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Verviticus posted:at this point i dont even know if these morons know they're allowed to shut things down The real slap in the face is the US CDC saying DO NOT travel to Canada. Shoes on the other foot now eh chaps? (JK it is terrible here)
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Apr 9, 2021 00:00
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honestly canadians are dumb enough the US doing that probably had a higher chance of making our governments act than like, people dying
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Apr 9, 2021 00:02
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I'm looking for a pair of good crack climbing/multipitch shoes. Problem is that most 'all day'/trad shoes tend to have a flat last and my feet have very high arches. The best fitting shoes for me are the more agressive/asymmetric La Sportivas, especially the Testarossas but also Pythons, Solutions and Miuras. They are all downturned which make them tiring for long days on vert terrain plus their tall toe boxes make them poor for jamming.
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Apr 11, 2021 12:10
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I settled on TC Pros for my long multi-pitch shoes a few years back and have been very happy with them. I can't say that they have notable arch support though. It's not really a thing I've thought about with climbing shoes. I have normal arches, neither higher nor lower than usual.
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Apr 11, 2021 12:18
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Anasazi Pinks might work for you. I forget if 5.10 sells them on odd years though.
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Apr 11, 2021 14:17
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Maybe the Evolv Generals? They're kinda like TC Pros but with a slight downturn.
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Apr 11, 2021 15:04
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Anecdotally, I've seen a LOT of TC Pros on people's feet when I'm out in big multipitch areas. My last big trip before covid was Tuolumne Meadows, and it seemed like 75% of the parties my partner and I ran into over the week we were there were wearing them.
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Apr 11, 2021 15:34
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If you like Miura lace ups, the TC Pro is the way to go. I don't know if I'd call it a crack shoe though, it's a lot like a high top Miura with a padded toe box. The padded toe box is great if you have bigger cracks, but if you are working on finger cracks, the toe is a little big to get wedged into place. I have about 6 pairs of TC Pros, and they replaced Miuras and Testarossas for me, the high ankle lets you heel hook like an aggressive shoe, while the flat bottom is great for edging. I used to have real ankle issues, and a few bad slab falls had me hobbling about. Since moving to the high top TC Pros, I feel like I have not had as many issues with hurting things. I tried 5.10 Grand Stones and Boreal Ballet Golds back when I got hooked on TC Pros to see if I could get the same results at a lower price, and found that the feel was way worse, the rubber was bad (on the Boreals), and they just felt clunky. The TC Pro is more like a comfortable Miura. With the flat bottom, you can really get a ton of resoles out of them, which is why I have so many pairs, I'd resole a couple of them, and buy a new pair while I waited.
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Apr 13, 2021 16:42
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Sab669 posted:
Got my training plan and had my first session with a coach. The plan is periodized month to month, starting with base fitness/strength, moving through strength/strength endurance to power/power endurance into a performance phase. The plan is structured around my climbing schedule and available equipment at home, and also incorporates some of my preferred structure from before: i.e. one day of social climbing with gym buddies and a lighter volume day when I usually rope climb with my wife. This was all based on a short set of questions on training history and short and long term goals. As far as in person instruction, he helped choose the climbs for 4x4s and gave some feedback on things to focus on when doing them; the most useful tip was to focus on breathing steadily even on easier terrain. Specific to body tension, he added bumps on campus rungs with feet on as far as I could reach. I cant say I ever would have thought to do them but they seemed to tick both the tension and finger strength boxes for me. Its only one workout but the overall plan seems to make sense. Ill let you all know when Im flashing Return of the Sleepwalker in 6 months 
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Apr 14, 2021 20:03
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Central Rock Buddy. I'm at their Buffalo gym and went to the Worcester gym once and it was much harder - although I was recovering from an injury, and climbed the day prior at Lincoln Woods.
2 shoulder injuries in only 2 years of climbing, I don't need to do those problems. Which is a real shame because they're setting a lot of 'em, lately.
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After 2 months without gym we had 3 weeks with gym opened and now everything is closed again. Thankfully the weather is good and it's now outdoor season so we can climb outside even if that makes it hard to go climb when you have just 2 hours off. To make short climbing days possible, we've started hunting down rocks that are climbable around the city and quickly available and found a few cool things and started creating problems. Finding/creating problems on real rock is crazy fun and there's quite a bit of pride in being the "creator" of a problem. Sometimes rock that looks very meh ends up being so fun and you can create really nice problems.
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Apr 14, 2021 20:51
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wzm posted:If you like Miura lace ups, the TC Pro is the way to go. I don't know if I'd call it a crack shoe though, it's a lot like a high top Miura with a padded toe box. The padded toe box is great if you have bigger cracks, but if you are working on finger cracks, the toe is a little big to get wedged into place. The BD Aspects kinda fit the bill for me and are designed for jamming with covered lacing, top rubber and flat toe boxes. Prob is that they are stiff shoes. Both stiff last and stiff syntethic leather. I prefer more sensitivity. The search goes on...
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Apr 16, 2021 07:35
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I hope I don't see a bug while I'm climbing outside I climbed outside and saw a bug and the bug attacked me  I actually went to a sort of lousy crag inside the city in a park that used to be a quarry where people mostly practice dry tooling and teens get drunk and hurl bottles so there's broken glass everywhere last week on a whim and the landings for everything except a few problems above my pay grade or required me to put too much pressure on my jacked finger were really lovely or being worked on by other people. Also a bunch of problems were covered in moss.
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Apr 19, 2021 17:47
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yeah i went to west van somewhere on saturday and basically had to brush all the climbs because they were all covered still. and its looking like going to squamish is illegal as of today so
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Apr 19, 2021 23:26
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How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full.
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Apr 19, 2021 23:56
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Verviticus posted:honestly canadians are dumb enough the US doing that probably had a higher chance of making our governments act than like, people dying Can you expand on that? I have been eyeing a trip to Squamish this year, but I have no idea whats going to happen with the border (was hoping for august)
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Apr 20, 2021 02:12
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Sigmund Fraud posted:I get crazy foot cramps in TC pros. I believe its cause there's so much empty space under the foot arches... Have you tried Skwamas? They're more sensitive, and are likely to fit you if solutions and pythons work for your foot. They'll be downturned out of the box but they'll flatten as you break them in. Katana laces are also popular among the TC Pro crowd and they're not as flat, maybe give them a shot.
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Apr 20, 2021 03:27
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SwashedBuckles posted:Got my training plan and had my first session with a coach. The plan is periodized month to month, starting with base fitness/strength, moving through strength/strength endurance to power/power endurance into a performance phase. Are you working with John H?
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Apr 20, 2021 03:27
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Ubiquitus posted:Can you expand on that? I have been eyeing a trip to Squamish this year, but I have no idea whats going to happen with the border (was hoping for august) It has been closed since last March. The US CDC now says don't go to Canada...which you can't anyways. I would not hold my breath for an August opening.
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Apr 20, 2021 04:30
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spwrozek posted:It has been closed since last March. The US CDC now says don't go to Canada...which you can't anyways. The new COVID variants are out of control in BC right now and they are even restricting movement within the province. Even people who live in Vancouver BC can't go to Squamish right now. I would bet a lot of money against being able to go to Squamish in August.
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Apr 20, 2021 05:10
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actually hilariously enough, if you live in vancouver or north van you can go to squamish because its the same health authority, but you cant go across boundary because you will instantly diebvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full. it was here. there were parking spots in the lot itself and we saw exactly one other group. all-in-all quite nice
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Apr 20, 2021 07:02
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Electoral Surgery posted:Are you working with John H? Nah, working with Keith at the Randolph gym.
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Apr 20, 2021 13:19
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:How was the crowd for access to the area where you were (Grouse? Or out near Horseshoe Bay?)? I had to park about a 30 minute walk away from the trailhead when I was at Lynn Valley for a hike on Saturday because all the closer lots were full. forgot to ask: are you in fraser health or coastal health authority
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Apr 20, 2021 22:38
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Verviticus posted:forgot to ask: are you in fraser health or coastal health authority I'm in Vancouver Coastal, I live in Vancouver proper
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Apr 21, 2021 02:47
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Verviticus posted:when i dropped 15lb from 210ish to 195ish i jumped two grades but this time i've gone from 195 to 185 so far and havent seen any improvement... hoping that last 5lbs makes the difference I used to cycle up and down around 10 pounds and ultimately ended up giving up on worrying about it in 2019 and had the best climbing season ever with multiple onsights at 12c and my first 13a send. I think this was because I was able to constantly focus on and having the energy to just try harder.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:22
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yeah that makes sense and lines up with a lot of people's experiences, but for whatever reason caloric deficits (at the amount i run them at, ~400-600 calories a day i guess, first cut was almost 1k a day) dont really mess with my energy level negatively
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Apr 22, 2021 00:08
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SwashedBuckles posted:Nah, working with Keith at the Randolph gym. He is a good dude and I was psyched when he started working at CRG. When we first moved out of the city, I was still going to the South Boston gym once a week just to climb every problem with his name on it.
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Apr 23, 2021 13:24
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Caf posted:He is a good dude and I was psyched when he started working at CRG. When we first moved out of the city, I was still going to the South Boston gym once a week just to climb every problem with his name on it. For sure, hes always upbeat and friendly and his sets are consistently great.
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Apr 24, 2021 12:03
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In our quest to do some rock climbing while everything is closed and good crags are too far away, we started doing no hands slab type stuff. 10/10 would recommend https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v4es2mJpwc
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Apr 24, 2021 14:37
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 Here's some more no-handed content https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yCaSpCdAgo
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Apr 24, 2021 19:06
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I love crag dogs
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Apr 24, 2021 19:14
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Endjinneer posted:
that looks like funnnnnn. We were joking about finding a spot where we could do top-rope no hand climbing.... Now I want to really do it
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Apr 24, 2021 19:27
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At what grade is it ok to start doing power grunts/screams (not Adam Ondra forevershrieks but short, sharp, and well timed gutteral yells)
bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Apr 25, 2021 |
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Apr 25, 2021 20:05
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V0 and 5.6
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Apr 25, 2021 20:16
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George H.W. oval office posted:V0 and 5.6 
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Apr 25, 2021 20:45
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If you're giving a top rope belay, a power grunt when you give your climber a dyno assist is also acceptable.
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Apr 25, 2021 20:56
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grunts are ideal if you whip them out rarely enough that nobody expects them but if you do them loudly and often you can habituate and become tolerant
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Apr 25, 2021 21:26
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George H.W. oval office posted:V0 and 5.6 Gonna start making yodels and woohoos when I warm up on downclimbs I guess I'm starting to project the next grade at my gym now, which is 4 honeycombs (V4-6)... The green in this image  I think this is sort of my style of problem since when I started doing 3 hex problems (V2-4) it was similar stuff -- Slight overhang to vertical, burly-ish moves that my fat rear end can shoot for dynamically. But also I think there may be a new setter at the gym and maybe they set lighter, who knows. I'm also starting to like pinches, like, a lot
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Apr 25, 2021 22:53
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that green is a little soft for a 4hex i think but i really enjoyed the problem because all of my short friends who hate dynos were still able to get it did you do the red 4 right beside it before they reset it last week
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Apr 26, 2021 00:25
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That two colour problem with the yellow around thing as more holds jammed as close as possible than I've ever seen. Pretty cool for younger kids. At my gyms kids problem never go that high. Also yelling and grunting is ok all the time if it's helping you.
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Apr 26, 2021 01:53
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yeah the bumblebee holds are explicitly there for people who cant climb v0 or are concerned about going too high without good feet. theyre all over the gym and also a ladder to get down from the top out area
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Apr 26, 2021 04:34
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