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your credit score isn't gonna change that much
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May 12, 2021 15:55
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From what I understand, deposits are non-binding and the vehicle can be sold to the next person who rolls up with a bag of cash.
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May 12, 2021 16:05
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Nitrox posted:I've been buying minivans for a decade now and went Voyager, Odyssey, Sienna, Grand Caravan, and now Pacifica. If buying used, you pay less for equivalent Chrysler product, but statistically they are more problematic. In my personal anecdotal experience, Honda had the best road dynamics and the most expensive problems. Sienna felt like the most boring appliance and came with the least amount of options, especially at the price point. But after 60k/5 year mark, The Chrysler products give you top tier luxury options for nearly half the price. It's worth it to me, and may be too you as well. Good luck I'm looking for reliability and value. What's a good cheap-ish and safe minivan?
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May 12, 2021 17:30
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Uthor posted:From what I understand, deposits are non-binding and the vehicle can be sold to the next person who rolls up with a bag of cash. Deposits are whatever you and the person you're negotiating with agree on. Good luck enforcing that though.
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May 12, 2021 18:32
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Wife and I are moving to the US, Atlanta, in August and need a car. I'm a US citizen and have good credit, just haven't lived in the US for some time. Proposed Budget: 10k. New or Used: Used. Body Style: 4 door. Something like a Corolla but no particular preference. How will you be using the car?: Commuting to the city. Occasional road trips to DC or Florida to visit family. What aspects are most important to you? Nothing in particular. We've had the same basic car for 8 years without any issues. We're trying to keep cost of living low until for the next few years as she'll be in college so our income will be more limited than usual. We can both drive stick shift. As an aside, I'd rather stick to reputable dealerships that will allow me to close on something fast, even if it adds a bit to the cost. Every day I don't have a car over there means I'll have to rent one, so any savings I might get from shopping around on private sales would probably be quickly eaten up by that.
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May 12, 2021 18:36
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You're a perfect Carvana candidate. See what they have on their website in your area. Just make sure you get a PPI done at an independent mechanic before buying.
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May 12, 2021 18:39
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KillHour posted:You're a perfect Carvana candidate. See what they have on their website in your area. Just make sure you get a PPI done at an independent mechanic before buying. I thought Carvana didn't do test-drives / PPIs, but their return policy lets you give the car back if you don't like it after you buy it. With that said: Ur Getting Fatter posted:As an aside, I'd rather stick to reputable dealerships that will allow me to close on something fast, even if it adds a bit to the cost. Every day I don't have a car over there means I'll have to rent one, so any savings I might get from shopping around on private sales would probably be quickly eaten up by that. You are overestimating the cost of a rental car, and you're looking for something incredibly generic / common. The only thing that makes this whole thing messy is the fact that the used market is turbofucked right now.
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May 12, 2021 18:51
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KillHour posted:You're a perfect Carvana candidate. See what they have on their website in your area. Just make sure you get a PPI done at an independent mechanic before buying. Getting an inspection “before buying” is a bit challenging with Carvana. But, you can use the seven day return window to end up with the same result. Just make very sure that you actually get it inspected, and don’t let yourself get too attached to it as “your car” until the inspection comes back with a clean bill of health.
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May 12, 2021 18:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:I thought Carvana didn't do test-drives / PPIs, but their return policy lets you give the car back if you don't like it after you buy it. I guess I'm expecting a rental car to be around 50 dollars a day, with about an average of 3 weeks search time, for a total cost of around $1000, which is about 10% of the cost of the car. Even if it's half that, idk if you can get a 5% savings from shopping around in this market. Plus a whole move-in process to another country, for added stress. It just doesn't seem worth it? I'm 100% open to getting told I'm completely wrong. dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 19:24 on May 12, 2021 |
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May 12, 2021 19:08
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I think your logic is sound. Rental car costs aren't that high but the pain in the rear end factor is probably worth hitting up Carvana.
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May 12, 2021 19:36
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Three weeks seems like a long search time, and the only other thing I'd consider is whether or not there's any other differences in transaction costs (i.e. in AZ a private party purchase skips 8% sales tax). At any rate, it doesn't hurt to just search the inventory for what's out there (both private and dealer) and decide if there's anything a private seller has that you want to buy.
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May 12, 2021 19:46
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the OP is repatriating to the US. they have more important concerns than saving a small amount of money on their used car. i would agree with you in normal circumstances but these are not normal circumstances.
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May 12, 2021 19:48
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Isn't a rental car after taxes, fees, add-ons etc more like $80/day if you want something bigger than a Fiesta/Soul? Budget near me (Sacramento, CA) has as the lowest price of $58 for those two and that's before taxes, etc and if you pay up front. A Mazda CX5 is more like $140 and of course it's $5.49/day more for NAV access and $7.99/day for SatRadio.  I do remember paying like $42/day back in 2016 or so for something like a Cruze/Altima though. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 21:09 on May 12, 2021 |
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May 12, 2021 21:06
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Residency Evil posted:For my own education, what would the issue be in this case? Presumably the title was signed by the previous owner, he can put his name on it (since the current "owner" presumably hasn't filled out the title with his name on it), and then go register the car/get a new title, right? To follow up on that particular seller, he called me today ( I was first on his list for next week, and had agreed to let me take it to my shop). He informed me that he’s had a lot of calls since, and even though he’s out of town until this weekend, one guy was even willing to PayPal him the amount today! But since I was the first one to call, he’d be willing to sell it to me on Sunday but not take it to a shop. I thanked him for the call and said bye.
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May 12, 2021 21:15
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LionArcher posted:To follow up on that particular seller, he called me today ( I was first on his list for next week, and had agreed to let me take it to my shop). He informed me that he’s had a lot of calls since, and even though he’s out of town until this weekend, one guy was even willing to PayPal him the amount today! But since I was the first one to call, he’d be willing to sell it to me on Sunday but not take it to a shop. I thanked him for the call and said bye. you did the right thing 100% if he actually had another guy willing to paypal him without an inspection he would have sold it to that guy already
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May 12, 2021 21:40
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Proposed Budget: 15-25k New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan (most likely) How will you be using the car?: Daily driving around town. What aspects are most important to you? Safety, speed, comfort, reliability - probably in that order. Currently drive a 2012 Mazda3 2.0 hatch with 77k. Car has been fantastically reliable and nothing wrong with it. Financially, the right decision would be to just keep this. But you only live once and I'm desiring something nicer (and can definitely afford it within the budget). I like high power cars and I like to accelerate. I like comfortable cushy cars like Lincolns. I have twin 3 year olds so I can't have a separate sports car like I have in the past (Z06 and GTO). I work from home and take the kids to school every day and otherwise just run around town. Annual driving for this car is around 4-5k miles. For that reason, I could care less about MPG or premium gas. Given the budget and my wants I know there is give and take. Basically I've been settling on a sedan with a big thirty V8 that goes 'fast' (close to or under 5sec 0-60) when I smash the pedal - like a Charger R/T for example. I'm fine knowing this car won't go fast through mountain twisty roads and won't ever see a track. I want to take my kids to school in comfort (including more space) and be able to go fast in a straight line occasionally. I like safety features but things like lane departure or ACC aren't a big deal or must haves, but I'm not against them either. I'm like to get the newest / lowest mile option that meets the requirements and budget. Ideally I'll have this car for the next 10+ years, including it remaining my daily when I eventually do get a real sports car (probably 15 years given the kids lol). Where is the sweet spot for year / mileage / model for me? Things I've been looking at: Charger R/T 300 C Lexus LS 460 Taurus SHO I've also considered some things like a v6 Camry or Lexus. I haven't been considering European cars due to maintenance costs. I've also considered some coupes like a Mustang or Camaro. I'm kind of all over the place because I'm not sure where I want to fall in terms of age, mileage and features. I'm more feature over form so I don't bind something boring looking. Things like a high mileage Charger R/T scare me because I imagine they get driven hard. Something like a v6 ecoboost SHO speaks to me in comfy couch that can get off the line (and newer and lower mileage than a Charger R/T). Sorry this post is all over the place. Any thoughts to help me narrow this down? I'm looking to buy really anytime from now to within the next few years, so not an immediate buy and I can be patient with what I look for. I also live in a medium population town so options aren't nearly as available as large cities either which complicates things. So yeah, I want to feel a little pampered but mainly I've been missing any sort of go fast feeling and am looking for a vehicle to combine those two.
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May 12, 2021 23:29
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Used ATS/CTS Vsport or whatever the follow ones were. I think a full V might be at/out of your price range.
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May 12, 2021 23:43
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Keyser_Soze posted:Isn't a rental car after taxes, fees, add-ons etc more like $80/day if you want something bigger than a Fiesta/Soul? Are you renting at the airport? Never rent at the airport. Extra $20 in fees also, never pay for nav or sat radio as everything has android auto now. Also, if you're renting for a longer period you can get a discount. Like enterprise by my house in Sacramento is like $450/wk for a Jetta all in. Admittedly rental car rates are still way the gently caress up, that used to be like 200-300, due to shortages, but still cheaper than buying the wrong car
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May 13, 2021 00:15
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Maksimus54 posted:Dafuq? It just means that some sort of body fluid has been in the car Most of the time if the car seems otherwise intact it just means that someone cut their hand trying to break a window or a girl had her period or something. But it could absolutely also mean that someone blew their brains out in the driver seat Filtering the salvage auction sites to “biohazard” can lead to some pretty dark poo poo
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May 13, 2021 04:25
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It's just so weird. Like if you have some incredible diarrhea explosion (or whatever the hell) and get it taken to a professional detailer and pay them too-small sum they will ask for, which loving business reports that to Carfax? I don't understand. Now if it's been in an accident and sent to insurance adjusters or whatever and there's blood reported, that's more understandable that Carfax would get wind of it, but also takes it to a whole other level of red flag.
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May 13, 2021 04:39
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"Runs great, no rust. Last owner killed by mob. Needs new windshield. Few bullet holes. $5000 OBO."
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May 13, 2021 04:53
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Inner Light posted:It's just so weird. Like if you have some incredible diarrhea explosion (or whatever the hell) and get it taken to a professional detailer and pay them too-small sum they will ask for, which loving business reports that to Carfax? I don't understand. Now if it's been in an accident and sent to insurance adjusters or whatever and there's blood reported, that's more understandable that Carfax would get wind of it, but also takes it to a whole other level of red flag. You have this right. These have to be insurance-reported issues. Your local early 20 somethings with a detailing shop are not reporting to carfax.
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May 13, 2021 05:16
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I've managed to survive in Seattle for 6 years without a car, but my husband and I are finally in a comfortable enough financial position to buy something! This is the first time in my life that I'll own a car that's not 20 years old and $1500, and I could use some guidance so I don't just go and buy the first thing I see OR overthink it and give myself an ulcer. Proposed Budget: $8000 cash New or Used[/b]: Used Body Style: Compact or midsize, 4 door. How will you be using the car?: Occasional work commute (30-40 minute drive, highway, a few times a month), but other than that mostly city driving and occasional road trips. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) Reliability, ease of maintenance, automatic transmission. Husband wants something Japanese, but that's negotiable.
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May 13, 2021 05:28
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Evelyn Nesbit posted:I've managed to survive in Seattle for 6 years without a car, but my husband and I are finally in a comfortable enough financial position to buy something! This is the first time in my life that I'll own a car that's not 20 years old and $1500, and I could use some guidance so I don't just go and buy the first thing I see OR overthink it and give myself an ulcer. How do you feel about a: P R I U S Seriously though, if Prius does not appeal to you, please explain why  . At 8k you're starting to get a little rough in terms of age unless you get the cheapest and smallest type of econoboxes, so you'll want something reliable.
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May 13, 2021 05:41
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Also does $8000 cash mean that’s your desired total purchase amount or merely the potential downpayment on a financed vehicle? for each ~12k financed at 2% for 60mo, it’s about $250/mo So you could buy a 20k car and have $250/mo payments for 5 years. Something like that.
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May 13, 2021 13:56
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Loan Dusty Road posted:Proposed Budget: 15-25k Howdy sir, resident Ford homer, and Taurus SHO owner of 7 years here. I have a 2013 SHO. This is going to be all over the place. I'll ramble on a bit about the SHO, and hopefully it helps you make an informed decision 2 things I want to get out of the way first after reading your post regarding the SHO. 1- It's a "quick" car, but it's not what I consider fast. It's about a 6 second 0-60, maybe a tiny bit under. It's not anywhere close to 5 seconds in default trim. There is an available Performance Package that some SHO cars came with that adjusted the gearing so they're faster off the line. Those will get you down around 5.2 to 5.3 0-60. I do not have the performance package on my car, and I've been happy with the car since I bought it. I'm not out drag racing R/T's and Scat Packs though. The AWD system works really well, the car just kinda digs in and scoots. No wheelspin, traction issues, anything like that. Not a whole lot of drama compared to an R/T that'll spin the wheels and make angry V8 Hemi noises. 2- despite being a full size sedan, the front interior space feels cramped to some people due to the way the cockpit is designed. You'll have to sit in one and drive it to see how you feel about it. Backseat is fine, I've had 2 car seats back there almost the entire time I owned it. Big Britax ones. No problem at all. My kids are 11 and 9 now though, so I'm finally done with car seats. Random thoughts Maintenance costs are very reasonable. Normal Ford oil changes, no bespoke parts, fancy moon rock oil, or anything like that. The 3.5L EcoBoost and 6F55 transmission are in millions of cars (Explorers, Flex, Taurus) and generally are considered pretty solid. Parts are inexpensive and pretty much Ford parts bin due to the common platform. The Ford D4 platform was very common, and under the body the Explorer, Flex, Taurus, Lincoln MKS, and MKT of that era are all pretty much the exact same car. My wife's old Explorer Sport was basically a Taurus SHO with an Explorer body on it. In 7 years the only thing that has broken on my car was the windshield washer pump motor which cost 20 bucks and took 15 minutes to replace. The rear power sunshade is broken as well, but that happens to almost all these cars and it's not worth fixing. A dumb plastic gear breaks and its a huge PITA to fix. My windows are tinted so I don't care about it at all. All other costs have just been routine maintenance of wear items. 1 set of brakes, 1 set of tires, transmission service around 55K, 2 batteries, and oil changes every 6 months or 5K miles whichever comes first. I couldn't really ask for a more reliable car. There are 2 known issues with the drivetrain though. 1- The internal water pump seals on the 3.5L ecoboost can leak, and if not caught early can cause major engine damage. Oil and coolant don't mix well, and by the time most people catch it, it's not good. I started sending my oil off to blackstone now that I'm at around 80K miles on the car. I want to catch it early if it happens. It's a labor intensive job though, about 1400 to 2,000 dollars to fix at a shop. 2 - The PTO for the AWD system was designed to be a "lifetime fill" and isn't easy to service. The gear oil can get really funky though, and while I don't consider it a time bomb, there are some folks who have had to have their PTO's replaced. This also runs about 2000 bucks from what I've heard. You can google ford PTO issues.. Gas mileage is pretty decent in the SHO. I see 17 in the city (14-15 if I'm really driving the piss out of it), but will easily see 25mpg on the highway. I've seen as high as 28 in heavy traffic where speeds were limited to around 60mph. Here in TX we do like 80 everywhere. I only run 93 octane in the car. It'll run on 87, but it's happiest with 91+ The ride is what I consider a pretty good compromise between comfy and sporty. If you want more comfy, a Lincoln MKS with the same drivetrain is an option. It's a fantastic highway cruiser. Plenty of power, good ride, good stereo. The SHO can be a good value. Depreciation hit those things hard as hell. I paid 28.5 for mine with 18K miles on it in Feb 2014 when it was only 1.5 years old. Sticker was like 45K I think. Mine is fully loaded except for the sun roof. Heated/Cooled/Massaging seats, radar cruise, collision warning (no assist), BLIS, auto parallel parking(never used it). Really great set of features for a MY 2013 vehicle. There's a decent modding scene out there for them, but a lot of people never bothered. It's a 4400 pound car. Do avoid a modded one though. They do respond really well to a 600 dollar tune though. I have no idea what they go for these days, but KBB on my car is down to like 9K. Ford had a ton of cash on the hood on them as well when they were selling new. Towards the end, I think I saw almost 10K in rebates and discounts on them. The 2017-2019 SHO's have Sync 3 which is android/carplay compatible if that's important to you. Avoid the 2010-2012 models. The 2013 and newer had some hardware changed... better brakes, cooling system improvement. Overall I've been really happy with the car. This is the longest I've ever owned a car, and I still don't have the urge to replace it. I don't drive as much anymore to be fair, but nothing else I can readily afford really excites me or would be much of an improvement really. If you have any specific questions about the car feel free to ask.
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May 13, 2021 17:31
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skipdogg posted:Howdy sir, resident Ford homer, and Taurus SHO owner of 7 years here. I have a 2013 SHO. Super helpful, thank you so much for the detailed reply. I actually have a 2017 SHO on a 24 hour test drive right now. I'm actually surprised out how quick it is given the size. Super comfy and all the loaded features are much nicer than anything I've had before. I've read about the PTU issues but seems not a big deal if you get the fluid changed every 50k or so? This one has 43k right now, so if I do buy I think I'll have that done soon. So far seems exactly what I'm looking for in a dad car.
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May 13, 2021 18:19
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Skipdogg is super cool because he gave me a long and informative PM when I asked about SHOs a few months ago. Thanks skipdogg!
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May 13, 2021 18:31
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Thats awesome, what are they asking for it? Are they selling it CPO?
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May 13, 2021 18:36
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I'm officially giving up looking for at least 9 months after a week of car trying out hell. There was a Lexus SUV yesterday that was special. The owner said a buddy did the brake work and when trying out the RX getting off the free way (I warned him I would test the breaks them pump feather them) the car beeped at me three times, and then I lost the ability to break or accelerate for a second. No danger (I'm a conservative driver already, so plenty of lead time) and he said "I've never had that happen before!). we got out back at the parking lot where we met and he asked if I wanted to make an offer. I told him no thanks, but thanks for the test drive. He got grumpy and asked why not, and I mentioned the engine locking up thing. his response was, "Well you were breaking pretty hard!" and then stormed off. Also, if you're going to recommend Prius in this thread (I was originally planning on getting one) remember to warn everyone about the part being stolen off of them. Happened to a friend of mines neighbor and they live in a sleepy suburb
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May 13, 2021 22:35
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Hey y’all, I’m considering selling my 2016 Civic to Carvana, since they’re offering me around $4,000 than what I still owe on it, and taking that extra to roll towards a used car. Specifically, I found a 2012 Subaru Legacy 3.5R Limited for about $8,900 with 182k miles on it. Aside from making sure the timing belt has been replaced recently, what else should I be checking on with this year/make/model if anyone knows? Also if Carvana is some kind of scam that will end up loving me out of my car and my money, let me know that too, please.
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May 13, 2021 22:35
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LionArcher posted:I'm officially giving up looking for at least 9 months after a week of car trying out hell. Are you starting off your searches with a set of criteria plugged in and sorting by price ascending? I don't know how you're coming across this many straight up turds otherwise. Delaying a car purchase right now is probably GWM anyway as long as not buying a car isn't causing other problems, because every automotive market is at least slightly hosed.
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May 13, 2021 22:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are you starting off your searches with a set of criteria plugged in and sorting by price ascending? I don't know how you're coming across this many straight up turds otherwise. I've looked at big lots/small lots, private sellers cars. I'm flexible in terms of what I wanted/also wanted to try out a few things. I wanted either silver or white since they are safer colors than anything else other than yellow, and either wanted a Honda/toyota because everything else is less well made. Originally was just going to be a Prius until the theft issue came up. Then it moved to civic/corolla/camry/accord/Rav4/LexusRX350. I tried out all of them, and the one I actually liked was the Rav4 hybrid. The corolla (a 2015 with 84K for 16grand from the dealership) was fine to drive, but holy poo poo do I not like the ac controls. And I'm not willing to spend new Rav4Prime price right now. my corolla needs an oil change (scheduled for next week) and is a 1994 with 223 thousand miles on it, standard transmission. I can keep driving it. It handles great. I just was hoping I could get something newish right now. But I live in a smaller area, and it's just a turbofucked market. So I'll wait. LionArcher fucked around with this message at 23:30 on May 13, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 23:22
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Branch Nvidian posted:Hey y’all, I’m considering selling my 2016 Civic to Carvana, since they’re offering me around $4,000 than what I still owe on it, and taking that extra to roll towards a used car. Specifically, I found a Keep your Civic.
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May 14, 2021 00:10
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Yeah a newer Civic is a much better bet than an older Legacy, especially considering the astronomical milage on that one you posted. The fact that you know the service history of the Civic is also a huge point in favor of the Civic. Plus Subaru boxers have had their fair share of issues (Oil-consumption, overheating, head gaskets, etc.).
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May 14, 2021 00:41
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Keep your Civic. DildenAnders posted:Yeah a newer Civic is a much better bet than an older Legacy, especially considering the astronomical milage on that one you posted. The fact that you know the service history of the Civic is also a huge point in favor of the Civic. Plus Subaru boxers have had their fair share of issues (Oil-consumption, overheating, head gaskets, etc.). Thanks y’all. I really needed a “sanity check” regarding it.
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May 14, 2021 01:06
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DNK posted:Also does $8000 cash mean that’s your desired total purchase amount or merely the potential downpayment on a financed vehicle? $8000 would be the desired total purchase, I really don't want to finance unless we have to. Inner Light posted:How do you feel about a: I feel positively about the Prius! It looks like most of the ones I'm seeing in our price range are 2012 models and older, is there anything in particular I should be looking out for with that age?
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May 14, 2021 01:11
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Branch Nvidian posted:Thanks y’all. I really needed a “sanity check” regarding it. That Civic will run forever and be the perfect reliable vehicle with basic maintenance. Pay it off, keep driving it and enjoy not having a car payment.
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May 14, 2021 01:32
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skipdogg posted:Thats awesome, what are they asking for it? Are they selling it CPO? 26k at Carmax. Looks to have been a company exec lease. They also have a 2017 MKZ 3.0T on the lot but I missed it by a day. Wife didn’t get a chance to give it a go really so we have it on hold through Saturday to take another look. I definitely wish it had the performance package instead of the ACC one which I’ll never really use. Not sure it’s worth holding out for given I’m in a limited market though.
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May 14, 2021 01:59
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Evelyn Nesbit posted:$8000 would be the desired total purchase, I really don't want to finance unless we have to. In general avoid 2010's. They're the only real lemon year that I'm aware of, because of common oil leakage issues. That being said, Cadillac converters are being cut off of them at a high rate. So if you do get one, have a body shop weld a metal cover over it to discourage thieves.
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May 14, 2021 02:23
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