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sharkytm posted:No. Bad Mef. BAD! I had always thought Japanese vehicles were reliable, but I've read a few times now since posting that Titans are no-go's. Just curious if there's a reason.
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Apr 19, 2021 05:25
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Mef989 posted:I had always thought Japanese vehicles were reliable, but I've read a few times now since posting that Titans are no-go's. Just curious if there's a reason. Everything Nissan makes is hot garbage and has been for years. The only reason it's not in the title next to rentals and salvage titles is because it won't fit. This isn't just from a reliability standpoint, either - they're hateful piles of poo poo to live with, exceeded in the US only by anything FCA makes. Nissan is the deadbeat cousin of Toyota and Honda who keeps having to go back into rehab after relapsing and being found in an alley unconscious with a needle still in his arm. Source: I travelled for 3 years and drove literally hundreds of rentals and rode in thousands of ubers. I really want the new Z to be good 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 05:37
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Nissan is the Chrysler of Japan. They are a subprime lending company that happens to sell cars.
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Apr 19, 2021 06:28
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Guinness posted:Nissan is the Chrysler of Japan. They are a subprime lending company that happens to sell cars. If the new Z is really good I can forgive them for this
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Apr 19, 2021 14:44
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Agreed on the Titan. Also, a 2005 Ford modular motor is not something you want to be dealing with in TYOOL 2021. It's probably on it's factory plugs because nobody wants to dare try to change them. Hard pass.
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Apr 19, 2021 15:10
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Thank you for the responses. After looking at the responses here and from a few other posts I made on Reddit asking, my wife and I are for sure passing on the 2005 F150 and theTitan. We're looking at the Tundra again today. If it isn't what we want (it had a shorter bed but I don't know the specific length so we want to check that out again), we've decided to keep looking and have narrowed to looking for either: 1) 2007 or newer Tundra with the 5.7L V8, or; 2) 2011 or newer 5.0L F150
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Apr 19, 2021 18:03
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Are there any tips for buying car if the model you want is pretty rare and will probably have to be special ordered by the dealership? (Volvo V60 T8 Polestar, if anyone's curious) Seems like you don't have a lot of potential to negotiate in that situation, but I'm hoping someone will tell me I'm wrong about that.
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Apr 19, 2021 18:18
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You have no leverage because it's not on and will never be on the dealers books. Which can be good and bad. You will generally get it for invoice + fees + a non negotiable haircut. You'll know what you're paying immediately, they will probably show you the invoice price catalogue, and you will have no hopes of talking it down. If you try to shop different franchises they probably all land around the same haircut but you may find someone marginally cheaper. If you have access to any car buying services this is their bread and butter and is the only variable way to minimize the fees and dealer haircut.
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Apr 19, 2021 18:26
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What about negotiating power on lot vehicles like the Tacoma that are super popular and relatively low stock (but there are 2-3 on the lot). Im guessing still zero
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Apr 19, 2021 18:41
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Any car on a lot is vulnerable to Just A Bad Month for the dealership. I wouldn't plan on moving the earth on popular class, popular car in class, popular trim on car or especially all of the above. But you can get lucky postponing you trip to a month end or quarter end. And also ask yourself if you're ready to live Car Deal Life where you start shopping somewhat early and just set aside time to visit the dealership every other 25th of the month to re-up your interest, trade in appraisal, and drop dead price. Or really at the same time list your trade in privately. The most latitude in most new car purchases is what you're gonna get on the trade in. AMA about getting ripped off this weekend because I desperately wanted to close before electronics got worse but the dealer I was working with doesn't have a 10+ year used business pipeline. zedprime fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 19:20
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Yeah Im looking at targeting my auto purchase for last week of June
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Apr 19, 2021 19:22
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Guinness posted:Nissan is the Chrysler of Japan. They are a subprime lending company that happens to sell cars. Mitsu is Chrysler Extra in this analogy.
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Apr 19, 2021 19:26
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I currently drive a Fiesta ST and I'm being pulled in two directions. I've been camping and gardening and building more and find myself lacking space in my vehicle. Additionally I have a bit longer commute now on worse roads and the unadjustable sport suspension is starting to wear on me. Also I find I have adapted to the sportiness of the ST as my new baseline and I want more. Currently the only vehicle that satisfies my desire of "more of everything" is the Golf R, which is not outside of my price range but maybe it's time to be a two-car person. I have a pretty good idea of the "fun" car that I want, but I'm sort of spoiled for choice for a daily and would like some suggestions. What I'm looking for: Wagon or Crossover, prefer a wagon because I'm a stick in the mud. New or used: Used Price: $10k-$15k I'm looking for something with enough power that I can manage a short merge or pass a slowpoke on a two-lane road, not-terrible fuel economy, a reasonable chance of getting close to 200k miles without making GBS threads itself completely, a good cargo area behind the rear seat, room for four adults, and a rear seat that folds perfectly flat. Bonus points if that folded flat rear seat area is long enough for a 6'3" person to sleep in the back in a pinch. A brief look at what's on the market shows me The Prius V, Mazda 5, Golf Sportwagen, Scion xB second gen, and various Subarus. Is there anything I'm missing? Is there a no-brainer choice in this range that I am overlooking because of my corssover prejudice?
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Apr 19, 2021 19:27
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Prius V checks none of your boxes except reliability and fuel economy. If your baseline performance level is FiST you will want to die every time you drive it. Various Subarus are mostly slow, but generally fit the bill. CVT not ideal. Mazda5s are all old and busted at this point. I'm biased but I really like our slightly lifted Sportwagen with an APR tune. I came from a FoST and it's a bit less fun to drive hard, but much better built, much more practical, nearly as fast, and rides way more nicely. 200k miles might be a stretch but it's been reliable for the first two years of ownership  You could get a bigger hatchback like a FoST or GTI or Mazda3 or Civic Sport, that might meet your needs before you go full on wagon/crossover. There's also the Hyundai Elantra GT or Kia Rio 5. They are pretty decent and relatively cheaper. At least the Elantra was available with 200hp so that could be an OK compromise. After that, it's CUV time.
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Apr 19, 2021 20:43
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The whole point is this is just a daily driver, I'm not expecting, nor do I really want FiST level performance, just enough that I don't feel unsafe on a short merge and I can keep up freeway speeds on a long hill. Looking for a pure functional appliance vehicle but as I've previously been looking at hot hatches and performance cars I don't really know what's up in the segment. It's the boring car that starts every morning and can take me and friends camping so I'm free to have something bonkers and impractical and unreliable as a fun car. Gangringo fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 22:03
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That wasn't really clear from your post when you described your FiST as your baseline performance  Prius V is too slow for my tastes but is probably fine if you test drive it and can tolerate it. You also have to find one, they're not common. I would check out the old Mazda3 hatch and the Elantra GT as well as the Sportwagen/Alltrack. The Civic hatch is kind of a goofy shape but worth checking out. Fine for long space, not so good for height due to the hatch rake.
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Apr 19, 2021 22:09
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Mef989 posted:My wife and I are looking to get a half ton pickup to tow a camping trailer. We are looking to spend around $20k give or take a few thousand, so our options are somewhat limited, but we think we've found three that could work. I'm hoping to get some direction on which to go with, as well as some ideas on what we should be paying (so that we know what we need to negotiate to). We're in Western Washington. lol at the notion of spending $24k on an 11 year old Nissan anything. Also reputable local dealer doesnt preclude you from being SOL if something expensive breaks the day after you buy it. Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 22:18
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I don't think anything made in the last 20 years is actually dangerously slow, most cars are powerful enough to get out of their owm way. That being said, if you could find a used Toyota Matrix or Pontiac Vibe (same car) they're bulletproof, have amazing space utilization, get good gas milage and can generally be found cheap. An AWD is somewhat unnecessary, and would be horrifically slow but finding a FWD one with a stick they can be kind of fun in their own right.
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Apr 20, 2021 21:04
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Is this priced fairly, and also would it be a bad idea to pay a car payment for a Mazdaspeed 6 as a daily driver? https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/21706351
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Apr 20, 2021 21:06
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I don't think it's a good idea to go in to debt for a 15 year old Mazdaspeed product, no. edit: that you rely on to get to work/school/wherever
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Apr 20, 2021 21:29
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From a tote your note lot, no less.
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Apr 20, 2021 21:34
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IOC will probably be along soon but here's my 2 cents. I wouldn't buy that car if I had to finance it, it was a primary car, and I was not capable of doing my own repairs. If you had one 15 years ago and loved it so much you want another one, it'll be a secondary car and you like working on cars... Maybe. Those things were driven hard, most of the turbo engine cars of the early/mid 2000's were, and usually not taken care of well. Thats why you don't seen many for sale these days. MazdaSpeed, early WRX, SRT-4, CobaltSS. All those cars got passed from 19 year old to 19 year old and eventually scrapped. The dealer website is full of red flags as well. Has the car really been listed for sale for over 1700 days? Why can't you get the VIN number from the dealer website without giving your personal information. Seems shady.
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Apr 20, 2021 21:34
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Alright this is definitely what I need to hear. Thank you for talking me out of this lol.
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Apr 20, 2021 22:17
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skipdogg posted:IOC will probably be along soon but here's my 2 cents. Oh hi there  Completely agree with every sentiment, perhaps even more strongly. I had an 07 Mazdaspeed3 so my car was slightly simpler without AWD, but it's still a high strung car with a bunch of poo poo crammed in tight, from a company without a great track record of reliability. I loved my MS3 but I sold it at the exact right time, perhaps even a year later than I should have. I would not want to own one at this point, not even as a project car. They're too much of a pain to work on, and you will need to work on it. Anything the MS3/MS6 did well, the Focus ST has done better, and that's before you even consider any of the many comparable or better non-FoMoCo options for "fun turbo car".
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Apr 20, 2021 23:32
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Random question that I suspect I already know the answer to, (ie; no such program), but just in case my google-fu is wrong...... Does Acura have any form of an employee/affiliate company/organization for no-haggle pricing? I know Subaru has their VIP Program, (most popular likely the ASPCA 2% under invoice deal), and I previously purchased a CDJR with similar back in the day thanks to an affiliate Wilderness Preservation/Trailhead group. But Im not seeing any such programs for Honda/Acura. Finally looking at retiring our 13 Buick with some issues, and leaning towards an Acura RDX, likely this fall on the hopes a few extra refinements/creature comforts trickle down from other models for MY 22, and every bit helps. Looks like our best bet for a no-haggle but you could still do better deal is the standard Costco/Amex/AARP programs. Just want to ensure Im not missing an easy savings method that exists.
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Apr 22, 2021 02:47
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If youre OK with a slightly used car (and waiting a bit), Acura dealers tend to use RDXs as loaners for a few months then flip them as CPO cars. We got my wifes 2020 RDX as a CPO for $5k off MSRP and it only had like 600 miles on the clock. Normally Id shy away from rentals/loaners, but Acuras CPO warranty is extremely generous (7 years / 100k miles on the powertrain and basically adding two years to the original bumper to bumper warranty) YMMV though as this was right before the used car market went batshit Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 15:11
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Bouillon Rube posted:If youre OK with a slightly used car (and waiting a bit), Acura dealers tend to use RDXs as loaners for a few months then flip them as CPO cars... This it good to know, as Ive got no issues with a CPO to help lessen the hit of a newer vehicle.
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Apr 22, 2021 15:44
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Proposed Budget: under $40k New or Used: either/or Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) 4-door. I dont care if its an suv or a sedan or hatchback. Being able to put a hitch on it for some bikes would be good. How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle? My current drive to work is only 5 miles-this thing is mainly a grocery getter and hauling a toddler and newborn around, so Ill want some space to store things like car seats in the back and a stroller/etc. we have a RAV4 currently that my wife drives to haul the kids around, so this car is mainly for myself and the occasional kid or two thrown in the back. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) yes. CarPlay is a must, heated steering wheel would be great. Blind spot monitors. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) reliability, MPG, and some sportiness. 3. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot. Im in the US. I really would like some luxury items. I initially looked toward a 2019 Lexus ES350 as it checks all the boxes except people say its a bore to drive. The 2019 rav4 we have doesnt have a lot of pickup and the body roll is annoying. Im coming from a new Ford ranger and am contemplating trading it because a) Carvana is offering $2k more than I bought it for, and B) everyone is right-I dont use the truck aspects of it. While I love the power it has, I dont like seeing 17 mpg average, nor all the hard plastic on it.
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Apr 23, 2021 19:59
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Congratulations on your new (lightly used) Stinger GT.
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Apr 23, 2021 20:08
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KillHour posted:Congratulations on your new (lightly used) Stinger GT. I dont live with much snow now, but I could get transferred somewhere with snow. How does RWD do in the snow with snow tires?
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Apr 23, 2021 20:12
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nwin posted:I dont live with much snow now, but I could get transferred somewhere with snow. How does RWD do in the snow with snow tires? it will be perfectly fine unless for some reason you would get transferred to like, Niseko or the Donner Pass
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Apr 23, 2021 20:19
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I'd rather be in a RWD with snow tires than a FWD on all seasons. A better question for my penny pinching self spoiled on southern depreciation curves is if you are still ok throwing 40 grand at something that's now depreciating at the speed of road salt.
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Apr 23, 2021 20:19
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nwin posted:I dont live with much snow now, but I could get transferred somewhere with snow. How does RWD do in the snow with snow tires? I think it would do fine. You can get it in either AWD or RWD and I have the AWD, which is an absolute beast in the snow, even in Buffalo. Both are rear-biased, so I think they wouldn't be too different.
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Apr 23, 2021 20:30
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nwin posted:I dont live with much snow now, but I could get transferred somewhere with snow. How does RWD do in the snow with snow tires? I learned to drive in a 1969 Ford LTD in Michigan without snow tires. It was fine. I never got stuck. It was pretty flat, but RWD does fine in snow. You just have to slow down a bit. It's better with FWD and better yet with snow tires.
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Apr 23, 2021 21:50
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Is truecar still the best website to get a decent estimate for used car pricing? Im assuming it will show all the elevated prices due to COVID but thats fine. Also-sales tax. Carvana offers 37k towards my car and lets say Im looking at a used car at a dealership for $40k but the dealership will only offer me $36k for my trade in. For sales tax, would I pay the difference in taxes ($8k in this example) or would it be the entire $40k? Im trying to figure out if it would be worth it to take the lower trade in since maybe Id make up that difference in sales tax (8k vs 40k). Id be buying in Maryland if that matters. From the Maryland dmv website, this makes me think that if the purchase price is new car minus my trade in, Id only pay taxes on the extra amount: An excise tax will be charged on the basis of 6% of the vehicles book value or 6% of the purchase price on the notarized Bill of Sale for vehicles 7 years old or newer. For older vehicles, the tax is calculated on the purchase price. Marylands minimum excise tax charged is $38.40, based on a minimum value of $640. Edit- gently caress never mind. My state doesnt have a credit. So unless they can beat Carvanas trade-in price, theres no reason to sell my car to them. In seven other states, there is no credit or sales tax reduction when you trade in a car. Those states are California, Hawaii, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Montana and Virginia. If you live in one of these states you calculate sales tax by multiplying the full new car purchase price times the local sales tax rate. Edit2: Im actually curious how Carvana would deal with that if I traded a car in and bought from them. Would the same rules apply or would they do a credit? nwin fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Apr 24, 2021 |
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Apr 23, 2021 23:37
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Are AMC Javelins with the I6 and manual transmissions easily obtainable? A short google search proved fruitless but I feel like that would a be a cool old car to work on (and I seem to remember some of those old I6s being more powerful than a lot of the V8s of the time due to it breathing a lot better.)
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Apr 24, 2021 17:45
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Pretty much any AMC Javelin thats still around is going to be expensive - they tended to rust, there was never that many made, and unlike AMXs(that were always kinda cool), plane-Jane Javelins were driven into the ground then crushed. Manual transmissions were pretty rare except for the Go-Pak hi-perf V8 cars. I think the 3-on-the-tree was the only stick trans available with the six. The AMC I6 was not powerful in the slightest, nor did it breathe worth a poo poo(one-barrel carb, anyone?), but it had enough torque that it was acceptable for people who werent leadfoots, especially behind the automatic. Until the 4.0 AMC with its port injection, all American inline sixes in cars were just something to put in the engine bay for really cheap customers*. *excepting the very rare Pontiac OHC six found in first-gen Firebirds. And maybe that Dart/Valiant Slant Six that was kinda hopped-up from the factory and I think had a four barrel carb.
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Apr 24, 2021 22:55
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Gangringo posted:The whole point is this is just a daily driver, I'm not expecting, nor do I really want FiST level performance, just enough that I don't feel unsafe on a short merge and I can keep up freeway speeds on a long hill. Looking for a pure functional appliance vehicle but as I've previously been looking at hot hatches and performance cars I don't really know what's up in the segment. Look into last model Scion xB's. I'm biased as well since I own one but it pretty much falls into your category, I was looking for the same thing when I decided on it. It has the big 2.4 four cylinder that's in the Camry and has really good torque for a N/A four banger. It never has any problems keeping up and is actually pretty quick off the line for what it is, it honestly surprised me when I first drove it. It handles pretty drat good as well with summer tires, and there is a TRD rear sway available that makes it even better (gonna make that upgrade soon) and of course it's a Toyota so it's very dependable, no issues whatsoever. With the rear seats down you can fit tons of poo poo into it, I can fit two bikes in it with no problems and go on paddling trips with the roof rack loaded up with my board and bike and all the rest fits in the back. I've never needed more space, but if I did it could easily tow a small trailer for extra gear. Also should mention I'm on my second xB because the first one got totaled getting hit head on (overlap) by a drunk driver. The car saved my life.
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Apr 28, 2021 14:42
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Hey, random question; you know how, in laptops, the "sweet spot" for a decent non gaming laptop was $500 but now is reckoned at more like $650? Well, relatedly, I remember when a lot of used car advice on this forum would mention $5k as the break point where you can buy a pretty nice used car; as in, one that isn't just a 20 year old pile of deferred maintenance. So, where would y'all place this price point today, assuming we're talking about cars that were economical when new. I have my own guess but I'd rather hear from others first.
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Apr 29, 2021 14:30
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you can actually still do pretty much fine for $5k imo
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Apr 29, 2021 14:39
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