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interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity

KingColliwog posted:

Help a bro out. This kind of move is probably what I suck at the most. Campusing/cutting lose/holding a swing are all things I'm terrible at. Can you guys see anything obvious I could do better?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AysAWkxiamA

I think I should lock off higher while cutting lose and possibly bringing my right leg closer to the end position before letting go of the left hook.

I think your beta is actually fine, but the biggest improvement you can make is tension in your whole body to hold the swing when you cut loose. It's pretty clear here that you're very focused on your arms, so your core and legs are doing absolutely nothing for you. I find it easiest to actively focus on my core first, and the rest will follow (ymmv). You're really close on the move and you look plenty strong enough to do it!

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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
M1 at this weekend's IFSC semi finals is sort of insane lmao

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Yea, what was it, 4 people out of 20 made the zone and that's it? Looking forward to the finals starting in 30 minutes.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Took an "intro to ropes" class by myself yesterday and was stoked to meet someone who:

1) was also taking this class by themselves
2) was super friendly
3) Boulders at the same level as me
4) had the same climbing goals as I do (doing outdoor sport by the end of summer)
5) Wants to climb a bunch to attain those goals

I have some social anxiety so it was super nice to meet a climbing partner with the same goals as me without too much effort.

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...

Sigmund Fraud posted:

You could
a) sand it lightly. It works but is not as good as those that get worn by normal use as that wears away the soft grain while leaving the hard year rings.
b) hang one arm on a deep pocket or the good sloper
c) use a sling or pulley. You can drill a small hole in the bottom of the bm and screw in an attachment point
d) use alcohol based chalk. It'll dry out the wood
e) no hang it with feet on something
f) try harder
g) front lever it a bit. It'll move your cog forward, making it easier. Bonus core work!
Thanks, and sorry to dredge this up after so long. I think I'll try sanding it a little. I guess it's a strength issue in some sense. But on the other hand I can hang on the 45 degree slopers on the 2000s at my local gym, so it feels like I ought to be able to manage 10 seconds on the 35s even on a fresh-ish board. But it's so slippery that I just slide right off. Beastmaker themselves say they should wear in after a while but I've had the board for a few months now and if it's happening, it's only very slowly.

Zephro fucked around with this message at 22:36 on May 26, 2021

Aramoro
Jun 1, 2012




I tried the autobelays at the gym for the first time the other day because my wife had hurt her foot do couldn't come. I do not like that sensation at all of just having to let go and fall once you reach the top. I guess I'll get used to it but it was a proper slight panic the first time.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Aramoro posted:

I tried the autobelays at the gym for the first time the other day because my wife had hurt her foot do couldn't come. I do not like that sensation at all of just having to let go and fall once you reach the top. I guess I'll get used to it but it was a proper slight panic the first time.

Yeah that's normal, it gets better with time.

What I did in the beggining was take a "test fall" like 2 meters off the ground everytime I went on a new autobelay so my brain could feel safe.

interrodactyl posted:

I think your beta is actually fine, but the biggest improvement you can make is tension in your whole body to hold the swing when you cut loose. It's pretty clear here that you're very focused on your arms, so your core and legs are doing absolutely nothing for you. I find it easiest to actively focus on my core first, and the rest will follow (ymmv). You're really close on the move and you look plenty strong enough to do it!

Yeah my tension was really lacking, I can see it in the video even if I thought I was doing alright when doing the actual move. Filming yourself is such a great tool.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

KingColliwog posted:

What I did in the beggining was take a "test fall" like 2 meters off the ground everytime I went on a new autobelay so my brain could feel safe.

I do this every time I clip into one. It's so little extra hassle.

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...
I got used to it with test falls too. As you get more confidence you can throw yourself off deliberately and it will still catch you. I found knowing that really helps when you're pondering some tricky move 10 metres off the ground

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011
Yeah autobelays feel good now. Also being used to it made me feel a bit less rattled my first lead fall.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Thanks to those that suggested stuff. My first outdoor V5 just went and I think all the suggestions I got here and elsewhere really helped. Ended up going for a different beta that plays to my strength, but I got real close the campus way. I'll have to go back and send it the powerful way too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-SDDgbhDvU

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 23:29 on May 27, 2021

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity

KingColliwog posted:

Thanks to those that suggested stuff. My first outdoor V5 just went and I think all the suggestions I got here and elsewhere really helped. Ended up going for a different beta that plays to my strength, but I got real close the campus way. I'll have to go back and send it the powerful way too

https://youtu.be/OEwP_8X3HfU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEwP_8X3HfU

Congrats! Now just tack on the extension :)

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

interrodactyl posted:

Congrats! Now just tack on the extension :)

I sure will try to. Looks pretty drat hard! This was my first v5, so V7 will probably take a while.

Updated the video for one that shows the fight and trying all the betas

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

restarted my gym membership for June 1. Here comes the sucking.

Hauki
May 11, 2010


spwrozek posted:

restarted my gym membership for June 1. Here comes the sucking.

I just did too

it's been bad

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

It comes back pretty quick; I've been back 3 weeks and, although I'm not back to climbing as hard as I used to, I'm happy with my progress.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Yea my technique came back faster than I expected. Strength took a little bit to get back to normal. It was my endurance that really took a hit.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Slimy Hog posted:

It comes back pretty quick; I've been back 3 weeks and, although I'm not back to climbing as hard as I used to, I'm happy with my progress.

I am not too worried. mostly a stamina thing. When I broke my collar bone I was off for 5 months and back leading 11's in a month or so. 5 months might as well be a year.


Hauki posted:

I just did too

it's been bad

Shoot me a text if you want to meet up.

Anachronist
Feb 13, 2009


I restarted my ET membership a couple weeks ago too. So far have only gone at 6am. Kind of assuming its still jam packed (relatively) in the evenings? I guess I could check the occupancy meter.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

Anachronist posted:

I restarted my ET membership a couple weeks ago too. So far have only gone at 6am. Kind of assuming it’s still jam packed (relatively) in the evenings? I guess I could check the occupancy meter.

FWIW I've gone multiple times during peak hours to the Spot in both Boulder and Louisville and it's hasn't been too packed.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Do you guys have any advice for how Not to "stutter step" up a slab wall? Is it sometimes just unavoidable?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ynw7ZDPFD6k

Like at the 20 second mark there, I bonk my foot off the wall 4 times before actually getting onto the foot hold. I can't imagine just having the strength to pull on those crimps to just smoothly go from chip to chip without using the wall, but I suppose a better climber probably could?

After probably 3 dozen attempts I did finally manage to send that problem, but that particular move still feels so sloppy and I'd like to get better at it :shrug:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
That's just a way to stabilize yourself, think of it as a smear. Try not to drag the point of your foot accross.the wall or you'll destroy your shoes, but I think it's a valid move and not a technical mistake.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I'd agree that it's totally valid, but 4x for 1 move feels more like a crutch than technique, in my book :v:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

I'd agree that it's totally valid, but 4x for 1 move feels more like a crutch than technique, in my book :v:

Really depends on the move I think. Try to do it without poking the wall so much and see how it goes. Some moves just kind of need you to do that escalator thing or even a slow drag along the wall. If you do it when it's not necessary it can be a crutch I guess and it might ruin your shoes so avoid it when unnecessary. But other than that don't sweat it is my opinion.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

You can see pros tap their foot up slab all the time, so it can't be that big a deal. I have a friend who's totally obsessed with how re-gripping holds is a waste of energy. But then I watch people win world cups re-gripping holds and perhaps it isn't the thing holding anyone back :v:.
Unless you're worried the French judge is going to knock points off for lack of style or you're wearing out your shoes prematurely, I wouldn't worry about it.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Fair enough I guess. I've just been trying really hard to improve lately and noticed that when I asked my buddy to film me so I could figure out what I was doing wrong before topping out :)

brakeless
Apr 11, 2011

Sab669 posted:

Like at the 20 second mark there, I bonk my foot off the wall 4 times before actually getting onto the foot hold. I can't imagine just having the strength to pull on those crimps to just smoothly go from chip to chip without using the wall, but I suppose a better climber probably could?

Even if you had the strength to pull yourself to the left and completely unweight your right foot, it could very well use more energy than your beta here and be worse from a technique standpoint imo. In general, the lighter you pull the better your technique is for that move.

beat9
Aug 19, 2005

Outdoor season's finally in full effect here and I've been working on last years project, a 5.11c-ish (Norwegian grade 7). It's quite short, quite hard for the grade apparently but really fun and a great line. Last summer I managed the whole thing with one rest and today I had this attempt:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOByS0bdAiU

It doesn't feel that far away and I'm so stoked to see the progress. I've pre-placed my gear but I think it should be doable by the end of the summer. Anyway, it felt super good today and I can't wait to get back on!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I definitely tap my toe on some balance moves. I also occasionally drag the TOP of my shoe (toebox) along the wall on a move. It's fine, I wouldn't worry about it.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

beat9 posted:

Outdoor season's finally in full effect here and I've been working on last years project, a 5.11c-ish (Norwegian grade 7). It's quite short, quite hard for the grade apparently but really fun and a great line. Last summer I managed the whole thing with one rest and today I had this attempt:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOByS0bdAiU

It doesn't feel that far away and I'm so stoked to see the progress. I've pre-placed my gear but I think it should be doable by the end of the summer. Anyway, it felt super good today and I can't wait to get back on!

Amazing man! Short route walls are so cool. We have one in my area and I love it because it feels like bouldering since the move are very hard for their grades, but you need quite a bit of endurance too. Is the top out part of the route? You're so close man, no way you're not getting that!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

beat9 posted:

Outdoor season's finally in full effect here and I've been working on last years project, a 5.11c-ish (Norwegian grade 7). It's quite short, quite hard for the grade apparently but really fun and a great line. Last summer I managed the whole thing with one rest and today I had this attempt:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOByS0bdAiU

It doesn't feel that far away and I'm so stoked to see the progress. I've pre-placed my gear but I think it should be doable by the end of the summer. Anyway, it felt super good today and I can't wait to get back on!

That looked heart breaking... great job!

Do you think you will give it a go without the preplaced gear?

Double length runner on the 3rd piece didn't really look necessary.

beat9
Aug 19, 2005

spwrozek posted:

That looked heart breaking... great job!

Do you think you will give it a go without the preplaced gear?

Double length runner on the 3rd piece didn't really look necessary.

Yeah, the gear was placed by my girlfriend who has slightly worse lead psyche than me :)
I would've just put a quick draw there and probably skipped the red cam in the horizontal pluss maybe every other on the upper part.
I'll definitely try it without the pre-placed gear yeah, that's my main goal.
Top out is part of the route as well.

And as for short routes, I love them. I like multi-pitch as well but for hard projects it's much more convenient with shorter ones.
I don't want to have to climb three 5.10's before I get to my project pitch...

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

Yesterday I went for the onsight on a fun looking shallow seam graded at 7- (5.11). Got in a micro offset at 5 meters that felt okay. Climbed on a couple of meters. Okay ringlocks but no obvious gear placements so I backed down and had the belayer take when the piece was just above waist level. The nut rotated out and popped.

Decked on my back on the rocks below but managed to deflect much of the fall with my arms. Right foot looked crazy hosed tho, pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction. At first I thought it was broken but it was pretty easy to wrench it straight again with my hands. Needless to say I was very happy to be able to walk away with just a sprained ankle and some bruising!

Just before hopping on I cleared the 5th gear loop from ATC, 'biners and anchor crap incase I'd take a tumble. Had I not I would've landed on metal instead of my soft chalk bag!

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Sounds fun :staredog:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Yesterday I went for the onsight on a fun looking shallow seam graded at 7- (5.11). Got in a micro offset at 5 meters that felt okay. Climbed on a couple of meters. Okay ringlocks but no obvious gear placements so I backed down and had the belayer take when the piece was just above waist level. The nut rotated out and popped.

Decked on my back on the rocks below but managed to deflect much of the fall with my arms. Right foot looked crazy hosed tho, pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction. At first I thought it was broken but it was pretty easy to wrench it straight again with my hands. Needless to say I was very happy to be able to walk away with just a sprained ankle and some bruising!

Just before hopping on I cleared the 5th gear loop from ATC, 'biners and anchor crap incase I'd take a tumble. Had I not I would've landed on metal instead of my soft chalk bag!

what the gently caress. I hope you heal fast man.

--

In other news lockdown ended this week so finally back to gym climbing after only training and climbing outdoors for a while. Pretty crazy how different it feels, much more powerful and everything. 1st session was horrible. 2nd session was alright and just did my 3rd session and it was one of my strongest performance even with boulders that were not my style.

In the end, this whole corona thing will probably have helped my climbing because of all the training and outdoor climbing I did that I would have never gotten into otherwise.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jun 4, 2021

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Yesterday I went for the onsight on a fun looking shallow seam graded at 7- (5.11). Got in a micro offset at 5 meters that felt okay. Climbed on a couple of meters. Okay ringlocks but no obvious gear placements so I backed down and had the belayer take when the piece was just above waist level. The nut rotated out and popped.

Decked on my back on the rocks below but managed to deflect much of the fall with my arms. Right foot looked crazy hosed tho, pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction. At first I thought it was broken but it was pretty easy to wrench it straight again with my hands. Needless to say I was very happy to be able to walk away with just a sprained ankle and some bruising!

Just before hopping on I cleared the 5th gear loop from ATC, 'biners and anchor crap incase I'd take a tumble. Had I not I would've landed on metal instead of my soft chalk bag!

Thats rough but as you said way better than it could have been. Hoping you make a quick recovery!

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

KingColliwog posted:

In other news lockdown ended this week so finally back to gym climbing after only training and climbing outdoors for a while. Pretty crazy how different it feels, much more powerful and everything. 1st session was horrible. 2nd session was alright and just did my 3rd session and it was one of my strongest performance even with boulders that were not my style.

In the end, this whole corona thing will probably have helped my climbing because of all the training and outdoor climbing I did that I would have never gotten into otherwise.
People keep saying that switching it up is a great way to get out of a plateau. Seems like it worked out for you. Don't let your old preconceptions of what you're capable of hold you back. Hop on hard stuff and pull hard!

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I wish I could stomach training, but alas, if exercise isn't fun I probably won't do it :( Climbing outdoors is great though. I've really been enjoying going to this new crag down in Pennsylvania, now that I can't go to Niagara Glen.


Also I'm visiting a buddy down near the Gunks next weekend, won't be able to do any climbing outdoors on my short trip but I will be checking out some local small gym there. Their website boasts:

quote:

BC's Climbing Gym is a boutique bouldering space with an emphasis on climbing movement. It's what we obsess over as we set and re-set the gym walls. Our philosophy here is that carefully curated routes teach movement and body positions that translate to outdoor climbing.

When many people picture bouldering, they imagine a power-fest of dynoing from crimp to crimp. We seek to challenge that notion by offering thoughtful, technical, and "flowy" boulders to fit all body sizes, while still offering difficult boulders for the power-and-strength climber.

If you enjoy the challenge of moving over stone, we think you will enjoy the movement offered here. If you've tried bouldering in other gyms and haven't connected with it, we highly recommend giving us a look.

So that sounds pretty cool.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

Sab669 posted:

boutique bouldering
philosophy
carefully curated routes
Haha that certainly sounds like a modern gym.

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Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

My local chain gym has been setting far too many dynos and weird parkour-y problems. I'm new to the sport, but it's definitely not what I want -- at least not after loving up both of my shoulders on dynos in the 2 years I've been climbing :v:

The photos on this place's website / facebook look pretty solid to me, and I'd think being right near to the gunks they probably have some decent setters :shrug:

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