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ddiddles posted:Good to hear that it can freeze and not instantly explode, I have nightmares of turning on the sink in the morning and hearing lines popping. The whole point of PEX is to not burst when freezing. That's what its supposed to do. Any RV built in this millennium will have it. Now that doesn't take into consideration RV faucets or the pump itself  Me personally? pump on during the day. I shut it off when I'm not around. Water heater when it is needed otherwise it stays off. For poopin' etc, get the tablets for the black and the gray tank. Really helps manage odors.
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Feb 20, 2021 05:41
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cursedshitbox posted:The whole point of PEX is to not burst when freezing. That's what its supposed to do. Any RV built in this millennium will have it. Now that doesn't take into consideration RV faucets or the pump itself Fair enough, gonna do it without worry next week.  I routed the battery cables into the pass through and put my 100ah lifepo4 battery in there, just waiting on an inverter to come in and I'll make some correct cables and enclose the box.
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Feb 20, 2021 09:33
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I leave it hooked up to the water hose all the time, water heater running both gas and propane all the time, propane furnace on all the time especially when pulling it down the road in freezing temps. I have two heated hoses. One Pirit that sucks, the other uses a completely different technology that I like. The sewer hose is not heated or covered, gray valves open all the time. Here is the heated hose I use: FreezeFreeHose Heated Water Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NSJKPFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YXH9FQ28Q44NE5RV3SS3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And heres what the setup looks like. I have a lot of extra support and angle on the sewer hose to keep things moving fast.  For propane, I have a fifth wheel sturgi stay hooked directly to the 500 gallon tank. The local propane dealer said that I could get away without using a 10psi regulator at the tank because the run was short. If it was longer, there would be a chance the propane would condense in the line. The 100lb tanks were rented and connect to the same sturgi stay. I doubled them using a kit from tractor supply. Last night got down to 4F. Supposed to warm up from here.
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Feb 20, 2021 14:25
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What is a sturgi stay?
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Feb 20, 2021 16:27
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French Canadian posted:What is a sturgi stay? The easy way to hook up more propane tanks. https://mbsturgis.com/products/5th-wheel-quick-disconnect-sturgi-stay-kit/
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Feb 20, 2021 17:59
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rdb posted:The easy way to hook up more propane tanks. That's nifty
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Feb 20, 2021 18:34
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cursedshitbox posted:The whole point of PEX is to not burst when freezing. That's what its supposed to do. Any RV built in this millennium will have it. Now that doesn't take into consideration RV faucets or the pump itself Valves and connections can very well crack when water freezes within them. That goes for bypass valves.
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Feb 21, 2021 05:07
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edit: that was an odd forum burp
Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Feb 21, 2021 |
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Feb 21, 2021 05:21
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Well water isnt shooting out everywhere so all seems well. I have pooped in my rv so i now officially live in it. Actually it hit me after getting this all tested that this was the last thing I wanted to do before I leave idaho, so now I actually have to do it. Anyone got any favorite parks/campgrounds/boondocking in the southern utah/northern arizona area? Preferably somewhere dry and above freezing, I've had enough of winter the past couple weeks. I dont really have a planned out path, was just gonna head to Zion and figure out something from there. ddiddles fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 08:40
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ddiddles posted:Well water isnt shooting out everywhere so all seems well. Page AZ is a nice central spot to dump the camper while sight seeing. Or if you want to dry camp, there is a campground by Lees Ferry/Marble Canyon. Zion area had snow last we were through in early Jan. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 13:20
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So this is just talk that will most likely lead to nothing, but as a side effect of the pandemic, I've been thinking about RVs, because the idea of just being able to leave my current location and go somewhere else while keeping a roof over my head that I own is pretty appealing. I've read through this thread and some other discussions about RVs, and the ultimate takeaway is that I am unlikely to buy an RV for a bunch of reasons, but it's still something I keep thinking about. There are a number of barriers to buying an RV for me. Money honestly isn't one, I can afford something nice, but I doubt I'd ever get the value out of the RV to make the purchase worthwhile, if that makes sense. One big obstacle is that I'm pretty tall - I need at least 80" to stand up in, and that's going to be real claustrophobic, so that takes van builds completely out of the picture, as far as I've been able to tell. Some class C RVs have 82" interior heights which is adequate, but these also have more length and would probably be difficult to drive and park. I also would want a bed length of at least 80", which some RVs offer, but a lot seem to be in the 76" range which just wouldn't work. Then there's the issue of having a place to store the RV, since I live in an apartment and don't own any property where it could be parked longterm. My ideal would be something with a high interior, and a single large bed (I'd be traveling with, at most, one other person, or likely just by myself). I'd like electrical appliances rather than propane fueled - a single good-sized induction hob and a way to plug in an instant pot would be fine for all the cooking I like to do. I'd like the ability to go off-grid with solar power and a large battery bank; a plug-in hybrid drivetrain would be perfect, I think, but it doesn't look like any RV manufacturers offer this. I'm thinking no slide-outs, since it looks like they give you more interior room but at the cost of weight, mechanical complexity, and insulation, and I'd like to minimize the number of failure points since a consistent thing I'm reading is that RVs are maintenance hogs. I'd like storage space for a bicycle and other gear. Looking around, the Winnebago Ekko meets a lot of these desired criteria, and nicely it's not a huge vehicle overall, but the ceiling and bed are right at 80" which is just barely viable. Anyway, I'm just spitballing here, and if anyone has any thoughts, I'd be happy to hear them.
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Mar 4, 2021 18:10
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I'm not able to figure out the inside height of this but I think its a super cute motorhome  https://www.irv2.com/rvclassifieds/showproduct.php?product=18081&title=1995-fleetwood-flair-22d&cat=4 Also if you got the coin for van conversions like the Ekko, great....but omg paying what they're asking blows my goddamn mind Also this 1999 Winnebago Minnie has 83" ceiling allegedly. And it's under 23ft so classes as a passenger vehicle I guess https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1999-Winnebago-Minnie-5015693348 If money isn't a problem then you can afford to trial in a cheap RV for a bit, sell it off and upgrade. Highly unlikely your first RV is the one you keep no matter how much research you do. French Canadian fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 00:44
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Kylaer posted:So this is just talk that will most likely lead to nothing, but as a side effect of the pandemic, I've been thinking about RVs, because the idea of just being able to leave my current location and go somewhere else while keeping a roof over my head that I own is pretty appealing. I've read through this thread and some other discussions about RVs, and the ultimate takeaway is that I am unlikely to buy an RV for a bunch of reasons, but it's still something I keep thinking about. If your tall towables are a better option short of a full on class A or super C style rig. Forget the van builds. I am 6’6”, 300lb. The full profile fifth wheel I have (Jayco Pinnacle) is fine for me to stand up in. The shower has a skylight which adds 3” but I don’t need it. Grand Design solitude and Jayco Northpoint were ok. Keystone montanas were a little small. I fit just fine in the jayco eagle bumper pull we had before. Grand Design reflection bumper pulls were an ok fit. Airstreams were a no go. As far as self contained units go, no issues in my in-laws winnebago forza. The class Cs I have been in were ok but both were older. If you want a cool hybrid and money isn’t the problem, a ford powerboost F150 with the onboard 7,000w generator is the only off the shelf choice. Any decent bumper pull you like <30ft won’t be an issue with that. Also, almost nothing short of $500k class As and show hauler rigs come with induction ranges. And pretty much everything uses fuel for heating. Sometimes diesel, mostly propane.
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Mar 5, 2021 03:13
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Thank you both for the input. The reason I was thinking of a self-propelled unit is because I currently drive a car that is pretty small and definitely can't tow anything, so I'd have to get both a tow vehicle and the trailer itself. I do see that the towed units are roomier and cheaper than self propelled. And I was thinking electrical appliances over propane for sustainability, but if they're so rare then that's fair. As I said, I doubt I'll actually pull the trigger on an RV of any sort, it's just something I've been thinking on.
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Mar 5, 2021 20:58
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Having a good time playing Winnebago Simulator (Beam.NG)      edit: lol 
French Canadian fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Mar 12, 2021 |
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Mar 12, 2021 18:31
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Where was this during winter?! Edit: seriously want a link Edit appears to be beamng.com
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Mar 12, 2021 21:23
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Yeah that's all it is plus an RV mod I found
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Mar 12, 2021 21:31
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The RV mod was broken for a while recently so the box would just fall off the chassis and I'm so happy it's back working. Also needs more mods: 
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Mar 13, 2021 01:03
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Oh poo poo that's a good idea. Trying to tow a camper with a truck into some remote campsite without losing it off a cliff. I see there is a multiplayer add-on or something. Any goons wanna be super goony and pretend to go RVing in the forest or desert? https://wiki.beammp.com/en/home/installation-guide French Canadian fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Mar 13, 2021 |
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Mar 13, 2021 01:50
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The super jacked up trailer I have in that shot loves to bounce over on its side at the slightest bump, but the more normal "Offroad Camper" variant is pretty decent to drive. I haven't played BeamMP before but would be up for giving it a shot. It's supposedly a lot less janky than you'd expect it to be.
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Mar 13, 2021 18:24
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Ok I pm'd you...
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Mar 13, 2021 18:54
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Some photos from the road. Death Valley:  It fits it sits:  Lil' Flyby:  omg snerrr  
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Apr 10, 2021 19:00
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That's what I'm talking about. My truck shopping is going slowly but that's some good inspiration.
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Apr 11, 2021 01:36
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Looks great. Are you gonna escape the west soon for the summer?
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Apr 11, 2021 01:49
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Rick posted:Looks great. I'm not sure. Signing up for a vaccine when it becomes openly available on the 15th and going from there. There's a race event in New England in August I'd like to see and in general spend some time around that area of the country. Though I'd need to be on my way there now and covids still a thing. Maybe next year? Atticus_1354 posted:That's what I'm talking about. My truck shopping is going slowly but that's some good inspiration. I've grown up with a buncha travel trailers and did buses on my own, truck campers are a new one for me and drat do they rule.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:23
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My wife brought up getting a class A next spring and spending a year full-timing it. The plan has been to give it 5 years-ish first and then do a super duty + bumper pull. Mostly because our youngest is now 11 months and next will be coming along eventually. Thoughts on Class A vs BP TT? Or just because, how big of a PITA is a 5th wheel vs the bumper pull? I expect the height to cause a lot of headaches while driving around with bridges and stuff. We'd need master + 2 kids bunks + a guest option at minimum either way. And a decent space as an office for at least one if not both of us. Forest River 274BRB has caught my eye, but Im sure there are lots of other options as well. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 19:05
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Fifth wheel is easier than the bumper pull. Just make sure you get an F350.
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Apr 12, 2021 03:56
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Grand Designs 5th wheels are the poo poo, at the very least.
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Apr 12, 2021 04:14
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French Canadian posted:Grand Designs 5th wheels are the poo poo, at the very least. Can confirm
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Apr 12, 2021 07:08
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rdb posted:Fifth wheel is easier than the bumper pull. Just make sure you get an F350. French Canadian posted:Grand Designs 5th wheels are the poo poo, at the very least. Seconding this. 5er >> TT every time. 7.3 Godzilla is fine if you're not wanting to spring for 6.7 psd money. Class-A? Diesel pusher or bust. Again godzilla gets a pass, 6.8 v10s, do not.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:11
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The plan if we go towable would be a godzilla F-350 lariat. I don't want to deal with diesel's weight, and a 350 gives a lot of room to grow if needed. We stopped by a camping world yesterday and did a walk-through on a few designs. 5th wheel is likely out until kids are gone, and that is a long way down the road. We liked the Cherokee 324TS the best, so probably going to look at similar size/layouts to that. Are there any full-time class-A youtubers you can recommend? We know of KYD and a couple of others for towable but don't know of any class A dwellers for comparison's sake.
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Apr 14, 2021 14:25
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cursedshitbox posted:6.8 v10s, do not. Yeah I 'inherited' a low mile (read: 6000 mile) c class with the 6.8 and I'm just glad the RV portion disintegrated before the motor had issues. Could barely get out of its own way and lol if you put 1000lb of tongue weight on the thing. The suspension loved it and it was much more comfortable with it but you'd never get into overdrive above 65 mph. Bringing out the classics: 
Crunchy Black fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Apr 14, 2021 14:57
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ilkhan posted:The plan if we go towable would be a godzilla F-350 lariat. I don't want to deal with diesel's weight, and a 350 gives a lot of room to grow if needed. Class A tends to be older couples on youtube. I also find youtubers in general are way too positive about RV ownership, theres a lot that sucks they either omit or try to put a positive spin on. Smells, shakes, temperatures, lovely neighbors, big expenses etc. I would suggest experiencing it first. And stay away from camping world. Good god, my first one came from there, the service after sale is non existent, my in-laws didn’t have positive things to say about them. My inlaws currently have a 2017 or 18 winnebago forza. I have slept in it a few times but its not something I wanted to spend that much on. I don’t think they have had any issues with it and they drive it cross country several times per year. Their previous class A had an 8.3 cummins that wound up needing a pump/injectors for $$$$ and eventually burned to the ground from the absorption fridge. Most of the diesel ones are a freightliner medium duty chassis underneath. The gas ones tend to be ford super duty and I don’t think they hold up as well as a bus chassis. Personally if I did have half a mil to blow the show hauler super c with the cascadia chassis would be my pick.
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Apr 14, 2021 16:37
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The only classA YT I've watched is 'You, Me, & The RV'. Older exmil retired couple. rdb posted:Personally if I did have half a mil to blow the show hauler super c with the cascadia chassis would be my pick. Yeah same. Toterhome or bust.
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Apr 14, 2021 18:03
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Crunchy Black posted:Yeah I 'inherited' a low mile (read: 6000 mile) c class with the 6.8 and I'm just glad the RV portion disintegrated before the motor had issues. Could barely get out of its own way and lol if you put 1000lb of tongue weight on the thing. The suspension loved it and it was much more comfortable with it but you'd never get into overdrive above 65 mph. I had a 26' UHaul with the V10 recently. I spent most of the trip barely touching the throttle to keep things in back from moving around too much. When I pulled out of the neighborhood to return it, empty, I stomped on it... and was greeted with exactly the same noise and non-acceleration as when I had been babying it.
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Apr 14, 2021 18:09
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Is there some magic that goes into the "max payload" sticker on the inside of the door jamb that is more than just GVWR - weight of that specific vehicle? I'm comparing a Durango vs a half ton for towing a modest (4-5k GVWR) trailer, and the Durango does not seem to have anywhere near enough payload for its rated tow ratings. Based on engine, the Durango with its tow package is rated to tow 6200-8700 lbs, but also every single Durango has a door jamb sticker that says "1200 lbs max". That is absolutely going to be a problem with 10-15% tongue weight for trailers anywhere near its max payload rating, but also it's unintuitive that the payload would be identical for every single one, regardless of configuration. To make it worse, Dodge advertises different payload capacity, but if you actually look at the physical sticker on the truck, they're all 1200. Is the only way to figure out actual Durango payload taking it to a scale, and subtracting its measured weight from its GVWR? For that matter, payload seems to be an issue on the half-ton trucks as well, because the bigger engines have lower payload capacities. For example, a base V6 4x2 Ram 1500 quad cab has 2300 lbs payload with no options, while the bigger engines that weigh more have the payload start falling quickly. That 2300 lbs payload sounds great for the V6s rated ~7k lbs towing capacity. By the time you're at the 4x4 5.7 V8, the maximum payload is down to about 1700 lbs, which feels like it's going to be a big problem if you're trying to pull the rated 11,500 lbs. What am I missing? What's going on here? Why do the "bigger towing" trucks have dramatically smaller payload capacity? RAM payload chart, showing decreasing payload as tow rating increases: https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBONjPJTiLoD5%0A
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Apr 17, 2021 18:37
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In the smaller trucks where there's a lot of variation in a given platform there's less payload due to the more weight of the equipment it sports. The v8 will weigh a hundred or two pounds more than a v6. 4wd systems will had 2-500lb over a 2wd variant. Luxury interior appointments will also detract from its available payload. Cab type, wheelbase, and bed are another factor. Basically the same truck line with the same frame, axles/wheels/tires/springs are going to start with the same base payload then the optional equipment will detract from that available payload. "1200lb max" seems laughably low for cargo capacity given that its probably a dry rating without the 20 gallons of fuel, 5 occupants, or their cargo. I would ignore the "1200lb max" sticker and go by GVWR - wet(full fluids across the board) scaled weight. That sticker is intended for those that aren't going to do the effort of scaling it. So yes, absolutely scale it. (don't be surprised if its true payload is 1500lb, or 1000lb...) GVWR in the old days were based on the weakest link. Tire weight capacity, Spring capacity, and Axle weight capacity. Its why the 3/4 ton diesels have laughable payloads compared to their petrol powered counterparts. GCVWR ratings involve several variables. The new standard for testing is SAE J2807. Generally speaking its the maximum amount of weight that the vehicle can safely handle. It involves engine power, braking, and suspension for its calculation. GVWR/GCVWR can be legally increased through an upfitter. Higher capacity springs, swaybars, numerically higher differential ratios, larger brakes, higher capacity tires/wheels, larger cooling systems, axles, etc. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 03:34
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cursedshitbox posted:GCVWR ratings involve several variables. The new standard for testing is SAE J2807. Glad it exists, too, because prior to that GCWR was a loving crapshoot. My WJ Grand Cherokee was seemingly rated on what it could get moving, once, on level ground in subzero temperatures - because doing half that going up a grade in mild ambients was a great way to learn how fast the coolant temperature needle can climb. What about midsize trucks? Colorado/Canyon (excluding ZR2 thanks to the soft suspension) will do 7000lb with the V6, 7700lb with the diesel - and the only real limit there is power versus drag at high speed, which the V6 probably handles better if you're willing to do single digit MPG in exchange for cruising at 70+.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:30
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On the other side of the spectrum, I pull a 7500# trailer with a expedition equipped with the trailer tow package. Coolant/Oil/Transmission temps never budge from the means.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:36
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My father in law has a 1990 Ford F350 diesel dually Crew cap in 2WD. When that thing rolled off the line the paperwork said max towing capacity was 10k and max payload was 1650. He used to haul a boat that weighed 6k and it did just fine, which would be expected, but he did that while he had a heavy-rear end kit-built camper that extended over the whole crew cab and over the back, and loaded with 2 dogs, 2 kids, himself, his morbidly obese wife, and all their fishing gear. At highway speeds. I think back in the day they were just making poo poo up.
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Apr 19, 2021 03:09
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