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Trying out my first resin print w high-speed settings (240mm/min for all lifting), never a better time than “a birthday gift print just failed twice and now it’s the day of”. it’s going ok so far but the loud (by resin printer standards) knocking every time the build plate zips off the old battered FEP film was… concerning, at first. now it reassures me from another room that the print hasn’t failed yet.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:35
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Asking Printed Solid or any other vendor to "make right" bad prints from any filament just isn't where the hobby is yet. Especially if they aren't the manufacturer of the filament. Might as well buy Polaroid filament if you want that kind of filament support. https://www.polaroid3d.com/filament/ Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 00:29
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Asking Printed Solid or any other vendor to "make right" bad prints from any filament just isn't where the hobby is yet. I have some Kodak ABS filament. I bought it for a carbon fiber project but haven't had time for it yet.
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Jul 30, 2021 01:06
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  I'll be satisfied once it demonstrates it can do this consistently. So far, so good. My hope is that it'll work without uncertainty and fussing.
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Jul 30, 2021 01:17
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My Raise3D N2 is still a reliable workhorse today, and it's an old printer. It is showing its age, but it really still prints perfectly well. If the E2 is anywhere near as good, I'm sure you'll be fine!
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Jul 30, 2021 01:24
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That's encouraging news. I'm already impressed by how easy it was to go from unboxing to printing a usable part (where I already had an STL ready).
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Jul 30, 2021 02:12
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Asking Printed Solid or any other vendor to "make right" bad prints from any filament just isn't where the hobby is yet. FWIW, I’ve found that the Polaroid filament to look/print/feel identical to the Inland filament. Main difference is the cost, saving you a solid $22/kg buying the inland stuff.
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Jul 30, 2021 02:26
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Asking Printed Solid or any other vendor to "make right" bad prints from any filament just isn't where the hobby is yet. Printed Solid specifically manufactures Jessie pla in America and prides themselves on that fact. Also lol that you think I should just accept getting a bad product straight out of the box because it's a hobby.
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Jul 30, 2021 16:48
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I saved one of my resin printers yesterday with a plastic razorblade to scrape off a light layer of cured resin on my LCD. I thought I'd mention it here because I hadn't heard of a plastic razorblade until recently and it made a huge difference in getting the resin off.
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Jul 30, 2021 18:06
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InternetJunky posted:I saved one of my resin printers yesterday with a plastic razorblade to scrape off a light layer of cured resin on my LCD. I thought I'd mention it here because I hadn't heard of a plastic razorblade until recently and it made a huge difference in getting the resin off. Yeah seconding the plastic razor blade recommendation. I got them completely by accident when buying a traditional paint scraper and they worked pretty good when I punctured my FEP and got resin on my screen. They don't last long though, so buy a bunch. I think I used four of the ten I got cleaning my screen.
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Jul 30, 2021 18:21
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God dammit I'm gonna have to shave for this 3d scan to work cause it sees my beard as a gigantic block of jaw.
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Jul 31, 2021 04:34
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Deviant posted:Printed Solid specifically manufactures Jessie pla in America and prides themselves on that fact. That's new, for as long as I've been in the hobby Printed Solid was "just another reseller". As for bad product out of the box, LOL if you think any filament manufacturer is perfect 100% of the time. You will encounter random bad spools. Anyway, Tom is a madman and really having too much fun with his Voron. https://youtu.be/8O9E9rcH6Us
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Jul 31, 2021 04:54
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I've got a PNP NO inductive sensor from an old Printrbot simple metal (LJ12A3-4-Z/BY, but it's probably a BX since it lists input voltage as 6-36V instead of 10V) that I was thinking I could put on my Ender 3 with an upgraded BTT SKR E3 Turbo mainboard. I've looked around for guides but haven't found anything that uses my specific hardware, but I'm gathering that I'll need to do something with pullup/pulldown resistors, a transistor, or an optocoupler. Any recommendations?
TastyShrimpPlatter fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 05:22
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So ive got a problem with my ender 3 and im not sure wha the problem is. It used to print just fine but lately ive been having this happen in every print. I didnt print anything for a while, started again recently and i had to replace the extruder a bit ago, not sure if that has something to do with it or what.   
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Jul 31, 2021 06:02
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biracial bear for uncut posted:
and i expect the manufacturer to fuckin fix it when i do, why is this hard? you send me a bad product, you replace it. "it's a hobby" doesn't absolve them of selling garbage in exchange for money, and i will be buying from someone else in the future. anyway i left it in a heated drybox for 6 hours, we'll see if that helps any Deviant fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 15:47
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Filament seems like such a shell game of a business.
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Jul 31, 2021 18:37
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It looks like the sunlu filadryer s1 took about 2g or about 2mL of water off the roll in 6 hours. I have to assume that's liquid volume, so we'll see if it prints any better.
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Jul 31, 2021 18:41
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I've just installed a Sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro, added a spacer and re-homed, re-leveled my build plate and gone to do my first print. There's a terrible grinding sound when it goes down to do the first few layers. I'm almost certain this is the little flex plate tabs running into the curved side of my resin tank. What's my next course of action? I'm letting the resin drain off the plate right now. Push the tabs a bit further back on my build plate? Swap out my Elegoo tank for one of my Sovol tanks? Zodack fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 18:51
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What use cases are y'all using SLA for? For context, I'm sticking with filament since I want to be able to solvent-bond parts to injection-molded ABS parts. And it seems like the process for FDM is more hands-off and safer, at the cost of poorer-quality prints.
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Jul 31, 2021 19:24
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It would be nice to have one for higher precision mechanical parts like RC gearboxes and diffs and poo poo like that. Assuming you can get resin with ABS, PC or Nylon like properties. Then again, if you could, I'd probably be printing a lot more things with SLA.
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Jul 31, 2021 19:36
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Dominoes posted:What use cases are y'all using SLA for? For context, I'm sticking with filament since I want to be able to solvent-bond parts to injection-molded ABS parts. And it seems like the process for FDM is more hands-off and safer, at the cost of poorer-quality prints. When I want to print something mechanical, or do a design from scratch that needs a few iterations I do FDM for sure. But for art stuff that I'm going to paint, the results are just better with with SLA for what I do. (I mean I toally agree that resin is more work and has more safety reqs, it's sometimes annoying)
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Jul 31, 2021 19:57
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Zodack posted:I've just installed a Sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro, added a spacer and re-homed, re-leveled my build plate and gone to do my first print. I literally just installed a sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro this week. I haven't had a problem with grinding, the two small tabs just barely stick out from the edge of the plate (as opposed to the single giant tab on the previous flex plate I tried to use). I have been turning the tabs to the back of the flex plate as it looks like there's more room between the plate and the tank edge on that side despite the instructions saying to face them forward. You might also try re-zeroing and leveling your plate, the grinding noise might be the clutch engaging because it can't travel all the way to zero.
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Jul 31, 2021 19:59
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Bucnasti posted:
I might as well try. It didn't make any noises on my first attempt but it could have been a fluke
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Jul 31, 2021 20:19
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what do yall print to use up the last bits of rolls?
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Jul 31, 2021 20:58
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I made an ikea lack enclosure for my printer using the prusa design. It was fun to build but also the most expensive and time consuming thing I have ever made out of cardboard. I probably should have just bought a real enclosure but I think this will work fine.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:11
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Deviant posted:what do yall print to use up the last bits of rolls? potato chip bag clips https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609543
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Jul 31, 2021 21:12
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Combat Pretzel posted:It would be nice to have one for higher precision mechanical parts like RC gearboxes and diffs and poo poo like that. Assuming you can get resin with ABS, PC or Nylon like properties. Then again, if you could, I'd probably be printing a lot more things with SLA. You can get resins like that though... Zodack posted:I've just installed a Sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro, added a spacer and re-homed, re-leveled my build plate and gone to do my first print.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:48
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InternetJunky posted:I've had the overhanging tab catch a few times but I don't get the grinding sound (instead it finally snaps into place and shoots resin everywhere). Even if your machine is leveled nicely, make sure the build plate is fully parallel to the machine to give the tab maximum clearance, and then push the tab back as well so it doesn't stick out as much. I put in a spare, empty tank and ran my print and that is what it was - the metal tabs were scraping down the side of the tank, actually pulling off a tiny bit of the black paint(?). I moved my tank a bit forward, re-leveled the plate and put the flex plate on just a tad backwards and it seems like things are fine. Awkwardly the FEP on my empty tank now was blackish sediment on it from the scrapes, but it was a spare, so I can worry about that later. The fully parallel part was an absolute. What's the order on that - home, tighten front bolt, test paper friction, move plate up, tighten side bolt? Seems like that did it for me and didn't mess the plate up too much in the process.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:53
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Zodack posted:Awkwardly the FEP on my empty tank now was blackish sediment on it from the scrapes, but it was a spare, so I can worry about that later. quote:The fully parallel part was an absolute. What's the order on that - home, tighten front bolt, test paper friction, move plate up, tighten side bolt? Seems like that did it for me and didn't mess the plate up too much in the process.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:59
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Sagebrush posted:potato chip bag clips generally not great if you're trying to use up the last bits of a pla roll, though
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Jul 31, 2021 23:00
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Zodack posted:I've just installed a Sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro, added a spacer and re-homed, re-leveled my build plate and gone to do my first print. You have the vat in backwards.
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Jul 31, 2021 23:12
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Starting my Prusa assembly with the Y axis, which was hell but I'm glad I'm getting to it. My Y-axis is complete, but it makes this awful noise when moved: https://i.imgur.com/DQVdjKL.mp4 Singled it out as the bearings making the noise, but I'm not sure what to do? Read up online and tried things like applying fresh lube to the bars and making sure the mounting brackets weren't too tight, but that didn't work. I'd also believe the stock nameless lube could probably be ditched for something like SuperLube, but I gotta go buy some first. I remember in reviews people were raving about how this thing makes very little noise, so this is kind of disappointing if I can't fix it. Putty fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 23:46
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Get new linear bearings on AliExpress. LM8UU or whatever they're called. They're cheap as gently caress. Or if you're fancy, get those "drylin" bushings from Igus. --edit: Oh wait, this is a completely new Prusa. I guess they gave you a dud. The drylin stuff seems to be a recommended upgrade, anyway. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Aug 1, 2021 |
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Aug 1, 2021 00:41
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Putty posted:Singled it out as the bearings making the noise, but I'm not sure what to do? Read up online and tried things like applying fresh lube to the bars and making sure the mounting brackets weren't too tight, but that didn't work. I'd also believe the stock nameless lube could probably be ditched for something like SuperLube, but I gotta go buy some first. I remember in reviews people were raving about how this thing makes very little noise, so this is kind of disappointing if I can't fix it. Also, if you aren't doing it already, use the online manual; there are a couple of steps where the comments are exceptionally helpful.
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Aug 1, 2021 00:57
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Putty posted:My Y-axis is complete, but it makes this awful noise when moved: The machine doesn't make that sound when it's fully assembled. You're just hearing it ringing because right now it has no mass on the axis to dampen the vibrations. It will be much quieter. As long as it moves smoothly without any grinding sensations or noises, you're fine.
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Aug 1, 2021 01:15
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asterioth posted:So ive got a problem with my ender 3 and im not sure wha the problem is. It used to print just fine but lately ive been having this happen in every print. I didnt print anything for a while, started again recently and i had to replace the extruder a bit ago, not sure if that has something to do with it or what. I'd check your extruder e-steps for overextrustion but also consider a new nozzle, sometimes that works wonders for degraded print quality. Just don't burn yourself, they are hot. This guy's video pertains to switching it but he's also got a video about making sure the PTFE tube in the hotend is seated properly (it can back out over time): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30qqKUwviww
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Aug 1, 2021 01:17
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TheLastManStanding posted:It makes WAY less noise once the whole machine is put together. I too thought something must be wrong until I checked the comments on the online manual. Sagebrush posted:The machine doesn't make that sound when it's fully assembled. You're just hearing it ringing because right now it has no mass on the axis to dampen the vibrations. It will be much quieter. Thank you! Will proceed normally then. I'm half using the physical manual and half online cause some of these images are really hard to see. Combat Pretzel posted:--edit: Oh wait, this is a completely new Prusa. I guess they gave you a dud. The drylin stuff seems to be a recommended upgrade, anyway. Also gonna keep this in mind.
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Aug 1, 2021 01:41
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Rexxed posted:I'd check your extruder e-steps for overextrustion but also consider a new nozzle, sometimes that works wonders for degraded print quality. Just don't burn yourself, they are hot. This guy's video pertains to switching it but he's also got a video about making sure the PTFE tube in the hotend is seated properly (it can back out over time): I changed the nozzle and it seemed to help a small amount but nothing major, i thought the ptfe tube was seated properly but ill reseat it again later and see if that helps. I'll have to figure out how to check and mess with the e-steps later, im wondering if thats it since its a different extruder than the stock one. Thank you!
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Aug 1, 2021 02:27
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asterioth posted:I changed the nozzle and it seemed to help a small amount but nothing major, i thought the ptfe tube was seated properly but ill reseat it again later and see if that helps. I'll have to figure out how to check and mess with the e-steps later, im wondering if thats it since its a different extruder than the stock one. Thank you! You basically pop the bowden tube off the extruder, mark some filament before the extruder, and command the extruder motor to move 100mm, then measure how much it put out and adjust. There's a lot of instructions online for dialing in the amount you need if there's an e-step adjustment needed. The firmware will prevent you from extruding if the hotend isn't over 150C or something (maybe 170?) so you'll have to heat up the hotend but you're not actually sending the filament to the hotend to measure it.
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Aug 1, 2021 04:19
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Rexxed posted:You basically pop the bowden tube off the extruder, mark some filament before the extruder, and command the extruder motor to move 100mm, then measure how much it put out and adjust. There's a lot of instructions online for dialing in the amount you need if there's an e-step adjustment needed. The firmware will prevent you from extruding if the hotend isn't over 150C or something (maybe 170?) so you'll have to heat up the hotend but you're not actually sending the filament to the hotend to measure it. Yeah, was reading about that. I'll have to do that later, dont have any calipers to measure with. Decided to swap the extruder gear back to the one that came stock and it seems like its working for now, printing a vase to see how it turns out.
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Aug 1, 2021 04:33
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