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What about at a KFC toilet? Does it have to be our home plumbing?
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Jul 16, 2021 00:31
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SpartanIvy posted:My girlfriend is telling me I can't flush even a single piece of fried chicken down the toilet even though I just had all my cast iron replaced with PVC There was a serial killer who literally claimed the body he flushed down the toilet bit by bit had been KFC when it backed up his toilet. Though to be fair, KFC backs up my pipes as surely as it'll back up yours.
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Jul 16, 2021 02:22
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SpartanIvy posted:My girlfriend is telling me I can't flush even a single piece of fried chicken down the toilet even though I just had all my cast iron replaced with PVC Did you show her the gang tag? That might change her mind.
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Jul 16, 2021 02:26
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H110Hawk posted:What about at a KFC toilet? Does it have to be our home plumbing?  this is genius. Evil genius.
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Jul 16, 2021 12:57
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While it certainly wouldn't be the worst thing done by an American overseas, I probably should not be flushing chickens down toilets while I'm in the country on a diplomatic visa? Someone please talk me out of trying it, I really want that gang tag.
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Jul 16, 2021 13:02
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BonerGhost posted:While it certainly wouldn't be the worst thing done by an American overseas, I probably should not be flushing chickens down toilets while I'm in the country on a diplomatic visa? Someone please talk me out of trying it, I really want that gang tag. If movies have taught me anything, you have diplomatic immunity and can get away with murdering toilets
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Jul 16, 2021 14:51
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H110Hawk posted:What about at a KFC toilet? Does it have to be our home plumbing? No, it needs to be your toilet. Don't pass this BS on to some person making minimum wage just trying to earn a living.
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Jul 16, 2021 15:48
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Do any of the toilet makers have a will it flush YouTube series, like the will it blend guys? Maybe a company that makes the garbage disposal toilets used in jails.
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Jul 16, 2021 20:58
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Guy Axlerod posted:Do any of the toilet makers have a will it flush YouTube series, like the will it blend guys? Maybe a company that makes the garbage disposal toilets used in jails. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Tk1I0u0SVs
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Jul 16, 2021 21:17
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Jerk McJerkface posted:No, it needs to be your toilet. Don't pass this BS on to some person making minimum wage just trying to earn a living. One exception: if you work in a KFC you can do it specifically at the one you’re working in.
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Jul 16, 2021 21:25
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Guy Axlerod posted:Do any of the toilet makers have a will it flush YouTube series, like the will it blend guys? Maybe a company that makes the garbage disposal toilets used in jails. I have this toilet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xxXojKF508
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Jul 17, 2021 03:07
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PainterofCrap posted:I have this toilet: You can DO IT!
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Jul 17, 2021 03:51
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I have an old (like 80+ years) utility sink in the basement. The po disconnected the water to the sink, but I don't know if the drain is still tied into the sewer lateral. I want to remove the sink so I can have some more shop space. 1) How can I tell if the drain pipe is still connected to the sewer lateral? 2) if it is connected how can I remove the sink and block off the pipe? 3) if it isn't connected how can I remove the sink and block off the pipe? The plumbing is all metal, no pvc
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Jul 17, 2021 17:21
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Someone here might find this useful or just interesting: For decades we have fought a iron bacteria infection in our well. Every year we would bleach/shock it, only to have the infection return. This year I am finally trying out a product from NZ called Bore Saver Ultra-C. I found it 5 years ago researching, but have only now got the house empty for a week to attempt this treatment. It's based on 95% oxalic acid (what makes green plants like cucumbers and rhubarb bitter) and is NSF certified. I followed instructions provided for a simple pump cycle treatment and got feedback from our well drillers/supply house before performing this treatment. I would have preferred a brush/surge treatment, but that is out of scope for a home owner. Here's what our pipes and filter housings look like before starting.   I forgot to remove the filter on the left before starting treatment - it quickly clogged. The bag filter on the right is for our house. It's only 2 weeks old and already covered in iron slime.  Our well is 156ft deep with a 102ft water line. Leaving 54ft of water column. It has a 1hp Stainless Steel well submersible pump set at 140ft. The included instructions provide a chart for how much product to add to your well. In my case it was 30lb for a severe infection treatment.  The first step is to dump the measured amount of product down the 6" casement. I had to lift my well cap and support it accomplish this.  You then cycle the well back into itself for 8-12 hours. I chose the longer time. Green means it's working, converting the iron.  I ran each tap until it turned green and then let it sit for 8 hours.  Throughout the process I've measured the pH. We started at 7.2pH which is neutral and the basis for a good tasting tap water.  In the peak of treatment (12 hours) it dipped all the way down to 2.0pH, or the equivalent of lemon juice.  After several hours of flushing, we're back to 5.5pH and climbing. Reference: strong black coffee  I measured my neighbors to find his pH at 6.5, down from 7.1. I am thinking due to our close proximity and his well only being ~75ft deeper that some of the treatment has made its way to his system. He is aware and uses a water delivery service for his drinking water. I did notify all my neighbors within a close proximity before starting. No one wants to be responsible for poisoning the water. Nice clear water:  I forgot to do a 5gal bucket test before treatment - but it was never that bad. Less than a minute. The test I just ran did it in 18 seconds, pump only (no pressure tank connected).  Tonight I will add bleach to disinfect the well and again run it until each tap smells of bleach. 24 hours later I will flush the well again. Overall this is a 3 day process without water, so hopefully it is worth the effort. the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 01:14
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Very interesting
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Jul 18, 2021 13:17
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Super interested to hear how this work out long term. We've got a lot of wells in this area with that problem, including one on my other property.
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Jul 18, 2021 16:34
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FISHMANPET posted:Nothing in this drat house is easy. After way too many trips to way too many stores, I finally got this. And of course I ended up buying way more stuff than I needed. I got the old nipple out of the old spout, and it was threaded the same on each end. But it was a weird length, 4 3/8 inches, and I'd noticed that when I screwed and unscrewed the spout it wasn't at a perfect 90 degree angle to the wall (whereas the store bought 5 inch nipple I bought was). Looking closely at the pipe and the threads, I'm pretty sure someone custom threaded their own nipple to the perfect length for that spout, but didn't get it perfectly straight. The replacement spout I got wasn't the exact same size as the old spout, and also it didn't line up with the hole in the tub enclosure. So once I'd figured out what everything did, and happened to get a diverter repair kit at a local Ace (Home Depot and Menards didn't care them, just new spouts), I just took out the old diverter gate, filed away the minerals inside the spout, installed the new gate, teflon taped both ends of the old nipple, and put the old spout back in. Now I've got a spare tub spout and 5 inch brass nipple collecting dust in the basement, "just in case" I need them.
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Jul 19, 2021 17:12
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FISHMANPET posted:Now I've got a spare tub spout and 5 inch brass nipple collecting dust in the basement, "just in case" I need them. It begins. 
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Jul 20, 2021 03:03
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What would happen if I installed a 12" rough-in toilet in a bathroom with a 14" rough-in? I'm working with an annoyingly small bathroom that has a 14" rough in. And obviously all toilets on the market are only for 12". Would I just get a big gap where the back wall meets the tank?
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Jul 21, 2021 01:27
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melon cat posted:What would happen if I installed a 12" rough-in toilet in a bathroom with a 14" rough-in? I'm working with an annoyingly small bathroom that has a 14" rough in. And obviously all toilets on the market are only for 12". My understanding is yes. The rough in is the distance of the center of the sewer line to the wall and the toilets I've seen only mount to the pipe and flange. If there is some fancy toilet that connects to a wall you'd be in trouble.
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Jul 21, 2021 01:35
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melon cat posted:What would happen if I installed a 12" rough-in toilet in a bathroom with a 14" rough-in? I'm working with an annoyingly small bathroom that has a 14" rough in. And obviously all toilets on the market are only for 12". You can order a toilet with an offset mounting pattern, 14" is pretty standard. Your plumbing supply should be of service. I recommend Gerber brand
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Jul 21, 2021 04:12
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melon cat posted:
Yes. That's how all mine are, because I refuse to pay extra for 14" rough and my bathrooms have plenty of space. Upside is you can clean/paint behind the tank. I pulled toilets where the wall behind looks like a horror show of mold and decades old paint.
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Jul 21, 2021 16:17
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B-Nasty posted:Yes. That's how all mine are, because I refuse to pay extra for 14" rough and my bathrooms have plenty of space.
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Jul 22, 2021 02:57
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Thanks for the toilet tips. Unfortunately my supplier didn't have any offset-discharge models so I just went with a compact 12" two-piece. It should fit ok. But I just removed the old supply braided line and noticed a leak in the right angle shut off valve. So obviously I need to remove the baseboard trim, cut out this old right angle shut-off valve and replace it with new one. Problem is the copper piping is right up against the back wall. Which will make it annoying to access and cut out.  Top-down view with baseboards pulled out A few questions- 1) Is it better to extend this copper piping with PEX or copper? I want to extend and curve the supply pipeline further away from the rear wall so it isn't such a pain to work on in the future but I'm not sure of the best way to do it. I was thinking of adding a 45 degree copper elbow union, then adding on 3 inches of piping directing it AWAY from the wall, then add a new quarter-turn (compression) fitting at the end. So I guess what I want to know is- are there any drawbacks to transitioning copper to PEX A for this, or should I just stick with all copper piping through-and-through? Because this video points out one instance where 1/2" PEX is not acceptable for a tub spout and I'm wondering if a toilet supply line could run into the same problem if I add a small amount of PEX in a place where I'm not supposed to. 2) If I DO go the PEX A route- are expansion tools like this one only for stretching a PEX A to larger diameter like like 1/2" copper piping to 3/4" PEX A? Or can they also be used for joining 1/2" copper to 1/2" PEX A? tl;dr babbys first shut-off valve replacement and it is too drat close to a wall melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 16:23
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Motronic posted:Super interested to hear how this work out long term. We've got a lot of wells in this area with that problem, including one on my other property. It's only been three months but our AIO3 iron filter (hellenbrand but others make similar units) really seems to have solved our IRB/SRB problem.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:51
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brugroffil posted:It's only been three months but our AIO3 iron filter (hellenbrand but others make similar units) really seems to have solved our IRB/SRB problem. 3 months in the summertime is pretty good depending on how bad the well was......this sounds good so far.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:02
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SpartanIvy posted:My girlfriend is telling me I can't flush even a single piece of fried chicken down the toilet even though I just had all my cast iron replaced with PVC Remember the first rule of
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Jul 26, 2021 18:02
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I'm a new homeowner (yay!) and I'm trying to not fall into the $300 tools for $30 job trap (boo!). My tub has an old lever-type drain.  I'd like to change it out with a more modern drain type. I did find an internet how-to, but I'm a little hesitant. I've never done anything with plumbing. I've done other types of handy work though. Is this a beginner level project?
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Jul 26, 2021 20:39
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Motronic posted:3 months in the summertime is pretty good depending on how bad the well was......this sounds good so far. Our BART tests for both were right on the edge of the moderate/high amount. You can still smell is pretty strongly in our raw outdoor water when we've got a sprinkler running, but inside we no longer have any scent hot or cold and there's been no more rust staining. Our actual iron content was fairly low but the iron filter takes care of that easily now.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:53
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nashona posted:I'm a new homeowner (yay!) and I'm trying to not fall into the $300 tools for $30 job trap (boo!). I did a lot of research on this while trying to figure out how to get my drain out to clean it, and it should be pretty simple. In that guide they're using a cold chisel to turn out the old drain stopper body and a pliers to put the new one in, but there's a tool explicitly for that - It grabs onto the 4 poles of the stopper body and attaches to a ratchet or wrench I think. As a new homeowner, after renting for years and doing little stuff with not-quite-the-perfect-tool-for-the-job, let me tell you, you will not feel any more powerful than when you complete a job by using the absolute best tool for that job, and you will save yourself so much stress that getting the right tool is worth it, even if you only use it once. That article also calls out putting the gasket between the pipe and the tub, apparently a lot of people will just slap that gasket on top of the tub but it's supposed to go under the tub. I watched a Youtube video of a plumber explaining how to change the drain, and he just basically said "and now we'll slide our gasket in here" and it looks like he just sorta manhandled it with a screwdriver, not sure how difficult that step would be since I haven't attempted it, and there's no special tool for it.
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Jul 26, 2021 22:14
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FISHMANPET posted:I did a lot of research on this while trying to figure out how to get my drain out to clean it, and it should be pretty simple. In that guide they're using a cold chisel to turn out the old drain stopper body and a pliers to put the new one in, but there's a tool explicitly for that - It grabs onto the 4 poles of the stopper body and attaches to a ratchet or wrench I think. As a new homeowner, after renting for years and doing little stuff with not-quite-the-perfect-tool-for-the-job, let me tell you, you will not feel any more powerful than when you complete a job by using the absolute best tool for that job, and you will save yourself so much stress that getting the right tool is worth it, even if you only use it once. Is it something like this? 
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Jul 27, 2021 18:58
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Nope, that's for kitchen drains. You want this for tub drains: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Double-Ended-Tub-Drain-Wrench-16PL0128/304217585. The videos there show you how it works and how you use it.
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Jul 27, 2021 20:10
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Be careful not to overtighten your new drain with that tool. Cracking a cast iron tub because I thought tighter means less leaks was my first rookie homeowner mistake.
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Jul 27, 2021 21:46
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ah i read too quickly this morning.  It's a jacuzzi whirlpool tub but I'll keep that in mind! thx to you both
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Jul 28, 2021 01:03
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Hopefully no dumb questions here, but we have our electric dryer coming and so I'm taking off the flexible gas line the PO used. Do I need to apply opposing pressure on the line when loosening the flexible tube connection So the entire line doesn't torque?
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 29, 2021 03:45
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Yes, you'll want a wrench on the brass hex on the shutoff valve, and another on the aluminum nut of the flex pipe. If you are eliminating that line, you should shut off the gas, remove the shutoff valve and cap the end of the pipe with a nipple.
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Jul 29, 2021 04:42
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Would putting on just a threaded cap work if we might one day afford to buy and install a gas dryer?
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Jul 29, 2021 06:47
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PageMaster posted:Would putting on just a threaded cap work if we might one day afford to buy and install a gas dryer? Absolutely. Threaded cap, properly installed (yellow tape https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-in-x-260-in-Yellow-Thread-Sealing-PTFE-Plumber-s-Tape-31403D/202078116) and leave the valve shut off. No problem at all.
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Jul 29, 2021 06:57
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Motronic posted:Absolutely. Threaded cap, properly installed (yellow tape https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-in-x-260-in-Yellow-Thread-Sealing-PTFE-Plumber-s-Tape-31403D/202078116) and leave the valve shut off. No problem at all. What's the difference between the blue and yellow and whatever other colors are available?
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Jul 29, 2021 14:10
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Color-coding for what's in the pipe. Yellow=gas.
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Jul 29, 2021 14:54
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