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Motronic posted:While I know it should be stained and and that would be glorious, I love that the etching matches the staircase details. Oh yeah I suppose those motifs do go together. I mean, it’s not at all bad as a window design, except... it’s not actual etching, just a decal. nm posted:Basically everything everyone did to houses before like 2010 is just loving criminal. I think my dad got his windows made by a local carpenter who might have not even specialized in windows. With the right tools (which are all standard), anyone with a carpentry background could make an old fashioned wood window, I think. But yeah, there was definitely a huge shift in attitude about maintaining vs replacing. The rise of planned obsolescence probably had something to do with it. Design the thing to fail irreparably after a time and then sell more things! Toebone posted:My house has amazing 1830s wooden windows everywhere except the living room, where some poor misguided soul replaced them with terrible, cheap aluminum ones. I can't even open them without something popping out of the frame half the time so they mostly stay behind curtains. Those window sound cool. Were you able to fix them/find a better solution than the dowels? His Divine Shadow posted:What? Two pane windows last as long as single pane windows, maintaining the seals in a traditional wooden two pane window is part of regular upkeep and can be done with stuff you get from a hardware store for a few euros, it's proven and efficient technolgy from the 1800s, these old windows are efficient to the point that studies showed you wouldn't recoup the costs by moving to modern three pane windows (the norm here). So, I think we are talking about completely different things here. When I say “double-paned”, this is what I mean:  The two glass panes are mounted close together within the sash. The seal I’m talking about is made at the factory and is hermetic and maintenance free (aka unserviceable). It’s not pretty when it fails:  Ten years after installation, this crappy window, which replaced its much longer lived wooden predecessor, has failed and needs to be replaced. The broken seal cannot be fixed, and the area between the panes cannot be accessed without destroying the window. This place doesn’t even need the double panes because it is a summer house and is boarded up in the winter. It was installed by the other side of the family, who are into short term cheap fixes. What you seem to be talking about is not what I regard as double paned windows, but single paned windows fitted with what we know as storm panes or storm windows, which are removable and maintainable second panes that you mount on the interior or exterior of your existing windows. I did mention them: quote:...if you do stuff like insulate the attic and install storm panes and good window treatments, you can easily make up for the energy savings you lose by not having that second pane. Storm panes seem to have fallen out of favor in the States and been supplanted by the concept of mass window replacement with expensive “maintenance free” energy efficient windows typically made out of petrochemicals that outright fail after 20-30 years and need replacing yet again. Why would window companies want to sell you storm panes that you can maintain and mount yourself and use to save just as much energy for way less money and increase the longevity of your wood windows that you can have made (or god forbid, repaired) at a local millwork shop and not in the window company’s specialized factory? Doing smart European things like retrofitting and maintaining old windows and being sustainable and poo poo is antithetical to the twisted system that is American capitalism. Luckily you can still get storm panes made, but it is not the mainstream solution by any means, even though they used to be much more common.
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Apr 9, 2021 16:36
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Queen Victorian posted:Those window sound cool. Were you able to fix them/find a better solution than the dowels? Nah, I got distracted by some other stuff and forgot that little project. I did put down some peel and stick and fresh quarter-round over the old nightmare of a kitchen floor, it really freshened things up.  (New trim isn't installed yet in the picture, but I did a good job and now can't help but notice how sloppy it is in the rest of the house) Toebone fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 16:47
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Quote isn't edit
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Apr 9, 2021 16:48
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Hi. We call those storm windows. Those are not double panes.
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Apr 9, 2021 17:08
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We moved into our new house about six weeks ago. Yesterday we noticed the fridge was not cooling to below 40F so we had a repair guy come out. We have a single door GE monogram fridge and it is likely 15 years old (https://appliances.monogram.com/us/specs/ZIRS360NXRH). He tested the coolant pressure and said we had a coolant leak, and could refill it but can’t do the leak repair. It started cooling down immediately so it seems like we have a temporary fix at least, but it may not last very long (repair guy said maybe a year but that sounds overly optimistic). I’ve been reading about leak sealants you can inject but that seems like they may not work. However if they are only 50-60 bucks and the alternative is just buying a new fridge anyway I’m wondering if I should try it. Anyone ever use these with success? I guess the alternative is finding another repair person that could do the leak repair proper but that would probably be 300-400$ and if it’s in an unserviceable location I’m still out of luck.
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Apr 9, 2021 17:09
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Queen Victorian posted:Storm panes seem to have fallen out of favor in the States and been supplanted by the concept of mass window replacement with expensive “maintenance free” energy efficient windows typically made out of petrochemicals that outright fail after 20-30 years and need replacing yet again. Why would window companies want to sell you storm panes that you can maintain and mount yourself and use to save just as much energy for way less money and increase the longevity of your wood windows that you can have made (or god forbid, repaired) at a local millwork shop and not in the window company’s specialized factory? Doing smart European things like retrofitting and maintaining old windows and being sustainable and poo poo is antithetical to the twisted system that is American capitalism. See I don't really understand storm panes, or storm windows or knew what they where, I thought it was something people put over exterior windows, on the outside of the house, since I saw some canadian do that once on youtube and said they where storm windows and I think they might've been plastic, so I wasn't sure the concept as I meant it even existed in the US. Until just now then. And they aren't the norm here either, but they are still around and made as a niche product and still around on old houses(not always...). They manage to be effective enough to keep around. I'm really quite impressed that 19th century tech holds up so well. Still storm panes seem like a good way then to modernize old windows without having to resort to too modern solutions. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 17:09
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nm posted:Hi. We call those storm windows. Those are not double panes. There are two layers of glass to the window, that's what I would call double pane. I guess this is a language barrier thing.
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Apr 9, 2021 17:10
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His Divine Shadow posted:There are two layers of glass to the window, that's what I would call double pane. I guess this is a language barrier thing. Yeah, its a language thing. The guy above me has a better post explaining what we mean. Double panes just don't look right in old houses and you can't clean the center section. When I lived in MN, the 20s houses I lived in had storm windows, though here in CA they don't happen, but maybe should due to AC now.
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Apr 9, 2021 17:12
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I love storm windows, now that I know what they're called. I'm a big proponent for their use. Sometimes I wish I lived in an old late 1800s farmhouse with these types windows and a woodstove in the kitchen.
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Apr 9, 2021 17:18
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I don’t know what the thread title is in reference to but ironically my ice maker just died yesterday. Found out my fridge has a particular flaw where the wires leading to the ice machine near the bottom hinge of the door rub against the door every time it’s opened and wind up breaking after about 18 months. Proper fix is a whole new door at around $1000.
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Apr 9, 2021 17:25
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Our house’s Previous Owners ( ) did crappy vinyl replacement windows throughout the house and in the process jettisoned the two decorative front windows with stained glass detailing. Our neighbor has them and wants to keep them (to keep in their basement or whatever, thx).We’ve had to replace the failed balances in most of the crummy new windows and have the joy of missing out on some nice original detailing. Cool cool. I’m so sick of paying to remedy ‘low/no maintenance’ Boomer home improvements. Next up: the slapdash vinyl siding job.
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Apr 9, 2021 18:10
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Spent a lot of time last fall cleaning/patching/priming the rear and right walls in the garage. Now that the weather is above minimum paint application temp I got around to putting some color on. I’ll be continuing the grey all the way around my workbench area but that is a project for another day, I have a couple of other items to address before I start patching and painting that area. 
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Apr 9, 2021 18:48
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nm posted:The guy above me has a better post explaining what we mean.  His Divine Shadow posted:I love storm windows, now that I know what they're called. I'm a big proponent for their use. Sometimes I wish I lived in an old late 1800s farmhouse with these types windows and a woodstove in the kitchen. Yes, they are a very good solution and I wish they were presented as a solution more often, rather than the ubiquitous “replace all your windows for ~*energy efficiency savings*~ and please ignore the astronomical cost which means they’ll never actually pay for themselves in energy cost savings before they fail and need to be replaced again.” When reading your post I was like, “Wait, there are maintainable double paned wood windows from the 1800s?? Why the gently caress don’t I know about these??” then “Ohhhh those are storm panes!” One confusing thing is that the interior panes are still often called storm windows even though the interior pane is inside insulating and leaving the window itself exposed to storms so it’s a bit of a misnomer. Window inserts make more sense for referring to the interior second panes. A good US-based resource for understanding the deal with old houses and their windows is Old House Guy, who bitches about replacement windows in old houses far more than I do. He has a whole section of window blog posts and articles: https://www.oldhouseguy.com/windows/ Not the best writing, but he makes some very astute observations about why replacement windows often look so bad and presents alternatives to replacement for old house owners. BadSamaritan posted:Our house’s Previous Owners ( That’s kinda bullshit your neighbor won’t sell/give them back when they’re not doing anything with them. I actually have a silly noble fantasy of salvaging all the neato old house parts from neighboring houses if/when flippers get a hold of them and At the very least, I can more realistically snap before photos and offer my house as a reference (it has a twin next door and also a lot of doppelgängers nearby, and otherwise the houses around here are pretty cookie cutter - all the builders at the time seemed to have worked from the same small pool of stock plans). Would your neighbor at least let you look at/borrow them to take photos and measurements so you can replicate them? My house’s twin still has one of its stained glass transoms, and now that it’s not occupied I really need to go over and take some closeup pics of it and measurements. quote:We’ve had to replace the failed balances in most of the crummy new windows and have the joy of missing out on some nice original detailing. Cool cool. I’m so sick of paying to remedy ‘low/no maintenance’ Boomer home improvements. Next up: the slapdash vinyl siding job. That sucks. When we moved in, none of the old windows with cord & counterweight balances worked because the cords had all been either painted in place or cut because our PO was a clueless idiot about this house. Luckily it was pretty easy to fix. But then again it was old poo poo that the PO had destructively tampered with out of ignorance, not new poo poo that broke all by itself. I actually just read an article on different types of balances with pros and cons that I dredged up on Google and it was on a window installer website and they listed cord & counterweight as having only one pro - nostalgia - with a bunch of cons, which included cords tending to fray (untrue if you use the correct type/quality of cord or a chain), and requiring specialized repair (also untrue - took us like two diagrams and a half hour of YouTube to become Specialized Antique Window Repairpeople ourselves because old windows are supposed to be easily repairable). Kinda pissed me off. But now I know about other types of balances, though I need to find more balanced sources on balances in the future.
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Apr 9, 2021 22:14
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The only hard thing about weight and pulley windows, unless you have dryrot, is getting the balance right. And the good news is that if you open up your windows (or maybe walls), there is almost certainly a perfect set of counter weights in there! There were some wood windows built without access ports, likely by assholes, but it isn't THAT hard to make an hole and cover, but if you're nervous I'm sure many people can make them for way too much (not much money but what seems like a lot of 10 minutes per window).
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Apr 9, 2021 22:34
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The worst we ran into in that regard was stops that were affixed with nails instead of screws and also painted on, which meant some prying and unsightly damage to the paint. One access panel was missing, but that was because it had disintegrated along with the bottom quarter of the jamb. 
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Apr 9, 2021 22:46
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All of our windows are horizontal sliders  They still go bad eventually if earthquakes bend the frames.
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Apr 10, 2021 00:32
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I'd like to have the thinnest possible posts to get some nice string lighting over my deck, and looking for further ideas. The goal is to make a zig zag pattern between two posts on the deck, and 3 spots on the house. I did a proof of concept with 1'x2'x10' cedar furring strips and meh. It doesnt help that that stupid telephone pole is out there too:   These types of things are on Amazon all day but stupidly are $150.  One thought is using the top rails of a black (or white, if exists) chain link fence (horizontal part in these photos, the same end caps):  Ideally I'd like them to be as thin as possible, so *maybe* a garden shepards hook, which is mildly strong, but I'd have to cut the extra piece off of the bottom?  Curious if anyone has other ideas than above. Also clues on how to attach hooks to a soffit, its really hard to tell where the actual structure is under there.
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Apr 10, 2021 14:05
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I would recommend using actual fence posts, not those plant hangers and especially not some furring strips. You’ll need something resistant to lateral motion to securely attach the steel guide cables to since those lights strings are, and I cannot emphasize this enough, not designed to be load bearing. I just finished an install on my own deck and in my case I was able to anchor to the fence and awning upright, but lacking that I would use fence posts or hangers designed for the load.  Pardon my lovely wire rope termination, I needed to get a new swaging tool and I used the clamps as a temporary solution until it arrives. corgski fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 15:40
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Is yours attached to the neighbors house or is there a mystery post that I can't see there? Yeah I already have the wire and whatnot. For the furring strip idea, they shouldn't away much left-right (length of deck) because of said wires. Basically the shape of a W, where the bottom of the W is the two posts on the railing. 'in' towards the house though I can't really calculate in my brain. They're currently situated to be 1" side facing the house, 2" side perpendicular to deck rail which is slightly stronger than if rotated 90. Maybe I can find some wrought iron spindles or something, if long enough. Hmmm. Edit: perhaps black steel conduit for gas lines or similar? Has a 'pro: that it would have brackets and stuff sized to mount it properly, usually to joists. falz fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 16:41
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If you’re desperate to avoid blocking the view why not cantilever a few horizontal poles on the house above the slider out to the edge of the deck, as a proto-awning?
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Apr 10, 2021 16:58
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Backyard landscaping project continues to be in the shower thoughts phase: is there any reason I wouldn't want to tie my gutter downspout into my sump pump drain line, which goes to a dry well installed about 15ft out from the house? Ideally I'd like to bury the downspout and since the sump pit was put in a year ago, it has never had water in it so the dry well is just sitting there unused. I suppose if I find out the well is undersized I could dig it up and put in a bigger one?
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Apr 10, 2021 17:10
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falz posted:Curious if anyone has other ideas than above.
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Apr 10, 2021 17:17
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falz posted:Is yours attached to the neighbors house or is there a mystery post that I can't see there? There’s one wire between my house and the fence and the other wire picks up on that wire to make a T to the awning. Eventually I’ll do the same again between my house and the closer bit of fence when that lovely awning comes out, to make an H shape basically. Black steel would tend to rust outdoors but you could easily use like 1-1/2” galvanized or aluminum pipe and fittings. I’ve done that for outdoor lighting installs at amphitheaters and bar stages before. Bonus there is you’d be able to mount some outdoor speakers to it too. When I’m back at my computer I’ll sketch up an idea for doing it so you’re blocking as few sight lines as possible. corgski fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 17:52
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On the same topic, can anyone recommend a particular brand / style of outdoor string lights? Need more lighting for my porch and the backyard patio
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Apr 10, 2021 19:52
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Toebone posted:On the same topic, can anyone recommend a particular brand / style of outdoor string lights? Need more lighting for my porch and the backyard patio I have these, they seem fine: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/211340/KIT-10064.html nm fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Apr 10, 2021 |
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Apr 10, 2021 23:26
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nm posted:I have these, they seem fine: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/211340/KIT-10064.html Oh NICE. I've been ordering replacement LED bulbs from them as things go burn out in this boomer-renovated house of mine that was full of incandescents. I've been really happy with them in general and I'm looking for something like that for this summer. Thanks!
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Apr 11, 2021 01:10
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nm posted:I have these, they seem fine: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/211340/KIT-10064.html Sweet, this is on our to-do list. Whenever our contractor gets off their rear end, maybe in 2-3 months we'll have a nice new screened porch, and we're asking for receptacles at soffit level (on the inside) specifically for stuff like this. That reminds me, we should ask them to add one on the outside so we can hang these over the deck as well. Anyone know a good density per square foot for these? Less for light and more for ambiance. Trying to figure out if we'd want 25' or 50' for a 16x13 porch.
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Apr 11, 2021 01:41
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DaveSauce posted:Anyone know a good density per square foot for these? Less for light and more for ambiance. Trying to figure out if we'd want 25' or 50' for a 16x13 porch. I would also like to know this
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Apr 11, 2021 02:07
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Old window chat...the windows in my 1860s house are all original wood double-hung diamond pane beauties, but worked terribly due to idiots painting all over them. I had someone come and restore them (took the sashes back to the shop, stripped all the paint off the jams, install new ropes, add weatherstripping, etc. Now they are the best windows ever. Zero rot on any of them, old-growth wood is great stuff. Unfortunately, new wood windows are not going to be the same, and require a lot more aggressive maintenance to prevent rot. Next step is trying to get some custom-made arched storm windows so you can tell these are curved from the outside and I don't have to stare at the back of a trim board from the inside. 
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Apr 11, 2021 02:12
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Old window chat...the windows in my 1860s house are all original wood double-hung diamond pane beauties, but worked terribly due to idiots painting all over them. I had someone come and restore them (took the sashes back to the shop, stripped all the paint off the jams, install new ropes, add weatherstripping, etc. Now they are the best windows ever. Zero rot on any of them, old-growth wood is great stuff. Unfortunately, new wood windows are not going to be the same, and require a lot more aggressive maintenance to prevent rot. My local shop makes their windows out of Spanish cedar, which is the next best analog to old growth white pine, which is what most old American windows were made from. I was watching Rehab Addict (excellent show for old house lovers), and in one episode, Nicole pulls out this charred-rear end stained glass window that she’s going to install in her current project house and she’s like “oh yeah I got this from a house that burned down but the windows didn’t burn because they’re made from old growth lumber ”. With some minor repair work and repainting it was good as new. Also, she always sets aside budget to re-lead old stained glass in her project houses and in general is extremely pro-original window. quote:Next step is trying to get some custom-made arched storm windows so you can tell these are curved from the outside and I don't have to stare at the back of a trim board from the inside. Those windows loving own and good job getting them fixed up. I recently saw a diamond paned oriel on my block get replaced by a pair of vinyl trash windows and it was very sad. True divided light diamond paned can be a bitch to build and extremely expensive so it’s awesome you still have them. Have you tried hitting up local millwork shops for the properly fitted storm panes? At the very least they’d probably be able to refer you to the correct tradespeople for getting them made.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:51
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Queen Victorian posted:True divided light diamond paned can be a bitch to build and extremely expensive so it’s awesome you still have them. Welp, I have a bunch of stupid casement windows in the kitchen I am hoping to replace soonish with new matching diamond-paned windows. Not looking forward to learning how much that is going to cost. I live in a historic district and was planning on asking them for help sourcing the storms. They are always yelling at people who want to put in replacement windows to just get good storms on their historic windows, so I imagine they will have some leads.
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Apr 11, 2021 03:13
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Welp, I have a bunch of stupid casement windows in the kitchen I am hoping to replace soonish with new matching diamond-paned windows. Not looking forward to learning how much that is going to cost. Oh I’m sure they have plenty of leads - the millwork shop I’ve been talking to does a lot of historical work so that sort of stuff is in their wheelhouse, and if a city has historical districts, I’d bet there are shops around capable of servicing it. As for diamond panes, we have a couple mini-Palladian configurations with an arched window and two rectangular side lights - one has diamond pane side lights but the other does not, be we found evidence that it used to and asked about restoring it. Window guy mentioned that TDL diamond pane is just inherently expensive due to its intricacy. I am very much not in a historic district but I like to pretend that I am, even if it’s just our own house... We considered looking at an 1870s rowhouse in a historic district but it was just a bit too expensive and a bit too far from the radius of neighborhoods we wanted to be in. Really loving cool though.
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Apr 11, 2021 03:59
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Sirotan posted:Backyard landscaping project continues to be in the shower thoughts phase: is there any reason I wouldn't want to tie my gutter downspout into my sump pump drain line, which goes to a dry well installed about 15ft out from the house? Ideally I'd like to bury the downspout and since the sump pit was put in a year ago, it has never had water in it so the dry well is just sitting there unused. I suppose if I find out the well is undersized I could dig it up and put in a bigger one? The amount of water that comes off any given section of your roof sure as poo poo should be a hella lot more than what the sump pump disgorges. So, you'd run the risk of filling the dry well depending on how well it drains off.
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Apr 11, 2021 04:01
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Peoples thoughts on Hydroseeding? I just want to do my front yard which isn't too big (I cant remember the exact measurements - just built) and I have heard it's cheaper than sod but a little more than seeding. https://rivercityhydroseeding.ca/hydroseeding Sounds like it needs less water too which is always nice.
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Apr 11, 2021 05:08
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HycoCam posted:The amount of water that comes off any given section of your roof sure as poo poo should be a hella lot more than what the sump pump disgorges. So, you'd run the risk of filling the dry well depending on how well it drains off. I think I'm fine with that? I mean right now the downspout just dumps water onto the lawn. This would essentially dump most of the water underground and then any extra would come out the bubbler and onto the lawn but in a different spot. I'm really just trying to figure out what to do with my ugly rear end downspout and the dry well is right there not getting used...
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Apr 11, 2021 13:56
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Vintersorg posted:Peoples thoughts on Hydroseeding? I just want to do my front yard which isn't too big (I cant remember the exact measurements - just built) and I have heard it's cheaper than sod but a little more than seeding. Hydroseeding is typically a solution for bulk seeding in places people don't care about. The sides of roads. A pile of dirt that needs erosion control. We use to refer to it as "hydroweed" due to the poor quality of seeds used. I'm not sure why you would want to do that in a yard that's "isn't too big". I just used a walk behind broadcast spreader to overseed 1/2 acre yesterday and it took me about 20 minutes. If you're seeding bare ground you also need cover so add another 20 to spread one of the "granulated" recycled newspaper or whatever cover you have locally that fits through your spreader. The seed you use is going to be (ought to be) the most expensive part. Good seed sin't cheap. I'm paying about $125/50 lbs for really good shady mix stuff at a landscape supply place and something like $100/50lbs for more generic full sun mixes. Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 15:51
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Note that almost all seed sold at big box home improvement stores is coated and the coating makes up the majority of the weight of the package. So something that’s 20lbs may only have 3lbs of seed in it, but you’re still gonna pay $50 for the bag. Every fall I order a 25lbs pack of uncoated sun/shade mix from Tractor Supply for about $50. It’s not the absolute highest quality stuff but it’s great for overseeding.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:51
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Motronic posted:Hydroseeding is typically a solution for bulk seeding in places people don't care about. The sides of roads. A pile of dirt that needs erosion control. We use to refer to it as "hydroweed" due to the poor quality of seeds used. I'm curious what else did you do for this? My lawn could really use some thickening up but there's over an acre of it, some of its at up to an 18 degree incline, and there's a variability in when all the snow will melt of like a month. I've got no problem walking a spreader around distributing seed but doing a lot of the other typical prep work isn't something I'm inclined to spend many, many, many hours over multiple weekends doing with rental equipment and the lawn isn't in such a condition I'm inclined to pay $*,000 to a landscaper or to buy my own tractor attachments I may only use a couple times. I wonder if spending a few hundred on seeds and spreading them around is a waste of time if the only other thing I'm going to be able to do is do light waterings via sprinkler every few days.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:43
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Elem7 posted:I'm curious what else did you do for this? I mean, the other things that I did involve things like this:  I did a bunch of work last year including core aeration, fragilization (fall nitrogen push), selective herbicides to kill off what I didn't want, more core aeration just now plus a dragged it out with a chain harrow to break up the cores. This left me with a bunch of bare patches where weeds used to be, so I had to jump on it and get seeded before the weeds come back. If you don't want to go through all of that I'd suggest getting a soil sample (your count ag extension office can help) and figure out what your soil needs. Put that down along with the seed they suggest. Best results would be with a slit seeder if you're not going to do any core aeration, etc. Anything over a 10 degree slope should get something like those straw mats, which have gotten absurdly expensive ($55/100 square yard roll). I don't do this kind of thing every year. I've only been in this house for a couple years and this is my first real "correction" to this yard. If you keep up with correct fertilization and core aerate it every year or so you probably won't have to do much else other than mow it properly (i.e. 3.5" or more, don't scalp it) and your turfgrass will tend to outcompete the weeds.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:59
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Yah aerating is the biggest thing I had in mind under preparation, all I've seen for rent locally are small walk behinds and I do have a tractor similar to yours but don't know that I can justify $2k on a 3-point aerator and haven't seen those for rent locally. Aside from that the other big issue was the lack of irrigation meaning I'd be watering each area every few days at best during the week.
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Apr 11, 2021 21:02
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