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Gwaihir posted:I literally just put some cherry profile row 2 caps on here and they don't do that though If you google around for it, you'll find plenty of cases where it happens. It may not happen with GMK caps if they have tighter tolerances than cherry clone manufacturers.
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May 4, 2021 15:01
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KidDynamite posted:i've actually been using my moonlander as my main keyboard. even when coding. so I want to get some cool keycaps for the sucker. has anyone put out sets for them? also what's the deal with gmk keycaps? they seem interesting I threw a set of Glorious Aura caps on the alphas and numbers on mine and I like the look. The number row legends are less effectively lit than the stock ones and the profile is not a match, but neither bother me. My desk is a nightmare right now but I posted some pics upthread I can probably find once I post this. I don't think there are any specific fit sets, but anything designed for Ergodox-style boards will get you close enouth. By my count Ergodox has 60 1U keys, 12 1.5U, and 4 2U. Moonlander trades all the 1.5Us in the finger area for 1U (64 in total) and reconfigures the thumb cluster to 3x 1.5U and one 2U per side. Using an Ergodox key set on a Moonlander would then leave you short four 1Us but with a few spares of the larger keys. edit: found the post with the pics wolrah posted:
wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:11 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 15:02
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Gunder posted:If you google around for it, you'll find plenty of cases where it happens. It may not happen with GMK caps if they have tighter tolerances than cherry clone manufacturers. Maybe we're talking about different things? These are the caps I just tried: (GMK on the left, generic OEM in the middle, MT3 on the right)  All 3 worked fine? No binding or catching on anything they weren't supposed to, both felt smooth, no extra clacking that I could hear, and this is with silent alpaca linear switches so there's not a ton of noise to begin with.
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May 4, 2021 15:07
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It seems to mostly be an issue with thicker caps. Edit: Some guy did the marker pen trick to see where the switch housing made contact with the underside of the keycap, and was able to demonstrate it. I can't find it just now though.
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May 4, 2021 15:14
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Maybe it's just that I have no idea what to listen for lol. I've used SA caps on this board too, but that was with Kailh box whites, when I first got it. Haven't used them in a long while since then.
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May 4, 2021 15:22
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Gwaihir posted:I literally just put some cherry profile row 2 caps on here and they don't do that though I think the clearance issue that ppl are concerned about is with 3mm LEDs mounted on the top of the keyswitch and it just got game-of-telephone'd into "north facing switches bad"
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May 4, 2021 15:24
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My other issue with the Drop boards other than the thin rear end aluminium they use is the anodization and colours. The K-Type renders had this really nice space grey, but the real keyboard ended up looking like the back of cheap aluminium foil. The CTRL renders also made it look like it was going to be super dark grey, but ended up being a slightly darker K-Type. They've since fixed the renders, but it was well after orders have been placed. They seem to have better colour options now but I'm not really a fan of the grey ones I got on the first batches. Greys weren't dark enough and "sparkly" under some lighting. Constellation I fucked around with this message at 15:50 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 15:45
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My ALT shorts out and needs to be unplugged and replugged if I sit down and touch it without grounding myself to my MacBook first. I doubt this is common, but there are at least a few other people who have posted similar issues. I can't wait for my Melody65 to arrive to replace it. I did get one in the original GB on what was then MassDrop, so maybe there's a newer revision.
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May 4, 2021 15:49
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Constellation I posted:My other issue with the Drop boards other than the thin rear end aluminium they use is the anodization and colours. The K-Type renders had this really nice space grey, but the real keyboard ended up looking like the back of cheap aluminium foil. The CTRL renders also made it look like it was going to be super dark grey, but ended up being a slightly darker K-Type. They've since fixed the renders, but it was well after orders have been placed. I'm sorta questioning what you'd consider reasonable if the drop cases are thin lol. My Ctrl weighs in at 3.95 pounds- Which is not at all far off from my fuckin Model M, which comes in at 4.5 pounds. Considering that's aluminum vs steel and TKL vs full size, the Ctrl is dense as hell.
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May 4, 2021 15:56
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DrHammond posted:I don't see the Drop Alt or Ctrl coming up much here, and at a glance it seems like those should be strong contenders in the same space the GMMK Pro is in. I don't actually know much about those boards, but have seen a few positive-ish YouTube reviews. Is there some reason I'm unaware of that they aren't coming up in these conversations? I been using my Drop Crtl for about 2 years as my daily driver at home and it was a keyboard I grew to love over time as it needs a lot of things done to make it great. The Stock plate-mount stabilizers on the Crtl is complete trash and you should replace them and lube the replacement set. Some keys can have a sharp ping like the Halo Clears on the board so it is recommended that if you have that issue to lube the switches and springs. Custom cables are a no go due the Crtl's high power requirement so stick with the stock cable unless you want the LEDs to dim all the time from the cable being too long. There is QMK but no via support. You will lose your LED settings if you unplug the keyboard. However, using the Crtl did teach me how to lube and film my switches and do to a lot of mods that you need to do to have a smooth typing experience which is something I am glad I did. I used that to plan my Bella build much better and I am looking forward to moving my CRTL to my work desk.
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May 4, 2021 16:26
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DrHammond posted:I don't see the Drop Alt or Ctrl coming up much here, and at a glance it seems like those should be strong contenders in the same space the GMMK Pro is in. I don't actually know much about those boards, but have seen a few positive-ish YouTube reviews. Is there some reason I'm unaware of that they aren't coming up in these conversations? Mostly, other budget boards have made these basically obsolete. If you want something similar, just buy the GMMK Pro.
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May 4, 2021 16:37
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TacticalHoodie posted:I been using my Drop Crtl for about 2 years as my daily driver at home and it was a keyboard I grew to love over time as it needs a lot of things done to make it great. The Stock plate-mount stabilizers on the Crtl is complete trash and you should replace them and lube the replacement set. Some keys can have a sharp ping like the Halo Clears on the board so it is recommended that if you have that issue to lube the switches and springs. Custom cables are a no go due the Crtl's high power requirement so stick with the stock cable unless you want the LEDs to dim all the time from the cable being too long. There is QMK but no via support. You will lose your LED settings if you unplug the keyboard. I will note that while the default stabilizers I got on my ctrl a few years ago were bad, as you said, the Shift I got much more recently came with totally great well lubricated stabilizers stock. So I think they've improved over time, similar to the GMMK which apparently now comes with lubed stabilizers and even internal foam? Vs the one I got ages back which had neither of those things.
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May 4, 2021 19:10
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So I forgot to get lube when I ordered m durock stabs, what is the Krytox lube made of? I have some Badger regdab airbrush lube I wonder if I could use instead.
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May 4, 2021 19:26
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ijyt posted:So I forgot to get lube when I ordered m durock stabs, what is the Krytox lube made of? I have some Badger regdab airbrush lube I wonder if I could use instead. go to autozone and get dielectric grease, it owns
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May 4, 2021 19:40
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alg posted:go to autozone and get dielectric grease, it owns Seconding this. This will make your stabs smooth. Is the Key Company a disorganized mess at the moment? My girlfriend ordered the magical girl portico and got a email to confirm her address for shipping. I look on their website and it still showing delayed to July 2021. Do they even know what the gently caress is going on in their own company?
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May 4, 2021 20:39
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TacticalHoodie posted:Seconding this. This will make your stabs smooth. Someone wrote a nice post about what’s wrong with TKC a page or 2-3 back I think. If you can, cancel your order and buy at a company that doesn’t consist of tramsphobic assholes trying to rip people off. Edit: start reading from here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3825351&perpage=40&noseen=1&pagenumber=189#post514095889 LochNessMonster fucked around with this message at 21:48 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 21:42
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LochNessMonster posted:Someone wrote a nice post about what’s wrong with TKC a page or 2-3 back I think. Specifically colors not matching renders which is pretty big for the portico mentioned 
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May 4, 2021 21:52
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Gwaihir posted:I'm sorta questioning what you'd consider reasonable if the drop cases are thin lol. My Ctrl weighs in at 3.95 pounds- Which is not at all far off from my fuckin Model M, which comes in at 4.5 pounds. Considering that's aluminum vs steel and TKL vs full size, the Ctrl is dense as hell. 4lbs is not a lot. This weighs 5lbs and it's like half the size of your TKL.  The biggest problem with the Ctrl isn't the overall mass, it's how it's distributed. The bottom is where all the weight is, but the sides and top are weak and flimsy. If it wasn't an integrated plate / acrylic sandwich, that bottom might actually count for something. But as it's constructed, you could bolt it to a 200lb steel table and it wouldn't feel or sound any better. TacticalHoodie posted:Seconding this. This will make your stabs smooth. lol "at the moment"? TKC's whole mission objective is "be a disorganized mess." ijyt posted:So I forgot to get lube when I ordered m durock stabs, what is the Krytox lube made of? I have some Badger regdab airbrush lube I wonder if I could use instead. Polytetrafluoroethylene. Basically liquid Teflon. You can use dielectric grease, but it won't feel the same. It will dampen sound better, but eventually it will dry out and get stickier and change how your stabs feel, and possibly impede their function. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:26 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 22:23
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Recent GMMK Pro and Drop discussion. I have (in parts) Drop’s collaboration with Input Club, the K Type which directly inspired the CTRL. It’s not a great board. Both sides immediately stopped supporting it after their relationship soured. Things that are bad on it: build quality is mediocre - the plate switch cuts needed a hair more space as switches requires force to insert and remove, the welds on the hotswaps paired with the snugness resulted in welds failing, the stock stabs sucked, the weird board power required that made cables and ports sometimes a little finicky; software sucked due to it being abandoned; and QC sucked, the key caps that came on mine weren’t right, ended up with two enters and only shift. The PCB also has the same auto route zaniness for its traces. The Pro I received the other week has been fine other than the space bar stabs need a little more lube love and the software kinda sucks, going to throw QMK on it once it is stable. Edit: it’s not a bad board and I think delivers a bit better than its price point. Not a GMMK fan boy, more so wanted to try out this specific 75% layout for my work desk as 60 and 65 don’t work for me. I got hosed on the Sat75 R2 GB due to their crap system, so it worked out better for me in the end at a fair cheaper price point.  The Electronaut fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 4, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 22:32
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Did they ever let you play snake with the RGB on the K-Type (lol)?
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May 4, 2021 22:50
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:4lbs is not a lot. Dude I think when the benchmark for weight is a Model M, then it kinda is lmao
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May 4, 2021 22:56
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Constellation I posted:Did they ever let you play snake with the RGB on the K-Type (lol)? That's the other thing: they haven't made much progress, if any, with their KLL language. They have a spec defined but it's primarily the one guy adding support for their newer keyboards and not actually implementing most of it. I guess technically you could program it yourself, but it's kind of a pain in the rear end in my experience. I think they at least support compilation on windows now, though?
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May 4, 2021 23:01
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Gwaihir posted:Dude I think when the benchmark for weight is a Model M, then it kinda is lmao I think it's largely a matter of perspective. For people that are in it as a hobby or are buying boards in Group Buys, 4lbs would be considered light. A quick look through some of the GB threads where weight is listed indicates that an average weight is right around 2.6kg, or nearly 6lbs and that's for smaller, 65%-ish boards. The vast majority of those kinds of keyboards come with a giant slab of barely-milled brass or stainless steel that act as a case weight and usually weigh 3+ lbs just on their own. The cases themselves are also almost entirely aluminum as well, in addition to brass plates that are fairly common, too. Compared to those, the Drop boards are on lighter side, but they're also designed for very different groups of people.
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May 4, 2021 23:52
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Drop keyboard chat: Just picked up a Drop ALT. It's my "premium" keyboard since most of the things I own are made by razr or cooler master. It feels nice and it gets the job down. I expected to want to customize it a bit but I like it how it is. The one nice thing about Drop is that they have boards available all the time now. You don't have to be apart of a GB or wait months. Thanks for all of the input on 75% keyboards. I think I'm just going to wait for my GMMK Pro. I like the 65% layout but I think a 75% layout would work better for work. I use the F keys a lot more than I realized. Might pick up a KBD67 Lite if they have extras or a Gamakay/Womier board so I can test out some of the extra switches I picked up.
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May 5, 2021 00:26
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Just waiting for some temporary keycaps and otherwise have my GMMK Pro finished, ended up just borrowing the grease from the stock stabs lol. Durock stabs fit with a bit of sanding of the brass plate but honestly I think I'm going to end up swapping it out for the polycarb when it's back in stock. I accidentally hosed up the finish of the brass plate and while I know I won't see most of it it still bugs me.
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May 5, 2021 00:39
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mariooncrack posted:The one nice thing about Drop is that they have boards available all the time now. You don't have to be apart of a GB or wait months. Yeah, that's basically why Drop is suggested. It's a premium board that usually instock and it's not crazy expensive. Even better is that it's stocked by Amazon, so it can easily be bought and returned. KBDFans is usually the next place to look to after Drop for usually available keyboards. But I think GMMK Pro will be the new go-to suggestion if they can resolve all the reported functional issues with some firmware updates. The stabs thing is annoying, but addressable as well with some elbow grease. With regards to Alt updates, when you get the itch, replace the stabilizers, as was already mentioned earlier, and throw some foam into the case. MKUltra sells precut stuff: https://mkultra.click/massdrop-alt-low-profile-foam-combo
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May 5, 2021 00:41
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What would adding foam to the case do?
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May 5, 2021 02:27
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mariooncrack posted:What would adding foam to the case do? Remove sound. Both good sounds and bad sounds. It basically just mutes the boards resonance and makes the board quieter. So you won't hear your stabs rattle as loudly, but you also will lose a lot more switch noise.
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May 5, 2021 04:11
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mariooncrack posted:What would adding foam to the case do? Reduces the amount of echoing/pinging from typing. It's not always desired, but I did it to my Drop Alt as I thought it was a bit too hollow sounding. You can hear a before and after here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha7BRla0du4&t=780s
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May 5, 2021 04:13
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Ok newbie idiot here, I'm assuming this is caused by the stabilisers on shift and space, what am I looking to fix here? https://imgur.com/iZY6A7V.mp4
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May 5, 2021 15:54
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Make sure the stab bars are going into the correct holes on the stab housing.
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May 5, 2021 16:02
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Gunder posted:Make sure the stab bars are going into the correct holes on the stab housing. Ah okay, time to take off this tight as gently caress brass plate again 
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May 5, 2021 16:11
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Hmm, thinking about
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May 5, 2021 16:12
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ijyt posted:Ok newbie idiot here, I'm assuming this is caused by the stabilisers on shift and space, what am I looking to fix here? Update, stabs are fine with the brass plate off, so I think the issue is somewhere there, time to experiment 
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May 5, 2021 16:32
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Stroop There It Is posted:Hmm, thinking about Look for the geekhack thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109440.0 Almost every group buy has a corresponding interest check thread on geekhack.
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May 5, 2021 17:12
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ijyt posted:Update, stabs are fine with the brass plate off, so I think the issue is somewhere there, time to experiment You might need to lube the stabs more. Or it still might be a problem with improperly seated stabs. Hard to say without being able to see the stabs themselves. I ended up with both problems in my first build despite them seeming to function during my initial checks.
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May 5, 2021 17:19
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.Z. posted:You might need to lube the stabs more. Or it still might be a problem with improperly seated stabs. Hard to say without being able to see the stabs themselves. I ended up with both problems in my first build despite them seeming to function during my initial checks. It's weird, I've filed the brass plate sockets now and while the fit is snug it doesn't need excessive pressure, the stabs work perfectly fine without the brass plate on. Going to check with the aluminum plate. e: Alu plate has no issue, so it must be something with the brass plate, I'm just not sure what. I assume it must be the actual slot for the stabs causing some weird pressure. ijyt fucked around with this message at 17:32 on May 5, 2021 |
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May 5, 2021 17:23
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interrodactyl posted:Look for the geekhack thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109440.0  Though the title is just PBT and not ePBT, so maybe it isn't ABS?
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May 5, 2021 17:38
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god help me reading this thread has cost me so much more money I got the Drop CTRL low profile back in December, had a WASD V2 with Browns as my daily driver since 2017. the ergo difference was amazing not having the TK the Halo Clears that came with the CTRL are okay I guess compared to the Holy Pandas that I swapped to. I lubed the Pandas and it made a huge difference versus stock, at some point I have to open those Clears up and do the same and try those out for a couple weeks but the switch housing is different and doesn't work with the switch opener I got so yeah I went down the rabbit hole of lubing switches and got that whole setup of Krytox and paintbrushes and switch opener ...and then got new Panda plate stabs but haven't installed them yet ...and a foam protective case for the CTRL since I go back and forth from home/work desks a lot now I have on order gateron Yellows and Blues, Zeal V2s 62g, foam for the CTRL from MKUltra, a new keycap set and that Laneware MACRO-1 ten key someone linked here because I miss having one
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May 5, 2021 19:20
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Hey guys! I dumped my coffee on my lovely old mechanical keyboard this morning so im gonna buy a new nicer one today. are the WASD keyboards still reccomended? Link is dead in the first post but it looks like they have others. Appreciate any help, i have 0 clue what to look for.
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May 5, 2021 21:59
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