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banned from Starbucks posted:Does anyone know which glue works best for sticking Plasticard/Plastruct to metal? Best? Probably 2-part epoxy. CA would work pretty good too and be much simpler, although if it's a mini that will be handled a lot then parts can ping off.
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Apr 19, 2021 07:40
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Any glue would probably work but if you're attaching two flat surfaces together, don't forget to rough them up with some sandpaper or a file to give them some more grip.
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Apr 19, 2021 08:04
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In line with the above chat, I have just done my first experiment with 2-part epoxy to stick plastic canvas on to MDF. Seems to bond fine, but it's hardly ideal as I'll have to buy quite a bit before getting this project done (it's a fair few flat sheets of mdf I need to cover with plastic canvas) and the epoxy is just a pain to mix and spread over large surfaces. I have some questions about spraying MDF terrain. I know that MDF absorbs water-based acrylic paint, so the advice is to use lacquer paint? Just trying to find something that I know will fit the bill. First option is this: https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/primer-sealer Does anyone know if this sort of auto primer is the right thing? If not, there's this normal rustoleum paint, but I don't know if it's water-based or not? https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/rust-oleum-grey-matt-finish-surface-primer-spray-paint-400ml/p/0413357 The other option, which I'd rather not do, but could be fine, is spray it with a sealant first (there's something called Shellac which sounds good) and then spray with normal acrylic minis paint. Grateful for any advice.
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May 15, 2021 19:29
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Genghis Cohen posted:In line with the above chat, I have just done my first experiment with 2-part epoxy to stick plastic canvas on to MDF. Seems to bond fine, but it's hardly ideal as I'll have to buy quite a bit before getting this project done (it's a fair few flat sheets of mdf I need to cover with plastic canvas) and the epoxy is just a pain to mix and spread over large surfaces. If you have to glue large flat surfaces, a spray glue would work great. 3m Super77 is the most popular choice, and I've used a Permatex alternative with great results as well. Just make sure you mask areas you don't want glued, and use a drop sheet under the work and lots of room to spray. You can control the spray pattern pretty easily with these, but being an aerosol there's still some amount of randomness of how the glue sprays out.
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May 15, 2021 20:32
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Genghis Cohen posted:In line with the above chat, I have just done my first experiment with 2-part epoxy to stick plastic canvas on to MDF. Seems to bond fine, but it's hardly ideal as I'll have to buy quite a bit before getting this project done (it's a fair few flat sheets of mdf I need to cover with plastic canvas) and the epoxy is just a pain to mix and spread over large surfaces. I'm not an expert, but I've painted a bit of MDF terrain, and I just primed using the same spray primers I use on miniatures, I didnt buy anything special. IIRC I probably used an army painter spray for some bits, and a cheap black car primer for others. Then I painted them up using a combination of cheap craft paints from The Works, and tester pots of housepaint from Wilco. I think (but again, not an expert) the concern with mdf being "thirsty" is more if you tried to go in with a brush and painted straight on the mdf, whereas a spray covers the whole surface and while it doesnt seal it as such, it does enough that you can paint on top without worrying about it. Edit to add: Both GeekGamingScenics and TheTerrainTutor on youtube have a bunch of videos on building/painting/adding texture to MDF kits if you havent seen those already.
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May 16, 2021 09:03
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Part of the issue with MDF being thirsty is that it likes to warp if you only spray one side of it. Spray/paint both sides, even if one side is going to be unseen, to help prevent that warping from occurring.
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May 16, 2021 10:35
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BlackIronHeart posted:Part of the issue with MDF being thirsty is that it likes to warp if you only spray one side of it. Spray/paint both sides, even if one side is going to be unseen, to help prevent that warping from occurring. Are you sure you were using MDF? MDF doesn't warp, as it has no grain structure. When it does get overly wet, you can get swelled sections on the surface, and if soaked for long periods it will disintegrate, but it doesn't warp.
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May 16, 2021 10:39
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I usually seal with hairspray, which is not perfect, but it does help from your base layers getting absorbed too much. I've been using a brush on mdf sealer on my latest stuff, and that works a treat for getting even layers.
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May 16, 2021 10:46
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Results may vary, but I don't even prime mine. I own a laser cutter so I've painted quite a few. These below used no primer and we're all painted with inks. I like inks because they absorb into the wood (doesn't go all the way through) and almost work like a stain. I think the whites were maybe two coats of ink?  One thing to note is that I don't have burn marks on mine, but I know a lot of purchased kits have tons. I'd sand them off lightly otherwise they would show through the ink.
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May 16, 2021 13:41
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^is that the place at the corner of Kensington & Lehigh?
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May 16, 2021 16:23
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Silhouette posted:^is that the place at the corner of Kensington & Lehigh? Right city, wrong zip code. It's no longer there but it was 13th and Tasker. I've been slowly creating my Battle for South Philly terrain. It slowed down when my laser cutter broke and ongoing tech support issues have put a halt on it. I'll try to post the other buildings I made, mostly row homes, a garage, and a diner.
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May 16, 2021 16:41
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ape!!! posted:... and a diner. Broad St, Oregon, or Melrose?
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May 16, 2021 16:55
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Melrose Diner. Or since I made these for a zombie themed board, Melroze from the Dead.       Im pretty sure these are all inks either painted or airbrushed on MDF, no primer. Some weathering powder and paper posters for detail.
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May 16, 2021 17:28
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I loving love it  Also philly warhams goonmeet has to happen when poo poo's not as hosed Edit: your melrose isn't nearly filthy enough to be the real thing though 
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May 16, 2021 19:18
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Silhouette posted:I loving love it Philly Warham checking in
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May 16, 2021 19:42
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Holy poo poo I gotta try inks
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May 16, 2021 21:15
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Your South Philly board rules hard. sorta fake edit: Any plans for a King of Jeans?
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May 16, 2021 22:41
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Are you sure you were using MDF? MDF doesn't warp, as it has no grain structure. When it does get overly wet, you can get swelled sections on the surface, and if soaked for long periods it will disintegrate, but it doesn't warp.
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May 16, 2021 22:46
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Ilor posted:It's not a grain thing, it comes from one side swelling and the other side not swelling. Yeah MDF can warp, but usually far less so than most other basing materials.
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May 17, 2021 12:03
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Holy poo poo that Melrose Diner is uncanny.
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May 17, 2021 14:24
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you have to glue large flat surfaces, a spray glue would work great. 3m Super77 is the most popular choice, and I've used a Permatex alternative with great results as well. SiKboy posted:I'm not an expert, but I've painted a bit of MDF terrain, and I just primed using the same spray primers I use on miniatures, I didnt buy anything special. IIRC I probably used an army painter spray for some bits, and a cheap black car primer for others. Then I painted them up using a combination of cheap craft paints from The Works, and tester pots of housepaint from Wilco. I think (but again, not an expert) the concern with mdf being "thirsty" is more if you tried to go in with a brush and painted straight on the mdf, whereas a spray covers the whole surface and while it doesnt seal it as such, it does enough that you can paint on top without worrying about it. Wowshawk posted:I usually seal with hairspray, which is not perfect, but it does help from your base layers getting absorbed too much. I've been using a brush on mdf sealer on my latest stuff, and that works a treat for getting even layers. Wowshawk posted:I usually seal with hairspray, which is not perfect, but it does help from your base layers getting absorbed too much. I've been using a brush on mdf sealer on my latest stuff, and that works a treat for getting even layers. Thank you all the above, and anyone else who discussed MDF issues, for the help. I have got some super77 spray adhesive for the rest of my gluing, and will go with a standard auto primer for the basecoats, and just see if it causes any issues on one building before I go on to the next.
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May 17, 2021 18:47
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Lumbermouth posted:Holy poo poo that Melrose Diner is uncanny. Well, everybody who knows goes to Melrose i am so sorry for getting it stuck in your head forever
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May 18, 2021 01:50
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Crossposting from the Frostgrave thread, as I finally started making terrain again. This weekend I managed to finish a step pyramid well in time before my clubmates set out to battle on Sunday. It was a blast, and I just slapped on all kinds of static grass, flock, tufts and foliage I could muster. The end result is a spooky step pyramid/temple that I hope will be useful even for other scenarios, as it offers more variation in cover etc. than just a play pyramid.  The drat thing won't fit in my photo box!   The golden statue smites and heals with her two swords  A step by step (*drumroll*) on how I did the temple/pyramid is on the blog, with more pics: https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/fantasy--sci-fi/step-pyramid-temple-frostgrave-continued Some earlier pics, it's all XPS and air-drying clay.   
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May 18, 2021 21:28
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ape!!! posted:Results may vary, but I don't even prime mine. I own a laser cutter so I've painted quite a few. These below used no primer and we're all painted with inks. I like inks because they absorb into the wood (doesn't go all the way through) and almost work like a stain. I think the whites were maybe two coats of ink? Are those regular art store inks btw? Nice work liljonas!
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May 18, 2021 21:50
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I'm working on making dry river beds for a board and having trouble finding a method I like. At first I started 3D printing the banks and then gluing them to some paperstock, but it's taking way too long. Any suggestions? --- lilljonas posted:Crossposting from the Frostgrave thread, as I finally started making terrain again. Very cool! Class Warcraft fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 22:06
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I painted up some terrain stuff I've had lying around for years      The russ got thrown in for free with some ebay stuff, it was this beat up and seemed to much effort to salvage into a usable mini.       
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May 23, 2021 17:41
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I've been struggling to find some interesting fantasy themed terrain STL files to laser cut for playing Age of Sigmar. My two armies are ghosts and goblins, but any generic fantasy stuff can be fine. Thingiverse I've found a couple buildings that can work, especially looking for Bolt Action terrain, but I'm not finding as much as I find for 40k. I'm willing to pay for STL files, but I haven't found a good way to search for those, either. Graveyard themed stuff like mausoleums would be ideal. Anyone have any suggestions?
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May 31, 2021 18:30
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ro5s posted:I painted up some terrain stuff I've had lying around for years All this stuff looks great, but WOW the marble on the eagle ruin is exceptional! I still have a ton (like 10+) of those 3rd edition corner ruins to paint, totally gonna steal the black/white alternating floor tiles
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Jun 1, 2021 03:28
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What does everyone think about door sizes in terrain? Everything I've made, I've tried to include working doors, which means they're all too wide and probably too tall...definitely not in scale. I'm not building scale models, so maybe it doesn't matter?
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Jun 8, 2021 03:01
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So I've just started building terrain for DnD with the hope that one day I'll actually have enough time to DM a cool game with neat terrain. After watching a couple of tutorials, I got stuck into it, and have now made about 12 different pieces of dungeon tiles in various sizes made from XPS foam. I cut, carved / scuffed, then painted with a thick acrylic black wash, then spray painted with a coat of black then a coat of grey spray paint (both from over a foot away to ensure no melting). After all dry, I did a couple of layers of dry brush before another coat of thin blackwash with a little colour mixed in. I'm pretty happy with the results, and so I now want to seal them with some kind of varnish / sealant to make them more durable. I've seen online that Minwax works well as a spray that is safe for XPS, but sadly it's not available in Australia. I was wondering if there are other sprays out there that anyone can recommend that I may be able to use to finish my tiles. I know mod podge is very well touted for terrain makers, but it's really expensive here ($15 for a 236ml bottle at Bunnings), and I was hoping to save a bit of time with a spray over having to paint everything with another coat of something.
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Jun 8, 2021 06:31
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ape!!! posted:What does everyone think about door sizes in terrain? Everything I've made, I've tried to include working doors, which means they're all too wide and probably too tall...definitely not in scale. I'm not building scale models, so maybe it doesn't matter? The problem with doors for miniatures is that in real life we don't travel on a circular platform twice the width of our body, so if you wanted to actually accommodate it you have to make the doors really huge. My recommendation, don't go down that path, it will only lead to madness. You'll never actually pass a model through a door anyway, you'd just pick it up and place it where it needs to go, so as long as the door is like ballpark the size of a model, no one will ever notice.
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Jun 8, 2021 07:31
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ape!!! posted:What does everyone think about door sizes in terrain? Everything I've made, I've tried to include working doors, which means they're all too wide and probably too tall...definitely not in scale. I'm not building scale models, so maybe it doesn't matter? If I'm making terrain for skirmish fantasy and such, where one man standing in the doorway and fending off attackers might be a cool thing and actual proportions being less important, I'll go ahead and make comically oversized doors. Because when I make fantasy terrain I think function over form. If I'm making historical terrain, I try to keep windows and doors somewhat proportional, even though you always end up having to distort houses if you don't want a 28mm scale house take up half the table. But then I'll more often shrink the lengths of the walls, not so much the windows and doors. It's the same with things like stairs etc, if it's for historical gaming I'll try to make them reasonable, but if it's for fantasy skirmish games I'll just focus on making it playable with at least 25mm bases. Nothing is as annoying as carefully crafted terrain pieces that are unusable for gameplay since there's nowhere to actually, you know, place minis. I've been guilty of making exactly that mistake before. PotatoManJack posted:So I've just started building terrain for DnD with the hope that one day I'll actually have enough time to DM a cool game with neat terrain. You don't need to worry so much about spraying XPS if you've painted a layer over the XPS. It's mostly direct contact with the spray can gas that's the enemy. But if you're worried I'd just go to a hobby craft shop and buy a tub of matte acrylic brush on varnish, it'll last for ages and be a very cheap way to varnish a ton of terrain. Where I live I can get a big tub of acrylic varnish for about 10 bucks that I would maybe not use for miniatures, but definitely trust for terrain. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 07:44
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Class Warcraft posted:The problem with doors for miniatures is that in real life we don't travel on a circular platform twice the width of our body, so if you wanted to actually accommodate it you have to make the doors really huge. Wait, you don't glide about on a big disk, foot perched majestically upon rock, arms spread wide with a long, slightly warped, pole extended at full reach before you? You sir, have not lived.
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Jun 8, 2021 11:02
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footrocks are a plague
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Jun 8, 2021 11:03
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lilljonas posted:You don't need to worry so much about spraying XPS if you've painted a layer over the XPS. It's mostly direct contact with the spray can gas that's the enemy. But if you're worried I'd just go to a hobby craft shop and buy a tub of matte acrylic brush on varnish, it'll last for ages and be a very cheap way to varnish a ton of terrain. Where I live I can get a big tub of acrylic varnish for about 10 bucks that I would maybe not use for miniatures, but definitely trust for terrain. Thanks for the advice. I've seen a couple of other sealant sprays so may give one of those a try on one of my worst pieces to see how it reacts. I figure there should be one that's safe and if the XPS has held up to two coats of spray paint, I imagine it should hold up to a spray varnish if I'm careful. If it doesn't work then, then I'll go with a hobby tub of brush on varnish.
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Jun 8, 2021 11:08
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Ugleb posted:Wait, you don't glide about on a big disk, foot perched majestically upon rock, arms spread wide with a long, slightly warped, pole extended at full reach before you? Darius III, as he was drawing up his battle lines at Gaugamela: "Wait, Bessus. You should take your elite guard and have each of them stand precariously on an idividual four feet tall rock. That way they will look impressive for the painting judges." Darius III, as he flees from battle: "The comp pack weighs VPs too heavily! Fuckin' power gamers and their cheese armies!"
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Jun 8, 2021 13:35
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lilljonas posted:Darius III, as he was drawing up his battle lines at Gaugamela: "Wait, Bessus. You should take your elite guard and have each of them stand precariously on an idividual four feet tall rock. That way they will look impressive for the painting judges." A horse, a horse, MFA for a horse!
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Jun 8, 2021 13:36
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Thanks for the input on door sizes, seems pretty unanimous. Here's what I'm working on with a Fallout Wasteland Warfare mini (32mm) for scale.
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Jun 8, 2021 14:04
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You do tend to want to make doors and scenery in general a bit bigger, but only to scale it to the extra height of the models on bases. That means a bit of extra width. Corridors and interior spaces, now, ugh.
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Jun 8, 2021 15:38
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I always tend to make doors 1"W x 1.5"H, which looks and plays fine
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Jun 8, 2021 17:44
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