|
Check the duct setups hangtight designs - no fancy name but they work and print well.
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 15:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 13:51 |
|
|
A lot of my worry/apprehension seems to come from the constant refrain of "If it ain't broke don't gently caress with it" but balanced against "but i can make it better in just a few steps.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 16:02
|
|
|
ok but quit loving with it
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 16:17
|
|
|
Deviant posted:ok but quit loving with it 
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 16:19
|
|
|
You can totally get away with printing a Satsana duct in PLA, by the way. I've got one in ABS on my v2 and another in PLA on my OG Ender 3. Both have hundreds of hours of printing under their belts with no issues. It just doesn't get all that hot where the ducts end, especially with the sock on the heater block. My biggest concern is the rare situation where I need to remove the duct while the nozzle is still hot, since I'm always a little worried about bumping it and melting the plastic. You should still use at least PETG, but it's not going to immediately fail or anything if you've only got PLA on hand. I figure I'll replace mine with ABS when/if it actually fails.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 16:33
|
|
|
Very happy with the part cooling duct on the EVA mount: https://main.eva-3d.page/drives/orbiter/ STEP files are available, so it should be easy to modify to whatever printer you got.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 17:41
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:A lot of my worry/apprehension seems to come from the constant refrain of "If it ain't broke don't gently caress with it" but balanced against "but i can make it better in just a few steps. Is the inability to leave well enough alone not the most Goon-like quality?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 17:42
|
|
|
Serenade posted:Is the inability to leave well enough alone not the most Goon-like quality? Right? I'm happy with it right now. It prints good stuff, the first layer is sometimes funky, but otherwise it makes great PLA prints without much fuss. I've managed to talk myself down from chasing anything else (auto levelers/touch, silent boards, new/fancier extruders etc, or chasing high speed printing), but am printing the duct for the next time i have to clean a clog/end up taking the hot end apart again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 17:57
|
|
|
i had a shower inspiration that 3d printers are just like airsoft guns in that the easiest way to turn a working one into a non working one is to open it and gently caress with it
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 18:56
|
|
|
Deviant posted:i had a shower inspiration that 3d printers are just like airsoft guns in that the easiest way to turn a working one into a non working one is to open it and gently caress with it Also murphy's law of talking about how happy you are with how its working, and now I'm getting quite crappy raft/brims: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Also murphy's law of talking about how happy you are with how its working, and now I'm getting quite crappy raft/brims: Given that your brim is worse on the corners, looks like an X/Y axis problem, like loose screws in your frame, or you've got this thing sitting on a wobbly card table, maybe bad PLA too? It's really interesting to see people posting these terrible prints, but my ender 3 has been printing near-injection molding quality stuff out of the box since I got it; like, this has been a solved technology for about four years now and people are still posting stuff that looks like it was printed on 2012 era reprap stuff Edit: you're printing on an ender 3 pro? Wtf did you do to your printer Hadlock fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Apr 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 19:41
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Given that your brim is worse on the corners, looks like an X/Y axis problem, like loose screws in your frame, or you've got this thing sitting on a wobbly card table, maybe bad PLA too? This has been mostly hit, with some initial missteps due to a loose X gantry. It's on a largish bookshelf on the side of the room/not in a place that gets bumped/nudged often. I went through 3 other spools of Sunlu PLA and things have been almost perfect till this spool, and I understand white can also be more finicky, but this is just odd, and mostly constrained to the first layer. Like everything else has been     
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 19:51
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:This has been mostly hit, with some initial missteps due to a loose X gantry. I have no idea, what that is, but i want it  could you post a link for the model?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 20:07
|
|
|
Dr Sun Try posted:I have no idea, what that is, but i want it Totoro! I print the smallest one at like 25% when i want to kill that last couple feet of filament.  Edit: yup, everything but the first layer is great  
toplitzin fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Apr 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 20:09
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Totoro! I had something really similar to this dumb bullshit. Make sure your z axis is straight up and down. If not the little bracket on top of the motor needs some washers been it and the frame to make it vertical.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2021 22:28
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Edit: yup, everything but the first layer is great It turns out, even DEEPLY UNDEREXTRUDED parts look good. And can look AMAZING. What slicer are you using?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 01:10
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Totoro! Can you take a picture of the underside of that bridge?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 01:10
|
|
|
SchnorkIes posted:Can you take a picture of the underside of that bridge? it only LOOKS like a big bridge. I made a note of people not designing things to be printed? The Satsana has a maximum bridge of like.. 15mm? (I checked, it's 16mm) Everything else is supported by at most a 45 deg angle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 01:32
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Also murphy's law of talking about how happy you are with how its working, and now I'm getting quite crappy raft/brims: That's not just the brim, that whole print is underextruded by a lot. If you're still using the stock plastic ender extruder i'll give you three guesses as to what the problem is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 01:41
|
|
|
If I print slow and have an octopi and octoprint set up, will I benefit from adding Klipper into the mix?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 02:20
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:If I print slow and have an octopi and octoprint set up, will I benefit from adding Klipper into the mix? I have a massive fetish for klipper, and I had converted my CR-30 in less than 3 hours after getting it, yet I do say if your existing workflow is working and there's nothing about klipper's feature set that's telling you you must have, don't. It does leave a lot of other firmwares looking quite lackluster in the QoL department, but the overhead is you do need that Pi for your printer to work at all, and I'd really strongly advise using mainsail, fluidd or dwc instead of octoprint as the integration is much better. tl;dr if you're not looking to live your life a quarter mile at a time, stick with your existing workflow.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 03:37
|
|
|
A friend just gifted me his MMU2S because he had a shitload of problems with it and wanted to go back to just having a working printer So now I've got a fully assembled MMU, but none of the extruder parts, which is fine because, well, they're all printable  But I don't know what this threaded insert is. Some sort of PTFE fitting but I'm not sure exactly what I need. Anyone know? e: also a comment in the assembly guide recommended swapping out the 2mm ID PTFE in the hotend for a 1.85 ID one, but all I can find searching around is more 2mm, unless I buy it from Prusa and... well buying $1 of PTFE and having it shipped from Prague seems silly e2: whatever gently caress it textured sheets for the mini are in stock so I'm just gonna order the sheet and some PTFE and the couple of MMU parts I need Sockser fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Apr 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 07:43
|
|
|
Sockser posted:also a comment in the assembly guide recommended swapping out the 2mm ID PTFE in the hotend for a 1.85 ID one, but all I can find searching around is more 2mm, unless I buy it from Prusa and... well buying $1 of PTFE and having it shipped from Prague seems silly Capricorn bowden tube is smaller than 2mm - common mod for enders and should be available locally
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 08:25
|
|
|
Sockser posted:A friend just gifted me his MMU2S because he had a shitload of problems with it and wanted to go back to just having a working printer I have no idea if this is correct but this MMU clone build BOM section calls this an Mk3 nut which kind of looks like the metal hardware in the picture, if the base is actually that wide flange bit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33018853818.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 09:43
|
|
|
What's the current hotness as far as a quick calibration print for eliminating stringing on a delta printer? I got my Delta Pro running pretty much smoothly again but I need to adjust the retraction/wipe settings to eliminate stringing between layers in PLA (currently running prints at 190C and I'm hesitant to go any cooler because I really don't want to deal with clogging the head again, so it's down to adjusting other settings and I need a quick-to-print object suggestion).
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 10:43
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:That's either being to high off the bed, or underextrusion. Prusa
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 15:31
|
|
|
I let a print run overnight, and came back to this: There are something like 5 significant layer shifts on this print. I had a minor layer shift issue on the satsana duct I did right before this, but prior to that everything had been running flawlessly. I changed to a 32 bit board recently, but I've been using the same settings (stock Cura profile except bumped up to 70mm/s) so I don't know how that could have affected anything. Any thoughts on how this happens? Belt tension seems okay, but I don't really have anything to compare it to. Baronash fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Apr 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 16:24
|
|
|
Baronash posted:Belt tension seems okay, but I don't really have anything to compare it to. Belt tension or the pulley slipping on the motor shaft.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 16:35
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Prusa I'm going with you've got a clog, or something. Baronash posted:I let a print run overnight, and came back to this: Here's what I'm reading: I changed from a 1970's pickup to a 2021 SUV. I'm driving the same, why do I keep hitting curbs? Wait, I also decided to press the accelerator harder. And the floormats are the same. You changed boards, your printer is 85% the controller board. You can't assume anything is correct on the new board. Check all the current settings. (Current, as in stepper motor current... You'll most likely need a DMM to do it.) You also said "32 bit board" which... doesn't matter so much, as the drivers do. Most of the time when people talk about switching to a 32 bit board, they're really talking about switching to a board with "silent" drivers. Silent drivers have less torque... so that too says you might need to crank up the current a little. (Silent motor drivers are less good for your printer, but quiet is nice) Unless you changed your belts, why would you even mention your belt tension? Since you bring it up, your belts should "ring" when plucked. So long as you get "some kind of note" when you pluck a belt, you're gonna be ok. They should not be slack, or really, sag at all. Edit: I think i'm cranky.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 16:45
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:I'm going with you've got a clog, or something. Clog is love. Clog is life. I'll tear it down and since i'll be in there, go ahead and install the ducting, and do all the verification stuff again and report back with a freshly printed boat. Slicer question: is tree supports a cura only thing?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 16:59
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Clog is love. Clog is life. I've had trouble with white filament in general. My "USUAL" method for dealing with clogs is to crank the heat up to something stupid, and push 100-200mm through the nozzle. Cheap filamenet often has "stuff that isn't the right plastic" in it, and often that has a higher melting temp. That eventually adds up to a clog. (I usually run a higher temp, in general...) Tree's are cura only, for the moment. But not for long.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 17:13
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Here's what I'm reading: I changed from a 1970's pickup to a 2021 SUV. I'm driving the same, why do I keep hitting curbs? Wait, I also decided to press the accelerator harder. And the floormats are the same. I didn't bump up the speed for the new board, I ran at 70mm/s on the old control board as well. Nerobro posted:Unless you changed your belts, why would you even mention your belt tension? Since you bring it up, your belts should "ring" when plucked. So long as you get "some kind of note" when you pluck a belt, you're gonna be ok. They should not be slack, or really, sag at all.  Nerobro posted:You changed boards, your printer is 85% the controller board. You can't assume anything is correct on the new board. Check all the current settings. (Current, as in stepper motor current... You'll most likely need a DMM to do it.) You also said "32 bit board" which... doesn't matter so much, as the drivers do. Most of the time when people talk about switching to a 32 bit board, they're really talking about switching to a board with "silent" drivers. Silent drivers have less torque... so that too says you might need to crank up the current a little. (Silent motor drivers are less good for your printer, but quiet is nice) Sweet, I can do that. This is the first I'm hearing of this. Creality sends a "manual" consisting of a one sheet wiring diagram and the installation videos I watched talked about these boards as being largely plug and play.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 17:15
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Clog is love. Clog is life. If you're still using the stock Ender extruder, that's probably the cause of your underextrusion. Check to see if it's cracked.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 17:23
|
|
|
3D-Noob-Report incoming! Over the last days I printed so, so much. For Software I decided to stay with PrusaSlicer (after MatterControl and Creality Slicer wasted some time) and then send the files via Pronterface directly to the printer. I took my time with calibrating, couldn't remove some stringing yet but I hope this will be fixed with the new filament. Also I have a good idea on which parts I can max out the print speed. After printing some smaller stuff (and having prints gently caress up soooo many times)  I looked at this poo poo and had my first project:  I learned some basics of TinkerCad  and printed this (0.20mm):  Looks alright and is strong enough!  And it only took like 700 hours or whatever. Not pictured: Boxes of all my misprints, I don't have a wide angle lens for my camera.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 17:31
|
|
|
Dr. Fishopolis posted:If you're still using the stock Ender extruder, that's probably the cause of your underextrusion. Check to see if it's cracked. no cracks and running as direct drive. Had a re-print of a part last night with over extrusion issues. so cleaning and starting fresh. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 17:33
|
|
|
Yikes. Time to recalibrate your e-steps.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 17:56
|
|
|
Baronash posted:I didn't bump up the speed for the new board, I ran at 70mm/s on the old control board as well. Current settings are the easiest thing for me to believe with what you've said. Those are intended to be drop in boards though so I'm surprised that they wouldn't come well configured. That said the old board could have just been set higher than the new board, and thus more able to go fast. If you move the carriage do you feel any binding? It's possible (unlikely, as I don't believe it comes with any default profiles) that your slicer is overriding the motor current settings in the start gcode. Look for a m906 or 907 code. The old board would have ignored it, as it wouldn't have been able to set it. I've also seen similar layer shifts with overheating drivers. It's possible the current is too high, too little airflow, or a stepper with a short, or some other problem on the board causing higher than expected ambient temperature. If possible try pointing a fan at the board. toplitzin posted:no cracks and running as direct drive. We just had someone with under extrusion caused by turning on mm3 mode on the printer. Any chance you might have turned it on in the slicer without turning it on in the printer?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 18:49
|
|
|
Aurium posted:Current settings are the easiest thing for me to believe with what you've said. Those are intended to be drop in boards though so I'm surprised that they wouldn't come well configured. That said the old board could have just been set higher than the new board, and thus more able to go fast. If you move the carriage do you feel any binding? BTW It's easy to do if you're poking around the menus and don't exactly know what it is. I've done it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 19:39
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good "How It's Made" type video for 3D printers / 3D printing? I've been printing of his aways for my fiance's class for good behavior and with the end of the year coming up it might make for something interesting to watch on the last day of school.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 19:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 13:51 |
|
|
Maigius posted:Does anyone have a good "How It's Made" type video for 3D printers / 3D printing? I've been printing of his aways for my fiance's class for good behavior and with the end of the year coming up it might make for something interesting to watch on the last day of school. I mean, literally https://youtu.be/f4RGU2jXQiE
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2021 20:05
|
|