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Well, ordered a C1 and it should be here by the end of the month, going from a 55 to a 65. Here's to hoping I do better on the panel lottery, my C7 was never too great on the banding front (always had some obvious vertical bands in very low light grayish scenes) but otherwise it was perfect. One automated full pixel refresh cycle at around 6k hours and the band turns into a huge, discolored brick that shows up on virtually anything solid and bright, and I get weird grid looking uniformity issues as well. The fact that an otherwise alright set like that can go from fine to total dogshit after one refresh has me paranoid about my new set, but I'm hoping I was just very, very unlucky. I did have the TV for a solid 3 years but I was hoping to get at least 5 before an upgrade.
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Jul 7, 2021 12:49
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LG 55" A1 $1,299 shipped - includes $50 Visa gift card and 4 year accident coverage warranty. 65" model goes for $1,899 shipped.
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Jul 7, 2021 17:20
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So has anyone ever found a solution to the LG audio sync issues? I'm at my wits end here and starting to kind of resent my new LG C1. The root of the problem is this: Dolby Digital = Noticeable audio lag. Characters lips start moving and then half a second later the audio starts. PCM = No lag but no surround sound either. Everything is in stereo. I know folks are going to tell me to bypass the TV for audio but that's not really an option with my setup. wash bucket fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jul 7, 2021 |
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Jul 7, 2021 22:58
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Cross-posting from PS5 thread with niche info that's of no use to anyone: PSA for people with an older amp that doesn't support ARC/eARC, who have just bought a PS5/new TV! (yes this is a niche group shut your mouth If anyone, like me, has bought a fancy new TV to go with their fancy new PS5, but is worried about things not playing with their amp/audio setup, hoo boy this is the post for you. I've got an old (but good!) Sony DH800 amp, and, like a simple man, I enjoy panning the camera around myself in games to hear sounds move from speaker to speaker. When I got my PS5, I realised that my amp wasn't specced to squirt HDR/4k resolution back to the TV, so I could either have 7.1 surround sound and no HDR, or crappy TV speakers but with pretty pictures. My new TV had e-ARC (which is you're unaware lets you use an HDMI port on your TV as an audio out to an amp that supports it), but, once again, the age of the amp meant it couldn't support that. After doing some research, I came across this extremely dodgy looking product and site: https://www.thenaudio.com/product/sharc-earc-audio-converter/  For $188 it promises to take the eARC from your TV and gently caress around with it to act as a normal audio input for your non eARC amp! Powered by the USB on your TV, and has a variety of additional outputs/dip switches etc that I'm frantically too scared to touch. Excitingly though, it works! I've got an LG CX and it works a treat. It took a little fiddling with the TV's & PS5 audio settings, but it actually did what I wanted it to do. Well worth a try if you've upgraded your TV and are too broke to upgrade your amp as well, IMHO. Again, this may be a super niche crowd to talk to, but for my exact circumstances it was perfect, and I've not seen many folks talking about it, so I thought I'd share it here. I'm absolutely not being paid to say this, but if you fuckers are reading this, I'm not a proud man and will accept any and every scrap you'll throw my way
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Jul 13, 2021 10:39
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Flint_Paper posted:Excitingly though, it works! I've got an LG CX and it works a treat. It took a little fiddling with the TV's & PS5 audio settings, but it actually did what I wanted it to do. Well, I have a confession, I bought one of these too. Except it didn't work for me at all and then I felt like a rube. I can get stereo PCM out of the headphone jack but that's it. That means I can get audio from my PS5 through my LG C1 to the adapter but my AV equipment can't "hear" it. If you'd be willing to share your PS5 and TV settings I'd love to compare notes. My first and biggest question, are you passing it PCM 7.1 or Dolby Digital (bitstream) 7.1?
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Jul 13, 2021 12:06
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Lil Swamp Booger Baby posted:Well, ordered a C1 and it should be here by the end of the month, going from a 55 to a 65. Did LG say “f you” and not help at all even though you were out of warranty?
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Jul 13, 2021 13:42
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One thing to note is that you use your TVs ARC port in connecting this device, meaning that if, like me, you have some devices connected directly to the TV and some connected directly to the AMP, you will not be able to use the latter if you're using this.
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Jul 13, 2021 14:12
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Incessant Excess posted:One thing to note is that you use your TVs ARC port in connecting this device, meaning that if, like me, you have some devices connected directly to the TV and some connected directly to the AMP, you will not be able to use the latter if you're using this. I'm actually glad to hear these work, I was eyeing one myself as a holdover until AVRs that can do HDMI 2.1 properly become widely available.
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Jul 13, 2021 18:02
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wolrah posted:Why would that matter? Devices connected directly to the amp don't need to have their audio routed back to the amp. They need to have their video passed to the TV.
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Jul 13, 2021 18:08
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Flint_Paper posted:For $188 it promises to take the eARC from your TV and gently caress around with it to act as a normal audio input for your non eARC amp! Oof that's a lot of money, out of intrigue how come you didn't just put it towards replacing what looks to be a 10+ year old entry to low-mid level receiver? e: ah I'm guessing maybe you use all the analog stuff that's not so prevalent these days? EL BROMANCE fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jul 13, 2021 |
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Jul 13, 2021 18:13
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A cheap eARC capable receiver costs twice as much.
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Jul 13, 2021 18:15
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What’s the word on 8K TVs right now? I’m wondering if anything good will go down to like ~$2000 or lower for 65” within the next two or three years. My dad has been a dumbass with his viewing choices on our LG OLED (he puts it on CNN/MSNBC almost all day long if nothing else is on) and now the screen has hella burn-in from all the news title boxes. It’s so bad that whenever the bottom-left turns red you can clearly read the word “pandemic” on it now (thanks 2020!) I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jul 13, 2021 |
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Jul 13, 2021 20:16
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The question is, why would you want one? 8k content isn't a thing and it's not going to be a thing. Nothing gaming can drive at 8k.
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Jul 13, 2021 20:35
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Incessant Excess posted:They need to have their video passed to the TV. --- For example I have the CX 65" and an old Marantz SR7001. The receiver is over a decade old and maxes out at HDMI 1.2 so not only does it not support any form of 4K, it doesn't even support basic ARC. I have an optical cable connected from the TV to the receiver, but this only supports PCM stereo and DVD-era surround formats. This means that with my PC and XSX I'm forced to choose between connecting them to the receiver and getting full surround sound with 1080p60 SDR graphics or connecting them to the TV and getting 4K120 HDR but being mostly limited to stereo audio. Right now my receiver's output is connected to input 1 on my TV and I have a MiSTer, a Raspberry Pi, and a PS3 attached to it. My PC and XSX then plug in to the TV directly. This leaves one port free on each, which is perfect. If I were to get the shARC, I would attach its input to my TV's HDMI 2 port, since that's the ARC port, and then its output would connect to the remaining free input on my receiver. When using devices connected to the AVR, I'd put the TV on input 1 and select whatever source I wanted from the AVR. Audio goes from device to AVR to speakers, video goes from device to AVR to TV. When using devices connected to the TV or the TV's own built-in apps the TV would be selected to whatever I was using and the AVR would be set to the input the shARC connects to. Audio goes from device to TV to shARC to AVR, video goes from device to TV. If you were to set the TV to the AVR input while the AVR was set to the shARC input you might create a feedback loop if anything interpreted the handshaking as audio, I'd probably avoid doing that with the volume turned up.
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Jul 13, 2021 22:31
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I phrased this poorly. The limitation of the sharc is that, since it doesn't passthrough video, you need to connect your AMP to your TV with two HDMI cables (one for the sharc and one for video) if you want to also use devices that are connected directly to your AMP. I have three devices that need to be plugged into the TV directly so it didn't work for me.
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Jul 13, 2021 22:59
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I. M. Gei posted:
Just out of curiosity, what model year is your dad's OLED? Are we talking 1-2 years old, or 5?
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Jul 14, 2021 05:08
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Gotta get that 8k so we can watch Fox News pandemic coverage 24/7. [edit: sorry, CNN/MSNBC] Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jul 14, 2021 |
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Jul 14, 2021 05:30
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Ubiquitus posted:3.1 with wireless subs sounds like a happy medium, 5.1 moving above $500 doesn’t sound like a direction I want to go atm I recently bought the Klipsch Cinema 600 3.1 Sound Bar based on flicking through rtings reviews and lists and have been pretty happy with it. My one only real complaint is that it doesn't step volume up 0-100 by +1 intervals and instead goes from 0-100 in 21 (or 27, I can't remember off hand) steps so depending on your preferred listening volume you may have to get fiddly with it. But that is an extremely minor gripe over all and only ever comes up when I want to dial in a volume just above "quiet" for the space I have it in.
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Jul 14, 2021 05:35
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Incessant Excess posted:I phrased this poorly. The limitation of the sharc is that, since it doesn't passthrough video, you need to connect your AMP to your TV with two HDMI cables (one for the sharc and one for video) if you want to also use devices that are connected directly to your AMP. I have three devices that need to be plugged into the TV directly so it didn't work for me. Yeah, it does require an additional port be available at both ends. They do have this counterpart device intended for feeding a second audio system, but I think it could be used for your scenario as well. https://www.thenaudio.com/product/zone-2-earc-audio-processor/
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Jul 14, 2021 06:39
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I got this open box from Best Buy during last black Friday for $250. https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-v4a/index.html At some point spending all this money on external solutions will end with you eventually getting a new receiver (trust me, I've tried to keep my beast for as long as I could).
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Jul 14, 2021 19:34
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Number_6 posted:Just out of curiosity, what model year is your dad's OLED? Are we talking 1-2 years old, or 5?
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Jul 15, 2021 04:52
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Number_6 posted:Just out of curiosity, what model year is your dad's OLED? Are we talking 1-2 years old, or 5? It’s just over 2 years old now. We got it in May 2019 when prices were low, right before that year’s new models came out. We actually got two of them, one for him in our den and one for me in my bedroom. Both are the same model and size. His is the only one with burn-in that I’ve noticed; as far as I can tell mine doesn’t have any. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 07:35
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Anyone have experience with CEVA shipping? My TV has been "delayed in transit" for three days now. It left a facility in OH on the 12th and presumably should have arrived at another one by now right? Hoping this PoS didn't get lost or stolen.
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Jul 15, 2021 19:36
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Lil Swamp Booger Baby posted:Anyone have experience with CEVA shipping? My TV has been "delayed in transit" for three days now. It left a facility in OH on the 12th and presumably should have arrived at another one by now right? Hoping this PoS didn't get lost or stolen. I used them about 13 years ago. Pretty standard 3rd party shipper. That's to say they won't steal your TV, but I hope it arrives in 1 piece. Shipping in general is hosed right now so it'll get there. Most things get delayed.
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Jul 15, 2021 19:44
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I've got a C1 and an Xbox Series X and PS5. I recently moved and my only HDMI cables are all old as hell and don't support 4K/120hz. Is there a thread recommended set of HDMI cables that support all the newest stuff? I checked Monoprice but there are about 100 different varieties and I'm not sure which to get. Figured I'd buy a bunch and just be set for a while. I think I need the 48Gbps ones, I need about 7, for the stuff in my living room as well.
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Jul 15, 2021 22:32
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Biodome posted:I've got a C1 and an Xbox Series X and PS5. I recently moved and my only HDMI cables are all old as hell and don't support 4K/120hz. Is there a thread recommended set of HDMI cables that support all the newest stuff? I checked Monoprice but there are about 100 different varieties and I'm not sure which to get. Figured I'd buy a bunch and just be set for a while. There's a certification program for HDMI 2.1 cables, as long as you get a certified one you should be fine.
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Jul 15, 2021 22:43
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When I tried to buy one, monoprice was out and no cables at the time were certrified, so I just got this from Amazon for my PC and it works as expected, with 4k120 and VRR. Also the PS5 cable that came with it should support full speed HDMI 2.1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GS6SPCS
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Jul 15, 2021 22:45
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https://www.cnet.com/tech/home-entertainment/lgs-rollable-oled-tv-on-sale-in-us-for-a-whopping-100000/
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Jul 16, 2021 23:26
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Hey all I just bought a C1, but won't have time to set it up until tomorrow night. My question is this though: I heard the built in audio is really good on it, to the point where it might be better than my Sonos Playbase? Is that true? I'd love to not have to deal with a sound bar.
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Jul 17, 2021 03:49
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Fixins posted:Hey all I just bought a C1, but won't have time to set it up until tomorrow night. My question is this though: I heard the built in audio is really good on it, to the point where it might be better than my Sonos Playbase? Is that true? I'd love to not have to deal with a sound bar. I would be very surprised if that was the case because the built in speakers on my CX are the worst Ive ever heard on a TV. They are like phone speakers Possible that they improved them though, but for me external speakers were 100% necessary
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Jul 17, 2021 06:58
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Fixins posted:Hey all I just bought a C1, but won't have time to set it up until tomorrow night. My question is this though: I heard the built in audio is really good on it, to the point where it might be better than my Sonos Playbase? Is that true? I'd love to not have to deal with a sound bar. If you set them to cinema they are good. If set to AI as is the defaut they are awful.
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Jul 17, 2021 14:06
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That's sweet; so definitely worth trying. I guess the big difference is the tv has Dolby Atmos and my soundbase doesn't
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Jul 17, 2021 15:14
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Fixins posted:That's sweet; so definitely worth trying. I guess the big difference is the tv has Dolby Atmos and my soundbase doesn't This is meaningless for built in speakers. Use your Sonos.
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Jul 17, 2021 15:41
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Fixins posted:That's sweet; so definitely worth trying. I guess the big difference is the tv has Dolby Atmos and my soundbase doesn't You are 100% not going to get anything beneficial from an Atmos signal going out of a tv speaker. I know some models of TV's have "better" internal speakers than others but I can't imagine a single one that is going to have better output than even a merely ok set of external speakers.
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Jul 17, 2021 15:49
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Ok lol thanks goons
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Jul 17, 2021 18:40
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I have a Samsung M4500 TV, and today I noticed the infrared sensor below the TV was blinking off and on like crazy. I opened the battery compartment and noticed one of the batteries was corroded and some of the acid had leaked out. I took the batteries out and cleaned the spill as best I could. I put fresh batteries in and it started to do the same thing. The TV can turn on with the controller button underneath, so the TV itself seems fine. Do I need a new remote, or is there something I should try first? I'm wondering if some of the battery acid escaped the compartment and got onto the circuit board and messed it up.
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Jul 17, 2021 19:23
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Flyinglemur posted:Not sure which thread to put this in but I happened upon this yesterday while I was shopping for TVs.
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Jul 18, 2021 16:26
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Detective Thompson posted:I have a Samsung M4500 TV, and today I noticed the infrared sensor below the TV was blinking off and on like crazy. I opened the battery compartment and noticed one of the batteries was corroded and some of the acid had leaked out. I took the batteries out and cleaned the spill as best I could. I put fresh batteries in and it started to do the same thing. The TV can turn on with the controller button underneath, so the TV itself seems fine. Do I need a new remote, or is there something I should try first? I'm wondering if some of the battery acid escaped the compartment and got onto the circuit board and messed it up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N5JGRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J3M3DF5H3AG7Y18JD1PF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 A new remote is like $10. You can try opening up the compartment and using a pencil eraser to remove the corrosion but that seems like a lot of effort when you could order a new one and be done
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Jul 18, 2021 23:15
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Detective Thompson posted:I have a Samsung M4500 TV, and today I noticed the infrared sensor below the TV was blinking off and on like crazy. I opened the battery compartment and noticed one of the batteries was corroded and some of the acid had leaked out. I took the batteries out and cleaned the spill as best I could. I put fresh batteries in and it started to do the same thing. The TV can turn on with the controller button underneath, so the TV itself seems fine. Do I need a new remote, or is there something I should try first? I'm wondering if some of the battery acid escaped the compartment and got onto the circuit board and messed it up. A small amount of methylated spirits on a cloth/earbud can be used to clean the contacts on the remote.
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Jul 20, 2021 15:57
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We're thinking of moving my 40" Sony from 2010 up into the den and getting a new TV to replace it. I was looking at some calculators and because the room where our TV is in is like 12 feet wide, apparently I "should" get like a 65" TV? Is that accurate? I don't think we have any 4k/UHD content (unless blu-rays count). We play discs on a PS3 Slim and stream regular Netflix via a Chromecast with Google TV. I was hoping to get by with a 50" max. Would we really notice that much of a difference between 50" and 60+?
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Jul 22, 2021 01:02
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