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blk posted:https://imgur.com/ZYqkMtJ OK, there are several possibilities here. 1. The spring on the left has popped out of the retention hole. 2. Just needs the tension adjusted (little screws). 3. The spring on the left needs to be placed into a different retention hole to allow for greater tension. The authority: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html
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May 12, 2021 19:43
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Can't see from the video but make sure the pad isn't too high so it sticks underneath the tire when you release the lever.
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May 12, 2021 19:57
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blk posted:https://imgur.com/ZYqkMtJ You've got the tension screws set un-evenly, so the side that sticks doesn't have enough spring tension to retract off the rim:  If you're already comfortable popping the brakes off the fork, it's probably worth running through this whole guide (or at least parts 2 and 6) and getting them set just right https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service.
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May 12, 2021 20:16
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Looks like a little more spring pressure on the left side there would do it.
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May 12, 2021 21:02
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It was the spring; many thanks!
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May 12, 2021 21:39
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It sounds like you solved it, but I didn't see anyone mention a little trip flo on the brake post. Sometimes some light sanding in the past us needed, especially if it has any paint build up. If you disconnect the cable, you can manually manipulate the arm and check for stiction. Sometimes increasing the spring tension is a compensation for stiction and as things settle the issue might flip sides.
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May 13, 2021 14:44
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Sorry, wrong thread Cat Ass Trophy fucked around with this message at 20:11 on May 13, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 20:09
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I finally got myself a hitch rack, which ended up being a thule camber 2 the thing itself is steel and very solid, however it has a pretty serious security flaw in that those three bolts on the side are easily removable so the whole top half of the rack can be taken off in <1 minute. I don't plan on leaving my bikes locked up to my trailer hitch for any extended periods of time, but when it inevitably does happen I'd like potential thieves to need more than a wrench. in addition to a heavy-duty chain that loops through a steel ring on the car's trailer hitch itself (meaning potential thieves have no choice but to actually cut the chain to remove the bike from the car), i plan to lock the bike to the rack itself with 15mm u-locks. that second line of defense is completely undermined if the top of the rack can just be removed from its socket. I was thinking of lining the threads with locktite red, maybe shoring up the lug nuts with some JD Weld cold-weld epoxy? that's the best that I can think of short of actually welding the lug nuts to the bolts. would that be sufficient to keep a really determined person from unscrewing them?
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May 13, 2021 20:26
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God Hole posted:I finally got myself a hitch rack, which ended up being a thule camber 2 Maybe replace them with security bolts? When I used a hitch rack I always tried to reverse up to a solid wall, try to give any thieves as little room as possible. also If they can't see it they can't steal it. [ 
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May 14, 2021 10:55
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E- nevermind read the instructions
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 15, 2021 01:25
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The braking cables on my gardener's bike (Schwinn Impact MOS, circa 1990) snapped and he lost a few of the bolts holding the brakes in place. Are cantilever brakes a bitch to put together? Seems like lots of small individual pieces that have to be adjusted. Don't think I can do V-brakes as he'd need new braking levers (and money is a huge factor).
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May 16, 2021 15:32
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Tortilla Maker posted:The braking cables on my gardener's bike (Schwinn Impact MOS, circa 1990) snapped and he lost a few of the bolts holding the brakes in place. I would think if he went to one of those community shops with a hundred lovely bikes in the back they could piece something together for like $30. It might be hard to find the right thing to buy online/used without having a bunch of supply to try on the bike and see what works.
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May 16, 2021 15:51
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Tortilla Maker posted:The braking cables on my gardener's bike (Schwinn Impact MOS, circa 1990) snapped and he lost a few of the bolts holding the brakes in place. Tektro Mini Vs are road pull if you can find em.
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May 16, 2021 16:50
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Tortilla Maker posted:Don't think I can do V-brakes as he'd need new braking levers (and money is a huge factor). Flat bar brakes should be able to pull V-brakes, which are likely strong enough to make up whatever oil difference there might be.
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May 16, 2021 18:09
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Tortilla Maker posted:The braking cables on my gardener's bike (Schwinn Impact MOS, circa 1990) snapped and he lost a few of the bolts holding the brakes in place. They're more annoying than V-brakes to assemble and adjust but not *that* difficult. There's a ton of good videos on Youtube (Park Tool definitely have one.) As for the lost bolts, I'm guessing they're the ones that attach the main cable to the straddle cable. You could just order some cheap straddle cables from ebay - the bolts will be included (check the pics on the listing but they always have been in my experience.) e: I looked at a few listings, and the bolt/bracket that connects the two cables is called the 'bridge', at least here in the UK. The straddle cable can also apparently be called the bridge cable/wire. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192177420932?hash=item2cbeaaba84:g:HJQAAOSwONBZCw72 Al2001 fucked around with this message at 19:43 on May 16, 2021 |
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May 16, 2021 19:35
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I'm new to bike shops and I'm hoping you guys can tell me if this seems like a normal process. I took my bike in with stripped pedal threads on one of the crank arms, and they said it would be about a week to try a thread tap and new insert. I call them a week later and they say they don't have the tools for it but they should get them in soon. I ask about just getting new cranks but they recommend waiting since it should be cheaper. Ok. I'm busy for a while and hear nothing back, so I call them another two weeks later. They still don't have the tools and they're "not hopeful about getting them any time soon". This seems odd since they're all over Amazon and ebay, and I'm wondering why they want to store my bike indefinitely without contacting me. I again ask if I should just get new cranks instead. The guy says "oh, yeah, I guess you could" with wonderment in his voice like he hadn't thought of it. I ask if he can recommend anything or point me in the right direction and he tells me to find something online and that someone will text me specs and rushes to get off the phone. No one texts. I feel completely jerked around and like I've wasted 3 weeks. Am I justified in picking my bike up, not paying, and going somewhere else?
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May 17, 2021 01:59
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Just so you know right now it completely loving sucks to work in a bike shop. We can't get parts bikes or tools we're constantly dealing with people who can't accept the fact that we can't get parts bikes or tools and also don't understand that you have to wear a god damned loving mask. Quite frankly they probably ordered the helicoil insert set then got notified a week later that now instead of it being in by mid May it's now going to be November and they're too busy dealing with the endless stream of Boomer McChinmaskers and their constant demand for step thru fast cheap road bikes with an upright aerodynamic posture and are just plain too burned out to clue in to the obvious which is to just offer a new crank as an alternative. Give em the benefit of the doubt for now. Ask em to put on a new crank and ask if they can expedite the request because you've been waiting a while for the bike, if they say no to that then ya take it somewhere else.
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May 17, 2021 02:37
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EvilJoven posted:Just so you know right now it completely loving sucks to work in a bike shop. We can't get parts bikes or tools we're constantly dealing with people who can't accept the fact that we can't get parts bikes or tools and also don't understand that you have to wear a god damned loving mask. Some of us completely understand and appreciate all of you in our local shops. We see you telling the rear end in a top hat “who had an appointment” not to cut in front of the woman who was standing in line outside as she also had an appointment (and managed not to show up five minutes late). We understand you can’t keep any thing in stock and your deliveries are about as reliable as the weatherman. We still love you.
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May 17, 2021 04:31
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I feel like this shop in a midwest town of 7000 that also does mowers isn't too stressed about masks but thanks for going all aggro and blaming your imagination for their poor customer service.
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May 17, 2021 05:30
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Psychepath posted:I feel like this shop in a midwest town of 7000 that also does mowers isn't too stressed about masks but thanks for going all aggro and blaming your imagination for their poor customer service. Also... EvilJoven posted:Give em the benefit of the doubt for now. Ask em to put on a new crank and ask if they can expedite the request because you've been waiting a while for the bike, if they say no to that then ya take it somewhere else.
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May 17, 2021 13:29
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If you're considering buying a new crank anyway, might as well buy the thread tapper on amazon and try it yourself. If you gently caress it up you can just get the new crank.
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May 17, 2021 13:34
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The tapper just cuts a wider threading into the crank, right? What's the next step, to get a solid 'bolt' that threads into the wider threading, and then drill and top 9/16" into the filled-in hole?
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May 17, 2021 13:41
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The helicoil kit basically widens out and rethreads the crank and then you thread in a spacer that's threaded both inside and out so you can run normal 9/16th cranks in the new, wider hole. If done right it should be fine if done improperly your axle isn't at a proper 90deg angle, or it falls out again. Unless it's a really high end crank TBH it isn't worth the parts and labour cost, especially if the place hasn't done it before. There's a good chance they don't get it quite right.
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May 17, 2021 13:53
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Is the insert bonded into place?
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May 17, 2021 14:02
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No, it's kind of threaded on both sides. They hold really strongly. http://www.repairengineering.com/helicoil.html
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May 17, 2021 14:28
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kimbo305 posted:Is the insert bonded into place? https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-bushing-repair-kit-procedure The inserts are about  each not counting the cost of the dies.
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May 17, 2021 15:15
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Neat. Looks like both the bushing and the helicoil have loctite as the first option for securing. I wonder how the tolerances work out such that the pedal to bushing fit is tight enough to sink the bushing into the tapped crank but also loose enough to be backed out. Is the bushing butting against the head of the pedal axle on the way in?
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May 17, 2021 15:41
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kimbo305 posted:Neat. Looks like both the bushing and the helicoil have loctite as the first option for securing. edit: I misread your post. Sorry! Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 15:48
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Psychepath posted:I feel completely jerked around and like I've wasted 3 weeks. Am I justified in picking my bike up, not paying, and going somewhere else? Yeah go for it, but I'd probably call ahead and make sure the next place has the right stuff. It's weird a shop wouldn't have a pedal thread tap and helicoils. We do that on a pretty regular basis, there's no issue with it and it's cheaper than new cranks for sure (I want to say like $30?) Plus given that you are putting steel in a larger diameter threaded hole it's stronger than the original aluminum. Really common thing to do to aluminum car brake calipers as well. jamal fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 15:49
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Apparently expecting bike shops to have any semblance of customer service or communication skills is too much. I’ve never once not had to constantly check in on my bike. Oh, you told me you could service my bike but it turns out you don’t have the tools? Call me and let me know it’s gonna take a bit longer. Oh, the tools are on back order due to the global shortage which is totally understandable? Call me and let me know, a bit of communication resolves a lot of the confusion and frustration. Too many shops are run by bike dudes with no customer service skills and it shows.
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May 17, 2021 16:53
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Tigren posted:Apparently expecting bike shops to have any semblance of customer service or communication skills is too much. I’ve never once not had to constantly check in on my bike. Oh, you told me you could service my bike but it turns out you don’t have the tools? Call me and let me know it’s gonna take a bit longer. Oh, the tools are on back order due to the global shortage which is totally understandable? Call me and let me know, a bit of communication resolves a lot of the confusion and frustration. I always hated dealing with customers after someone else had, because they would concoct some insane elaborate lie just to cover up the fact that we were special ordering a specific tool, as if not having the tool would reflect poorly on them or something. I saw so many times that people would just dig themselves deeper and deeper into a hole because they wouldn't just be up front. We had a lady with a 22" BMX bike, and instead of just telling her we don't have 22" tubes and could get them in a week, the owner decided it would be OK to shove a 24" tube in there. Surprise surprise, she was back two days later with a flat. Now instead of just admitting the mistake, they told her they needed to keep the bike for a few days to inspect the rim for damage (while they wait for the 22" tube to show up). Got it installed, and everything was great. A month later she gets a flat on the tire, and someone unknown to the situation explains we have to order the tube, and now she is all mad because no one had to order a tube last time... I see way too many managers who will bend over backwards to keep up their appearance, I can only imagine that has gotten way worse with covid supply issues. There is nothing wrong with telling a customer no or being honest about what the situation requires and what you as a shop are capable of. Sales guys can also be pretty bad about this, when the sale of a bike is contingent on some service work and they make promises the service department can't deliver on. Customer service 101, under promise, over deliver. Not over promise, masquerade it with lies, and build yourself a house of cards that the customers expectations rely on.
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May 17, 2021 17:59
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Tigren posted:Too many shops are run by bike dudes with no customer service skills and it shows.
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May 17, 2021 18:03
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I figured out a squeaking sound and prevented myself from spending $50 on a new idler wheel. First the bike:  Bacchetta Recumbent. Note the little wheel (idler) the chains are routed thru (under the seat). So I'm on a group ride and I hear a squeak when I pedal with any force. My immediate thought was that since this was tied to the pedaling, it had to be something in the drive train. Pedaling 'softly' or backwards ... no sound. So it HAD to be the idler. Then I got the idea of applying the rear disc brake lightly while pedaling. No sound. Checked out the rear disc and the left pad was really close to the disc. Quick adjustment and all good. So pedaling flexed the chain stays enough to have that pad touch the disc ever so slightly. Engaging the brakes stopped the squeak and was the clue. 10 second adjustment beats ordering a new idler.
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May 17, 2021 21:19
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My bike stand will apparently work itself loose and fall over if you leave a bike on it over a couple days. So, my old, '70s steel bike fell over with the bike stand and after that the pedal on one side would hit the chain stay as it rotated. I was able to bend the whole rear of the bike back into place a bit, so there's plenty of clearance for the pedal now and no visible cracks or damage to the frame, but any recommendations on how to get this straighter? The steel is super flexible and I paid next to nothing for this bike, so worst case scenario I strip off all the parts I want to save and look for another similar one.
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May 18, 2021 14:52
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html Here's the Sheldon Brown article on checking the frame alignment and bending it. The string method is how you check the frame is roughly straight.
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May 18, 2021 18:44
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I had a doozy of a mechanical on a bikepacking race this weekend. 240 miles in at 1 am I hit a big rock on a long gravel descent, bounced around pretty good, and ended up catching a branch in my wheel. It bent the valve stem about 60 degrees and caused an air leak. We tried to bend it back and the plan was to hopefully add sealant/super glue to hold the leak but the stem snapped. Upon unseating the bead, the inner rubber of the valve stem had popped off in the tire and the root of the stem was pulled down into the hole and was seemingly too big to fit back through or be pushed through the other side (tried using an allen wrench to push it through both ways). Had a 5 hour walk down the mountain that night and it didn't help that it was 40 degrees and I was sweating from the previous 9 mile climb when it happened, so I had to just keep walking to keep from getting hypothermic. Towards the end of trying to fix it I was shaking so bad I couldn't even get the thru axle back in . Currently waiting to hear back from the shop about their plan to extract it.
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May 18, 2021 21:41
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Drill a hole in it
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May 18, 2021 21:56
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Bottom Liner posted:I had a doozy of a mechanical on a bikepacking race this weekend. 240 miles in at 1 am I hit a big rock on a long gravel descent, bounced around pretty good, and ended up catching a branch in my wheel. It bent the valve stem about 60 degrees and caused an air leak. We tried to bend it back and the plan was to hopefully add sealant/super glue to hold the leak but the stem snapped. Upon unseating the bead, the inner rubber of the valve stem had popped off in the tire and the root of the stem was pulled down into the hole and was seemingly too big to fit back through or be pushed through the other side (tried using an allen wrench to push it through both ways). Had a 5 hour walk down the mountain that night and it didn't help that it was 40 degrees and I was sweating from the previous 9 mile climb when it happened, so I had to just keep walking to keep from getting hypothermic. Towards the end of trying to fix it I was shaking so bad I couldn't even get the thru axle back in . Currently waiting to hear back from the shop about their plan to extract it.
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May 18, 2021 22:07
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Steve French posted:Drill a hole in it That was my first thought and what the shop ended up doing. I didn’t want to be the one to ruin the rim though if my hand slipped lol
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May 19, 2021 00:42
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Bottom Liner posted:That was my first thought and what the shop ended up doing. I didn’t want to be the one to ruin the rim though if my hand slipped lol
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May 19, 2021 00:55
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