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Party Boat posted:Full KVMs can be expensive and bulky so if you don't absolutely need a one-button solution I'd generally recommend a just using a USB switch for your inputs (I got this one a while back and it's done the job just fine, although it seems to have doubled in price since I bought it) and connecting both machines to separate inputs on the monitor. DVI obviously isn't ideal but if you're upgrading the monitor ones with two HDMI inputs are pretty common. You can use display-switch to automatically switch the monitor to whatever computer the USB input devices connect to. I used it to turn a 20$ USB switch into a KVM, works great.
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Apr 24, 2021 01:22
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Dead Reckoning posted:Hello, my 13 year old ViewSonic monitor finally died. It was paired with an ancient desktop with a GTX560Ti. I have no desire to re-do my entire setup, because I don't really have a lot of time to play video games these days, but I would like to use the desktop, and maybe play games on it sometimes when the opportunity arises. It depends on your uses but for most basic desktop use I recommend a 23-24" IPS 1080p screen. They usually cost $100-130 and many manufacturers use the same panels (they're on the higher end due to covid demand and supply line shortages). I generally buy Dell, BenQ, HP, Acer, or whatever fits the price point I'm looking for. If you want more screen space the next step up is a 27" IPS 1440p screen. Those are closer to $200. If you want gaming (and you don't according to your post) then you look at the same thing with high refresh rates which are $300+. Right now I'd get either of these $130 ones: https://smile.amazon.com/HP-23-8-inch-Adjustment-Speakers-VH240a/dp/B072M34RQC/ https://smile.amazon.com/Dell-SE2419Hx-23-8-1920x1080-Monitor/dp/B07HKV5RLG/ If you want a little cheaper get a 22" but make sure it's 1080 and IPS. These are almost exactly $110. https://smile.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-22-inch-Border-Less-FreeSync-LF22T350FHNXZA/dp/B08FNW672V/ https://smile.amazon.com/ViewSonic-VA2259-SMH-Frameless-Monitor-Inputs/dp/B01HSABNU0/ If a hundred bucks is too much but you want to see things on your computer then woot has a 19.5" 900p IPS monitor for $57. It's not going to be great but at least it's an IPS panel so it'll look nice. Woot is owned by amazon now so it ships free with prime. https://computers.woot.com/offers/acer-v206wql-b-19-5-hd-monitor-1 If your needs change stop by the monitor thread. Most of the discussion focuses on high refresh rate gaming panels, 4k productivity panels, or huge ultrawides since those are the big expensive ones nowadays, but there's a lot of good info and goons who own that stuff.
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Apr 24, 2021 02:21
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Rexxed posted:It depends on your uses but for most basic desktop use I recommend a 23-24" IPS 1080p screen. They usually cost $100-130 and many manufacturers use the same panels (they're on the higher end due to covid demand and supply line shortages). I generally buy Dell, BenQ, HP, Acer, or whatever fits the price point I'm looking for. If you want more screen space the next step up is a 27" IPS 1440p screen. Those are closer to $200. If you want gaming (and you don't according to your post) then you look at the same thing with high refresh rates which are $300+. Thanks! I'm looking at either a NOS ViewSonic from 2018, or a newer BenQ, but I'll add those to the list. I didn't find the display thread when I first looked, so thanks for pointing me to that.
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Apr 24, 2021 03:46
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Less Fat Luke posted:You can use display-switch to automatically switch the monitor to whatever computer the USB input devices connect to. I used it to turn a 20$ USB switch into a KVM, works great. This is incredibly smart and useful. Sadly my work laptop is completely locked down so I'd only be able to use it to switch one way. Pressing the monitor input button isn't that much of a hassle though.
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Apr 24, 2021 06:26
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Party Boat posted:This is incredibly smart and useful. Sadly my work laptop is completely locked down so I'd only be able to use it to switch one way. Pressing the monitor input button isn't that much of a hassle though. One way is enough, you can actually set it up for disconnect and connect events on whichever host you have access to :-) Just have each event set the proper input on the monitor (that's what my setup does).
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Apr 24, 2021 14:07
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Ooh. Think I know what I'll be spending an hour tinkering with tomorrow.
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Apr 24, 2021 14:46
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Just need to think of a control method. For example my mouse and keyboard is connected to a USB hub I switch between work and home computer, but I also have another mouse connected directly to home computer and use one of the extra buttons for play/pause in my music player.
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Apr 24, 2021 15:13
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Dumb question time: I've got a hand-me-down Dell Inspiron "gaming desktop" I'm using as my work from home PC. Ryzen 7, Radeon RX 580. It works fine, but occasionally extra fans will kick on and it sounds like a drat jet engine for a few minutes. I'm guessing it's hitting a certain temperature and running those fans at full speed until it cools back down, but sometimes it'll go off for 30 seconds or so when I plug in a USB drive, or open a browser window. Not exactly power user stuff. Can I adjust some settings to keep it quieter, or can I buy some replacement fans that won't wake up everyone in the house next time I open excel?
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Apr 26, 2021 18:38
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Toebone posted:Dumb question time: I've got a hand-me-down Dell Inspiron "gaming desktop" I'm using as my work from home PC. Ryzen 7, Radeon RX 580. If it's excel/etc doing it, sounds like case fans. You should be able to go into your BIOS and look for fan control settings, adjust them to 'silent' or similar setting which should be plenty for case fans.
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Apr 26, 2021 18:59
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Dumb suggestion as well, but have you given it a good round with canned air? God knows how much dust/pet hair/etc is in a used gaming laptop.
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Apr 26, 2021 19:09
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VelociBacon posted:If it's excel/etc doing it, sounds like case fans. You should be able to go into your BIOS and look for fan control settings, adjust them to 'silent' or similar setting which should be plenty for case fans. Nothing in the BIOS regarding fans. While I was in there I did notice AMD PowerNow is enabled; I thought that was a laptop thing, should I turn it off?
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Apr 26, 2021 21:11
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Party Boat posted:Full KVMs can be expensive and bulky so if you don't absolutely need a one-button solution I'd generally recommend a just using a USB switch for your inputs (I got this one a while back and it's done the job just fine, although it seems to have doubled in price since I bought it) and connecting both machines to separate inputs on the monitor. DVI obviously isn't ideal but if you're upgrading the monitor ones with two HDMI inputs are pretty common. Less Fat Luke posted:You can use display-switch to automatically switch the monitor to whatever computer the USB input devices connect to. I used it to turn a 20$ USB switch into a KVM, works great. Thank you both. I don't know whether I'll be able to figure out that kind of solution, but it seems low-cost enough to try!
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Apr 27, 2021 02:20
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Toebone posted:Dumb question time: I've got a hand-me-down Dell Inspiron "gaming desktop" I'm using as my work from home PC. Ryzen 7, Radeon RX 580. If you can take a side panel off the case, do that and see if it still runs those fans up. If it does, it isn't airflow into the case and so points to your CPU heatsink being clogged or the heatsink compound has dried out. If the fans don't spin up loud, then it points to needing better airflow in and out of the case. This will help narrow down if it is even a fan problem to begin with. You can probably buy quieter fans but I've no idea on who makes the best. I know of Noctua but there are probably a bunch to chose from.
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Apr 27, 2021 07:29
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Toebone posted:Dumb question time: I've got a hand-me-down Dell Inspiron "gaming desktop" I'm using as my work from home PC. Ryzen 7, Radeon RX 580. May want to figure out what temp the CPU is hitting to make the fans spin like that. If it's hitting a very high temp (80c+) doing basic tasks then it could be an issue with the CPU cooler (fan not spinning, thermal paste dried up..) HWiNFO is a utility that monitors various sensors, including the CPU temperature.
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Apr 27, 2021 12:47
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Actuarial Fables posted:May want to figure out what temp the CPU is hitting to make the fans spin like that. If it's hitting a very high temp (80c+) doing basic tasks then it could be an issue with the CPU cooler (fan not spinning, thermal paste dried up..) I've had this running for a while; here's my average/max temperatures CPU: 37 / 52 Motherboard: 151 / 154 Dell EC: 45 / 47 GPU: 65 / 85 Seems like the GPU may be the culprit?
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Apr 28, 2021 18:21
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Toebone posted:I've had this running for a while; here's my average/max temperatures Never look at average temps, they have nothing to do with anything. GPUs should go to 85C, seems like whatever you were running was GPU limited so the GPU was working as hard as it could (and getting to a reasonable max temperature) and the CPU was 'waiting' for the GPU for frames and was only able to work as hard as to produce 52C temps which is pretty low. That motherboard sensor is for who knows what, probably safe to ignore. e: What were you doing during the test? If you were gaming there is nothing alarming here. If you were just using it like an office computer it shouldn't be getting that hot. You should install MSI afterburner and use a custom GPU fan profile, it's definitely the GPU fans you're hearing.
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Apr 28, 2021 18:47
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Ramping up the case fans might also help, by getting more cool air to the CPU and GPU. If the GPU fans are maxing out but the case fans are running at like 20%, then the case fans should be going quicker than that.
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Apr 28, 2021 20:28
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Toebone posted:I've had this running for a while; here's my average/max temperatures If the GPU came with the machine and isn't aftermarket, the RX 580s Dell used all had blower coolers and at full tilt that's certainly the loudest thing one can put in a computer. Cleaning the dust out of the card's heatsink and fan might help, replacing the thermal paste might help a little more, but that will probably never be quiet.
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Apr 28, 2021 22:42
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Toebone posted:I've had this running for a while; here's my average/max temperatures In Radeon Adrenaline try undervolting the GPU by about 50mv. My old rx480 reference card would ramp up to max fan when it hit max MHZ as it was at it's thermal limit but turning down the voltage slightly kept it as max MHZ, but the temps never got above 80 (I think as standard the last voltage was at 1050mv and I bumped it down to 1000, it could have even been 100mv I dropped it down.) I've done this as well my my 5600xt on a custom bios and with fans set to about 40% and a slightl undervolt, it sits at about 70c all day if I'm pushing it at about 2-300mhz higher than factory frequency.
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Apr 29, 2021 00:36
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Undervolting too much might lead to instability, so torture test it with some benchmarks and something like FAHBench (the Folding@Home benchmark) to make sure your undervolt is stable. You might be able to achieve the same temperature benefit by turning down the power limit, but that might impact performance more than a manual undervolt. Alternatively: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yQHAMz1v5g
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Apr 29, 2021 10:13
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Any recommendations on a cheap SATA controller daughter board? Would want one with probably +4 more 'slots' The use case is what I would call 'average', its not for a home security or business or website or anything. I do want at least SATA3 though, most of the drives are not spinners
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Apr 29, 2021 11:06
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All the cheap SATA cards I've seen only have 2 ports. I think the NAS thread usually recommends used LSI SAS cards. You use breakout cables to turn the SAS ports into however many SATA ports you need. Potential downside to this is that it won't fit in a PCIe x1 slot. This may or may not be a big deal depending on your motherboard and use case. Sometimes the motherboard will split off half the lanes from the primary x16 slot to give you 2x8 when the second x16 slot is populated (the reduction in lanes is usually not a problem for GPU performance, if that's a concern), sometimes it'll just run at x4 off the chipset and potentially disable a m.2 slot or a couple SATA ports. Consult your motherboard's manual.
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Apr 29, 2021 12:04
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TY, I'll take a look If it disables an m2 port is an automatic no go 
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Apr 29, 2021 12:23
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One caveat is that some SATA boards have four plugs - two internal SATA and two eSATA - but only two of them are usable at the same time. There are of course some multi-port boards available where you can connect four or more, but don't get tricked by the photos.
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Apr 29, 2021 20:07
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I think my old GPU is done for, it seems to be outputting video, but the only at a tiny resolution, and the image is all hosed up with green lines. Not the end of the world, but I'm hoping I can just switch over to my Intel integrated graphics for now The trouble is, I'm having a problem getting into my UEFI setup right now. If I just physically disconnect the GPU, and switch the DVI cable over to the motherboard output and boot, should the computer default to integrated graphics?
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Apr 29, 2021 21:24
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Vir posted:One caveat is that some SATA boards have four plugs - two internal SATA and two eSATA - but only two of them are usable at the same time. Alright thank you a lot for that tidbit, I think I have a much better idea what I'm working with
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Apr 29, 2021 21:27
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super fart shooter posted:I think my old GPU is done for, it seems to be outputting video, but the only at a tiny resolution, and the image is all hosed up with green lines. Not the end of the world, but I'm hoping I can just switch over to my Intel integrated graphics for now The trouble is, I'm having a problem getting into my UEFI setup right now. If I just physically disconnect the GPU, and switch the DVI cable over to the motherboard output and boot, should the computer default to integrated graphics? That's going to be a case-by-case basis depending on motherboard, but generally yes if you don't have a GPU in the PCIe slot, your onboard should display by default
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Apr 29, 2021 21:32
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I've got an M1 MacBook Air (USB C only) and a HP Laptop with only USB A. I want to connect both of them to a dock. I figure getting a USB C dock is better future proofing, but will a USB C dock with through a USB C to USB A convertor dongle? Would a USB A dock and USB C > A convertor be better? A few dock's I've looked at only list older Macbook Airs, might I have compatibility issues with the M1? I'm looking at this dock: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TJH4S7X?tag=mw-website-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ascsubtag=41-3693087-05-3786999 And this convertor: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yootech-Connector-Compatible-Chargers-Standard-Grey/dp/B087R1GZ1Q/ref=sr_1_23?crid=37SMHXG6N98F3&dchild=1 Any other suggestions welcome. But I'm a tightwad and don't want to spend more than about £100, if it not a sensible proposition I'll just plug in the windows laptop sans dock and use the Mac as a laptop only. Also will 30hz 4k be poo poo? My gaming won't extend past Civ and stuff like that. It is mainly a work setup for the Windows unit, but it would be nice to stick the Mac on big screen sometimes.
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May 1, 2021 17:42
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stump posted:Also will 30hz 4k be poo poo? My gaming won't extend past Civ and stuff like that. It is mainly a work setup for the Windows unit, but it would be nice to stick the Mac on big screen sometimes. 4k@30 Hz absolutely isn't sufficient, videos will judder weirdly and desktop usage is really unpleasant with a refresh rate that low.
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May 1, 2021 17:51
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Please help me brainstorm solutions here. I want to be able to put a webcam on my tv and do video chats with friends from my couch. I would aslo be interested in some gaming on my tv if possible . I do this now from my computer and it's fine until I want to lay on the couch and watch sumo on twitch or whatever with them. I have a steam link that I can stream my desktop to but there is some limited functionality there since I can't just plug my webcam into that and I don't currently have a good speaker/microphone solution if it's just more than me on the couch. If it's just me I can use my bluetooth headphones. When I think about this I seem to always end up at the buy a laptop and dock it to the tv or one of the NUC style computers and be done with it. Plug the webcam into that. Get a bluetooth mic for the coffee table and be done. I like this solution because being able to not have to rely on the Roku functionality for all of my media consumption on the tv is nice and that just leads me back to the get another computer route. The laptop is appealing because then I'd have a laptop as well at the end of the day. Am I missing some obvious other solution here?
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May 1, 2021 18:44
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:Am I missing some obvious other solution here? Before you do any of that, I’d check out an NDI app for your phone or a tablet. Just connect that through your network to the computer you’re streaming from and set the phone up on the coffee table or whatever. Beats a $300+ outlay for another computer for this sole purpose.
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May 1, 2021 19:25
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Should I grab chipset drivers from my motherboard manufacturer or from AMD directly?
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May 5, 2021 09:09
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Fame Douglas posted:4k@30 Hz absolutely isn't sufficient, videos will judder weirdly and desktop usage is really unpleasant with a refresh rate that low. Thanks, I got a 60hz dock in the end. Doesn’t work via a USBA>C adaptor unsurprisingly (USB is fine but not HDMI) but works fine with the Mac and only cost £20.
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May 5, 2021 12:58
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I have an older Dell XPS 8300 desktop PC and the original graphics card seems to have crapped out on me and my monitor wasn't getting a signal. I tried re-seating the graphics card, I tried two cables, and two monitors. I couldn't get a display outputted to the monitor until I removed the graphics card and plugged the monitor cable directly into the back of my PC. Is this sufficient for general use, including web browsing and Office apps? It's never been a gaming PC and I don't use it for games. (I am posting this from my work computer).
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May 5, 2021 15:23
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me your dad posted:I have an older Dell XPS 8300 desktop PC and the original graphics card seems to have crapped out on me and my monitor wasn't getting a signal. I tried re-seating the graphics card, I tried two cables, and two monitors. I couldn't get a display outputted to the monitor until I removed the graphics card and plugged the monitor cable directly into the back of my PC. without knowing what the specs of that PC is, what's likely happened is that you're using the integrated GPU yes, that's going to be sufficient for web browsing and Office apps. That's what it's there for.
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May 5, 2021 15:29
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A quick google says the XPS 8300 had Sandy Bridge processors. The integrated graphics in those are just fine for office work and 99% of web browsing. I say 99% because I wouldn't be surprised if some rando video streaming service assumes you have a beefier iGPU at this point.
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May 5, 2021 15:37
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Thank you!
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May 5, 2021 17:45
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Incessant Excess posted:Should I grab chipset drivers from my motherboard manufacturer or from AMD directly? Odds are good AMD's will be newer, I'd start with those.
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May 5, 2021 18:41
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This is I think the right place for this but if not, happy to post it elsewhere: What is the reasonable maximum length of HDMI? Church is looking for AV upgrade. the idea is there are 3 old projectors up quite high on a vaulted ceilings and they are currently using VGA connections. They may have it in the budget to go with a bit higher than a 1024x whatever projector and upgrade their computer along with it. Current setup is VGA from an ancient single core laptop to a 3 way splitter. Obviously newer PCs have either DisplayPort or HDMI. Goal is to have it about as easy as it is now. I don’t need projector recommendations but more of what can I do to get either DVI or HDMI out at a distance? Doesn’t run anything more fancy than a Google slide with the occasional video.
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May 9, 2021 23:49
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Would HDMI to Ethernet (and back to HDMI on the other end) be feasible?
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May 10, 2021 00:25
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