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Deviant posted:can confirm, even my amateur drywall repairs are fine unpainted. i get a little dust if i rub my hand on it, but that's no more than i'd expect crumbling is an overstatement but I still don't want drywall dust on my poo poo! I threw a coat of primer on it and it seems to be sticking just fine so hopefully that about does it.
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Apr 21, 2021 21:59
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How do the “I want to buy your house sight-unseen” cold callers usually get phone numbers? They call my cell phone several times a week and always know my full name and address. If there’s a specific government record I can take my cell number off of, I’d like to do so.
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Apr 21, 2021 22:48
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eddiewalker posted:How do the “I want to buy your house sight-unseen” cold callers usually get phone numbers? H110Hawk posted:I mean you guys are having them send inspectors out to your houses right? And then being confused and insulted when they show up because what are you talking about I never spoke to someone about selling my house who is <name>? No one by that name lives here get off my property. x-post
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Apr 21, 2021 23:45
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eddiewalker posted:How do the “I want to buy your house sight-unseen” cold callers usually get phone numbers? I'm not 100% sure but I regularly get texts to my cell phone from people looking to buy the house but they address me as my father. The only place I can think of that we used my cell phone number and his name (and this started immediately after) was my mother's death certificate at the funeral home so I'd imagine there's some public records they prune through that involve importing any data from that. They're vultures.
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Apr 22, 2021 02:25
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eddiewalker posted:How do the “I want to buy your house sight-unseen” cold callers usually get phone numbers? i've been texting them simpsons gifs for 6 months now
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Apr 22, 2021 02:32
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Rexxed posted:I'm not 100% sure but I regularly get texts to my cell phone from people looking to buy the house but they address me as my father. The only place I can think of that we used my cell phone number and his name (and this started immediately after) was my mother's death certificate at the funeral home so I'd imagine there's some public records they prune through that involve importing any data from that. They're vultures. Hah. This is the same with me but they have my dad's address.
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Apr 22, 2021 03:04
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I keep getting calls about a property I don't own. So I just gently caress with them for a bit and hope they stop calling. Edit: don't own. Never owned no one I know owned.
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Apr 22, 2021 03:24
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Deviant posted:i've been texting them simpsons gifs for 6 months now I sent the last one the Dr Evil "one million dollars" gif. I was kinda bummed they didn't respond. Kicker is they were inquiring about a property no one in my family owns and one I never lived in myself, was just a property my parents rented for a couple years between houses.
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Apr 22, 2021 04:12
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I get a text from people asking to buy occasionally, I always say $1 Million and it’s yours. No takers yet!
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Apr 22, 2021 04:23
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eddiewalker posted:How do the “I want to buy your house sight-unseen” cold callers usually get phone numbers? They're getting your name from the title the same way the refi scammers do, then they're looking for phone numbers associated with your name. You could try putting your number on the Do Not Call registry but only legitimate businesses actually heed that, and my guess is these guys aren't on the up and up. I have in the past had success telling certain types of small businesses, with conviction, "I'm on the loving Do Not Call registry, if you call me again I WILL report you." If they just laugh at you they know the FTC is completely toothless, but it works on a particular brand of dipshit.
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Apr 22, 2021 05:31
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So I have a straight 40 foot run of roofline on the back of my house I want gutters on, with downspouts on either side going to rain barrels. It’s a straight line, no bends other than what would go to the downspouts. How hard of a project would this be for a moderate DIYer? I’ve never messed with gutters other than to clean them once a year. The only quote I’ve been able to get was for like $2300 for the base option which seemed... high.
skylined! fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 14:16
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I mean they're not that hard to put up unless you want seamless I think I put up around 40ft worth on my garage for around 200bux or so with the help of a friend.
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Apr 22, 2021 17:17
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Late to the Sub Zero chat but we just went through this decision as part of a compete kitchen redesign and renovation and came to the conclusion that other options were better for what we wanted. Sub Zeros have a very good reputation and people who know who bought them swear they keep food longer, but it sounded a bit like rationalizing their outlay. We wanted two column units and the Sub Zeros was like $20k or something. The standalone reefer/freezer combinations also have this big condenser grill at the top that we didn’t like. They are definitely touted in real estate listings in the $900k plus range, but hard to justify the price unless price really isn’t an issue. I do like their designer line though.
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Apr 22, 2021 17:47
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tater_salad posted:I mean they're not that hard to put up unless you want seamless I think I put up around 40ft worth on my garage for around 200bux or so with the help of a friend. It's not this simple. You need to figure out what the slopes are and whatnot and make sure the high point is in the middle. No clue at what rate they're supposed to slope but definitely don't make it straight!
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Apr 22, 2021 19:02
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falz posted:It's not this simple. You need to figure out what the slopes are and whatnot and make sure the high point is in the middle. No clue at what rate they're supposed to slope but definitely don't make it straight! 1/2" per 10ft so over 40ft you'd want to drop 2"
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Apr 22, 2021 19:11
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tater_salad posted:1/2" per 10ft so over 40ft you'd want to drop 2" High point's in the middle, so you only need to consider half the distance for each side. 1" drop over 20' on each side of the middle. If it was a 40' run with a single discharge at one end, then yes it would be 2" over the entire 40' run.
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Apr 22, 2021 19:41
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Don't be a coward, make it do a loop!
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Apr 22, 2021 19:44
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The Science Goy posted:High point's in the middle, so you only need to consider half the distance for each side. 1" drop over 20' on each side of the middle. right I'd probalby do 2 discharges but no clue what the OP was thining about. I'd say call some other estimates as that seems a little high. but everything seems pretty high right now.
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Apr 22, 2021 19:45
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tater_salad posted:right I'd probalby do 2 discharges but no clue what the OP was thining about. First quote I got said material for aluminum was low so it’s mostly labor, and he said itd take a few hours. I’m in the wrong business. I’m waiting for two other companies to return my request for a quote, apparently they’re real busy though because it’s been a week! mutata posted:Don't be a coward, make it do a loop! Considering running it through some radiators and into my office desktop computer as well. Thanks for the info yall, I may just be able to make a straight line of metal on my roof for the water to go away. skylined! fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2021 20:26
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skylined! posted:First quote I got said material for aluminum was low so it’s mostly labor, and he said itd take a few hours. I’m in the wrong business. I'd be surprised if it took a few hours for them, when they came and did my house they were entirely gone in <2 hours for ~100ft of gutter and 4 downspouts (but it was priced along with siding, so I can't tell you how much it was) I'd guess a big part of that fee is just their cost for showing up, because it's such a small job they really don't want to bother.
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Apr 22, 2021 21:12
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skylined! posted:So I have a straight 40 foot run of roofline on the back of my house I want gutters on, with downspouts on either side going to rain barrels. It’s a straight line, no bends other than what would go to the downspouts. How hard of a project would this be for a moderate DIYer? I’ve never messed with gutters other than to clean them once a year. The only quote I’ve been able to get was for like $2300 for the base option which seemed... high. From memory a few years ago, we got: 2x 40 foot sections replaced + new downspouts (existing was under-sized) 1x 25 foot section replaced (existing was damaged) 1x 25 foot section re-hung (just putting the proper slope on it) Top tier leaf guard added to all of the above ~$3,200 It was one guy who was the owner + two college kids doing it as a summer gig. He also apologized a half dozen times for how expensive it was because he couldn't reuse the two long sections that were under-sized. e: quoted OP instead of last post
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Apr 22, 2021 22:25
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For all of you well dwellers out there, do any of you have a constant pressure system? Is it worth the extra cost? I’m having a new well drilled for our new construction and the price difference is $9,000 for constant pressure pump vs $7,000 for a normal well pump and large pressure bladder. It seems like it would be really nice to have a constant 60 psi water pressure and not have to deal with 30-60psi like you get from a pressure bladder. It uses a larger 3 phase motor that spins at just the right speed to match the current water demand, instead of just on or off like a normal pump. I’m waiting to hear back if there is a difference in warranty between the two systems.
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Apr 23, 2021 15:09
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I wouldn't think it's worth it. Just adjust your pressure tank to a narrower or higher target range if that's what you need - mine is set at 70/50. Personally we don't really notice the difference between the pressures, but your house might be different. There's also only two of us, so we're not doing things like having two showers running while the dishwasher is going. If you've got a big family with lots of water use at the same time it may change the equation. e: If you have frequent power outages you'll have a lot less water available when the powers out with a constant pressure system. With a standard setup, you have the volume of water within the pressure tank, I believe constant pressure systems usually have a significantly smaller volume tank. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Apr 23, 2021 |
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Apr 23, 2021 15:38
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Build a backyard water tower/elevated tank! You'll have consistent, gravity-fed pressure without having to rely on a fancy pump with a lot of moving parts (aka points of failure) and if the power goes out you still have water pressure and a supply of water. I'm not being completely facetious. I saw a well question and was like, oh maybe I can answer that! but then saw it was about pressure pumps and bladders which I know nothing about because for their house in the country, my parents solved the pressure problem with a de facto water tower - well is on the other side of a hill from the house, so water gets pumped from the well into a tank on top of the hill and then gravity fed to the house. Works great when there is actually water coming out of the well.
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Apr 23, 2021 16:16
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TrueChaos posted:I wouldn't think it's worth it. Just adjust your pressure tank to a narrower or higher target range if that's what you need - mine is set at 70/50. Personally we don't really notice the difference between the pressures, but your house might be different. Typical high end setup here is both a full size weltrol (pressure bladder) tank and a variable speed pump. If you have things like multiple showers/washing machine going and your well produces enough it's a good setup, but it's really a solution for a large home with a bunch of people in it. And the inside plumbing to make it worthwhile. That's a big one. (if you've got a bunch of 1/2 copper everywhere this will not do much of anything - if you've got PEX home runs everywhere fed by 3/4" or larger to the manifold along with a suitable flowing tankless water heater you have full pressure, full heat to every tap in your house all day every day)
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Apr 23, 2021 16:42
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A 3-phase motor has way fewer moving parts. No start/run capacitors to wear out, no cap bypass switch, no relay to start it: just a solid state VFD. I know gently caress all about well pump systems, but I know a bunch about motor controls. Seems like a simple enough application, but I'm sure there's details that make it more complicated. In my head, this should be pretty straight forward and be more simple in the long run.
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Apr 23, 2021 16:44
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DaveSauce posted:A 3-phase motor has way fewer moving parts. No start/run capacitors to wear out, no cap bypass switch, no relay to start it: just a solid state VFD. Yeah, this too. They slap a VFD next to your weltrol tank/pressure switch. If anything's gonna fail, it's that. So at least you're not pulling up a few hundred feet of well line to get at it for replacement. My foot valve is bad so I'm going to be doing this at some point. If I've got to pull the well anyway I'm drat sure gonna replace everything at the bottom, and this it the right way to do it for my place.
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Apr 23, 2021 16:45
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Modus Man posted:For all of you well dwellers out there, do any of you have a constant pressure system? Is it worth the extra cost? I’m having a new well drilled for our new construction and the price difference is $9,000 for constant pressure pump vs $7,000 for a normal well pump and large pressure bladder. It seems like it would be really nice to have a constant 60 psi water pressure and not have to deal with 30-60psi like you get from a pressure bladder.
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Apr 23, 2021 17:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I assume you/your contractor have checked that you already have 3 phase power? Because getting that run to your house could easily be $10k on its own if not. They don't require 3 phase power, just 240 split phase like most other residential well pumps. The magic of the variable speed and making three phase power is in the VFD that gets installed with it.
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Apr 23, 2021 17:54
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Motronic posted:They don't require 3 phase power, just 240 split phase like most other residential well pumps. The magic of the variable speed and making three phase power is in the VFD that gets installed with it.
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Apr 23, 2021 17:58
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You can also get VFDs that take 120V single phase input. The 240V split phase VFD will be cheaper and more efficient, but if you're forced you can do 120V. 3ph motors are very robust, efficient, cheap, and plentiful.
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Apr 23, 2021 18:48
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Motronic posted:Typical high end setup here is both a full size weltrol (pressure bladder) tank and a variable speed pump. If you have things like multiple showers/washing machine going and your well produces enough it's a good setup, but it's really a solution for a large home with a bunch of people in it. And the inside plumbing to make it worthwhile. That's a big one. (if you've got a bunch of 1/2 copper everywhere this will not do much of anything - if you've got PEX home runs everywhere fed by 3/4" or larger to the manifold along with a suitable flowing tankless water heater you have full pressure, full heat to every tap in your house all day every day) Believe me I do understand what's involved with them, I'm an engineer who designs water and wastewater treatment systems for a living. Given it's a retrofit situation, I personally doubt it would be beneficial in this application unless the downstream system is properly designed for a constant pressure application, and you've got a lot of high water usage fixtures on at the same time. There's also not nearly as much of a power efficiency as the literature would like you to believe as compared to a standard 1P system - you have efficiency losses from the VFD's producing the additional phase, plus operating outside of the efficiency point for the pumps (which varies pretty significantly with pump RPM). There's definitely some, but not typically enough to make up the cost over the lifetime of the system. Things change when you start talking medium voltage (750V+) higher horsepower systems, but that's a long way away from residential stuff 
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Apr 23, 2021 20:25
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DaveSauce posted:You can also get VFDs that take 120V single phase input. The 240V split phase VFD will be cheaper and more efficient, but if you're forced you can do 120V. I haven't looked for quite a while but I remember finding very few options and all were super expensive (120v). Hopefully that's changed now because I've definitely got something in mind that I'd rather not swap the motor on (my 1950s southbend lathe). TrueChaos posted:Believe me I do understand what's involved with them, I'm an engineer who designs water and wastewater treatment systems for a living. Given it's a retrofit situation, I personally doubt it would be beneficial in this application unless the downstream system is properly designed for a constant pressure application, and you've got a lot of high water usage fixtures on at the same time. All good, I'm not trying to convince you, I'm speaking from practical experience in residences. I wouldn't think there would be any power savings - are people actually claiming that?
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Apr 23, 2021 21:39
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Not sure if this is the right thread for this or not, but here goes. I want to put a shed in my backyard, maybe something about 8'x4'. With the prices of lumber going up dramatically, am I better off just buying something pre-built (Tuff shed?), or some sort of kit, or would I still save money building something myself? I also have virtually zero construction experience, but am pretty confident I could follow good plans. I was looking at something like this: https://www.etsy.com/listing/909483241/4x8-lean-to-shed-plans. I welcome any DIY shed horror stories.
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Apr 23, 2021 22:09
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Check Costco for sheds, it might vary by region but mine has very reasonable prices.
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Apr 24, 2021 00:04
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Motronic posted:I wouldn't think there would be any power savings - are people actually claiming that? With energy prices increasing the way they are, VFDs can frequently be used for energy optimization, especially when matched with pumps that are designed for efficiency across a range of RPMs. There are a surprising amount of applications where process control is being done via throttling valves, where you're essentially just using a valve to burn off energy to limit flow. Think well pumps for water supply - they're frequently oversized due to safety factors and need to be throttled because the treatment process they're feeding can't handle the increased capacity. Even with the inefficiency of moving out of the pumps BEP, you're still saving compared to running full tilt against a throttling valve. Or, for example, heating loops feeding air handling units for a large facility - putting these (constantly running) pumps onto VFDs and turning them down when full flow isn't needed provides a lot of savings over the lifetime of the equipment. At wastewater treatment plants, a lot of them run power generation by burning off the gas from the sludge tanks rather than flaring it off - I'm actually working on a study looking at if the plant can produce enough power through this method to be completely self sufficient - hundreds of thousands in electricity savings yearly, but a huge part of that is optimizing processes not to waste energy. Kind of off on a tangent here, so all of that to say... I've seen them make that claim with respect to residential systems and it doesn't really hold up outside of really weird edge cases.
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Apr 24, 2021 02:17
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Motronic posted:I haven't looked for quite a while but I remember finding very few options and all were super expensive (120v). Hopefully that's changed now because I've definitely got something in mind that I'd rather not swap the motor on (my 1950s southbend lathe). What do you consider super expensive? I deal with industrial stuff, so my idea of super expensive is probably very different from yours. We typically spec Allen-Bradley, and if that means anything to you then you know this conversation isn't going in the right direction. Their low-end 120V 1ph input/240V 3ph output 1HP drive is around $450-$500 street price. We pay less as an OEM, but there are certainly cheaper options. AutomationDirect has one for less than $200. IIRC Mitsubishi is pretty popular with the hobbyist machine/CNC crowd, but I can't remember if they do 120V for single phase. You could also look at ABB, Schneider/SquareD, and Yaskawa. 120V input for VFDs is more common than it used to be, but it's still not a major market. I only know about it because my current company's customers often don't have 3ph drops available, so we have to use 120V or 208V if we want to sell machines. It's not a common thing by any means. That said, you could use a 240V input VFD for the same motor. The motor shouldn't care what the source voltage is as long as the VFD outputs the right voltage. If the machine itself is 120V input then you'd have some work to do to convert it over to 240V. Motronic posted:I wouldn't think there would be any power savings - are people actually claiming that? All VFD manufacturers claim energy savings. Mainly because while you may not be running at peak efficiency, in most applications the power savings of running at lower speed can negate the lower efficiency. But that's a very detailed analysis that most people aren't going to do, and I'm not familiar with this sort of application so I can't speak to it. edit: fffffff beaten on the power savings part listen to the wastewater engineer. They live and breathe pumps. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Apr 24, 2021 |
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Apr 24, 2021 02:20
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TrueChaos posted:<experience with big stuff> Yeah......I totally buy the first part, the second seems ridiculous considering the size/power draw of resi pumps. DaveSauce posted:What do you consider super expensive? I consider "expensive" to be "the same or more than replacing this 1 HP motor w/reverse (which I guess I don't need because the VFD will do that) + the cost of a 240v VFD" So yeah, all relative, but sanely grounded in "I can just pull 240 over here and bang in an outlet if you're gonna be like that!" I just haven't gotten around to looking at this as a solution again because there are too many other projects and not enough time to be making metal chips right now. When I last looked street prices were closer to 4 figures and there were very few choices. I don't remember what a motor replacement looked like at the time, but I do know this one isn't easily convertible, at least according to it's data plate.
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Apr 24, 2021 02:35
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Motronic posted:I haven't looked for quite a while but I remember finding very few options and all were super expensive (120v). Hopefully that's changed now because I've definitely got something in mind that I'd rather not swap the motor on (my 1950s southbend lathe). We've been using ABB VFD's exclusively for the small stuff at work. ACS150 line in particular. I had poor luck with the AutomationDirect VFD's. The past few retrofits I did we put in digital phase converters when all we needed was to go single phase-three phase. A lot easier than setting up a VFD.
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Apr 24, 2021 02:36
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Yooper posted:We've been using ABB VFD's exclusively for the small stuff at work. ACS150 line in particular. I had poor luck with the AutomationDirect VFD's. The past few retrofits I did we put in digital phase converters when all we needed was to go single phase-three phase. A lot easier than setting up a VFD. Those look nice and a good price, thanks. I'll have to go check the motor specs again and see what a replacement costs to see which way makes the most sense to go on this one.
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Apr 24, 2021 02:49
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