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Can you not smear the left foot instead of trying a toe hook and then have to generate less momentum for the dyno? I'm only 5ft8 and I've got stubby strong arms and long legs so I try to use my legs where I can to dyno up to holds instead of relying on brute strength. E. I mean smear on the hold you are trying the toe hook
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Sep 21, 2021 18:45
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Hard to tell in the video but it's at quite a bad angle to try that, and I think I'll just be too scrunched up based on how poor the toe hook was. I already climbed the last 2 nights doing nearly nothing but that project, I want to go again tonight but I need a rest day  it's been a while since I've gotten bitten by the "must. send." bug -- the last two cave sets have sucked 
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Sep 21, 2021 18:54
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To me it looks like you just don't keep tension on your left foot and could stick it dynamically while keeping the foot on. If you really can't then you probably have to push harder and commit more. Using the right foot and sort of smearing while you push like someone else suggested might be doable also. --- Did my second outdoor V5 so I'll shamelessly share the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xI0MSG3s4 KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Sep 21, 2021 |
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Sep 21, 2021 20:50
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KingColliwog posted:
Grats. That looks like a pretty fun route
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Sep 21, 2021 21:20
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Sab669 posted:I have tried to sorta bicycle it, doesn't feel especially great. My foot is actually flat on on a wall perpendicular to me, but it's just far enough away that I can't really sink into it to help explode off that. I'll try experimenting with that more though. are you tall enough to rotate your right hand so its holding that hold on the side instead of on the top and still be able to reach the destination? i feel like you could hold it better that way
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Sep 22, 2021 01:00
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 what a name
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Sep 22, 2021 05:35
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:
It's actually the name of a great biblical hunter, it's only thought to mean "idiot" because of Bugs Bunny
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Sep 22, 2021 06:36
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Salisbury Snape posted:Grats. That looks like a pretty fun route Thanks! It was indeed fun since I just love heel hooks, pinches and arettes in general, but the best thing is just seeing my improvement outdoors. Last year doing a V3 outdoor was a lot of work and pretty challenging and I've sent both V5s I have attempted this year and both went pretty fast. I used to feel like outdoor was much harder than indoors, but it's not as different as I thought. Finding the beta and needing good conditions is a big challenge outdoors, but in the end physically and technically it didn't feel more challenging than many V5s I've seen in my gym. Makes me wonder how hard I could actually send outdoors if I really tried and had the opportunity to go outdoor often.
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Sep 22, 2021 20:33
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KingColliwog posted:To me it looks like you just don't keep tension on your left foot and could stick it dynamically while keeping the foot on. Sick! Looks like that top out gets hard. Good job sticking with it.
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Sep 23, 2021 20:23
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Jester Mcgee posted:Sick! Looks like that top out gets hard. Good job sticking with it. It's really not that bad, but the landing is pretty scary and uneven + I'm really chicken during top outs outdoor. The hold on the top is really good but kind of far away and angled in a way where you don't get much out of it until you get a leg over. It was also my first time getting to the top. The hardest moves are on the left where I didn't film because I'm dumb. You have to jump from small crack to small crack with the left hand and if you miss you just get ejected. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 26, 2021 |
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Sep 26, 2021 17:54
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I'm working at a climbing gym and only 30 hrs / week so I have more time to spend climbing than I know what to do with. What would your dream schedule be? I've sortof landed at : Short steep bouldering session (indoors), biceps, triceps Active rest - Antagonists, cardio, core Bouldering session (indoors), weighted pullups Active rest - Trad / route development Redpoint or onsight Full Rest Redpointing It seems to strike a good balance between getting better (outdoors) and getting stronger (indoors). I try to go hard when I climb and avoid empty mileage on easy routes. I also try to avoid two performance days in a row - despite penty of food and rest I have a hard time recovering fully for the next day. I seem to have the most success sending projects if I work the route one day, have a rest day and then go again two days later (when the beta still is fresh in my head).
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Sep 27, 2021 22:24
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Ubiquitus posted:Buy an organic one, well worth it IMO and itll last forever Sab669 posted:I suppose I could justify it as a birthday gift for myself Just wanted to follow up on this and say the deluxe bucket owns hard. It looks great in the color scheme I picked, seems well constructed/quality materials, and the pocket is big enough for my phone, keys, and wallet. So I can put all my stuff in it and then clip it to my bike handlebars, and then I just throw my shoes and water bottle onto a carabiner clipped onto the handlebars as well. Extremely convenient to no longer need a whole rear end backpack. The bucket can also double as a camera stand if I want to film stuff, which is a nice little bonus.
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Sep 29, 2021 15:07
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Got another likely climbing related stress injury to ask about. Soreness/weakness centered in my ring and middle fingers' first knuckles (the knuckle closest to the hand), radiates a little bit to the medial side (pinky side) of my wrist, exacerbated by pinching type stuff in climbing and also by picking up a cast iron pan by the handle. Sound familiar to anyone and are there any good rehab exercises to work it out? e: possibly relevant, same arm in which i had tennis elbow a few months ago, which i mostly knocked out with some rest and a therabar. but this time the pain isn't really in my elbow. alnilam fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Sep 29, 2021 |
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Sep 29, 2021 19:58
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alnilam posted:Got another likely climbing related stress injury to ask about. Soreness/weakness centered in my ring and middle fingers' first knuckles (the knuckle closest to the hand), radiates a little bit to the medial side (pinky side) of my wrist, exacerbated by pinching type stuff in climbing and also by picking up a cast iron pan by the handle. Do you mean the knuckle that directly connects the finger to the hand, or 1 down from there? My middle knuckle was hurting real bad this summer after I was really pushing my crimp game. Someone ITT shared this article after I said it was still hurting after 9 days of zero climbing. https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/ I did the finger exercises shown in Phase 1, Photos #1 - 4 as prescribed. Noticed quite a bit of improvement so I started climbing again and just told myself "no hard crimpy problems" and was mindful to climb easier poo poo for a while and then I kinda forgot about it 
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Sep 29, 2021 20:41
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It's more centered around the one that connects finger to hand. I have been working on more crimpy and pinchy stuff lately and it might be why. so I'll try these exercises and maybe work on some more juggy or slopey stuff for a bit, do some endurance work on easier routes, etc.
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Sep 29, 2021 20:58
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Has anyone here been out to Fontainebleau? We are looking at booking a lodge out there for late summer or early autumn for a week of nonstop bouldering chaos.
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Oct 1, 2021 18:46
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Salisbury Snape posted:Has anyone here been out to Fontainebleau? We are looking at booking a lodge out there for late summer or early autumn for a week of nonstop bouldering chaos. Yes, twice. Do it. Camping in Font sucks this time of year. I've stayed near Milly Le Foret and Noisy Sur Ecole. Get a copy of this https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/5-plus-6-fontainebleau-bouldering-guidebook.html and take a bouldering mat each if you can. If you're in a group you'll want to gang up on problems some days, and others you'll want to sneak off into the woods and pick out a solo project. Bleau.info is a really helpful resource too. Pace yourself if you're there a week. Otherwise you'll have no skin or strength left for the last days and that gets a bit boring. Take lots of food, a really warm jacket and a thermos flask. A lot of the day will be spent sitting around on pads, eating baguettes and mind-climbing. Check out which venues to avoid climbing soon after rain. Cul de Chien in particular is a no go because the rock is soft when it is damp. Try and do one circuit while you're there, just for fun. Good problems to try on a first trip are: Marie Rose https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq5Xku0Ipuo Science Friction https://bleau.info/apremontest/1462.html Le P'tit Toit https://bettybeta.com/bouldering/fontainebleau/95-2/le-ptit-toit-le-tourniquet- It's rare anyone ever finishes this anymore but it's fun to watch people try. Graviton https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=885YarNHic4 is a good example of a "font style" top out so be warned when you see that in the beta.
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Oct 2, 2021 15:48
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I bought a harness and like sport climbing now 
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Oct 3, 2021 15:24
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I want to like it, but my clipping technique is so bad that I need to just practice on like, 5.9's but those are so colossaly boring to actually climb that I don't want to do it. And also I don't really have anyone to climb with 
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Oct 3, 2021 16:35
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Learn how to clip smoothly the old fashioned way: jury rig a hanging draw next to your couch and clip mindlessly for a couple of hours while watching tv.
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Oct 3, 2021 16:53
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Sab669 posted:I want to like it, but my clipping technique is so bad that I need to just practice on like, 5.9's but those are so colossaly boring to actually climb that I don't want to do it. This might sound ridiculous but I'd suggest hanging a quickdraw at home, tying the rope around your waist (or otherwise simulating having the rope attached to a harness or wearing a harness) and spend some time dedicated to practicing clipping at home from the comfort of the ground. Try every variety you can. Watch a couple YouTube videos and try different techniques out. You can at least get the hand motions down and it will make the on-the-wall effort that much easier. Then you can focus on finding good stances on the wall and not think about what your hand and arm need to do.
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Oct 3, 2021 16:59
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Niyqor posted:This might sound ridiculous but I'd suggest hanging a quickdraw at home, tying the rope around your waist (or otherwise simulating having the rope attached to a harness or wearing a harness) and spend some time dedicated to practicing clipping at home from the comfort of the ground. Also you can jump on some auto-belay and have just a couple meters of rope hanging from your harness and clip as you go. You'll look extra ridiculous, but it's 90% like leading for real (except for the drag and the fear)
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Oct 3, 2021 18:20
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What would be a cost-effective way to get my hands on a decent length of rope for practicing with a quickdraw at home? Don't wanna drop $100+ on a rope that I'm scarcely going to use when everyone I know who does lead already owns their own Also gently caress me I've finally been able to reliably stick that next move but it doesn't get any easier  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoLeXontLkc I finally saw someone send this last night, but he's one of the stronger climbers in my gym and made it look so effortless. He matched his right foot to his right hand, then just stepped right up to the final hold. Instead of left foot to right hand and matching, like I tried.
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Oct 5, 2021 14:28
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You only need, I dunno, 5 feet of tail for clipping practice. Ask around Facebook or your local gym if anyone's got a retired rope you can have a chunk of. Alternatively, lots of places sell cordage by the foot. Find the chunkiest cord you can and or braid a few of them together to approximate a climbing rope diameter.
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Oct 5, 2021 15:01
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A lot of outdoors shops even sell climbing rope by the foot
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Oct 5, 2021 15:17
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alnilam posted:A lot of outdoors shops even sell climbing rope by the foot Yeah do that. You can get a static rope that you'll use as an approach rope and can even do anchors with down the line. 10meters of static rope is gonna be very cheap and will be multi purpose
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Oct 5, 2021 17:29
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A friend of mine asked a route setter at our gym and she cut him a length.
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Oct 5, 2021 17:29
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Slimy Hog posted:A friend of mine asked a route setter at our gym and she cut him a length. Asking the route setters / desk staff they can give you a chunk of rope when they retire one from the climbing walls is often an option. Just be very clear that you're not going to use it to climb.
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Oct 5, 2021 17:31
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Funny question, when people do multi day sleep on a port-a-ledge climbs, do they poop? How? Also do they pee off the edge or into a bottle or ?
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Oct 5, 2021 19:16
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alnilam posted:Funny question, when people do multi day sleep on a port-a-ledge climbs, do they poop? How? Poop tube
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Oct 5, 2021 19:25
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Just like in many regions its acceptable to to put in bolts for sport climbing, some local land management groups are ok with pneumatic tubes for pooping.
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Oct 6, 2021 04:18
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Lor Sabourin film is out now on YouTube. 5.14 trad in Arizona. Looks unbelievably cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahuiQT4xMdw
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Oct 9, 2021 11:38
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alnilam posted:Funny question, when people do multi day sleep on a port-a-ledge climbs, do they poop? How? https://www.msrgear.com/blog/steph-davis-answers-going-to-the-bathroom-on-the-wall/ Thats actually really interesting!
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Oct 9, 2021 12:54
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Stone fort is for sale. Hopefully the next owner doesnt mess things up too badly.
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Oct 10, 2021 19:06
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I can start doing high-impact exercise again in 4 weeks, but after what will be 13 weeks not doing any climbing, I'm fat and weak. I know what to do about my fat and weak arms/fingers but I've never recovered from a broken foot. Does anyone have a good training program (or link to a good training program) for recovering from a broken foot?
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Oct 12, 2021 17:05
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Slimy Hog posted:I can start doing high-impact exercise again in 4 weeks, but after what will be 13 weeks not doing any climbing, I'm fat and weak. I know what to do about my fat and weak arms/fingers but I've never recovered from a broken foot. No specific program, but I've had a few friends climb TR in a boot and just take it easy.
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Oct 12, 2021 17:28
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armorer posted:No specific program, but I've had a few friends climb TR in a boot and just take it easy. Oh drat... I got told today that I could start wearing sneakers instead and do non "high-impact" exercises so I could theoretically wear my approach shoe on one foot and a climbing shoe on the other. As long as I'm doing TR and not leading or bouldering there shouldn't be any "high impact" on that foot at all....
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Oct 12, 2021 17:56
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Slimy Hog posted:Oh drat... I got told today that I could start wearing sneakers instead and do non "high-impact" exercises so I could theoretically wear my approach shoe on one foot and a climbing shoe on the other. As long as I'm doing TR and not leading or bouldering there shouldn't be any "high impact" on that foot at all.... Yeah I mean I had friends literally climbing in a hard boot and just using one foot (their good foot). I don't know what grade you climb, but I could easy climb 5.8 on toprope one footed, for example.
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Oct 12, 2021 18:13
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I saw someone bouldering with a boot on and just downclimbing everything. Seemed needlessly risky to me, even if you're climbing like 3-4 grades down but you do you I guess.
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Oct 12, 2021 18:43
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Sab669 posted:I saw someone bouldering with a boot on and just downclimbing everything. Seemed needlessly risky to me, even if you're climbing like 3-4 grades down but you do you I guess. Yeah I wouldn't boulder or lead, but TR below your limit should be fine.
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Oct 12, 2021 18:50
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