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CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

pseudorandom posted:

I have almost no need for a miter saw, but I don't have one, so obviously I want to get one. This is tempting.

This Harbor Freight one is less than half the price.

I used it for installing flooring and cutting 1/4 round when I first moved in and now have used it for small projects for the past 2 years. It takes really consistent cuts. I was constantly switching from between 0, +45° and -45° which it does super fast. The stops/side supports can be a little annoying to pull out at times but other than that its been a great saw.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Sep 13, 2021

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Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!
I want to get a bench grinder and replace one of the wheels so I can use that side to polish things. This will see very low duty, and I guess I'm really just asking if there is anything I should be looking out for, like "get an 8-inch not a 6-inch" (or vice versa) or "don't forget new spindles for the polishing wheel". I'm perfectly happy with a cheap option considering it will get used only a handful of times a year, but I know nothing about them and don't want to get something that will just infuriate me.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost
Whats the vibe on 10" vs 12" miters? Ive heard 12" can lead to less precise cuts because of blade wobble

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


lil poopendorfer posted:

Whats the vibe on 10" vs 12" miters? Ive heard 12" can lead to less precise cuts because of blade wobble

I have a 12" and for 2x4 /2x6 type stuff it's not a factor in my somewhat limited experience. For like finish carpentry /cabinet facing stuff it's usually also good enough but if I want to go more precise than that I'd be using a crosscut sled on a tablesaw anyway.

Partycat
Oct 25, 2004

+1 on the WEN 2305 rotary tool advised elsewhere in this thread. Harbor Freight didn't appear to have anything directly comparable, so I'd ordered this from Amazon. Used it for some cutting and sanding already and it's been exactly what I needed for $22. I'm not sure if it will have longevity, but if it survives this job it will be a great value over Dremel's pricing. Like others had said in the reviews, the flex shaft didn't have much lubrication. Seems simple enough to wipe it down with some basic utility grease. It didn't seem necessary to pump the whole shaft full.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
Listed for $600 locally, includes everything, but someone else is looking at it right now :f5:. Hopefully the potential buyer is an unserious tire-kicker and passes on it.

This will either be the one that got away, or the greatest get I will ever get on a used tool.




Includes saw, cabinet, mobile base, original wings, etc. Router table and lift is priced separately, at $400.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Partycat posted:

+1 on the WEN 2305 rotary tool advised elsewhere in this thread. Harbor Freight didn't appear to have anything directly comparable, so I'd ordered this from Amazon. Used it for some cutting and sanding already and it's been exactly what I needed for $22. I'm not sure if it will have longevity, but if it survives this job it will be a great value over Dremel's pricing. Like others had said in the reviews, the flex shaft didn't have much lubrication. Seems simple enough to wipe it down with some basic utility grease. It didn't seem necessary to pump the whole shaft full.

I have a real Dremel, but for twenty dollars I’m strongly considering it for the accessories and just as a spare.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




canyoneer posted:

Listed for $600 locally, includes everything, but someone else is looking at it right now :f5:. Hopefully the potential buyer is an unserious tire-kicker and passes on it.

This will either be the one that got away, or the greatest get I will ever get on a used tool.




Includes saw, cabinet, mobile base, original wings, etc. Router table and lift is priced separately, at $400.

I am rooting for you! I mean I'll be insanely jealous, but I am still rooting for you! Incra stuff is so cool! I still want one of their space future router table fences.
https://incra.com/router_table_fences-wonder_fence.html#prettyPhoto

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Commodore_64 posted:

Incra stuff is so cool! I still want one of their space future router table fences.
https://incra.com/router_table_fences-wonder_fence.html#prettyPhoto

Why did you have to show me this website? Why must you make me want things I cannot afford?




Speaking of table saw poo poo (that I cannot yet afford), is the Delta 36-725T2 still the go-to first-timer table saw?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I. M. Gei posted:

Why did you have to show me this website? Why must you make me want things I cannot afford?




Speaking of table saw poo poo (that I cannot yet afford), is the Delta 36-725T2 still the go-to first-timer table saw?

I have the original one (not the T2) but I love mine. Heads up, Ridgid is now branding what appears to be the exact same saw painted orange as the R4560: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Contractor-Table-Saw-with-Cast-Iron-Top-R4560/315635451, in case you have a color preference, or one's on sale, or you have a gift card or something.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



more falafel please posted:

I have the original one (not the T2) but I love mine. Heads up, Ridgid is now branding what appears to be the exact same saw painted orange as the R4560: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Contractor-Table-Saw-with-Cast-Iron-Top-R4560/315635451, in case you have a color preference, or one's on sale, or you have a gift card or something.

That is very good to know since the 725T2 appears to be a Lowes exclusive



EDIT: Might as well mention this for those of y’all who don’t know. Lowes apparently only does price matching with their major competitors, which include Home Depot and (I think) Ace and the like. This means that unlike Home Depot, Lowes won’t price match with local mom-and-pop stores or regional store chains, but they MIGHT price match with Amazon and/or eBay (although I should double-check that to be sure). By contrast, Home Depot will price match with local/regional stores regardless of where they are in America, but not with major online companies like Amazon and eBay.

I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Sep 14, 2021

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I'd like go build a small wood work bench that I can put in my basement and put a Harbor Freight top chest on as tool storage. It will be less for "work" and more just for storage, so I'd like something with a decent sized shelf on the bottom as well. Because of the size of my space and the size of the chest, I think something 2 feet by 4 feet will work just fine, with an added bonus that I can just get a 2x4 plywood handi-panel for the top, instead of having to hassle with cutting plywood with my circular saw or getting it home in my tiny car.

I'm sure if I put my mind to it I could easily design something myself, and I can certainly find lots of plans online or in books. But I'm wondering if anyone has any plans they know of that are really good, or warnings for myself. I know it will need to be pretty strong, because it's holding a 116 pound chest + heavy tools. I'll probably anchor it to the wall, since the place I'll be putting it has exposed studs that I can easily attach to, so it will be stable. Anything else I should watch out for?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/workbenches/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-63395.html

That's bigger than what you want, but it's pretty decent quality (several friends have them) and inexpensive to the point I don't think you couldn't buy the wood to do something yourself for that price.

E: couldn't, not could

Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 15, 2021

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Motronic posted:

https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/workbenches/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-63395.html

That's bigger than what you want, but it's pretty decent quality (several friends have them) and inexpensive to the point I don't think you could buy the wood to do something yourself for that price.

This thing is loving awful and will rack to bits if you put a hundred pounds on it and try to work on it. It has similar fastners as those lovely IKEA dressers that fall to bits upon the first move.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cannon_Fodder posted:

This thing is loving awful and will rack to bits if you put a hundred pounds on it and try to work on it. It has similar fastners as those lovely IKEA dressers that fall to bits upon the first move.

Ugh, sorry then. I guess the people I know with them have braced them somehow, or have had them since before they turned to poo poo.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/workbenches/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-63395.html

That's bigger than what you want, but it's pretty decent quality (several friends have them) and inexpensive to the point I don't think you couldn't buy the wood to do something yourself for that price.

E: couldn't, not could

These are the benches that we used in my window restoration class and i can confirm that they are pretty reasonable quality.

Edit: the ones in Bob's shop were probably a decade old so it might be a similar issue

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
I’m looking at this assembly video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBVtHDCqMk

I suspect that the fiberboard is the weak link. Replace those small pieces with real wood or plywood and maybe upgrade the fasteners. A brace behind the drawers could help, too.

MrPete
May 17, 2007

Cannon_Fodder posted:

This thing is loving awful and will rack to bits if you put a hundred pounds on it and try to work on it. It has similar fastners as those lovely IKEA dressers that fall to bits upon the first move.
Looking at the video Platystemon linked it would be pretty trivial to put three pieces of 12mm ply on that bench to stiffen it up immensely, one across the back and one on each side.

An easy way to stop it walking all over the workshop is get another sheet of ply or that fancy osb stuff and screw it to the feet, positioned so you're standing on the sheet when working at the bench.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


MrPete posted:

Looking at the video Platystemon linked it would be pretty trivial to put three pieces of 12mm ply on that bench to stiffen it up immensely, one across the back and one on each side.

An easy way to stop it walking all over the workshop is get another sheet of ply or that fancy osb stuff and screw it to the feet, positioned so you're standing on the sheet when working at the bench.

This is what I was thinking. Seems like it would be pretty easy to add your own braces with ~$30 worth of Home Depot plywood and some wood screws.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

Khizan posted:

This is what I was thinking. Seems like it would be pretty easy to add your own braces with ~$30 worth of Home Depot plywood and some wood screws.

You may want to double-check what $30 gets you nowadays. At least where I'm at sheet goods are still hideously expensive right now even if framing lumber has come way down in price. 1/2''(12mm~) not knotty gap-filled crap plywood is still $80 a sheet.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Elem7 posted:

You may want to double-check what $30 gets you nowadays. At least where I'm at sheet goods are still hideously expensive right now even if framing lumber has come way down in price. 1/2''(12mm~) not knotty gap-filled crap plywood is still $80 a sheet.

3/4" (23/32 Sanded pine) ply was $50/sheet last week at Lowes in New Mexico.

I just checked nearby and its $42.38 here. Still maybe 30-40% higher than pre COVID

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Sep 16, 2021

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
Build your work bench out of metal. LIKE A MAN.

WOOD IS WEAK. METAL IS STRONG

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

FISHMANPET posted:

Really dumb harbor freight question, their tool chests all say "Please visit any store to order for Free Pickup" and nothing about local stock. So I'm assuming that means it's not a stock item, but I can special order it from the store and have it shipped to the store where I'd pick it up, right?

https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/tool-storage/top-chests/26-in-single-bank-top-chest-blue-64430.html

So I got this ordered today. This was the second store I happened to check in, but it was the one closest to me so I ordered it. Both stores had a couple of the red chests in stock but nothing else. All the staff seemed very confused at my wanting to order this. Yes I know I'll need to actually give you my phone number. Yes I know I will have to wait for it to get delivered. Yes I know you have red, but I want blue. It took... 4 employees, including the manager to actually get it ordered, even though it's as simple as them scanning the "presale" tag that's on the tool chest display for you to bring to the counter to purchase. By the way they call it "presale" and seemed confused by the word "order" even though this process is exactly the same as a "special order" at a a Menards or really just any store that lets you order things to be shipped to the store. My guess is not many people are ordering things from Harbor Freight, if it's not in the shop today they don't want it. Or maybe I just got unlucky at that particular store, but in about 3 weeks I should have my chest, which hopefully gives me enough time to figure out my bench situation.

I'm not sure that HF workbench would actually fit in the space I'm thinking of, it's only a couple inches wider than 4 feet, so that 60 inches wouldn't work out regardless of stability.

E: And right after I post I find this plan. It looks like it's a from a newsletter for aircraft builders, but it's got everything I want. Strength, stability, the ability to use a 2x4 handipanel. I'll shorten it so it's 4 feet instead of 5 feet, and I can trim a 2x4 piece of plywood by 10 inches for the bottom shelf. And I wanted a bottom shelf! I might also reinforce the bottom shelf a bit we'll see.

FISHMANPET fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Sep 16, 2021

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Literally A Person posted:

Build your work bench out of metal. LIKE A MAN.

WOOD IS WEAK. METAL IS STRONG

Make it out of diamonds, you wimp.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Cannon_Fodder posted:

Make it out of diamonds, you wimp.

:aaaaa:

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Cannon_Fodder posted:

Make it out of diamonds, you wimp.

I would imagine diamonds are good in compression, but what about in tension?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

FISHMANPET posted:

E: And right after I post I find this plan. It looks like it's a from a newsletter for aircraft builders, but it's got everything I want. Strength, stability, the ability to use a 2x4 handipanel. I'll shorten it so it's 4 feet instead of 5 feet, and I can trim a 2x4 piece of plywood by 10 inches for the bottom shelf. And I wanted a bottom shelf! I might also reinforce the bottom shelf a bit we'll see.

Ah poo poo I'm gonna need some clamps!

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

AmbassadorofSodomy posted:

I would imagine diamonds are good in compression, but what about in tension?

According to this site, their tensile strength is 28% of their compressive strength. So: still pretty drat high!

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Tools:

FISHMANPET posted:

Ah poo poo I'm gonna need some clamps!

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



FISHMANPET posted:

Ah poo poo I'm gonna need some clamps!

Better unclamp your wallet and clamp up buddy.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


FISHMANPET posted:

Ah poo poo I'm gonna need some clamps!

No matter how many clamps you have, the amount of clamps you need is roughly equal to "however many you already have plus two".

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

FISHMANPET posted:

Ah poo poo I'm gonna need some clamps!

Harbor Freight clamps are actually decent, and they're cheap as hell.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

According to this site, their tensile strength is 28% of their compressive strength. So: still pretty drat high!

Just don't get them above 1400 degrees F

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Cannon_Fodder posted:

Make it out of diamonds, you wimp.

Diamonds are way more brittle than people think they are. If you tap one with a hammer it’ll shatter into a million pieces. Mohs hardness measures scratch resistance which doesn’t necessarily correlate to impact strength.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Hello. I'm having some odd behaviour with my new nailgun.

I have this nailgun
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MUNTZHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and these nails
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-galvanised-collated-framing-stick-nails-3-1-x-90mm-2200-pack/4764f?_requestid=379409

It dry fires at least half the time. It puts a sharp dent into the wood but no nail fires. Firing it again usually fires a nail.

When it does fire it's mostly fine, maybe needs more pressure to ensure a good depth (maybe the max of 120psi instead of current ~90psi), but any idea why it's not firing reliably? It's quite hard to tell the difference between a dry fire and one which sank the head.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
All of my heavy construction experience as a child comes from before the time of impact drivers, so I'm still a little confused about them.

So just as an example, I've been building my workbench, and I have to drive some 3-inch screws into wood. I've got this impact driver and this hammer drill/driver. The hammer drill is a little more powerful than the standard driver that comes with Ryobi kits, and using it in driver mode I'm able to drive in my 3-inch screws in all the way, and even have to set the clutch a bit so it doesn't overdrive them. I can also use the impact driver and it hits enough resistance that it goes into "impact" mode (well, it gets loud so I assume that's what's happening) but it gets the screw in.

The impact driver is lighter than smaller than the big drill/driver, but is one doing a "better" job than the other? Is the benefit of the impact driver just that because it does the impact motion, it's able to drive just as well as a larger driver? If size/weight isn't an issue (since I'm inside just driving a few screws at a time) is one better to use than the other? I'm not used to the impact driver so it's usually not the tool I reach for first, but maybe it should be?

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


FISHMANPET posted:

All of my heavy construction experience as a child comes from before the time of impact drivers, so I'm still a little confused about them.

So just as an example, I've been building my workbench, and I have to drive some 3-inch screws into wood. I've got this impact driver and this hammer drill/driver. The hammer drill is a little more powerful than the standard driver that comes with Ryobi kits, and using it in driver mode I'm able to drive in my 3-inch screws in all the way, and even have to set the clutch a bit so it doesn't overdrive them. I can also use the impact driver and it hits enough resistance that it goes into "impact" mode (well, it gets loud so I assume that's what's happening) but it gets the screw in.

The impact driver is lighter than smaller than the big drill/driver, but is one doing a "better" job than the other? Is the benefit of the impact driver just that because it does the impact motion, it's able to drive just as well as a larger driver? If size/weight isn't an issue (since I'm inside just driving a few screws at a time) is one better to use than the other? I'm not used to the impact driver so it's usually not the tool I reach for first, but maybe it should be?

To my knowledge neither is better than the other for every day screw driving. I tend to default to the impact driver, but since it's a bit more aggressive and doesn't have as easy speed control I tend not to use it for more delicate situations where I'm concerned about overdoing it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FISHMANPET posted:

Is the benefit of the impact driver just that because it does the impact motion, it's able to drive just as well as a larger driver?

It's this.

I've built a bunch of stuff using an impact drill, then I finally got an impact driver and put the smallest battery on it and it's amazingly nicer to deal with.

If you're just doing a handful of screws it probably doesn't matter. But if you're building a structure or something you'll be glad to have the impact driver.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I also find it far easier to extract screws with partially stripped heads using an impact driver. Which the previous owners have left plenty of.

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B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Jaded Burnout posted:

When it does fire it's mostly fine, maybe needs more pressure to ensure a good depth (maybe the max of 120psi instead of current ~90psi), but any idea why it's not firing reliably? It's quite hard to tell the difference between a dry fire and one which sank the head.

I remember cringing when you posted about getting a framing gun with an 'adjustable magazine'. These are not common, and I don't think I've ever seen one in the wild. Considering the magazine's interface with the gun/chamber is the critical component in reliable feeding - I think you know the answer here.

'round here, clipped head nails aren't allowed, so I never saw any point for anything other than a 21 degree gun.

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