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I know this is kind of not the correct forum but I guess you guys might have some experience with vintage amps and fixing them so I try here first. I have a Trio/Kenwood (Kenwood branded) A-7 amp https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/trio_kenwo_stereo_integrated_amplifier_a_7.html that is just (for my ears) excellent. It makes a pair of small pillaged JVC 3" bookshelf (wooden) speakers from some other micro Hi-Fi thing sound golden and boomy as F. But I just noticed that it has a severe lack of treble in the left speaker (took a while since my left ear is hosed as a 42 year old drummer lol buy even I notice it now). I guess a capacitor has given up the ghost? I examined the innards, have the repair manuals, but am really suck at electronics. Anyone want to point me in the direction of what to do? Or, angelically, point me to what capacitors to test or whatever else might be wrong from these schematics? https://elektrotanya.com/kenwood_a-7_stereo_integrated_amplifier.pdf/download.html ninja edit: I have plans to get a pair of Yamaha HS 7's to replace the trash bin source JVC's and would like it to sound good 
F4rt5 fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 20:43
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This is the thread you'll have the best success in - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252
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Jun 11, 2021 20:56
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And now the requisite ridicule: Haha you like audio products
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Jun 11, 2021 20:58
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:And now the requisite ridicule: Yeah I get it but I also listen to 1980's Phish cassettes and right now a Tammy Wynette record (on my FISHER MT-6225 STUDIO STANDARD) that 's so overplayed it has hella distortion in the treble. So I don't care much about audiophile nonsense, the music's what matters (as opposed to audiophiles). EL BROMANCE posted:This is the thread you'll have the best success in - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252 e: I find myself lucky having inherited that Fisher from my uncle and aunt that bought that whole rack it belongs to. Reading about it not many turntables have that kind of really direct drive with magnets and wonder why it didn't catch on. Totally silent, reliable, no slipping of rubber or such crap, and people want like $350 for it nowadays. F4rt5 fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 21:02
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Well if you post about audio products here you need to be mocked a bit and that was the gentlest way I could think of Best of luck on your project, hope it works out relatively painlessly!
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Jun 11, 2021 21:03
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:Well if you post about audio products here you need to be mocked a bit and that was the gentlest way I could think of All ready for the mocking, didn't mean to come off as whiny lol. Thanks for being gentle Now go on to your day job of mocking the people spending $100K on poo poo that sounds worse than my ghetto collected-from-old-trash setup  BTW just thought of how SMALL you could make speakers and sell them for $$$ with the argument that they're SO responsive because they don't have so much mass to move around Like four 10" is better than one 15" idea, just use fifty 3" speakers and have 1) the best bass response due to not moving much mass 2) equal bass depth because all those speakers move as much air I convince them brb starting a company F4rt5 fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 21:36
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F4rt5 posted:All ready for the mocking, didn't mean to come off as whiny lol. Thanks for being gentle hold up, this dude thinks they just invented array speakers brb lemme phone up tekton, F4rt5 is on their bread and butter
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Jun 11, 2021 22:09
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You’ll pry my Real Media files out of my cold dead hands… Yeah I know there’s still around, but I’m talking old school, 1998 video at 100x200 has the most soul
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Jun 11, 2021 22:09
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namlosh posted:You’ll pry my Real Media files out of my cold dead hands… Ok Comboomer posted:hold up, this dude thinks they just invented array speakers That's amateurish, they use larger speakers for bass lol. I'm thinking a 2x2m of 3" elements for ALL the bass and ALL the treble from the same size driver!
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Jun 11, 2021 22:52
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A cone that small won't be able to move slow enough for that to work.
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Jun 11, 2021 22:53
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Slow enough? Wouldn't it move with the voltage levels, no matter how fast or slow? Or am I just not understanding physics and electronics, like put a voltage on a drive and it stays put if the voltage is stable? So back/forwards movement is controlled by the voltage difference? And that the problem is large cones moving not fast enough because of mass etc I don't care, because I think it's perfect and for my ears it works! I don't care if nobody has invented an earpiece with ~20Hz response. I IMAGINE it sounds great SO IT DOES SHUT UP F4rt5 fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 23:02
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F4rt5 posted:Like four 10" is better than one 15" idea, just use fifty 3" speakers and have When I played bass and was stupid enough to take a full rig out with me, I'd utilise a 4x10 and 1x15 cabinet as 1. they produced different sounds, one wasn't necessarily better than the other - but they compliment eachother 2. it meant my rig was taller than my drummer, which is the most important thing
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Jun 11, 2021 23:10
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Bad choice of words. I mean it wouldn't build enough pressure if it moved that slowly. Remember that smaller speakers also have less extension
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Jun 11, 2021 23:12
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EL BROMANCE posted:When I played bass and was stupid enough to take a full rig out with me, I'd utilise a 4x10 and 1x15 cabinet as Hey fellow bass dude and completely OT, what would you say was the best allround setup 'cause I am just now in the dilemma of choosing between 4x10 and 1x15 and I can't decide. DM me if you please so we don't poo poo up the thread
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Jun 11, 2021 23:13
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F4rt5 posted:Hey fellow bass dude and completely OT, what would you say was the best allround setup I haven't played in a while but I say you gotta listen to the specific speakers and decide for yourself. It's more about taste than objective goodness.
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Jun 11, 2021 23:15
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F4rt5 posted:Hey fellow bass dude and completely OT, what would you say was the best allround setup If I was to choose one of the cabs, I would take the 4x10 out with me. The 1x15 was nice and light though and probably preferable to mic by the soundguy (athough I would always be DId anyway). Truth be told I'm not sure how much it truly matters with regards to onstage gear these days when most of what the audience hears goes through the PA that you have little control over anyway. It amazes me how small everything is these days, the last head I owned was a Trace Elliot V6 that was a pure beaut but pretty drat heavy. I was never particularly good with the instrument, but it's very easy to fall into the trap of gear acquisition for sure and it was fun.
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Jun 11, 2021 23:24
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BobHoward posted:Pure gold is probably a lousy material to make wires out of. Not because of its electrical properties, but because terminating the connections would be difficult. It's so ductile that I doubt crimping would work well, and soldering to solid gold is problematic. (see: https://www.indium.com/blog/soldering-to-gold.php) I don't think the speaker with a broken connection that I spent 3 days fixing was ever actually used, but at least I got paid plus a free pizza and a few paintball air tanks. In retrospect it was maybe $50 all considered, but that was a lot when I was a college student. Neurophonic posted:For only $10k extra, I’ll hand carve you a “no wives allowed” sign and integrate a secret code word entry panel for your new man cave. Hint and solution in a spoiler tag in case anyone wants to think about it and see what they come up with. Hint: 8.065817517094e67 Solution: Don't reinvent the wheel, just use the output of a card shuffling algorithm.
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Jun 12, 2021 07:16
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If the intent is to slow down brute force attempts, you could just shuffle between 16 or so random layouts. Randomly picking each button is ridiculous overkill. In fact, randomly ordering the buttons is dumb because it would be much better to use a failure lockout to achieve the same thing. The only possible benefit is maybe so the fingerprints don't give it away?
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Jun 12, 2021 15:32
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That is exactly why they want that. That or some fantastical input hijacking.
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Jun 12, 2021 15:43
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EL BROMANCE posted:If I was to choose one of the cabs, I would take the 4x10 out with me. The 1x15 was nice and light though and probably preferable to mic by the soundguy (athough I would always be DId anyway). Truth be told I'm not sure how much it truly matters with regards to onstage gear these days when most of what the audience hears goes through the PA that you have little control over anyway. It amazes me how small everything is these days, the last head I owned was a Trace Elliot V6 that was a pure beaut but pretty drat heavy. I was never particularly good with the instrument, but it's very easy to fall into the trap of gear acquisition for sure and it was fun. One thing I learned when I used to gig was if you want to be loud in the PA mix then don't aim your amp at the sound guy. I would think of my amp as my monitor and aim it at where I wanted to hear it. I had a Peavy bass amp with the giant Black Widow speaker or whatever in it that I got so sick of lugging around NYC that I left it at the Mercury Lounge and they ended up using it as a house amp last I heard
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Jun 12, 2021 15:55
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MattO posted:I had a Peavy bass amp with the giant Black Widow speaker or whatever in it that I got so sick of lugging around NYC that I left it at the Mercury Lounge and they ended up using it as a house amp last I heard Ha, if you haven’t just abandoned some cabs are you truly a bassist? The 1x15 was left at a friends house and the 4x10 I left at a venue id go to all the time and when I stopped giggling I told them to keep it for backline. Neither cost me a huge amount and space in my house was more a premium than the money spent. I hope they’re still out there doing their thing, like those magical pants that the girls in the movie sent to eachother.
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Jun 12, 2021 16:09
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EL BROMANCE posted:Ha, if you haven’t just abandoned some cabs are you truly a bassist? The 1x15 was left at a friends house and the 4x10 I left at a venue id go to all the time and when I stopped giggling I told them to keep it for backline. Neither cost me a huge amount and space in my house was more a premium than the money spent. Lmao I've given away two bass amps to students of mine
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Jun 13, 2021 05:21
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EL BROMANCE posted:Ha, if you haven’t just abandoned some cabs are you truly a bassist? The 1x15 was left at a friends house and the 4x10 I left at a venue id go to all the time and when I stopped giggling I told them to keep it for backline. Neither cost me a huge amount and space in my house was more a premium than the money spent. I play bass through a magical pair of pants, if you know what I mean  I got one of those Fender Rumble Class D amps that weigh almost nothing compared to a regular amp and I've never looked back. TBH I don't gig with it much but when I do carry it out somewhere it's so much nicer to have an integrated amp that weighs less than just a head.
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Jun 14, 2021 16:07
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Just in case you were worried that this thread had gotten away from its original purpose, may I present... A USB->USB box with almost certainly no meaningful circuitry inside, for the low low intro price of $300! Take advantage now while supplies last!  https://www.underwoodhifi.com/produ...WlsLmNvbQ%3D%3D
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Jun 16, 2021 15:50
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Looks like an active usb extender with no long cable attached. Worthless.
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Jun 16, 2021 19:54
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A signal through a USB connection is 100% quantifiable. It's not like the overtones or whatever can be lost in transmission. Either the signal is good or it is corrupt. Digital audiophile stuff is really an amazing market. With any luck, it makes a slight high pitched noise while operating, effectively making the sound technically worse.
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Jun 16, 2021 20:05
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"Honestly if someone had told me they had swapped out my DAC for some upper-tier $5-10K component I’d have believed them." Honestly, if someone told me they had taken my DAC and instead hit me over the head with a shovel while taking my wallet and playing all of my music through a 20W Class D amp I'd have believed them!
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Jun 16, 2021 22:50
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these guys are just so close to truly understanding why $20 worth of components marked up to $500 sounds "as good" as the same components marked up to $5000.
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Jun 16, 2021 22:58
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polyester concept posted:these guys are just so close to truly understanding why $20 worth of components marked up to $500 sounds "as good" as the same components marked up to $5000. More $ = better than; you plebes will never understand. There's so much more "soul" that goes into a $4800 markup.
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Jun 16, 2021 23:16
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polyester concept posted:these guys are just so close to truly understanding why $20 worth of components marked up to $500 sounds "as good" as the same components marked up to $5000.
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Jun 16, 2021 23:40
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EL BROMANCE posted:Ha, if you haven’t just abandoned some cabs are you truly a bassist? The 1x15 was left at a friends house and the 4x10 I left at a venue id go to all the time and when I stopped giggling I told them to keep it for backline. Neither cost me a huge amount and space in my house was more a premium than the money spent. I've got a Sunn 2x15 here in my office that I might as well nail to the floor. No idea why I have the drat thing actually but it's fun to crank up for the neighbors.
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Jun 16, 2021 23:49
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What really makes the music sound good is the fancy volume dial on the front of your amplifier. The fancier the dial the smoother the highs and the punchier the lows. This is why Yamaha amps are so good. Really nice volume dials. If only I had a volume dial with the entire mayan calendar hand engraved on it by child slave labor. I can only imagine how good the music from such a device would be.
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Jun 17, 2021 12:12
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I have a Billie amp by Heaven 11 and their wooden dial goes up to 11.
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Jun 17, 2021 13:08
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strtj posted:Just in case you were worried that this thread had gotten away from its original purpose, may I present... another satisfied customer posted:"I took a $300 chance since there are no returns but couldn’t be any happier. I’m not affiliated with this product as some of you know me for several years now. I recommend anyone with a USB cable give this item a try."
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Jun 17, 2021 13:37
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It could theoretically be a copper -> fiber -> copper transceiver, which would help justify the cost to SOME degree (although it would still be stupid)
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Jun 17, 2021 14:58
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I googled "USB regenerator" and was unable to find anything that was not crazy overpriced audiophile ridiculousness. If you're that concerned about the jitter in your USB signal (which is  to begin with) why wouldn't you just get a higher quality source?I have had issues with digital signals before and you know what? They're really, really easy to hear. I had an S/PDIF coax cable that was getting wacky amounts of EM interference and it was clearly audible as pops. I also had a TOSlink cable that was failing and it was clearly audible as dropouts. As others have said over and over your digital signal is either 100% or it's very obviously wrong.
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Jun 17, 2021 19:18
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the idea of "good enough" is anthema to the audiophile mentality where you're always a few thousand dollars away from a wider soundstage, more holographic presence or tighter bass so a literal one dollar cable that can be bit perfect all day forever doesn't make sense I have had digital audio fuckups and yeah they are not subtle, typically so bad that you immediately scramble for the remote to skip to the next track
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Jun 17, 2021 21:14
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what do you goons consider “cruising altitude” in terms of high-end audio? Like, what’s the most money you’d ever spend on a complete system without getting to the point where you felt like you were just needlessly pissing away cash (assume that you don’t have other financial concerns, etc. this is money purely for audio). For me it’s probably $5k-$15k, which is a huge range, but honestly a lot of that is premium finishes and materials and special edition speakers and poo poo. $2k-$5k all in could probably get me 95% of the way to “endgame”, and there’s tons of stuff in the <$1k range that I just simply want or find desirable even though I know* that if I were actually building that system from scratch right now I’d probably just save up the $2-5k first and go for higher end stuff from the outset. In terms of actually picking components I just seriously can’t imagine ever wanting more than like an SL1200 with lets say $200-$800 put into the cartridge, max. If you really want to live it up and ‘money is no object’ get two of them. Ok that’s between $1100 and let’s say $4k at absolute maximum for two, plus you probably need a mixer. For streaming I seriously can’t picture spending more than like $600 for a Bluesound dealie of some kind. And more likely than not I’d just use an Apple TV/computer/etc. And for a DAC I seriously can’t imagine spending more than like a thousand bucks, at absolute maximum. Especially now that you can get fully-balanced poo poo for as little as $200. And if the DAC isn’t particularly expensive then you can imagine how I feel about spending more than low three figures for a CD player/transport. So then that leaves anywhere from $3k to $12k on amp/pre and speakers and therein lies the rub, because there are a lot of really nice speakers and amps in the $1k-10k range. But going beyond that seems totally ludicrous to me.
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Jun 17, 2021 22:07
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At a point it's more about having nice stuff than just stuff that sounds good, e.g. splashing out for a $5k NAD M33 over a cheaper streamer/integrated like the MiniDSP SHD or getting fancy custom veneer on Salk speakers over some piano black other thing. I think in the apartment I'm in now $5k is about the ceiling and most of that would be speakers since I already have a pretty good sub. If I had a dedicated listening room I'd love something like Dynaudio Contour 30s but a lot of that is to look at, the silver oak finish is so nice. I'd probably also spend money on making any room treatment not look like foam blocks covered in airport carpet.
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Jun 17, 2021 23:26
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My oversized ‘hifi’ is all hand me down parts from the high end of the pro audio world or leftovers from prototyping for projects that didn’t make it to launch. Things like the original ‘money no object’ Dolby Lake DSP aimed at top end studios that were broken, but fixable, and a set of ‘main’ monitors designed to go inside the wall. It’s all run from off cuts of multi core speaker wire and whatever XLR cable was left on the reel from an install. If I actually bought that stuff new, even at component level it would have run well over £20k - it’s using the same HF dome as the most expensive box from PMC for example. There’s very little chance I’d have considered it if I was paying that much though. I’d probably be pretty happy with a pair of KEF LS50 Meta and a Danley DTS10 sub if I was buying. Total cost easily under £10k including amps and peripherals and it wouldn’t occupy half the room. Post lottery win, I’d buy those ridiculous 12ft square multi entry horns I posted a bunch of pages back just because why the hell not.
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Jun 17, 2021 23:44
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