unknown posted:You generally want "AVR" (automatic voltage regulation) - basically if the voltage level drops/rises a little bit, the UPS doesn't go to battery, but will still fix the power issue. "Standby" UPSes aren't generally worth it. Thanks, that's good to know, esp about the house brand ones as some are on sale at the moment.
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Jun 21, 2021 14:12
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My understanding is that MIMO doesn't do anything unless all devices on your network support it, but MU-MIMO can help if at least 2 devices support it. Prime Day has the TP-Link A6 V3 with MU-MIMO for $40: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Archer-A6-V3-dp-B08KJF5BS7/dp/B08KJF5BS7/ My current router is the A7 which doesn't support regular MIMO but has a higher theoretical speed. I have 8 devices on my network, but the biggest bandwidth consumers are my desktop with an Intel AC9260 which supports MU MIMO and my Fire Stick 4K which supports regular MIMO. Am I likely to see a real world improvement in bandwidth? My internet connection is only FIOS 200/200 so I'm guessing no (even with Plex streaming from my desktop to my Fire Stick) unless I upgrade my FIOS to gigabit AND get another MU-MIMO device.
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Jun 21, 2021 14:50
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astral posted:1,6,11 are the channels you should choose from for 2.4GHz to not have overlap. Pick the least crowded of the 3. i'll do that when I get home. And the 5g? Also, are range extenders just a scam? This one is on amazon for cheap. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC750-WiFi-Range-Extender/dp/B07N1WW638/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wifi+extender&qid=1624285098&sr=8-3
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Jun 21, 2021 15:20
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Range extenders extend the range at the cost of halving your throughput, and are a pain to set up. Mesh extends your range and doesn't gently caress with your throughput.
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Jun 21, 2021 16:39
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FizFashizzle posted:i'll do that when I get home. And the 5g? For 5GHz, the channels don't overlap, but that only goes for the base 20MHz channels. When using 40, 80 or 160MHz channels, multiple 20MHz channels are combined together, so you can have some overlap if 20MHz channels are in use on a different network. A decent scanner like WiFi Analyzer on Android can show you this graphically, so you can choose the best setup. Wider channels give more throughput, but worse range. Generally don't bother with 160MHz, not all devices support it. Use 40 or 80MHz for the best compromise between throughput and range. As an additional annoyance, not all devices support all channels. You'll have to experiment a little, because the only guaranteed supported channels are 32-48 (and 149-161 in the US). Everything else depends on the manufacturer.
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Jun 21, 2021 17:10
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Binary Badger posted:Mesh extends your range and doesn't gently caress with your throughput. This point depends on whether there’s a dedicated wireless backhaul. Eero and Nest didn’t have dedicated backhaul last I checked. Orbi, linksys, and Amplifi do.
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Jun 21, 2021 17:15
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Josh Lyman posted:My understanding is that MIMO doesn't do anything unless all devices on your network support it, but MU-MIMO can help if at least 2 devices support it. Not sure what you mean by A7 not supporting SU-MIMO but MU-MIMO hasn’t been the greatest implemented feature and you aren’t going to see a benefit downgrading to a 2x2 MU-MIMO with that 2x2 wNIC. You’d need a 3x3 router to get any theoretical benefit.
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Jun 21, 2021 17:45
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The AC4000 (Archer A20) is only $120 today for Prime Day, any reason not to pick this up, since I need a new router?
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Jun 21, 2021 17:59
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So I picked up the TP-Link Archer C7 based on this thread's recommendation. After about a week of no issues, it's randomly started dropping the outbound connection for zero reason I can discern. I say outbound, only because I will hear people on zoom calls say "oh hey you froze" and disconnect after the standard timeout, after which it pops right back on as if nothing is amiss. I can see (and confirm) that my modem is connected throughout this whole time and my ISP states no problems, and swapping the router to my old one has no issues. Should I get a different one, or is there a setting/troubleshooting I should be doing? E: I should mention, I got this through Amazon renew program (basically refurb'd units) but some light googling shows this to be a semi-common issue. I've already swapped the unit out since that was quick/easy, but the issues persist. Since I WFH this is basically unacceptable. DelphiAegis fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jun 22, 2021 |
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Jun 22, 2021 00:04
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Boner Wad posted:In my area there are a lot of SSIDs all channels. Should I be basing my channel decisions off of what is least congested at my usual client location or from what the AP sees, from like what the UniFi AP RF analyzer does? Personally I'd consider both locations, but if your AP is not centrally located and all your clients tend to be in one spot, it wouldn't be a bad idea to weigh that a bit more. I'd also generally go with different channels for each.
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Jun 22, 2021 00:54
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Unfi 6 LR popped back in stock so I jumped on one, and I'm sick of my stupid temp Netgear router, so I broke down and got a mikrotik hex s since it has a poe out and a sfp port that I can use with my managed switch The spec sheets show the unfi 6 wants 48v at 500mA and the router is able to supply that, so fingers crossed there should be no issues? I'm looking to completely reset all my network setup, but is there a particular order of operations I should worry about, like will I need a wan connection or DHCP to set to the AP or will I need the AP up to connect to the router setup first? This is just for a home setup, but I would prefer my iot 2.4ghz devices as well as SOME 5ghz on a separate vlan, but even with the sfp port, vlan is based on port number unless I can assign different wireless networks differently and have it seen by the switch?
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Jun 22, 2021 11:20
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VLANs are assigned per SSID. You would need two in your setup. The order doesn’t really matter as long as your controller’s IP is static before registering the AP.
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Jun 22, 2021 12:26
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Question about home wiring! I'm going to be owning a home very soon ( ) and I am not sure where my cable hookup will be for my modem. I'm thinking I'll probably want to run some wiring through my wall, either to move the modem to a different spot, or possibly to just run some cat6. My question is, is one better than the other? Will I have noticeable network issues if I run one or the other?Assume I know nothing about home networking because I don't 
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Jun 22, 2021 19:22
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It's probably logistically easier to have your modem by your router but really it doesn't matter, it's just a device like any other. If you have a cable drop that isn't near where you plan on having a patch panel or w/e for all your wires to meet up where your router lives, that would be a good reason to have the modem somewhere else (assuming you didn't want to put in a new coax drop).
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Jun 22, 2021 19:40
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The OP hasn't been updated in a decade - what mesh system does everyone recommend? I'm looking for something to rec to my friend. I use Velop, and it's fine, but i don't know too much about the other options, and I definitely don't trust wirecutter.
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Jun 22, 2021 20:13
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Dogen posted:It's probably logistically easier to have your modem by your router but really it doesn't matter, it's just a device like any other. If you have a cable drop that isn't near where you plan on having a patch panel or w/e for all your wires to meet up where your router lives, that would be a good reason to have the modem somewhere else (assuming you didn't want to put in a new coax drop). Hmmm, okay! I was planning on having the router by the modem if possible. And I think I remember reading I shouldn't have any devices, eg my desktop, plugged directly into the modem for safety concerns, is that correct? If my current coax wires don't go where I want them, that's probably a bigger job then just fishing wire through a wall, yeah?
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Jun 22, 2021 20:19
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Johnny Truant posted:Question about home wiring! I'm going to be owning a home very soon ( Eons ago, when I first got a cable modem at my mom's house, the coax service came in at one end of the house. The coax wiring within the house was marginal quality at best - good enough for cable TV, but a cable modem wouldn't hold a signal for poo poo. So the modem got plunked in the only place in the house where it would actually connect, and we ran a long Cat5 from the cable modem to where the computer actually was. There weren't any problems with doing this, but today I'd probably just make the cable company move the drop for the modem, especially since that's the only coax-connected device I'll have. Edit: Johnny Truant posted:Hmmm, okay! I was planning on having the router by the modem if possible. And I think I remember reading I shouldn't have any devices, eg my desktop, plugged directly into the modem for safety concerns, is that correct? Router and modem together is preferable, but not required. It's just an ethernet connection between them, you could have them up to 300' apart by cable distance. Yes, you should not have anything other than a router plugged directly into the modem, outside of very limited testing purposes. Running a new coax through a house is exactly just "fishing wire through a wall". Not much different than running Cat5 through the wall. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jun 22, 2021 |
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Jun 22, 2021 20:19
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Johnny Truant posted:Question about home wiring! I'm going to be owning a home very soon ( If you’re on FIOS you may not have a modem (the ONT acts as one) so keep that in mind.
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Jun 22, 2021 20:19
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:If you’re on FIOS you may not have a modem (the ONT acts as one) so keep that in mind. I won't be, unfortunately  Spectrum 400mb is the best I can get.So if I need to move a coax port around that's the ISPs job?
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Jun 22, 2021 20:21
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Johnny Truant posted:
Up to you. They probably will (Cox did, in my case) especially if it's just a single drop for the modem and you're abandoning all the rest of the coax. But they'll charge for it and there are certainly no shortage of stories of poorly done coax installs done by cable/telco people. No reason you couldn't DIY it if you have / are willing to acquire the skills and tools needed, or you could find someone locally who does data cabling who would probably give you a more professional result than whoever the cable company sends.
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Jun 22, 2021 20:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Up to you. They probably will (Cox did, in my case) especially if it's just a single drop for the modem and you're abandoning all the rest of the coax. But they'll charge for it and there are certainly no shortage of stories of poorly done coax installs done by cable/telco people. Word, thanks! Since I'm only gonna have the one coax hookup like you had earlier, I'll probably have somebody else do it. Another service to research and pay for 
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Jun 22, 2021 20:33
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New house, it's large, and I'm trying to get decent wifi coverage while also connecting a basement TV/XBOX through ethernet. Wondering about how to do this, and if I should do it with my current equipment or add something new. I have the FIOS G3100 router which was part of my current gigabit package for no extra cost. I also have a G1100 router from my old house. Currently I just have the new router set up on the ground floor and I get reasonable connections everywhere in the house though certainly nowhere near what the connection is capable of. In the short-term, I would at least like to get my xbox in the basement connected by ethernet. Fortunately, the ONT is in the basement, and when they installed it, they actually ran a wire from the ONT to an ethernet jack right behind where the TV/XBOX wound up going. That's connected to another ethernet cable from the previous owners that ran from there to the ground floor where we currently have the G3100. So I think this works out well to have the xbox wired in there, and then keep the router where it is now. Do I just add a router in between the basement jack and the ground floor router? And if so, which should go where? Or should I just put the new VZW router in the basement, and then buy new equipment for the ground floor wifi network. I don't mind spending a little bit of money if it will work better. When I tried inserting the old router downstairs, that connected fine but then the downstream router was unhappy and wasn't connected to the Internet. I assume there's just some settings I need to change.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:01
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Johnny Truant posted:Word, thanks! Since I'm only gonna have the one coax hookup like you had earlier, I'll probably have somebody else do it. Another service to research and pay for I’ve never been charged for a coax drop run outside when getting new service but YMMV.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:37
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Dogen posted:I’ve never been charged for a coax drop run outside when getting new service but YMMV. Same
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Jun 23, 2021 00:17
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So the OP is very much out of date, and networking hardware is the thing i have to buy so infrequently I never know any of the details of whats worth getting. My last router was an ASUS that I really liked and worked well, but I finally need a a new router thats wifi 6, so naturally my point of reference was to look at ASUS since I liked my last one from years and years ago. So, is this worth getting? A waste? A bad router? Overkill, underkill? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BJHS3X7 I hate feeling like grandma asking the kids what kind of iphone laptop to buy from circuit city, but thats how networking hardware always feels. Somebody fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jun 23, 2021 |
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Jun 23, 2021 01:09
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Dogen posted:I’ve never been charged for a coax drop run outside when getting new service but YMMV. I was able to get the att fiber installer dude to install two drop when he installed the fiber, and he was like I have to charge you, but call the customer support line tomorrow and tell them I damaged the floor or wall or something and they will take it off the bill, and might even give you a credit depending how upset you seem. Dude was legit.
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Jun 23, 2021 01:12
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Tom Guycot posted:I hate feeling like grandma asking the kids what kind of iphone laptop to buy from circuit city, but thats how networking hardware always feels. Smallnetbuilder likes it. I don’t know what constitutes overkill for you. My only thought would be to wait for 6E if you can, but if you can’t this is a good choice
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Jun 23, 2021 01:17
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Dogen posted:Smallnetbuilder likes it. I don’t know what constitutes overkill for you. My only thought would be to wait for 6E if you can, but if you can’t this is a good choice Thanks, just looked up the 6e stuff, and it all looks, way way more expensive than I'd like to spend on a home router i need within the next few weeks. So much for future proofing in the world of home networking 
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Jun 23, 2021 01:41
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Yeah if you need it soon forget it just get the one you asked about
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Jun 23, 2021 02:09
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Tom Guycot posted:So the OP is very much out of date, and networking hardware is the thing i have to buy so infrequently I never know any of the details of whats worth getting. Hey, no harm, no foul, but I edited out the affiliate portion of your link. The part with: code:
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Jun 23, 2021 02:26
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Internet Explorer posted:Hey, no harm, no foul, but I edited out the affiliate portion of your link. The part with: Cheers, i really hate the modern internet where nothing is just a link anymore, lol.
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Jun 23, 2021 02:52
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Dogen posted:I’ve never been charged for a coax drop run outside when getting new service but YMMV. That Works posted:Same  I signed up for internet through Spectrum but they emails have been weird, I'm just gonna call em when I actually am in the house and can look at the ports.
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Jun 23, 2021 22:08
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Spectrum people came out to look at my service problems because they could pick up over their network that mine was poo poo. turns out the splitter that had been left and i had plugged into was barely functioning. Guy was totally chill, ran a new line to a different part of the house, and now i can hardwire the computer. so yeah I'm an idiot but thanks john from spectrum! and it was free!
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Jun 24, 2021 17:21
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Sweet! Glad that got sorted.
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Jun 24, 2021 18:50
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I got a largish house with 4 Ubiquiti Unifi AC Pro's, 2 on the main floor, 2 upstairs. My main phone is an iPhone Xs that I'm on almost the entire day with back to back Teams calls. My problem is that frequently rather than seamlessly handing off from one AP to another as I walk around it'll drop to LTE, drop the call, reconnect, notice a new AP, joint that, sometimes then dropping the call a second time. Any settings I can do to fix this? It's not all the time and in the logs I can see plenty of cases where it's doing the handoff properly but it's often enough that if I just want to walk to the kitchen to grab some coffee I have to time it for when I'm not speaking. Controller software 6.2.26 AP Version 4.3.28.11361 iOS 14.6
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Jun 24, 2021 19:51
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If it's only doing it on your iPhone, you can try turning off Wi-Fi Assist at the bottom of the Cellular settings menu. That makes it a bit less aggressive about switching to LTE iirc
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Jun 24, 2021 21:07
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Am I overloading my USG-3P? I finally got around to setting up separate VLANs to segregate my devices and ever since the network performance has been wonky. I ended up with 3 VLANs, half a dozen LAN IN rules, and a couple LAN LOCAL rules. About ~100 clients total on the network. Threat management & DPI is disabled. Hardware offload is enabled. I was thinking this is a pretty simple setup that shouldn't be causing this thing to choke? Speed test runs OK some of the time from a VLAN machine (950 Mbps / 40 Mbps) but then I'll get one that runs at like 10 Mbps. File downloads via HTTPS or SFTP are dog slow (0.5 - 1.0 Mbps). Same performance issues on a machine on the default LAN as well (not one of the new VLANs). USG CPU is < 5% though and memory is < 25%. Everything seemed fine before I created the VLANs & firewall rules. Something doesn't seem right. fletcher fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 18:18
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I tried disabling all the firewall rules and disabled the new VLAN networks I created (seems that can only be done in the new settings UI) but the issue remains. Hmmm. Maybe need to try connecting directly to the modem now to see if the performance issue is something upstream. iperf from one machine on a VLAN to another on that VLAN works fine, getting 940 Mbps. fletcher fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 19:29
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Now everything is working fine, and I have no idea why. Yesterday I power cycled my modem, USG, and switch and the issue persisted. Just now I unplugged the ethernet cable between the modem & USG and plugged it back in, and now I'm getting full download speeds again. Same public IP as before. edit: Seems like maybe I'm not alone with weird unexplained performance issues on the USG-3P: https://community.ui.com/questions/USG-Slow-Internet-Throughput/25fa6967-cbbe-4c87-94ff-bf48dafc3e84?page=7 fletcher fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 20:14
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Just got my UnFi 6 LR AP and settled on a mikrotik hex s since it has the SFP port and POE out (and its in stock) Despite the specs saying the router can supply the 16w @ 48v @ .5A that the AP needs, I neglected to notice that they only give you a 24v power supply. They sell a 48v one but that is either OOS or $absurd. I decided to go with the recommended ubiquiti POE injector that wort case i can just use as is, but I am wondering if I can use it to power the router, which in then will pass through and power the AP. Is this a stupid plan? I'm reading that anything POE in is available POE out but this is my first touch on POE stuff and Im learning all the stuff that should be obvious is out the window with the 'high power' poe equipment
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Jun 30, 2021 15:33
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