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Nerd guy from that meme: noooo you can't set dynos it's not real climbing Chad beard guy: I like to go up
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Sep 14, 2021 23:07
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Apparently I'm a boulder bro now. I'm only allowed to wear vests. Must get more tattoos
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Sep 15, 2021 08:24
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Salisbury Snape posted:Apparently I'm a boulder bro now. I'm only allowed to wear vests. You'll also need to wrap every joint in your body with climbing tape and drag a hippo skip full of chalk around everywhere you go. Welcome.
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Sep 15, 2021 18:37
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Lmao. I bought a bag when gym first opened not knowing I'd boulder 99.99% of the time there and I've been wanting to buy a big ol' chalk bucket for the longest time, but I just can't justify spending $30+ or whatever on one.
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Sep 15, 2021 18:44
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I just get chalk out of the plastic bag it came in, works pretty well
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Sep 15, 2021 19:23
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Sab669 posted:Lmao. Buy an organic one, well worth it IMO and itll last forever
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Sep 15, 2021 19:27
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I suppose I could justify it as a birthday gift for myself  Even gonna spring for the Deluxe one with all the pockets because I hate leaving my keys/wallet/phone with my flip flops in a cubby.
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Sep 15, 2021 19:55
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I've got a big ol' bag of chalk for bouldering but apparently it's different to the little bag of chalk we use for lead/top?? Idk Apparently I'm doing it right though, I come out of every boulder session covered in chalk from head to toe.
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Sep 15, 2021 22:08
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my gym has basically permanently swapped to liquid chalk and while it kinda sucks on 5% of problems where i want chalk half way through, the air is noticeably cleaner
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Sep 15, 2021 22:53
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Ubiquitus posted:Buy an organic one, well worth it IMO and itll last forever There are organic chalk buckets and it actually makes a difference?
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Sep 15, 2021 23:25
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asur posted:There are organic chalk buckets and it actually makes a difference? If Im being trolled  If not here you go: https://organicclimbing.com/
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Sep 15, 2021 23:41
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Ubiquitus posted:If Im being trolled This makes way more sense than what I was imagining.
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Sep 16, 2021 00:48
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I only buy grass-fed, free range chalk bags. And no growth hormones either.
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Sep 16, 2021 01:45
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I only buy organic chalk, no MgCO3 for me
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Sep 16, 2021 01:50
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I only go to gyms with vegan climbing holds, 100% natural only for me
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Sep 16, 2021 02:18
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Verviticus posted:my gym has basically permanently swapped to liquid chalk and while it kinda sucks on 5% of problems where i want chalk half way through, the air is noticeably cleaner Never have used liquid chalk but I feel like I could get behind this.
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Sep 16, 2021 02:35
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spwrozek posted:Never have used liquid chalk but I feel like I could get behind this. My gym also went all liquid chalk last year, though sometime this year they also started allowing the chalk sock/balls in your chalk bag. The air was noticably better with the all liquid chalk. Turns out, when I'm not breathing in chalk all the time my occasional asthma symptoms don't happen! I still think it is better with the chalk balls and liquid chalk now but seems worse than all liquid. But I am happy to have some chalk available mid-climb now. Unfortunately, kind of hard to enforce the chalk ball requirement so they basically don't enforce it.
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Sep 16, 2021 05:30
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I never really understood why people used loose chalk over chalk balls, it seems to just waste a load of chalk and ensure that you have to blow / dust a ton off your hands.
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Sep 16, 2021 08:59
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RabidWeasel posted:I never really understood why people used loose chalk over chalk balls, it seems to just waste a load of chalk and ensure that you have to blow / dust a ton off your hands. I don't get it either, reaching down to my sack and giving the ball a little squeeze always seems to dispense just the right amount of white stuff to make my hands nice and sticky
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Sep 16, 2021 18:13
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alnilam posted:I don't get it either, reaching down to my sack and giving the ball a little squeeze always seems to dispense just the right amount of white stuff to make my hands nice and sticky 
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Sep 16, 2021 21:59
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Verviticus posted:my gym has basically permanently swapped to liquid chalk and while it kinda sucks on 5% of problems where i want chalk half way through, the air is noticeably cleaner My gym sort of did that. But then they brought back their own chalk bins and they put a cover on them and there's 2 holes in a plexiglass to get loose chalk. You cannot use your own anymore. They have been wanting to do that for a while to improve the air quality for the employees and it works really well. I'd say 90% improvement in the amount of chalk you see in the air. It even allowed them to remove one or two of the big chalk eater they had. I completely hated the liquid chalk only policy because I don't feel like liquid chalk works as well and the holds somehow became wayyyy more slippery after a while than when people use normal chalk and brushing didn't seem to help as much. It's like if the chalk was getting deep in the holds or something. It got to the point where some problem that felt easy on the first few days after they were set felt 2 full grades harder by the time they got removed. Anything involving big slopers in particular was just horrible. I'd rather have my own chalk bag, but I'm ok with using the big bins if it means their employees don't have to breath chalk all day. alnilam posted:I don't get it either, reaching down to my sack and giving the ball a little squeeze always seems to dispense just the right amount of white stuff to make my hands nice and sticky There's just something magical about putting both of your hands deep into your chalk bucket, overchalking your hands and then slapping them together like an rear end in a top hat. Squeezing a little ball repeatedly just doesn't scratch the itch. Sab669 posted:I suppose I could justify it as a birthday gift for myself That's what I enjoyed the most about my chalk bucket. I could keep all my poo poo in there including a skin file, nail clippers, etc. But now I just carry a gym bag around with me like. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Sep 17, 2021 |
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Sep 17, 2021 02:00
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KingColliwog posted:I completely hated the liquid chalk only policy because I don't feel like liquid chalk works as well and the holds somehow became wayyyy more slippery after a while than when people use normal chalk and brushing didn't seem to help as much. It's like if the chalk was getting deep in the holds or something. It got to the point where some problem that felt easy on the first few days after they were set felt 2 full grades harder by the time they got removed. Anything involving big slopers in particular was just horrible. Liquid chalk frequently uses resin as a binding agent, which makes holds feel glassy really quickly, supposedly. That happened at my gym too, but it's gotten better as people have backed off the liquid chalk.
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Sep 17, 2021 02:11
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M. Night Skymall posted:Liquid chalk frequently uses resin as a binding agent, which makes holds feel glassy really quickly, supposedly. That happened at my gym too, but it's gotten better as people have backed off the liquid chalk. dang, that stinks! I found liquid chalk worked really well for me, it stuck to my hands well and I've never liked chalk balls. But it's not worth messing up the holds for everyone else; I'll switch back to the ball
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Sep 17, 2021 02:28
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Tippecanoe posted:dang, that stinks! I found liquid chalk worked really well for me, it stuck to my hands well and I've never liked chalk balls. But it's not worth messing up the holds for everyone else; I'll switch back to the ball I'm sure you can find one now that doesn't have resin, just have to look at the ingredients. It was more of a specialty product before the pandemic. I don't like liquid chalk, I have pretty dry hands and by the time I get an even coating of chalk on my hands from liquid chalk I have way more chalk on there than I would use normally.
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Sep 17, 2021 02:41
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I'm watching this video about coordination dynos  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOcybemmTms
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Sep 18, 2021 04:52
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I'm watching this video about coordination dynos this is sick. this is hosed. im feeling ill and i want to vomit. i am mad and shaking and i cant think straight. you're hosed up.
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Sep 18, 2021 06:29
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First outdoor climb done  
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Sep 18, 2021 11:28
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Salisbury Snape posted:First outdoor climb done Woohoo! Congratulations  Looks like a nice little line up the left side there. Are there other bolts on the face? I can't make any out in the pic but it looks like there are probably a few other lines there.
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Sep 18, 2021 14:16
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Five routes bolted on that face, then four more bolted around the right hand side. There is a ravine around the corner with some 50m routes and also other routes dotted around the edge of the town. We started off on a 3c and a 4b then moved onto the 5b on that face. Everything was 100% more difficult because of the 30°c heat but was soo worth it. When we get back to England (specifically home in Cornwall) we are mostly confident about hitting some of the outdoor climbs on the cliffs.
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Sep 18, 2021 17:15
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I'm watching this video about coordination dynos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT8oQPeJQts
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Sep 18, 2021 19:39
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I'm watching this video about coordination dynos My problem with coordination dynos is that I have no coordination
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Sep 19, 2021 06:08
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Sab669 posted:I was just looking at random photos of a climb out in red rock and I found this: Beats the Nalgene of explosive diarrhea that covered all of Epinephrine last year Speaking of Red Rock - I live 10 minutes from the gate if anyone is coming into town and wants to sport climb . I can only lead at 5.9 outside but I can hella belay someones project.
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Sep 19, 2021 15:14
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Salisbury Snape posted:Five routes bolted on that face, then four more bolted around the right hand side. UKC is your friend! Filter by sport climbing routes and go wild. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/?q=CORNWALL&x=-5.048&y=50.265&z=10 Then find yourself a friend with a trad rack and get involved with Commando Ridge at Bosigran next spring, before the grockles arrive. Have been in Switzerland. Climbed the via ferrata that goes up the rock ridge in the right hand foreground, the snow and rock ridge next to it which leads to the Allalinhorn, and the easy way up the back of the jagged peak in the middle called the Rimpfischorn. I'll have to go back for the jagged ridge because it looks amazing fun. The peak on the left I'll probably save for an ascent on skis because schlepping 5km along a glacier in summer is just a bit too much like hard work. 
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Sep 19, 2021 18:05
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Endjinneer posted:UKC is your friend! Filter by sport climbing routes and go wild. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/?q=CORNWALL&x=-5.048&y=50.265&z=10 My buddy has full trad gear, Bosigran is on our radar for when we get home since it's within pissing distance from us. There is climbing everywhere for us in Cornwall and nothing is more than an hours drive or so. Another month or so of reasonable weather and trmhen it's back to the gym for the winter
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Sep 19, 2021 19:07
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Parappa the Dapper posted:Beats the Nalgene of explosive diarrhea that covered all of Epinephrine last year Was it this guy? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dJLN43G6KA
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Sep 20, 2021 21:26
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Would love it if any one of you guys have some ideas for this problem that has been shutting me down hard for a good few sessions lately - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNMmkVzPHBo The first few moves are kinda hard, then the middle of the problem is actually quite easy, all good holds just powerful moves, but transitioning up "out" of the cave is absurdly hard and I have no idea how to make it easier. Even if I climb up an adjacent V1 that's just out of frame and settle into that position I can't even do that 1 move in isolation. I tried toe hooking that lower left hold with my left foot after I match the upper hold like so;  But it's absolutely no good at all. This problem has been shutting down lots of people it seems, the few people who I have talked to who have done it are also crazy strong and haven't been able to offer too much direction unfortunately.
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Sep 21, 2021 13:53
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I think the beta you tried in the video looks fine, you just need to get a bit more explosive power from your leg in order to reach the hold before your body starts sinking. You could also try right toe pulling into the hold on the right and left pushing off the foot you've tried to toe hook to generate power
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Sep 21, 2021 14:50
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I have tried to sorta bicycle it, doesn't feel especially great. My foot is actually flat on on a wall perpendicular to me, but it's just far enough away that I can't really sink into it to help explode off that. I'll try experimenting with that more though. Took me a long time to get through just the first section up to that big left handed cross over, but then I cruised through the middle and have been stuck on that move at the end. It's just good enough that I can hang out for a bit on it, but bad enough that as soon as I gotta go off it I'm dead
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Sep 21, 2021 15:33
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Sab669 posted:Would love it if any one of you guys have some ideas for this problem that has been shutting me down hard for a good few sessions lately - Are you tall enough to press down hard with left foot as you go up for the hold?  That may give you a bit more stability as you maneuver your body? (I'm also super bad at reading beta so what I'm saying may be dumb)
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Sep 21, 2021 18:01
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I did see a woman do that move quite a bit more statically, but I didn't catch if she was taller than I am lol.
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Sep 21, 2021 18:32
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