|
At a first glance, those seem to react to either sudden loss of large quantities of water or physical water leak over a strategically-placed sensor. You'd probably place something like this inside of a cabinet or under a water heater. Usually those places are fine with the cursory visual inspection. Most leaks develop slowly over period of time and often spotted visually within a short time frame. I'm not telling you not to spend money on this, but the usefulness of those products seems a bit exaggerated One place I can see moisture sensor to be important is outside of sump pump basin. And only if you're relying on a pump to keep your basement dry or something equally unusual
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 20:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:10 |
|
|
SouthShoreSamurai posted:I need to move my laundry box. I was thinking that since I've already got the wall open and I have to put in a new box anyway, I would put in a little extra insurance and get one of these https://ndaonline.net/watts-A2C-WB-M1-intelliflow-with-wall-box/ I have one that's purely mechanical, but I think it's been discontinued? Even if you do something upstream, I'd still suggest something similar there. You can't have any water damage from a burst hose if the water isn't on!
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 21:48
|
|
|
devicenull posted:I have one that's purely mechanical, but I think it's been discontinued? Even if you do something upstream, I'd still suggest something similar there. You can't have any water damage from a burst hose if the water isn't on! That and the vertical throw style are the types I've seen in countless apartments on the washing machine hookups.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 21:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:That and the vertical throw style are the types I've seen in countless apartments on the washing machine hookups. The vertical ones are manual though - with the one I linked you turn it on when you start laundry, and it turns itself off in ~3 hrs
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2021 21:59
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:At a first glance, those seem to react to either sudden loss of large quantities of water or physical water leak over a strategically-placed sensor. You'd probably place something like this inside of a cabinet or under a water heater. Usually those places are fine with the cursory visual inspection. Most leaks develop slowly over period of time and often spotted visually within a short time frame. I'm not telling you not to spend money on this, but the usefulness of those products seems a bit exaggerated None of the ones I linked use sensors, because I personally don't like the sensor-method. The ones I linked all have an inline meter that will monitor and report all flow through the line, with accuracy equivalent to the positive displacement-type meter installed on many homes; I think the Flo device is using an ultrasonic sensor. The two positive displacement-type, will probably detect flow above about 0.004 gpm, so if you set it to "away" or "sleeping" or whatever, and it sees more than that continuous, it's going to shutoff the valve. For comparison, running your sink is going to be 1 - 1.5 gpm, and the shower is closer to 2+ gpm, so that should put it into perspective that they're not looking at "sudden loss of large quantities of water" to be able to detect a leak. And I've had two leaks in the last 8 years: one was in the wall with just a small drip that we didn't find until the carpet near the wall was wet and wouldn't dry, and I'm not sure the drip would have been large enough for this, but the other leak was a slab leak that we noticed because the meter wouldn't stop running even though we knew no water was being used, and any of these would have shut that off right away. So to me it's a cheap investment to make given the related cost of repairs that have and could happen. Plus, they typically recommend replacing supply lines to refrigerators, washing machines, dishwashers, toilets, sinks, etc. every 5 years at the latest. While I'm sure many of us do that, how often do you think the typically person does it? That's who these devices are also meant to help...
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 00:05
|
|
|
The moen unit in your first link absolutely does, but I'm wrong about the rest. The constant flow monitoring function is the real winner here as it would detect minor water loss due to an unseen leak. Every home would benefit from it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 00:50
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:The moen unit in your first link absolutely does, but I'm wrong about the rest. The constant flow monitoring function is the real winner here as it would detect minor water loss due to an unseen leak. Every home would benefit from it. I should have been more specific: I'm talking about the Flo by Moen Automatic Water Shutoff (https://www.moen.com/products/Flo_by_Moen/Flo_by_Moen_34_smart_home_water_monitoring_and_leak_detection_system/900-001), which functions via internal sensors to monitor flow, pressure, and temperature and uses an App to monitor and control/adjust the unit. It does not require any of the other sensors that are shown on that site, and it appears that Moen has simply rebranded all of their leak detection systems as "Flo by Moen" unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2021 00:57
|
|
|
Cross posting a similar question from the electrical thread:. We're repiping our house with PEX on recommendations from this thread (also replace the water heater), but the plumbers apparently done know how to apply for permits in our country (we're technically outside of San Diego). I'm calling to try and figure it out, and most of the application is self explanatory, but what kinds of drawings would be needed with this? Just a simple plumbing diagram showing pipe diameters and runs? What about for the water heater if it's just a replacement of the same size?
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Apr 24, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2021 22:55
|
|
|
What the gently caress? Get a plumber that can apply for a permit then. Unless you're a licensed General Contractor, it's not your job to do so.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2021 21:18
|
|
|
Thanks, I blew up at the contractor for telling us no one is doing permits for these and that our price and timeline is going to change if we want permits (why did your original quote but have the assumption of permits). Also wanted to change some window sizes and raise our kitchen ceiling without permits. Not sure if we can salvage this but my wife is mediating and we said to figure it out and tell us how much it's going to cost and how long it's going to take.
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Apr 24, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2021 23:29
|
|
|
The extent of the permits for my whole home repipe were the words "whole home repipe." That was it. Same with my rewire but I think it also said like "new panel, service upgrade, whole home rewire" or something like that. From there it's assumed everything is touched and brought up to code. I'm sorry you're dealing with this sketchy contractor and it sounds like they're taking advantage of you. Sounds like they're afraid of permits, so you should be afraid of them. Since you're in California it wouldn't surprise me if you could make a complaint on their license about it - either to the state or local regulator. "I hired this contractor to do this, they said verbally they will handle permits, but when I asked where the permits are they're telling me they won't do it. What do? I have made sure not to start work because this didn't seem right." You will simultaneously put that contractor on the city poo poo list (making sure they don't pull permits ever again, it's not like it stops them from working) AND hopefully ingratiate you to the local inspectors. Sadly there is not formal process to make sure contractors are pulling permits. The state could audit them every so often but it's never going to happen. No one has the money or desire to so it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2021 23:52
|
|
|
Thanks. We've terminated that contract (they said they were just trying to meet my wife's preferred move in date but permits for all the Reno work would add 6 to 9 months to their timeline. I found the city permit database so I can use some of the other repipe contractors I see on there, and it looks like Pex repipe is an over the counter permit so should be quick.
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2021 04:22
|
|
|
So went to put something in the garage this morning, and found that the water heater bottom had failed, as water was rushing out of the bottom pan via its piped outlet to the garage floor. It's a gas unit, and so now I have a conundrum: do I go back with a standard 50-gal gas unit, or do I take this opportunity to go tankless? I'm in Phoenix, and gas is somewhat cheap. I'm tempted to go tankless just so that I can take out the bottom support and not be afraid of hitting it with the van anymore...
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2021 18:13
|
|
|
Just depends on your use case, how many folks using faucets for hot at the same time, and all that. We got a free tankless from our local gas co and it has been nothing short of amazing for our use case.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2021 21:40
|
|
|
It's my wife and I and our two sons, so when I did a "worst case" same-time flow use, it's probably on the order of 9-11 gpm. Earlier today I had actually talked myself into trying to do it, but then I forgot about the gas line sizing, and that ideally it'd be fed by a 3/4" gas line. Our current unit has a 1/2" line to it, and the common gas line might only be 3/4" or 1". The only other gas-using appliance is the furnace, and granted it's a multi-stage unit, but still seems like we might be pipe size constrained.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2021 07:55
|
|
|
Found one plumber who would do the permits but wouldn't be able to get to it between jobs until end of week so we did it ourselves to get moving. Sent in my floorplan with where my water comes from and needs to go and on the form just had a box to check that said I was using a licensed contractor and it's done. May have some changes or corrections when the city reviews but it look w minutes from finding the instructions on the city website to actually getting out to them so not sure what the issue is unless contractors didn't want to schedule inspections. I'm more upset that we wasted 5 days fighting over this. In more plumbing related news, one of the plumbers we talked to was a very passionate believer that Pex was going to be worse than our polybutylene and the PEX companies were keeping all the lawsuits from failures out of the news. Can't confirm this was right out wrong at all, but after 30 minutes on the phone I literally could not get a quote for PEX which was a fun time. City has an expedited permit approval timeline specifically for PEX repipe so I think we're good to go. Couldn't get a manifold which I really wanted after someone here recommended it since I'd have to put it in the garage somewhere where I don't have the space yet (and I think you're not supposed to have it where it could be exposed to UV anyways) but at least my house shouldn't flood in the near future.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2021 22:33
|
|
|
SourKraut posted:It's my wife and I and our two sons, so when I did a "worst case" same-time flow use, it's probably on the order of 9-11 gpm. I ended up just going with a standard 50-gallon gas tank, so that's that! On a related note, while the plumber was here, I asked about a quote for a water softener system. He happily provided it to me, but when I received the invoice, something stood out that was bothering me. The water softener would need to be in our garage, and on the quote, they mention running the drain over to a vent in the attic to tap into. But my understanding of the code is that you cannot tap into another fixture/appliance's vent stack, and it would either need to have its own dedicated drain line with air gap, or otherwise could be routed to another existing drain line, such as the washing machine standpipe, and air gap'd there?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2021 23:53
|
|
|
What the opinion of using Sharkbite adapters for behind wall repairs? Had a leak yesterday in the wall at the water heater inlet and took out the wall and did a quick repair with some Sharkbites. They seem to be fine for code but I know plumbers are weary of using them behind closed up walls.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2021 23:02
|
|
|
FCKGW posted:What the opinion of using Sharkbite adapters for behind wall repairs? Had a leak yesterday in the wall at the water heater inlet and took out the wall and did a quick repair with some Sharkbites. They seem to be fine for code but I know plumbers are weary of using them behind closed up walls. I'd use them in an emergency situation. I've used them in emergencies (broken line, bad valve, needed to install an inline valve while everything was wet). I would hesitate to bury them in a wall.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2021 23:57
|
|
|
Anyone who even remotely warranties their work will not use sharkbite, or at least put in inaccessible location. Nobody that I've seen. I personally use push connect shut off valves because they're easy to get to, that's about it. 0 failures so far. The only people using those fittings wholesale are house flippers, operating without any oversight/permits/common sense. The common failures are from incorrect installation, because somebody didn't bother reading the simplest of instructions.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 00:03
|
|
|
Doesn't sharkbite also have a crimp on version other than the push in version that everyone knows and loathes?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 02:53
|
|
|
We hired a licensed plumber to repipe with Uponor Pex starting tomorrow and I left it at that, but after reading the last few posts how likely is it I need to go back to specify exact fittings like 'don't use sharkbite' and also visually check that correct PEX is used? City permit inspectors are also looking at it, but I just assumed requesting Uponor Pex would be good enough without anything else to watch out for as far as cost cutting or failure prone practices are concerned.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 05:39
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:We hired a licensed plumber to repipe with Uponor Pex starting tomorrow and I left it at that, but after reading the last few posts how likely is it I need to go back to specify exact fittings like 'don't use sharkbite' and also visually check that correct PEX is used? City permit inspectors are also looking at it, but I just assumed requesting Uponor Pex would be good enough without anything else to watch out for as far as cost cutting or failure prone practices are concerned. Licensed plumber + permit = don't worry about it. They are insured for more than your house is worth. Please don't micromanage their work with second hand internet information.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 11:16
|
|
|
KKKLIP ART posted:Doesn't sharkbite also have a crimp on version other than the push in version that everyone knows and loathes? Yes. The Sharkbite brand makes a full line of PEX-B stuff, including pipe, fittings, and crimp & clamp tools. All of them are high quality if somewhat overpriced. The 'Push' line is what they're infamous for, of course.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 13:39
|
|
|
B-Nasty posted:Yes. The Sharkbite brand makes a full line of PEX-B stuff, including pipe, fittings, and crimp & clamp tools. All of them are high quality if somewhat overpriced. My plumber did all the crimp version because that’s what they use as a company. Seemed pretty satisfied with it when I asked him.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2021 21:45
|
|
|
Talk to me about water shut-off valves. I'm working to replace the vanity in our new upstairs bathroom because the previous vanity was deteriorating 70s fiberboard. In the process of getting the old sink & vanity out and the new vanity in, I appear to have damaged something above the right shutoff here: This is before I hooked up the new sink and tried turning on the cold water. Basically, the shut off still keeps the water from coming out, but when I turn it on, it starts dribbling out around the nut at the top of the valve. That right valve is older-looking than the left valve and the actual pipe coming out of it is different material, so the left valve may have been replaced more recently. It was late when my buddy and I discovered this dribble issue last night, so we just closed it tightly and called it a night. Can I just brace the valve itself and try and tighten that nut? How hard is it to replace a shut-off like that, knowing that taking the new vanity away from the wall would be...very difficult...at this point? I'm regretting my order of operations here as I write this.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 16:09
|
|
|
Sorry for asking this question that I know has been answered. Does anyone have recommendations on toilets, and what is the name of the seal everyone loves instead of using a traditional wax ring? I replace the wax ring on my toilet two years ago, and I just noticed it leaking again. I don’t really like this toilet anyway, it has flushing issues. So if I’m pulling this thing off again, I’m just replacing it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 20:36
|
|
|
You want the fluidmaster ring: https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-7530P8-Universal-Better-Wax-Free/dp/B00R7D35TQ
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 23:06
|
|
|
Bird in a Blender posted:Sorry for asking this question that I know has been answered. Does anyone have recommendations on toilets, and what is the name of the seal everyone loves instead of using a traditional wax ring? I won't say they are the end-all be-all toilets, nor are they the cheapest - but we have Toto Drake IIs in our bathrooms and I wouldn't trade them for anything. Over 10 years, I think one has clogged once, and as a goon, I have clogged my fair share of toilets in my life. Easy to clean, flush strong, no complaints. Infinitely better than the garbage that we had when we moved in.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 01:25
|
|
|
Thanks guys
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 13:56
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:...shutoff valve stuff Turns out the valve unscrews from the pvc pretty easily, and there's a rubber gasket secured to the top of the pvc. I unscrewed the valve and then my buddy and I applied pressure to the bolt for the faucet supply as a team to get it off. I replaced that supply and the other one for good measure. Everything is hooked up with no leaks (including the p trap) so victory into it explodes I guess.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 23:31
|
|
|
I live in a 1924 construction house. When the house was built it was common to have cast iron pipes that were tied into the sewer that were connected to the downspouts. This isn't to code any more, so the downspouts just go to the ground now. What I am left with are some cast iron pipes in the basement that go through the brick foundation to the outside. Ideally I'd like to cut and cap the pipes inside. What is the best way to do this? What is the best fitting to use to cap them? Imgur gallery of the pipes below. There are two larger ones (4"?) and a smaller one (2"). We have some masons repointing the brick, and I'm hoping if I can get this sorted before they are done they can patch the inside as well. https://imgur.com/a/lyTlIfe
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 00:44
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:I live in a 1924 construction house. When the house was built it was common to have cast iron pipes that were tied into the sewer that were connected to the downspouts. This isn't to code any more, so the downspouts just go to the ground now. What I am left with are some cast iron pipes in the basement that go through the brick foundation to the outside. Ideally I'd like to cut and cap the pipes inside. What is the best way to do this? What is the best fitting to use to cap them? Imgur gallery of the pipes below. There are two larger ones (4"?) and a smaller one (2"). We have some masons repointing the brick, and I'm hoping if I can get this sorted before they are done they can patch the inside as well. https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/RIDGID-Ratchet-Soil-Pipe-Cutter-6-69982/309392297 https://www.amazon.com/expandable-rubber-plugs/s?k=expandable+rubber+plugs
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 01:45
|
|
|
Chiming in to add that you should cut the cast to leave six inches or so at the wye in case you or a future owner want to add a sink or something. It’s always useful to have excess soil line capacity. Make sure that the rain leader (the old wye assembly used to tie outside surface drainage to the soil run) is sealed so that a real Baptist downpour doesn’t flood your basement. Rain leaders are A Thing in the city of Philadelphia: rowhomes not only have the roof drainage as well as any patio pad channeled into the sewer lateral, it’s required by code. It’s also a great way to test the pressure capacity and integrity of your +80-YO iron, and a fabulous way to get 2+ feet of water in your basement in record time. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Chiming in to add that you should cut the cast to leave six inches or so at the wye in case you or a future owner want to add a sink or something. It’s always useful to have excess soil line capacity. Thanks! I cut it above the wye. The reason I wanted to get this done is that we have masons working on the foundation, and by getting the pipe cut they can fully remove it and patch it.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 03:20
|
|
|
Looking for some advice on a couple of seemingly small jobs around my house that I was quoted $850 for from one plumber and about $600 from another, while it was pointed out to me in the house ownership thread that I could probably do both jobs with around $100 in tools and supplies. I don't have any plumbing experience but consider myself at least a little handy, so I might give a go at doing them myself if I have a good plan ahead of cutting any water lines. So here goes, bigger job first: I need to add a new faucet in my backyard, since the only one currently installed is outside the fenceline for my garden. My house is on a crawlspace and the main water line runs along the wall I want to install the faucet on. A few people in the home ownership thread suggested using Sharkbites for this job, so I mocked up what that would look like in the crawl:  Red T: tee stop valve Blue line is PEX Grey and purple thing: frost free sillcock I'm sure a real plumber would use a more conventional joining method for the T stop instead of sharkbites, but I'm not super-confident in my own ability to solder a joint correctly as a first-timer (kind of sad for a metallurgist, now that I think about it). It's probably easier to just drill through the rim joist (I think that's what the 2x12 sitting atop the masonry is called) and the siding right above the masonry, which I'd drill at about 5 degrees tilted downwards toward the exterior, then after connecting and affixing everything back-filling the empty space with Great Stuff. Estimates for this job were $400-$500 from two different plumbers. 2nd job is trying to make the best of the lovely fridge water line installation. The PO put a saddle valve on the line to the bathroom and just ran 1/4 inch copper tubing through the floor to the fridge:  Obviously the best thing to do would be to put in a T stop in the crawlspace to replace the saddle valve, then run PEX or copper to a supply line into the wall with a shutoff right there. That's definitely more than I can stomach doing myself, so I was hoping there's a relatively straightforward way to cut and cap the copper tubing at the floor behind the fridge and install a proper 1/4 inch water supply valve for the fridge. I have a new one being delivered in a couple of weeks and they won't connect the water line to anything but a shutoff valve, for good reason. Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I bite the bullet and fix the lazy saddle valve in the basement, run PEX to the floor hole, and install a fitting onto the PEX, increasing the size of the hole if necessary? One plumber quoted me $100 to put a valve on 1/4 inch tubing, but the other wanted to do the full fitting for $350, with a shutoff in the wall. Of the two jobs, if I had to pay for one of them I would probably prefer to pay for the fridge line to have it installed the correct way. I'd really like to do both myself, though. Thanks for any advice anyone can provide!
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2021 04:34
|
|
|
Gut-check question. We have a well that is piped into one corner of the basement. Currently there is a pressure tank and in-line sediment filter right next to that inlet that then run to the softener, water heater, etc. in the utility room about 50' of pipe away. The only floor drain in the basement is in that utility area, which means the pressure tank is nowhere near it. Is there any disadvantage or potential issues if I relocate the pressure tank to that utility room? I would still have a shutoff right where the line comes into the house. It would be a 1" pex line going up into a ceiling chase, about 50' horizontally with a couple 90's, then back down to the pressure tank. The pump is already moving the water 200' vertically to get it up into the house, so anything in the house seems negligible in comparison. I looked through Chapter 6 of the IPC and didn't see anything that would prohibit it, but figured there may be something I'm missing or expert experience that would dissuade me.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2021 22:56
|
|
|
What the heck is this thin "chain clamp" called? Need one but I'm having trouble finding the right search term for it. My first instinct was "plumbing chain clamp" but that is bringing up an entirely different product. \/ Hanger strap. Thanks. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:31 on May 13, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2021 01:27
|
|
|
melon cat posted:What the heck is this thin "chain clamp" called? I think its just "metal strapping". E: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dahl-all-round-strapping-copper-22ga-1-2-inch-x-10-feet/1000115954
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2021 01:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:10 |
|
|
melon cat posted:What the heck is this thin "chain clamp" called? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-4-in-x-25-ft-28-Gauge-Galvanized-Pipe-Hanger-Strap-33530/301505501
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2021 01:29
|
|