tip of that finger without feeling any pain. I also randomly bought a Vancouver guidebook and am sort of curious if it's extremely stupid to go out to a bouldering crag alone (probably stuff with flat/safe landings, and there are a few neat looking above-water traverses that might be fun which are V0 or V1) or if that's a thing people do? I have a coworker who climbs but she is not a part of my circle, but otherwise I don't know anybody to go with
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Mar 29, 2021 20:28
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I also randomly bought a Vancouver guidebook and am sort of curious if it's extremely stupid to go out to a bouldering crag alone (probably stuff with flat/safe landings, and there are a few neat looking above-water traverses that might be fun which are V0 or V1) or if that's a thing people do? I have a coworker who climbs but she is not a part of my circle, but otherwise I don't know anybody to go with It's likely safe especially if the road isn't far from the boulders so you can make it out yourself without too much drama if you have a weird fall and sprain an ankle or something, but you still probably want a pad. There is a huge divergence between gym grading and real life grading of boulders at the lower levels, an outdoor V0 or V1 might be as hard as an indoor V3 or V4 depending on how your gym grades, so don't necessarily expect to be cruising up V0s outside, they might still make you work for it.
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Mar 29, 2021 20:36
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I think it's ultimately a matter of personal risk tolerance. I boulder alone, but most of my local crag has pretty safe, flat, open spaces for crash pad(s) and I don't super push myself to the limit solo
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Mar 29, 2021 20:41
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gohuskies posted:It's likely safe especially if the road isn't far from the boulders so you can make it out yourself without too much drama if you have a weird fall and sprain an ankle or something, but you still probably want a pad. There is a huge divergence between gym grading and real life grading of boulders at the lower levels, an outdoor V0 or V1 might be as hard as an indoor V3 or V4 depending on how your gym grades, so don't necessarily expect to be cruising up V0s outside, they might still make you work for it. No idea about how my gym grades -- my usual gym has their own branded grading system and provides rough conversions to V grades. I do know that in the before-times I once visited a gym in Bellingham WA and was sending V4s before I had ever sent the equivalent of a V3/V4 at my local gym, and the same thing with some place in Syracuse NY
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Mar 29, 2021 20:50
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It's extremely safe to boulder alone IF YOU MAKE IT SAFE! Just pick boulders that aren't tall and chicken out if the top outs are sketchy until you can come back with a friend. There's plenty of boulder that I like to do alone and there's pretty much 0 risk involved because they are mostly a traverse and the boulder is like 3 meters tall with easy top out. Or hard boulders that I can may be do 2-3 moves on them so there's no risk of falling since I'm never getting high at all. Just be smart. Bouldering/climbing is only as dangerous as you want it to be. In other news, losing weight and training strength religiously while in lock down is the best thing that ever happened to my climbing. Technique is cool and all, but having enough strength to apply technique is also pretty nice. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Mar 29, 2021 |
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Mar 29, 2021 20:50
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I was working on this fun green "3 hex" (V3-4) on Saturday Update: I can now sort of feel my finger and it hurts
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Mar 30, 2021 21:58
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you shouldnt have touched all those really hot things edit: if you end up getting that green i think the yellow beside it isnt actually that much harder with the right beta, especially if you can pinch at all
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Mar 31, 2021 09:18
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Dunno if any of you dudes/dudettes like to watch comp bouldering but the USA Team's Men's Finals has some cool problems; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tylgNoKnNvU Haven't even finished the men's yet but will watch the women's next which I'm sure will be just as good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsNdf0e85TQ
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Mar 31, 2021 23:17
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I went to my first outdoor crag today (it was raining and it was just off of a hike I was doing but I saw some problems I'm going to definite send next time it's dry)
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Apr 3, 2021 00:57
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I went to my first outdoor crag today (it was raining and it was just off of a hike I was doing but I saw some problems I'm going to definite send next time it's dry) Weird going from a nice color coded gym to a "figure it out yourself, dummy" environment, isn't it?  I haven't been outdoors since Fall 2019 but I'm going to a new crag 2 hours away tomorrow with some friends. I'm really excited to break my "dry spell" of no outdoor climbing, a new crag to explore, and simply just having a group with a bunch of pads to go with. Historically I always went alone with my 1 pad.
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Apr 4, 2021 02:24
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Sab669 posted:Weird going from a nice color coded gym to a "figure it out yourself, dummy" environment, isn't it? The one I got stoked on trying when it's dry is just a crack and the beta is probably "just go up the crack" tbh
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Apr 4, 2021 04:11
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Ah, yea, some are definitely more straight forward than others. Beautiful day at the crag for me, gaddam I didn't realize how much I missed it. And just being in a more comfortable social environment. Like yea sure people still chitchat at the gym, but it's not the same as before the pandemic. And my old group all seems to have disappeared since the gym reopened too. So it was positively lovely to just have a small group to sit around with and climb for a few hours.
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Apr 4, 2021 23:17
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I bought an arc'teryx hoodie
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Apr 5, 2021 02:23
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That seems like something climbing related I thought I'd post
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Apr 5, 2021 02:29
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as a babby climber who is too scared to post in this thread: i completed my first 0+ bouldering problem today (I think our gym uses their own rating system so let's just say it's a pretty simple one). still feels like progress !
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Apr 5, 2021 07:19
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I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back
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Apr 5, 2021 14:01
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Slimy Hog posted:I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back Yeah dude. I am looking at restarting my membership June 1 as I will have been fully stabbed and cured by then. Excited to just be at the gym.
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Apr 5, 2021 15:48
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spwrozek posted:Yeah dude. I am looking at restarting my membership June 1 as I will have been fully stabbed and cured by then. Excited to just be at the gym. On top of it being safe, my company will start re-imbursing my gym membership too, so it will be _free_ for me to suck at climbing
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Apr 5, 2021 15:52
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Im going to bite the bullet and do at least a few in person coaching sessions with the head setter at my gym; any tips/pointers/questions or things I should be asking? Ive been climbing indoors since June 2016 and outdoors since April 2020 (thanks, COVID!) but had a powerlifting background prior to that. Ive done several V5s and one (likely soft) V6, but Im pretty sure I have the strength to climb much harder than that. My goal for the coaching sessions is essentially to get feedback on how to apply that strength when climbing, mainly maintaining tension on poor feet when making large moves to bad holds.
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Apr 7, 2021 18:43
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SwashedBuckles posted:Im going to bite the bullet and do at least a few in person coaching sessions with the head setter at my gym; any tips/pointers/questions or things I should be asking? Depending on how hard your gym's grades are compared to mine, I'm in the same boat -- can do most of the V5's they set but I've only gotten one 6 which was very much my style and probably soft by the gym's standards. So I'd say "how to apply that strength" probably isn't your issue? I almost never feel limited by my grip strength, just my own general inability I feel like it's all technique at this level. Which I'm sure they can still help you with!A friend of mine has been working on her beta reading ability where she'll just refuse to watch people do a given problem she's working on, which I think is probably a very smart idea that I should start doing. It's much easier to bumble through a moves you saw someone else do than it is to actually figure it out on your own, often times. Unless it's just like a boring crimp ladder.
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Apr 7, 2021 19:08
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Slimy Hog posted:I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back Climbing comes back pretty quickly, I had a coworker who climbed 5.13-ish in the early 90s (he competed in the Snowbird competitions!), and hadn't climbed at all in the last 10-15 years. He was able to get on 11ish stuff outside within a few days of deciding to get back to it.
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Apr 7, 2021 20:13
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Found a good youtuber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_cBw2Rf6ug&t=131s
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Apr 7, 2021 20:27
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Sab669 posted:Depending on how hard your gym's grades are compared to mine, I'm in the same boat -- can do most of the V5's they set but I've only gotten one 6 which was very much my style and probably soft by the gym's standards. So I'd say "how to apply that strength" probably isn't your issue? I almost never feel limited by my grip strength, just my own general inability Im similar indoors - almost all V5s, roughly half of V6s, and maybe a total handful of V7s so far indoors. I climb at the Central Rock Gyms in MA, which are fairly consistently graded except for Cambridge, which is sandbagged in comparison (but similar to outdoor grading). Ive noticed that I have trouble holding tension through my feet in comparison to weaker people I climb with, which is what I meant by being strong enough to climb better if I could apply it. An example of strength benchmarks like: 2x BW deadlift (off the couch without training it in years) 1.4x BW 10s max hangs >1.5x BW pull-ups (ran out of weights) can muscle up and (mostly) front lever (easily hold with 1 leg tucked) I dont feel like any particular area is really weak, more like my muscles dont coordinate together properly. I am also pretty bad at all points off dynos. SwashedBuckles fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 21:16
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 Central Rock Buddy. I'm at their Buffalo gym and went to the Worcester gym once and it was much harder - although I was recovering from an injury, and climbed the day prior at Lincoln Woods.gently caress dynos 2 shoulder injuries in only 2 years of climbing, I don't need to do those problems. Which is a real shame because they're setting a lot of 'em, lately.Curious to hear what / how much they're able to help you!
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Apr 7, 2021 22:53
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A Central Rock Gym in upstate New York (Rochester) was soft enough for me to send V3s in rental shoes before I had ever managed to do the equivalent of a V3 at my gym at home. So either my gym grades sandbaggy (it actually fluctuates, right now it's sorta soft but a while back I couldn't send poo poo) Whatever though, grades are fake and are only practically useful insofar as it's fun to see a number go up
bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 23:41
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BC is hurdling towards needing to shut gyms down so I bought a crash pad before the rush of people who are going to want to buy crash pads before the summer. I hope I don't see a bug while I'm climbing outside
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Apr 8, 2021 23:10
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at this point i dont even know if these morons know they're allowed to shut things down
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Apr 8, 2021 23:56
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