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I've been reading this book: https://www.amazon.com/Training-Climbing-Definitive-Improving-Performance-ebook/dp/B01GISBCDQ One of the points the author makes with regards to strength training for climbing purposes is "specificity":   As an intermediate-level climber, this was an eye opener for me, because it made me realize why I'm nowhere as strong on the wall as I'm in the weightlifting room, and why making even large gains in the latter don't translate to gains with the former.
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Jul 7, 2021 23:17
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Argh I wanna get this mantle so bad. This was the sort of thing that I saw when I first started bouldering and thought would always be too hard for me https://streamable.com/7sc1kw Tomorrow I'm gonna try to switch my right hand to a mantle while locked off with my left, then push a bit and switch my left to a mantle, and then I should be fine. bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jul 9, 2021 |
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Jul 9, 2021 06:11
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Looks to me like you had it  I always struggle with any sort of mantle/pushy kinda move like that
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Jul 9, 2021 11:25
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Yeah you're definitely close. Getting your weight in close to the wall helps with balancing over the arm as you mantle. Maybe turning your right knee in and down will help? Maybe not, depends on the wall geometry.
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Jul 9, 2021 11:42
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Hard to say without touching the holds, but you might be able to extend your arm further before reaching. Quite often you need to turn your hand so you can press until your arm is fully extended. Pivoting your right foot would probably help too depending on the wall and holds. It'll help you get closer to the wall and get in a better position to press. You're close!
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Jul 9, 2021 12:53
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Argh I wanna get this mantle so bad. This was the sort of thing that I saw when I first started bouldering and thought would always be too hard for me Can you turn your right foot more as you go for the move so your toes are facing the wall more? That may help you shift your weight more towards the right side of your body with your hips, so that you can fit into the right "box" as you try to transition. You're already doing it naturally because it feels better, but if you do it intentionally that might give you more options with that move.
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Jul 9, 2021 16:37
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I'm getting to be a mock client for a guide test on Sunday so I pretty much get a half day guided climb for free. I'm pretty stoked about it.
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Jul 9, 2021 16:54
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Thanks for all the advice about being a big chonker while bouldering! I went climbing last night and it was a really good experience. I tried maybe 9-10 of the easiest range of problems the gym has over the course of a couple of hours, and was able to finish (send? do I get to use bouldering slang now?) all three of them. I'm sore today but nothing hurts in a way it shouldn't, so I think I rested sufficiently between attempts and stopped while I still had a couple in the tank. I think it's going to be slow going, getting to a point where I feel confident and not out of place, but I enjoyed it a lot and will probably be getting a membership at the gym. I found I have a really hard time with any overhang-ish walls, and roofs are going to be totally out for me for a while (not that they had any "easy" roofs anyway). I tried one lightly-angled overhang and even doing my best to keep my arms straight and sort of push back against the wall to try to take more of my weight on my feet, I was pretty exhausted by the end of it. It's something to work towards, I suppose!
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Jul 9, 2021 17:15
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MockingQuantum posted:Thanks for all the advice about being a big chonker while bouldering! I went climbing last night and it was a really good experience. I tried maybe 9-10 of the easiest range of problems the gym has over the course of a couple of hours, and was able to finish (send? do I get to use bouldering slang now?) all three of them. I'm sore today but nothing hurts in a way it shouldn't, so I think I rested sufficiently between attempts and stopped while I still had a couple in the tank. I think it's going to be slow going, getting to a point where I feel confident and not out of place, but I enjoyed it a lot and will probably be getting a membership at the gym. Heck yeah. Keep at it and you will be cruising in no time.
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Jul 9, 2021 17:24
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I hope so! It's helpful that I have friends that go 2-3 times a week, so even if I go and only do a small handful of attempts, I don't feel like I'm just loitering around the gym for no reason. I'm hoping I keep losing weight though, I definitely feel like I'm physically in my own way for some maneuvers. Any advice on shoes for a first-timer? I've used the gym's rental shoes a couple of times but I have unusually wide feet, so the rentals tend to start out feeling fine but pinch across my toes/instep after I start climbing and they really started to hurt by the end of the night. I think I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and get a good pair that fits me well. There's a local climbing/mountaineering store with a little mini-bouldering wall for you to try out shoes, so I was planning on just going there and having someone who knows what they're doing get me fitted for a pair, but I'm curious if there's anything I should look for/avoid.
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Jul 9, 2021 17:28
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MockingQuantum posted:Thanks for all the advice about being a big chonker while bouldering! I went climbing last night and it was a really good experience. I tried maybe 9-10 of the easiest range of problems the gym has over the course of a couple of hours, and was able to finish (send? do I get to use bouldering slang now?) all three of them. I'm sore today but nothing hurts in a way it shouldn't, so I think I rested sufficiently between attempts and stopped while I still had a couple in the tank. I think it's going to be slow going, getting to a point where I feel confident and not out of place, but I enjoyed it a lot and will probably be getting a membership at the gym. Overhangs are harder for everyone. That's why they put them in gyms! (That and it's probably a little safer for bouldering than a slab) Overhung stuff will tire your arms out faster but will also train them faster IME alnilam fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Jul 9, 2021 |
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Jul 9, 2021 17:33
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MockingQuantum posted:I hope so! It's helpful that I have friends that go 2-3 times a week, so even if I go and only do a small handful of attempts, I don't feel like I'm just loitering around the gym for no reason. I'm hoping I keep losing weight though, I definitely feel like I'm physically in my own way for some maneuvers. Do buy shoes. Rental are expensive and will heavily limit you. Get something that fits, is reasonably comfortable and is within your budget. Shoes will not be a limiting factor for quite a while and comfort is pretty important if you want to enjoy climbing. As someone who is heavier I'd advice against shoes with very soft rubber (like the Veloce from scarpa) if you want your shoes to last for a long time. Congrats on going and enjoying yourself. You'll probably progress more than you think in the next few months even if you don't feel you have the perfect body for the sport. The sensation of sending something that you wouldn't even dare try today is pretty addictive!
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Jul 9, 2021 17:42
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MockingQuantum posted:I hope so! It's helpful that I have friends that go 2-3 times a week, so even if I go and only do a small handful of attempts, I don't feel like I'm just loitering around the gym for no reason. I'm hoping I keep losing weight though, I definitely feel like I'm physically in my own way for some maneuvers. Get your own shoes. Don't get something super aggressive or tight. My gym shoes are Tanya Tanta, they are a "beginner" shoe but they are cheap and you can climb hard in them. Get something that feels good though even if it is a bit more expensive. Then just climb. Don't worry too much about technique and sending it "legit". Just go climb and have fun. Listen to your friends advice on technique.
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Jul 9, 2021 17:42
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spwrozek posted:Then just climb. Don't worry too much about technique and sending it "legit". Just go climb and have fun. Listen to your friends advice on technique. This is going to be the struggle for me, just because I tend to feel like I need to do things the "right" way and will usually dive into research and YT videos in a spree to learn a thing before I have any clue what I'm actually doing. I've mostly managed to not do that with climbing so far, and diving in and doing it has been good, because I pretty quickly realized I wouldn't even know what technique questions to ask without a lot more experience on the wall. Near the end of the night, after the gym had kind of cleared out and I felt less like I'd be in the way, I also just started trying different holds or body positions, even if they were holds from a different route or even downclimbs, and it's funny how it didn't even occur to me at first that I could kind of do whatever and probably have it help me develop some skills and strength, and that as long as I wasn't getting in the way of other climbers, nobody would care. Turns out there's no Bouldering Police who appear out of nowhere to scold you for going off-route.
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Jul 9, 2021 18:01
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I go off-route all the time when I want to re-try a hard move I failed on higher up. It's really common when people are projecting something. Then when you finally get the hang of the harder move, you rest and re-attempt the route as a whole. Or like, cheat and use the wrong foothold during the hardest part of the route, then come back and try it the "right" way later. Even experienced climbers do stuff like that all the time in the gym. Other random poo poo I see all the time in the gym: Someone finding two jug holds on an underhang route and doing pull ups on it Someone making up their own cave traverse "Doing laps" (up- and down-climbing repeatedly, often with no regard to which route certain holds are on, to tire yourself out at the end of the night)
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Jul 9, 2021 18:07
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MockingQuantum posted:This is going to be the struggle for me, just because I tend to feel like I need to do things the "right" way and will usually dive into research and YT videos in a spree to learn a thing before I have any clue what I'm actually doing. I do this as well Find a new hobby and throw myself into it hard like that.I think it was this thread that turned me onto it when I got into climbing, but I found this playlist to be helpful: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r A whole bunch of really short videos demonstrating lots of different things. A lot of won't make sense if you're pretty much brand new, but I found it helpful to just watch a few videos at a time and try to put it to practice in my next session. Probably watched the whole thing a few times over, and as I got better then a lot of the videos made more sense. For now though, just climb and have fun. I'd say just bookmark that for later once you've been climbing for like a month or so
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Jul 9, 2021 18:07
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What do you guys do about your calluses? I find that callus pain tends to be the primary reason I end my climbing sessions, when the rest of my body can easily keep going (esp. after I slam a snickers bar or something).
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Jul 9, 2021 18:46
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When mine get very pronounced I'll take a single edge razor and shave some of it off. Some people like pedicure/manicure files but those seem tedious to me
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Jul 9, 2021 19:10
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:What do you guys do about your calluses? I find that callus pain tends to be the primary reason I end my climbing sessions, when the rest of my body can easily keep going (esp. after I slam a snickers bar or something). I have some sand paper that I use to control them
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Jul 9, 2021 19:35
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spwrozek posted:Get your own shoes. Don't get something super aggressive or tight. My gym shoes are Tanya Tanta, they are a "beginner" shoe but they are cheap and you can climb hard in them. Get something that feels good though even if it is a bit more expensive. I got Boreal Joker Lace as my beginner shoes and they suit me well. I tried on a bunch first though as each brand seems to have their own quirks of sizing. If you think you're going to go climbing even semi regularly then it makes much more sense than renting.
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Jul 9, 2021 19:48
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Argh I wanna get this mantle so bad. This was the sort of thing that I saw when I first started bouldering and thought would always be too hard for me we have a similar build/height do you want me to take a vid of this next time im in north van
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Jul 10, 2021 06:54
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MockingQuantum posted:This is going to be the struggle for me, just because I tend to feel like I need to do things the "right" way and will usually dive into research and YT videos in a spree to learn a thing before I have any clue what I'm actually doing. I've mostly managed to not do that with climbing so far, and diving in and doing it has been good, because I pretty quickly realized I wouldn't even know what technique questions to ask without a lot more experience on the wall. I have a friend who does the same. I suspect he might be on the spectrum slightly (no slight towards you  ) because he will constantly try to read up on who to do something or in other weird ways find the best way to do something other than you know, just trying it out.The thing I love most about climbing is the constant challenge to your mind as well as the body, at ALL levels. When you're faced with a problem that's new there's always a process of trying and failing and also using what you know about technique and body control to figure out how to solve it. It is incredibly satisfying and gives a ton of confidence and a feeling of learning and mastering when you do solve something. There's a reason people always say "just climb" when beginners ask how to get better, because you're constantly building your own repertoire of moves and solutions to different types of holds and problems, and your climbing style will always differ from somebody elses.
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Jul 10, 2021 08:29
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Re: shoe chat, I've found that comfortable shoes will keep me in the gym for longer and I enjoy it more. My advice is to get something that fits well but doesn't hurt your feet while climbing. Like others have said, the shoes will not matter untill you get to a pretty high level and are climbing crazy overhangs with razor edge crimps or whatever.
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Jul 10, 2021 08:31
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Verviticus posted:we have a similar build/height do you want me to take a vid of this next time im in north van That would be awesome, thanks!
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Jul 10, 2021 12:05
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I went to Squamish today. I didn't see a bug, but I saw a dog, so I love climbing outside now.
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Jul 11, 2021 01:44
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I tried a 2016 moonboard setup for the first time today. I built a personal mini moonboard last year and so I was curious to try other setups and see if they are just as sandbagged. It turns out that the mini is just insanely sandbagged (at least for my body style) by at least 1-2 V grades compared to the 2016 set benchmarks,
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Jul 11, 2021 03:50
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:That would be awesome, thanks! https://streamable.com/9gv0th annoyingly someone bumped the camera but i think the big difference is that 95% of my forces are oppositional between my foot and right arm. the left arm is almost just guiding me upwards but im not really doing any mantling edit my friend just did it with a full left arm mantle and it looked a lot harder that way Verviticus fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 05:06
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I went to Squamish today. I didn't see a bug, but I saw a dog, so I love climbing outside now. Squamish is amazing. I definitely need to get back up there for like, a solid week or so. I was only there for two days when I was there, and the biggest cam I had was a single #4 C4.
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Jul 11, 2021 15:10
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Verviticus posted:https://streamable.com/9gv0th Thanks for this! Looks like there are a lot of small things I can improve on that would make this problem much easier for me. armorer posted:Squamish is amazing. I definitely need to get back up there for like, a solid week or so. I was only there for two days when I was there, and the biggest cam I had was a single #4 C4. Did you do any bouldering there? Pretty rad environment, and very different from the gym (right now at least) socially. I got a couple of moves into a really tough V6 (Minor Threat) which feels like my biggest accomplishment ever. bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 18:41
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Thanks for this! Looks like there are a lot of small things I can improve on that would make this problem much easier for me. Nah me and my buddy basically did whatever crack climbs our rack would suffice for. Definitely need to do the Chief next time.
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Jul 11, 2021 19:45
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Would love some beta for this slightly overhung assholes of a problem: https://imgur.com/YmF8M4X The higher you get the more overhung it becomes, but it's never extremely so. Everyone I've talked to is stuck at that exact same spot, just trying to figure out how to get your weight around that big blue piece. The only people I know who can do it just use Tall People Beta which is totally not applicable for me  Given the absolute lack of chalk on the left side of that hold to the right, I guess trying to press into it with my right hand is not the move and instead probably supposed to just go around to the other side, but I can't seem to figure out what the hell to do with my feet really. Seems like I need to get my left foot where that right heel hook is then bring my right foot over to that little chip off to the right, but trying to get my left planted in there is so hard Sab669 fucked around with this message at 13:42 on Jul 12, 2021 |
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Jul 12, 2021 12:58
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What you describe is what I would try first from the look of it. You're barn dooring off and having your right foot out wide right would give you a way to fight that.
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Jul 12, 2021 14:24
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Sab669 posted:Seems like I need to get my left foot where that right heel hook is then bring my right foot over to that little chip off to the right, but trying to get my left planted in there is so hard That seems to be the beta. Can you mantle more on the hold to.the left instead of using the sidepull? Would help switch feet without barndooring possibly.
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Jul 12, 2021 15:17
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MockingQuantum posted:was able to finish (send? do I get to use bouldering slang now?) all three of them. You are going to have to start learning to be a true boulderer and begin complaining that the 3 problems you couldn't send were sandbagged
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Jul 12, 2021 15:31
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KingColliwog posted:That seems to be the beta. Might be able to, I'll have to try that next time. Unfortunately my right middle finger was quite sore at the end of yesterday's longer session, pretty sore today too so I guess I should take a good few days off 🙁
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Jul 12, 2021 15:49
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:You are going to have to start learning to be a true boulderer and begin complaining that the 3 problems you couldn't send were sandbagged Oh yeah I'm positive those three slopey V0 problems with nice juggy holds were absolutely sandbagged, definitely not me forgetting what feet are, no sir
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Jul 12, 2021 16:15
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MockingQuantum posted:Oh yeah I'm positive those three slopey V0 problems with nice juggy holds were absolutely sandbagged, definitely not me forgetting what feet are, no sir Well you said slopey and v0, seems sandbagged to me! Otherwise, you can always look at your fingers when you fall and complain about skin so you don't overuse.the sandbag.excuse. Also, you need to say flashhhhhh everytime you flash a boulder (if no one saw you try it before it is also a flash).
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Jul 12, 2021 18:07
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Any problem you can send is soft, anything you cannot send is sandbagged
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Jul 12, 2021 22:33
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That's a lot of sandbagged problems at my gym then, oof How often should I be bouldering, when I'm starting out? Or maybe the better question is how often is too often? Caveat here is that I'm a rank beginner, and overweight with a pretty poor level of fitness all around. I lift heavy poo poo at work all day but any kind of aerobic activity kicks my butt. Should I wait between bouldering sessions until I don't have any muscle soreness? It seems to me that overworking and hurting yourself is pretty common in people new to bouldering and I'd like to avoid it if at all possible.
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Jul 12, 2021 23:16
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I'd say no more frequently than every other day, and if you think need a second or even third day of rest better safe than sorry. But it also depends on just how long / hard you're climbing for in any given session.
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Jul 12, 2021 23:23
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