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If I pull my 1070 out of my current pc to put in my new build, do I have to do anything special to use the integrated graphics on the 4690k?
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May 2, 2021 18:57
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Alucard posted:Dunno what kind of power he's hoping to get but here's a quick example of the poison in the rear end it is to get CUDA cores generally. I suspect even the data science GPUs are getting bought up by scalpers/miners as well... Looks like it's gonna be a mac mini m1
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May 2, 2021 19:05
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South posted:If I pull my 1070 out of my current pc to put in my new build, do I have to do anything special to use the integrated graphics on the 4690k? Nope
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May 2, 2021 19:05
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Looking to finally pull the trigger on Ryzen now that my oldest machine has given up the ghost - can I get a sense check on the below? The case and video card are coming across from the old machine so they're included for reference, and the cooler was recently purchased and fitted to the old machine before it failed. Going by Noctua's website it should be acceptable for the 3700X so I'd prefer to keep it for noise reasons, but if the Wraith cooler packaged with the CPU is better/quieter I'll just use that instead. Additional info:
PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($308.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D9L 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($269.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Flare X 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory ($239.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($121.50 @ Newegg) Total: $1000.42 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-05-02 16:34 EDT-0400 Bjork Bjowlob fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 2, 2021 |
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May 2, 2021 22:07
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So how badly would I be getting scalped for a Zotac 3060 at $560? (I believe it's the white model that seems to be msrp of $550 right now from Zotac.) On one hand, it seems to be reasonable for the item it is, but on the other, it's $560 for a fuckin' 3060 non-Ti....
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May 2, 2021 22:25
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Alucard posted:So how badly would I be getting scalped for a Zotac 3060 at $560? (I believe it's the white model that seems to be msrp of $550 right now from Zotac.) 329 was the base cost for the model so you're eating about 230 compared to that fantasy number. idk, not terrible but still fuckin yikes to this market. e: but come to the GPU thread! it's genuinely kind of interesting watching this poo poo show and they'll have more opinions than me.
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May 2, 2021 23:07
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CoolCab posted:329 was the base cost for the model so you're eating about 230 compared to that fantasy number. idk, not terrible but still fuckin yikes to this market. Yeah I'm aware of the magical number - even the manufacturers seem to have mostly abandoned that (at least evga and Zotac have) and that's assuming I get an unbundled card - so one shot a month with Best Buy or eat some other component cost in the newegg shuffle (assuming I get either of those). Supposedly my nearest Micro Center is basically only selling cards as part of their pc building service.
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May 2, 2021 23:23
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Saukkis posted:Yeah, it's a difficult question to figure out which would be more optimal for you, i5-11400 with 64GB or something like i7-10700 with 32GB. It's probably not trivial to extrapolate from your current less powerful computer. You might look at running your normal operations singly, monitor their resource usage and then total those that could be running simultaneously. But that's not straightforward either, when you are running the emulators heavily you are probably not running heavy compiles at the same time. But at least with RAM it's easy to upgrade if you get 4 slot motherboard and two sticks of RAM, just buy an extra pair. If you at some point notice you would like more CPU power it is a significantly bigger hurdle and afterwards you're left with an unneeded old CPU. There is an unfortunate extra expense with the motherboard, but at least it's easy to justify it for yourself with upgradeability The CPU is where the money should be focused. Ram is a much easier, cheaper, and more available once the parts are older upgrade. Just look at CPU prices for people trying to upgrade to top of slot for like the LGA 1150/51. It’s bonkers.
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May 2, 2021 23:39
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Quick question. Finished my build. Everything works great except the Ethernet on my motherboard. I can only connect to the internet using the wifi. Did I miss something in the bios? I'm using an ASUS b550 F wifi.
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May 3, 2021 03:55
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South posted:Quick question. Did you install the Ethernet driver from ASUS’s site? If you did, try disabling the WiFi in hardware manager.
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May 3, 2021 04:01
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Hey guys, id like to refresh my current PC, thinking new case, mobo and cpu, keeping the rest of this, if possible: Id like to stay with the micro form factor but want to update the cpu to keep up with my 2070 a little better for gaming. It's been a few years since i put this one together and I think things have changed a lot in the cpu market. I'd like to spend under $1000 Canadian. Thanks for any suggestions you can give! E: I have a 1tb nvme and a physical hd I'll probably keep large hands fucked around with this message at 04:22 on May 3, 2021 |
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May 3, 2021 04:20
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Comatoast posted:What about if you nix the ramdisk and the extra ram, and instead upgrade to a top of the line ssd with 2000-3000mb/s read and write. The SN550 you have chosen has 1/3 of that write throughput. From other suggestions, downgrading the RAM seems like I'd want to go to a 4 slot motherboard in case I want to upgrade in future, and that change adds $50 to the motherboard price, and 2x16GB RAM is slightly more expensive per GB than 2x32GB, so this change would end up saving not that much after all, for a change that *might* also have a negative impact on the performance outcomes. The suggestion that throwing a bit more money at the processor would be worth it made me look closer at going to the i5-11600k rather than i5-11400, which it seems like isn't *that* much of an improvement for the $60 price increase, but it does significantly improve the iGPU, which I'm concerned might end up being a bottleneck for some things, so maybe a good idea. But then it also increases the TDP and requires selecting a separate cooler. So I took a look at the suggested i7-10700, which doesn't improve on the iGPU but does seem like the additional cores would play well with the "bunch of crap in parallel" workload I'm most likely to be doing, and is still cheaper than most of the suggested AMD options, and still doesn't require adding a graphics card. So I went with it. So now I'm up another $100 but I'm starting to feel pretty comfortable with most of my choices. Someone said I could probably save a few bucks on the PSU. Got any specific suggestions on that front? I find all the brand names of PSUs sound like "piece of crap that will burn your house down" or "generic nameless set of letters that plans to go out of business before you sue them", and I don't know how low on wattage it's okay to go, so advice on this topic would be most welcome. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rv8s7X (If I had to take a guess I'd go with the "Enermax CYBERBRON", because the name makes me laugh.)
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May 3, 2021 04:51
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roomforthetuna posted:Someone said I could probably save a few bucks on the PSU. Got any specific suggestions on that front? I find all the brand names of PSUs sound like "piece of crap that will burn your house down" or "generic nameless set of letters that plans to go out of business before you sue them", and I don't know how low on wattage it's okay to go, so advice on this topic would be most welcome. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rv8s7X You don't want to go too cheap on your PSU as that's a good way to end up with fried components. Corsair, Seasonic, and EVGA tend to be the go-to quality PSU brands in the US. Look for something with an 80+ Bronze or better rating and a 7+ year warranty. Many 80+ Gold models from these manufacturers will offer a 10 year warranty. 750W is way overkill if you're not using a dedicated GPU, but will be nice to have if you end up adding one later.
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May 3, 2021 11:57
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Helter Skelter posted:You don't want to go too cheap on your PSU as that's a good way to end up with fried components.
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May 3, 2021 12:19
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roomforthetuna posted:Perfect, thanks! That suggests a 600W EVGA BR, which saves me $55 vs. the previously selected Corsair. Oh no, please do not buy a PSU with a 3 year warranty. That is going Too Cheap. You can get a 650W EVGA G5 for $90 right now, that would still be cheaper than your previous choice but offers a 10 year warranty.
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May 3, 2021 13:50
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Helter Skelter posted:Oh no, please do not buy a PSU with a 3 year warranty. That is going Too Cheap.
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May 3, 2021 14:33
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roomforthetuna posted:Okay then. Though a 10 year warranty seems a bit bonkers! It just means it’s not a piece of poo poo.
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May 3, 2021 14:34
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Think of it like this: if a given piece of hardware fails, what else can it potentially take out with it? For most components, the answer is usually "not much, if anything". Maybe a drive in a RAID array fails and you have to take some time to rebuilt the array after swapping in a new drive. But for power supplies, the answer is "literally everything it's connected to", which happens to be the entire system. So, yeah. Look for deals, but buy quality when it comes to your power supply.
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May 3, 2021 14:43
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Helter Skelter posted:So, yeah. Look for deals, but buy quality when it comes to your power supply. The additional rated-efficiency of going to a gold-rated PSU seems like a worthy win though. Probably saves about $15 a year in electricity if the machine is on 24/7.
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May 3, 2021 14:57
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roomforthetuna posted:I'm mostly surprised by "10 year warranty" meaning anything at all. Like it doesn't cover the damage caused if it blows up everything, so even if it's a full not-limited warranty for the entire duration, at most it's worth the not-very-high cost of the part, *if* you're willing to jump through the hoops of making a claim and haven't lost the receipt by the time it fails. With that low of a risk I would think a 10 year warranty part would be just the exact same part for double the price. That's what I'd do if I was a cynical corporation driven solely by profit. It’s less about warranty claims, and more that the manufacturer knows it’s garbage. 3 year warranty means the company expects 90-95% of units to fail after 3.5 years. 10 year warranty means the company expected 90-95% of units to fail after 10 years. That means significantly better build quality and significantly lower failure rate. Which is why you buy 10 year warranty PSUs only and stop using them after 10 years. Efficiency is similar. Bronze ones means the company built a pretty poo poo product. Gold means it’s built well.
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May 3, 2021 15:23
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:It’s less about warranty claims, and more that the manufacturer knows it’s garbage. Don't take efficiency as a strong proxy for quality, you can build a poor quality but efficient power supply. Higher end parts tend to be more efficient so higher end PSUs tend to have better ratings, but it's not a given a gold PSU is a high quality one. Unrated PSUs are where it gets dicey. And there's only a 5% difference between bronze and gold. That said, it's a fine weak proxy. While some of the warranty length is doubtlessly tied up in the price, the price separation isn't enough to account for all of it, longer warranty PSUs are likely to be better built. 3 years are just crap, it's as low as they come. 5 year bronze PSUs are fine for budget systems, and if you're sinking serious dough into the machine mise go for a 10/gold.
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May 3, 2021 16:07
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large hands posted:Hey guys, id like to refresh my current PC, thinking new case, mobo and cpu, keeping the rest of this, if possible: Perhaps this was too open ended a question. I'll probably be taking the old PC to a local builder to upgrade. I guess I'm asking what the recommended parts would be if I wanted to spend say 350cdn for a cpu <200 for a mobo and whatever for a nice minimalist looking, cool and quiet case. Used for gaming and streaming mainly. I like to run things on the highest settings, usually at 1080p but 4k would be nice. Is there any chance I can keep my current CPU cooler?
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May 3, 2021 16:59
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large hands posted:Perhaps this was too open ended a question. I'll probably be taking the old PC to a local builder to upgrade. I guess I'm asking what the recommended parts would be if I wanted to spend say 350cdn for a cpu <200 for a mobo and whatever for a nice minimalist looking, cool and quiet case. Used for gaming and streaming mainly. I like to run things on the highest settings, usually at 1080p but 4k would be nice. Is there any chance I can keep my current CPU cooler? Ok, so for cheap and available, the intel core i5-11400 is a great value, and can be had for well under 350cdn and it beats the hell out of your current CPU by like 300%, since it's a 6 core 12 thread cpu. It beats out anything AMD has in it's price bracket, and higher tiers of 11th gen Intel processor are not worth considering, as their price to performance value is "subpar" at best (they get fuckin thrashed on price and performance, sometimes by Intel CPUs from the previous generation). Grab that, and whatever B560 motherboard takes your fancy, and as far as case goes, do you care about optical drive bays? If not, the fractal design meshify c is recommended a lot in this thread because it's a solid case with good cooling and plenty of room. Cooler wise you can keep the same cooler, it should perform fine, may need an adapter bracket if for some reason the cooler doesn't line up precisely, but Intel usually doesn't change the geometry of their sockets too wildly so it should fit on there. Check with your cooler manufacturer to find out if you need an adapter.
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May 3, 2021 17:29
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Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for. It's hard to keep up and it's been 4 years since I built the current PC. Thanks!
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May 3, 2021 17:35
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large hands posted:Perhaps this was too open ended a question. I'll probably be taking the old PC to a local builder to upgrade. I guess I'm asking what the recommended parts would be if I wanted to spend say 350cdn for a cpu <200 for a mobo and whatever for a nice minimalist looking, cool and quiet case. Used for gaming and streaming mainly. I like to run things on the highest settings, usually at 1080p but 4k would be nice. Is there any chance I can keep my current CPU cooler? If you want an alternative opinion, with your budget you could get the Ryzen 5600x which is generally regarded as the best value higher end CPU going at the moment. You could get CPU, board and case for ~  $700, so still plenty under budget. Absolutely nothing wrong with orange juche's suggested parts either though. The Intel is a great choice for lower and midrange builds at the moment, especially given the integrated graphics which could tide people over until they got a dedicated GPU. Given you've got a good GPU already though I might be inclined to spend a little more on the CPU. There would be an appreciable difference between the 11400 and the 5600x at 1080p although at higher resolutions that difference gets much narrower.
Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 18:13 on May 3, 2021 |
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May 3, 2021 18:08
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While I'm not opposed to going AMD for the first time since the late nineties, it looks like that processor only offers a 10-20% performance increase over the 11400 for almost twice the price. Honestly as long as I can get 60fps at max settings id rather save the $200
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May 3, 2021 19:30
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That is a perfectly reasonable approach to take.
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May 3, 2021 19:35
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Butterfly Valley posted:If you want an alternative opinion, with your budget you could get the Ryzen 5600x which is generally regarded as the best value higher end CPU going at the moment. You could get CPU, board and case for ~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAJVM01D2hw So there's about a 10% gap at 1080p between the 5600x and the 11400, for about half the price. Both CPUs have no issues feeding data to high end GPUs and maintaining frame rates well in excess of 100fps, so $200 CAD vs $350 CAD is a pretty big difference for not a huge difference in visible performance. If it was 10% straddling the 60fps line then I would say it's worth the difference but it's not.
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May 3, 2021 20:36
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orange juche posted:So there's about a 10% gap at 1080p between the 5600x and the 11400, for about half the price. Both CPUs have no issues feeding data to high end GPUs and maintaining frame rates well in excess of 100fps, so $200 CAD vs $350 CAD is a pretty big difference for not a huge difference in visible performance. Yep totally fair, I thought if he had a high fps monitor they might be interested in the extra power. large hands posted:While I'm not opposed to going AMD for the first time since the late nineties, it looks like that processor only offers a 10-20% performance increase over the 11400 for almost twice the price. Honestly as long as I can get 60fps at max settings id rather save the $200 What's your monitor situation? If you're stuck with a 1080p 60hz monitor you'd be leaving a lot of performance on the table between the 11400 and a 2070. I'd use some of your extra budget to upgrade to a 1440p higher refresh rate monitor, if that's the case.
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May 3, 2021 21:09
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Butterfly Valley posted:What's your monitor situation? If you're stuck with a 1080p 60hz monitor you'd be leaving a lot of performance on the table between the 11400 and a 2070. I'd use some of your extra budget to upgrade to a 1440p higher refresh rate monitor, if that's the case.  lol we just got rid of the 4k 65" tv and got a projector, just waiting on the screen to be delivered I have a 1080p 120hz low latency monitor tucked away but rarely get time to pull it out
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May 3, 2021 21:20
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My current boot drive is a 250GB Samsung 850 EVO SATA, with a 2TB HD for storage. I was gonna get the 1TB SN550 as a new boot drive and for games storage, but then I remembered some talk about keeping boot drive/main programs separate from games storage? Is it worth getting a smaller boot and then another in my second m.2 slot for just games?
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May 3, 2021 22:41
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roomtwofifteen posted:My current boot drive is a 250GB Samsung 850 EVO SATA, with a 2TB HD for storage. Not anymore. No reason to do that.
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May 3, 2021 22:54
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Lol RAM prices are so bad right now that I could have made a profit flipping the crappy Oloy sticks that came in my 3070 bundle from Newegg if I hadn't returned them (this was before they stopped taking them back)
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May 3, 2021 23:16
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I ran into a very silly issue when i was building my new computer. I have a corsair SF600 platinum psu annnnnnnnnnd the cables are too short to go from the psu to the motherboard etc. So I need to get some extenders or replacements. Does anyone know what the good ones are for this? who knew SFF psus had shorter cables! Ramadu fucked around with this message at 05:57 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 05:55
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Holy crap cable management has gotten a lot easier since my last build (or maybe I cheaped out last time in 2014). The semi-modular PSU has way fewer extraneous cables, the PSU at the bottom with rubber passthroughs, and the lack of optical drive slots seems to make a world of difference. Will post a picture when I get my dino GPU in there as I await a lottery ticket for a 30 series card.
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May 4, 2021 14:44
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Ramadu posted:I ran into a very silly issue when i was building my new computer. I have a corsair SF600 platinum psu annnnnnnnnnd the cables are too short to go from the psu to the motherboard etc. So I need to get some extenders or replacements. Does anyone know what the good ones are for this? Buy from Corsair itself or from certified places like cablemod. Even then you have to double check what your are buying so that it fits the specs of your specific PSU (usually they will be marked as "SF" or whatever prefix the PSU comes with). On the other hand, double check your orientation, I have a sf600 and the cables are quite lengthy..
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May 4, 2021 14:51
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I refreshed all my power supplies when THOSE were having a shortage last year so these gpu+psu combos on shuffle are pretty frustrating. Right now my strategy is refresh the 3060ti page on Best Buy a couple times a day, and it turns out I have a evga psu that qualifies me for evga elite or whatever, so I gotta register that and hope whenever the 3070ti or 3060ti++ or whatever drops I’ll have a chance to get in line first.
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May 4, 2021 16:56
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Ramadu posted:I ran into a very silly issue when i was building my new computer. I have a corsair SF600 platinum psu annnnnnnnnnd the cables are too short to go from the psu to the motherboard etc. So I need to get some extenders or replacements. Does anyone know what the good ones are for this? edit: Here's the newer, in-stock version. mega dy fucked around with this message at 17:34 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 17:31
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Probably a stupid question but is there a way to get on an ordering list for GPU's rather than consistently checking the web. I've gotta build a workstation for home to make some side money and the bottleneck is getting a GPU that is future proof for a few years, runs engineering software and is good for videogames and VR.
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May 4, 2021 19:13
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The only company I know using any kind of waiting list is EVGA and that wait is probably at least 8 months long at this point.
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May 4, 2021 19:20
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