The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

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Dogen: May 5, 2002; Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride

Your non Ethernet options are good mesh (as you suggest), moca, and powerline.

# ? May 6, 2021 03:43

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# ? Apr 18, 2024 04:29

movax: Aug 30, 2008

PageMaster posted:

I just moved into a 2400sf two story house that's not wired. My last two homes had ethernet in each room, and I ran a router with satellites (like unifi) to cover each floor. I'd like to not install ethernet right now, but the last time I had a single wireless router was maybe 8 years ago and at the time (and maybe still today) expectation for covering two floors was pretty unrealistic (and I was in a 1200sf home). Has tech improved in any way to make a router viable for this type of coverage, or even a mesh kit with satellites and dedicated backhaul? We stream 4k and play games, but don't need guaranteed ghz speeds, just want solid connection and coverage at playable pings.

Other online forums seem pretty zealous that ' you must install ethernet at all costs or else,' but I'm hoping that's not the only way to survive until we save up some money for renovations.

Is there coax? MoCA is solid.

# ? May 6, 2021 04:14

PageMaster: Nov 4, 2009

I didn't even know this was a thing, but unfortunately just the one coax where the service comes into the house.

Edit: was wrong, there's a male coax cable in the den, but a female coax connection on the second floor, so this might be good. Do I just need to buy MoCaA adaptors, connect on both ends, and I'm good to go? Will both ends automatically connect too each other or of it more complicated than that? Assuming I put the male cable into the router for the internet, can I use that same cable or do I need to find another coax outlet to run the ethernet from the router into?

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 06:02 on May 6, 2021

# ? May 6, 2021 04:37

Dogen: May 5, 2002; Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride

You can use the same cable, you need a splitter to do so, and you need to put a filter on the demarc if there isn�t one. The adapters are plug and play pretty much

# ? May 6, 2021 06:22

Zorak of Michigan: Jun 10, 2006

PageMaster posted:

I just moved into a 2400sf two story house that's not wired. My last two homes had ethernet in each room, and I ran a router with satellites (like unifi) to cover each floor. I'd like to not install ethernet right now, but the last time I had a single wireless router was maybe 8 years ago and at the time (and maybe still today) expectation for covering two floors was pretty unrealistic (and I was in a 1200sf home). Has tech improved in any way to make a router viable for this type of coverage, or even a mesh kit with satellites and dedicated backhaul? We stream 4k and play games, but don't need guaranteed ghz speeds, just want solid connection and coverage at playable pings.

Other online forums seem pretty zealous that ' you must install ethernet at all costs or else,' but I'm hoping that's not the only way to survive until we save up some money for renovations.

For what it's worth, our house is only a little smaller, and a Ubiquiti AP mounted on a first floor ceiling or more or less the exact center of the house gives us strong connections throughout the structure and out into the yard.

# ? May 6, 2021 15:21

Hexigrammus: May 22, 2006; Cheech Wizard stories are clean, wholesome, reflective truths that go great with the marijuana munchies and a blow job.

Hello Thread. My WRT54GL running DD-WRT is throwing some weird connections problems. Mainly an issue for my wife's Apple devices, but unfortunately it's also started affecting my Linux laptop.

Aging OP posted:

I don�t want / use Apple devices. Is the WRT54GL still the suggested router?

Oh, jeez, no. Throw that poo poo in the river.

Only if I can use it for sturgeon bait, but yes, I guess it's time. I've used Ubiquiti equipment in the past, the interface can be a bit crappy but otherwise...

SwissArmyDruid posted:

I used to like Ubiquiti. But then the top-end engineering talent left, and the marketing ghouls took over, and now they want to be the Apple of prosumer network hardware, where they know what's best for you, no, you don't have any options except to use the cloud.

I would like to stress that this is a very recent turnaround for Ubiquiti. From 2015 up until April of last year, I would have kept buying Ubiquiti hardware, but the news involving them over the past year has soured me considerably.

... well, poo poo. Nope, nope, and nope.

House is wired with Cat5e Ethernet.
Mix of Apple, Linux, and Windows machines, as well as miscellaneous cellphones.
Not a fan of the cloud or IoT so those devices are minimal.
Out in the woods, only one neighbour's wireless APs visible.
One NAS box on a static address so everything else can find it when the storm ends and the power comes back on.
Need a second router set up as an AP because the house while small has a lot of wood and stone that screws up reception at certain workstations.
Need a guest network to isolate the EV charger which has a bad habit of crap-flooding if it isn't isolated (similar problem as the Tesla EV charger). Did I mention I don't like the cloud/IoT?

iow, not a particularly complicated setup. Are the TP-Link Archer C7 & C9 still considered good bets or are there other models that have superseded them?

# ? May 6, 2021 23:12

Roundboy: Oct 21, 2008

Can someone provide an honest trip report of a Unfi 6 lite vs the nanohd ? I understand the wifi 6 difference but i am trying to see if there are other features / bandwidth / throughput issues. If i were to invest in the 6 it would probably be the LR.

I do not have 300 clients, but I get a bit paranoid about IOT devices and network congestion for simple home use. When all the kids are zooming on devices,.

# ? May 7, 2021 00:35

smax: Nov 9, 2009

Going from 2x UAP-AC-LRs to 2x U6-LRs doubled my real-world throughput on AC devices in my house.

No problems at all here.

# ? May 7, 2021 00:48

KKKLIP ART: Sep 3, 2004

I keep flip flopping but I kinda want to see what they do about 6E. I know there is a point of "just get the stupid thing" but thats kind of where I'm at.

# ? May 7, 2021 00:57

Cyks: Mar 17, 2008; The trenches of IT can scar a muppet for life

The u6-lrs look closer to the nanohd than the ac-lr. I don't know if you'll find many here who can give you a first hand comparison between the two but I'd personally go with the nanoHD over the u6-lite (or wait until the EAP 660 HD is back in stock at the same price).

I wonder if the HD name for WiFi 6 devices is going to be reserved for 2.5gb APs.

# ? May 7, 2021 01:20

Meldonox: Jan 13, 2006; Hey, are you listening to a word I'm saying?

I've got a pretty quick and easy question about new equipment. I'm outgrowing the ~6 year old stuff I have and work crunch right now is keeping me from putting in the time and effort to do much research into what's available.

What is your ISP? WideOpenWest cable
what speed are you paying for? 500/50
What speeds are you getting? 265/50 (I'm running an 8 down/4 up channel DOCSIS 3.0 modem)
All wifi? Wired? A mix, see use case details below.
How many floors? One
Budget? Doesn't particularly matter.
Are you willing to run cable? If I have to, but it's probably unnecessary.

My old Surfboard's held up well and all, but it obviously caps out well under what I'm getting, and at the rate my ISP upgrades their speeds I'll probably need to accommodate a gigabit or more within the next year or two. As for the LAN I've got an old Archer C7 that's pretty regularly making GBS threads the bed these days. Near-daily power cycles to get the wifi working again, etc. On top of this I hadn't even heard of Wifi 6 before I got the PS5 and now it seems like everything I'm planning on buying or being issued from work anytime soon comes with it.

I keep the modem and router in my office which opens into the living room. My PC is cabled directly into the router, and in the living room I use wifi for my PS5 (which is primarily a Plex box right now and has an unobstructed wifi signal from about 15-20' away). Those are the main two things that use any significant amount of bandwidth so I'm guessing it may not be worth the effort of running cable through the walls, especially since the PS5 is at the bottom of an 18' wall.

Given all that, what's a good option for a modem and router that'd last me a while?

# ? May 7, 2021 02:56

skipdogg: Nov 29, 2004; Resident SRT-4 Expert

You best options for a cable modem are in no particular order

Netgear CM1000/CM1200
ARRIS SurfBoard SB8200
Motorola MB8600

these are all Docsis 3.1 32 channel downstream gig capable.

I don't have an opinion on a home router. I moved to a pfSense box and Ubiquiti WAPs years ago and haven't looked back. Personally not a fan of TP-Link, had issues with their hardware before, but others seem to have a decent experience with them.

# ? May 7, 2021 16:09

PageMaster: Nov 4, 2009

Zorak of Michigan posted:

For what it's worth, our house is only a little smaller, and a Ubiquiti AP mounted on a first floor ceiling or more or less the exact center of the house gives us strong connections throughout the structure and out into the yard.

Thanks, I think between this (and possibly a newer router) and MoCA I have some backup options. We have a lot of walls opening up in the near future due repiping now so I'm going to give a wired network a try; not a whole house network but just running an Ethernet connection between the utility room on the first floor to office on the second floor so I can use my existing WAP. Any cable considerations to look out for with this? I remember back in the day having to be very specific with crossover vs straight-through cable depending on what is plugging into what, buy I think that isn't the case any more?

Edit: my previous houses were a 3 story, and a 2 story CMU/concrete home so my assumption that strong 2 story whole house coverage in a wood frame home being difficult could be completely wrong.

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 05:09 on May 9, 2021

# ? May 9, 2021 05:04

KKKLIP ART: Sep 3, 2004

So for their WAPs that support 2.5GbE uplink, does TP Link have a POE injector or switch that actually provides PoE with a 2.5GbE uplink because otherwise having that port seems useless.

# ? May 9, 2021 14:01

KS: Jun 10, 2003; Outrageous Lumpwad

Several companies sell mgig POE injectors, but they're really meant to be paired with an mgig POE switch. Theirs is TL-SG3210XHP-M2.

Speaking as an owner of an mgig switch and a bunch of 5gb APs, it is very much not worth the extra bucks. I can get to about 1.6gbit single client in near-perfect conditions with the best gear out there. You need dense client environments (we're talking 50+ per AP) for it to make any kind of real world difference.

# ? May 9, 2021 14:36

Cyks: Mar 17, 2008; The trenches of IT can scar a muppet for life

KKKLIP ART posted:

So for their WAPs that support 2.5GbE uplink, does TP Link have a POE injector or switch that actually provides PoE with a 2.5GbE uplink because otherwise having that port seems useless.

TL-SG3210XHP-M2, an 8-port 2.5Gbps PoE+ switch. It isn't readily available state side yet but it looks like it's going to be $350. At CES they showed off the TL-SX3206HPP which is 4x 10Gbps with Poe++ to go with the EAP 680 HD but no idea on pricing for those. The 660 HD does support a power supply though if you have an outlet nearby, if you want to use a non PoE switch.

# ? May 9, 2021 14:45

Neslepaks: Sep 3, 2003

Unifi has a poe 2.5g switch now which is tempting but even tho they say its for APs they don't actually sell a 2.5g capable AP yet.

# ? May 9, 2021 16:10

KKKLIP ART: Sep 3, 2004

Neslepaks posted:

Unifi has a poe 2.5g switch now which is tempting but even tho they say its for APs they don't actually sell a 2.5g capable AP yet.

My issue is I�m thinking about getting away from Ubiquiti for a few reasons I�ve mentioned up thread and I see folks seem to like the TP link and Ruckus APs. Just trying to figure out what I want to do because my AC-Lites are not cutting it. Also if it is the Unifi switch I am thinking it is, it�s a 2.5/5/10 and it�s $600 lmbo.

KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 17:10 on May 9, 2021

# ? May 9, 2021 17:07

Neslepaks: Sep 3, 2003

KKKLIP ART posted:

My issue is I’m thinking about getting away from Ubiquiti for a few reasons I’ve mentioned up thread and I see folks seem to like the TP link and Ruckus APs. Just trying to figure out what I want to do because my AC-Lites are not cutting it. Also if it is the Unifi switch I am thinking it is, it’s a 2.5/5/10 and it’s $600 lmbo.

Can you get a managed poe 2.5 switch for much less than that though?

# ? May 9, 2021 20:06

H2SO4: Sep 11, 2001; put your money in a log cabin; Buglord

The mgig stuff is a bit annoying, I just got some older brocade stuff that can do 10g SFP+ but I don't think they can negotiate down to anything but 1g.

# ? May 10, 2021 00:39

by.a.teammate: Jun 27, 2007; theres nothing wrong with the word panties

So i just upgraded to Virgin 1gb fibre but the router that came with it seems to have ruined what i had before, I was able to run my vr headset wirelessly off my computer but even though the new router does have a 5ghz channel and i've separated it and made sure nothing else was on it i get massive lag spikes where my previous router didn't.

So my first thought is to buy a router and just use the Virgin box as a modem, what's the best router for super solid quest 2 wireless connection plus all the usual normal wireless connections and the network being run upstairs to another wireless AP upstairs (at the moment via powerline but I'm looking to get it properly cabled in)

thanks

# ? May 10, 2021 13:45

brand engager: Mar 23, 2011

What are the recommended modems? I think my motorola mb8600 is dying. Sometimes after rebooting it the lights will show it's connected, but I can't reach the internet or the modem's internal 192.168.100.1 page. I also tried connecting my computer straight to it instead of the router and still nothing.

# ? May 12, 2021 18:31

skipdogg: Nov 29, 2004; Resident SRT-4 Expert

brand engager posted:

What are the recommended modems? I think my motorola mb8600 is dying. Sometimes after rebooting it the lights will show it's connected, but I can't reach the internet or the modem's internal 192.168.100.1 page. I also tried connecting my computer straight to it instead of the router and still nothing.

How old is it? Those have a 2 year warranty I think.

General recommended modems are:

Netgear CM1000/CM1200
ARRIS SurfBoard SB8200
Motorola MB8600

There are some higher end modems, but generally not worth the extra cost unless you just really want to future proof, and you have to make sure your provider supports them

# ? May 12, 2021 18:52

brand engager: Mar 23, 2011

skipdogg posted:

How old is it? Those have a 2 year warranty I think.

General recommended modems are:

Netgear CM1000/CM1200
ARRIS SurfBoard SB8200
Motorola MB8600

There are some higher end modems, but generally not worth the extra cost unless you just really want to future proof, and you have to make sure your provider supports them

I think I bought it in 2019. I thought they last longer than this but maybe all the power outages have been hard on it. It seems to act up the most when we have really strong storms, and it isn't plugged into an UPS.

# ? May 12, 2021 18:59

skipdogg: Nov 29, 2004; Resident SRT-4 Expert

Try just replacing the power supply if possible. A long long time ago whenever I saw a modem fail, it was usually the powersupply going out, and not the actual modem. If you have the tools to test the existing one, that would give you a good idea if that's the issue or not. You can also just take a chance on the powersupply if you buy somehwere with a good return policy.

I keep a universal power supply around, and it's useful for testing various power supplies for random electronics. https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Unive...20844848&sr=8-4 You could try picking something like this up. Make sure it can do 2.5 amps at 12 volts since thats what your modem wants.

# ? May 12, 2021 19:46

brand engager: Mar 23, 2011

skipdogg posted:

Try just replacing the power supply if possible. A long long time ago whenever I saw a modem fail, it was usually the powersupply going out, and not the actual modem. If you have the tools to test the existing one, that would give you a good idea if that's the issue or not. You can also just take a chance on the powersupply if you buy somehwere with a good return policy.

I keep a universal power supply around, and it's useful for testing various power supplies for random electronics. https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Unive...20844848&sr=8-4 You could try picking something like this up. Make sure it can do 2.5 amps at 12 volts since thats what your modem wants.

I ordered one of those universal power supplies but I'll probably pick up another modem after work anyways since I need a stable connection for wfh.

# ? May 12, 2021 20:45

brand engager: Mar 23, 2011

This ui is pretty goofy but it isn't getting any uncorrectables or doing any weird stuff. Also grabbed an UPS for the network stuff

# ? May 13, 2021 03:27

PageMaster: Nov 4, 2009

skipdogg posted:

How old is it? Those have a 2 year warranty I think.

General recommended modems are:

Netgear CM1000/CM1200
ARRIS SurfBoard SB8200
Motorola MB8600

There are some higher end modems, but generally not worth the extra cost unless you just really want to future proof, and you have to make sure your provider supports them

Are there any benefits beyond highest rated speed to look into when shopping for routers? Right now the one 'specs' I'm looking at are does it support (or is it approved for) my plan speed; don't know anything about number is channels or DOCSIS 3.0 vs 3.1.

# ? May 13, 2021 05:32

KKKLIP ART: Sep 3, 2004

I would go for 3.1 if your ISP supports it, especially if the price isn�t too different. No sense in doing otherwise

# ? May 13, 2021 12:04

Kreeblah: May 17, 2004; INSERT QUACK TO CONTINUE; Taco Defender

Kreeblah posted:

I got a couple of used R710s to replace my AC HD APs, and after reflashing them with the Unleashed firmware (it's free from CommScope/Ruckus and has nearly all the features of the regular one, but you don't need a separate controller, don't need a maintenance contract/software license to use/update them, and have a max of 25 APs you can have in the network), they've been pretty good. I used to have drops when migrating between APs with my Unifi gear (I'm guessing something with their 802.11r/v/k implementations), but with the Ruckus APs, I can be connected to a meeting over my work VPN, and it will just seamlessly transfer. Plus the range is pretty great. I'm sure my neighbors hate me, but I can get a usable signal all the way down the block. Their proprietary antenna magic really does seem to do something worthwhile.

There have only really been two downsides so far. One of them has to do with the very latest Unleashed firmware for them (200.9.10.4.233). I was getting kernel panics on it, so I had to use the immediately prior build (200.9.10.4.212) instead. Supposedly, it has something to do with having wifi calling prioritization enabled on that build, so if I really cared, I could try turning that off and upgrading again to test, but I haven't really cared enough to do that since they're apparently working on fixing it for the next release.

The other issue has to do with me living in a condo complex with lots of neighbors. If I turn on the option to have the APs automatically select the best channels to use, they sometimes switch multiple times a minute just due to how congested things are here, which dumps all the connected clients on the AP while that happens. So, unless I move somewhere else that's less congested, I just can't use that feature.

Dunno whether anybody cares, but to follow up on this, they just put out a new firmware version (200.9.10.4.243) a couple of days ago to address the FragAttacks poo poo, and they fixed the kernel panic bug in it. Now, I really only have one issue, and it's more an issue of living in a multi-unit complex.

# ? May 13, 2021 22:42

pmchem: Jan 22, 2010

What�s the go to home Wifi router these days, must be boomer friendly (no tomato or whatever custom firmware)?

I personally have an old netgear model and I�m less than happy with their firmware quality control, so I�d prefer a non netgear option if possible.

Just go with an archer from the OP is is that a bit dated?

Use case is basically Netflix, for an in-law.

pmchem fucked around with this message at 23:07 on May 15, 2021

# ? May 15, 2021 23:04

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

pmchem posted:

What�s the go to home Wifi router these days, must be boomer friendly (no tomato or whatever custom firmware)?

I personally have an old netgear model and I�m less than happy with their firmware quality control, so I�d prefer a non netgear option if possible.

Just go with an archer from the OP is is that a bit dated?

Use case is basically Netflix, for an in-law.

TP-Link Archer or maybe an ASUS. I steer away from some of the other brands but every manufacturer seems to have some bad models here and there so shopping by reviews isn't a bad idea. I had a friend ask me for advice on a router a few years back and suggested the Archer C7. I think it was unavailable at the local best buy so he got the C8 and he's had it going for a few years with no problems besides his family's rabbit chewing through the power cable and needing to get a replacement transformer at some point.

# ? May 16, 2021 00:15

Bioshuffle: Feb 10, 2011; No good deed goes unpunished

I'm looking to switch from Spectrum to a local company called Suddenlink. The only issue is they charge $10 to rent a modem. I already have a WIFI router, if I want to get 1GB speed, which of the following modems will suit my purposes? https://approvedmodemlist.com/suddenlink-approved-modems/ I see a huge discrepancy in the prices. I'm assuming some of them won't be able to handle the 1GB of bandwidth?

Should I contact the internet company and double check the compatibility?

# ? May 17, 2021 15:05

Warbird: May 23, 2012; America's Favorite Dumbass

Has anyone here dealt with putting Wallabag behind a reverse proxy by chance? The stupid thing is super particular about the passed hostname in the docker config and it just isn't having it with Synology's reverse proxy. I've tried every combination of domain/protocol/port/DDNS name I can think of and the damned thing just won't.

# ? May 17, 2021 15:36

skipdogg: Nov 29, 2004; Resident SRT-4 Expert

Bioshuffle posted:

I'm looking to switch from Spectrum to a local company called Suddenlink. The only issue is they charge $10 to rent a modem. I already have a WIFI router, if I want to get 1GB speed, which of the following modems will suit my purposes? https://approvedmodemlist.com/suddenlink-approved-modems/ I see a huge discrepancy in the prices. I'm assuming some of them won't be able to handle the 1GB of bandwidth?

Should I contact the internet company and double check the compatibility?

For 1GB service you need a 32 channel modem. You'll see them called 32x8 or 32 channel downstream.

It's always a good idea to verify that your ISP supports a particular modem before you decide to spend the money on one, ISP support is more important than any other feature. Under the hood all these modems are basically the same broadcom chipset anyway, so brand name doesn't really matter.

In no particular order all these modems are fine: I prefer the SurfBoard for personal reasons, but the MB8600 by all accounts is a very good modem as well and can sometimes be had a little less expensively. I don't have an opinion on the Netgear as I'm unfamiliar with them. That's not saying they are good or bad, I just don't know.

Netgear CM1000/CM1200
ARRIS SurfBoard SB8200
Motorola MB8600

There are some newer more expensive models that claim speeds up to 3 gigs, or have 2+ gig interfaces, but those are almost always right now going to be ISP provided and not worth an average home user buying right now. Surfboard S33, and MB8611

# ? May 17, 2021 15:43

Kreeblah: May 17, 2004; INSERT QUACK TO CONTINUE; Taco Defender

skipdogg posted:

For 1GB service you need a 32 channel modem. You'll see them called 32x8 or 32 channel downstream.

It's always a good idea to verify that your ISP supports a particular modem before you decide to spend the money on one, ISP support is more important than any other feature. Under the hood all these modems are basically the same broadcom chipset anyway, so brand name doesn't really matter.

In no particular order all these modems are fine: I prefer the SurfBoard for personal reasons, but the MB8600 by all accounts is a very good modem as well and can sometimes be had a little less expensively. I don't have an opinion on the Netgear as I'm unfamiliar with them. That's not saying they are good or bad, I just don't know.

Netgear CM1000/CM1200
ARRIS SurfBoard SB8200
Motorola MB8600

There are some newer more expensive models that claim speeds up to 3 gigs, or have 2+ gig interfaces, but those are almost always right now going to be ISP provided and not worth an average home user buying right now. Surfboard S33, and MB8611

Back when I was on cable instead of fiber, I used an SB8200, and it was fantastic. Somebody on DSLReports did a teardown of it, and it's just beautifully engineered inside.

# ? May 18, 2021 00:57

some kinda jackal: Feb 25, 2003; �
�

Has anyone successfully managed to get an EdgeRouter running EdgeOS to hand out a DHCP option 119 (domain-search) that isn't the default system domain name? I set up a lab subnet for my stupid toys I spin up and gave it a separate domain name (home.lab, let's say). My ERL hands out home.local as a DHCP domain name and seems to assign the same to "option domain-search".

I did find this

https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/204960074-EdgeRouter-Custom-DHCP-Server-Options

but the built in edgeos config generator seems to overwrite the domain-search (that is to say, they both appear in the config)

e:

adding:

code:

set service dhcp-server shared-network-name DHCP_LAN subnet 10.0.78.0/24 subnet-parameters "option domain-search "home.local", "home.lab";"

results in:

code:

# generated by /opt/vyatta/sbin/dhcpd-config.pl

...

shared-network DHCP_LAN {
	not authoritative;
	subnet 10.0.78.0 netmask 255.255.255.0 {
		...
                option domain-search "home.local", "home.lab";
		option domain-search "home.local";
                ...
	}
}

and the second likely overwrites the first.

some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:40 on May 22, 2021

# ? May 22, 2021 14:05

Neslepaks: Sep 3, 2003

According to vyos docs "This option can be given multiple times if you need multiple search domains (DHCP Option 119)."

So trying to set several on the same line is probably wrong.

# ? May 22, 2021 17:50

some kinda jackal: Feb 25, 2003; �
�

Hmm. The problem is that there is no actual �configure� command to set domain-search so I have to go the �subnet parameter� way. I will try maybe setting just the second domain name in the subnet parameter and see if it somehow is smart enough to realize that two of the same options combine into a number of domains.

# ? May 22, 2021 21:34

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# ? Apr 18, 2024 04:29

some kinda jackal: Feb 25, 2003; �
�

Oh! I think I got it!

I had to pore through /opt/vyatta/sbin/dhcpd-config.pl to find this:

code:

 my $domain_name = $vcDHCP->returnValue(
                            "$name subnet $subnet domain-name");
                        my @domain_names = split ' ', $domain_name;    
                        my $first_domain_name = $domain_names[0];    
                        if ( scalar (@domain_names) > 0 ) {         
                            $genout .=                                
                              "\t\toption domain-name \"$first_domain_name\";\n";
 
                            my $domain_search = join ', ', map { qq/"$_"/ } @domain_names;
                            $genout .=                          
                              "\t\toption domain-search $domain_search;\n";
                        }

But it looks like I need to set

set service dhcp-server shared-network-name blah subnet n.n.n.n/n domain-name "domain1 domain2"

and then the script parses domain1 as the actual domain for the DHCP assignment, and concats domain1 and domain2 for a proper option 119

e: Sorry for doublepost

# ? May 22, 2021 21:40

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

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