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That Prusa AFS the long-awaited Core XY of theirs? If so, that's sure a pretty penny more expensive than the rumored 1500 bux. Also, anyone here also in the Voron VOC channels, who was causing the drama? I'm on a hiatus and missed that one.
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Oct 6, 2021 16:43
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Combat Pretzel posted:That Prusa AFS the long-awaited Core XY of theirs? If so, that's sure a pretty penny more expensive than the rumored 1500 bux. No. The Automated Farm System holds other printers and has a robot arm that unloads/reloads build plates. It's basically putting up for sale some of the mass-production stuff they've done for their own print farm over the years.
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Oct 6, 2021 16:49
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The newsletter said the corexy printers in the expo farm are their own thing and definitely NOT the Prusa XL (with tool changing), but do share some parts commonality.
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Oct 6, 2021 16:56
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Hello thread. My last question here was about the printability of a design, but this one's a little more open-ended. I'm not sure my current idea is any good, so I'm very open to alternatives. I would like to replicate this part, a battery compartment cover of an old calculator:   The original piece is made of stamped steel, and each square on that grid mat is 1/2". It has curved sides and a very thin lip which slides along the case of the calculator. The thickness of the lid itself is about 0.5mm. So the design is not really different from others of the type, but it is simultaneously delicate in features and heavy in material. I'd think about resin for this, but I doubt the lip would hold up given that it's <0.5mm thick (actually difficult to measure). Some other plastic would probably be better -- it'll require surface finishing anyway and sanding/filling would be a way to further refine the shape. (Obviously I'd have to add the battery leads on my own) So what do you think -- is this a decent application of 3D printing given the size and thickness demands? I imagine so, and that it'll take multiple iterations and I'm perfectly fine with that. Comedy option is to make it out of Sculpey or something I can shape by hand 
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Oct 6, 2021 17:20
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If anyone is on the fence about gloves and resin, my sample size of one is that I now have a permanent moderate allergy to d-Limonene (and a mild allergy to peeling oranges) because I used it with bare hands, assuming it was safe because it came from oranges. This was 4 years ago and I still puff up like the Michelin man if I get near d-Limonene.
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Oct 6, 2021 17:34
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insta posted:If anyone is on the fence about gloves and resin, my sample size of one is that I now have a permanent moderate allergy to d-Limonene (and a mild allergy to peeling oranges) because I used it with bare hands, assuming it was safe because it came from oranges. This was 4 years ago and I still puff up like the Michelin man if I get near d-Limonene. I cringe in horror every time I see a YouTube vid with someone reviewing or showing off a resin printer, and then they futz around with a build plate that's dripping resin, with no gloves on. To say nothing of the one guy's post I read a while back (I think it was on FB) who was all "I never use gloves, I just wash my hands when I'm done" 
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Oct 6, 2021 17:39
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These are the resins I've used so far. Elegoo Standard Gray - Hard but brittle, holds good detail - I've used this a lot. Elegoo Water Washable Black - A little less brittle than Standard but black makes it hard to see details and water washable is more hassle than it's worth. Elegoo Plant based gray - Exactly like Standard Gray Phrozen Aqua 4k Gray - great detail not as brittle as Elegoo standard, nice color, If I could regularly get this at a reasonable price I would probably use it exclusively Siraya Tenacious - Only used it as an additive to Elegoo Standard, seemed to give models more flexibility Siraya Fast gray ABS like - less brittle than EGS and seems to have as good or better detail.
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Oct 6, 2021 17:42
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sarcastx posted:I've been going steadily insane with my second-hand MakerBot Replicator 2 Well I think I found the problem, hilariously (predictably) in my efforts to fix the problem I was making them worse. I noted that the filament was getting caught in the pinch roller thingy after the third layer (while it was printing infill). I'd thought this was a slicer issue - I had tried lowering the temperature but this filament wouldn't reliably come out lower than 215c. I'd also slowed the print down many many times - eventually to 40mm/sec, hoping that the slower speed would improve reliability. Turns out: the slower speed meant that the filament spent more time in the print head, which got it soft, which caused the pinch roller thing to eventually crush the filament and it couldn't get traction. SO: I turned the speed way the gently caress up, and bingo: she prints! Getting reliable results at 80mm/sec now (ok maybe it's not that fast but it's shitloads faster than where my prints were failing).
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Oct 6, 2021 20:24
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I cringe in horror every time I see a YouTube vid with someone reviewing or showing off a resin printer, and then they futz around with a build plate that's dripping resin, with no gloves on. To say nothing of the one guy's post I read a while back (I think it was on FB) who was all "I never use gloves, I just wash my hands when I'm done" Did anybody ever find that print seller's storefront for the guy that ships uncured resin prints to his customers?
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Oct 6, 2021 20:26
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sarcastx posted:Turns out: the slower speed meant that the filament spent more time in the print head, which got it soft, which caused the pinch roller thing to eventually crush the filament and it couldn't get traction. SO: If that is indeed what's happening, that is called "heat creep" and it's a problem with the extruder design. New models with better cooling won't do that. Idk if there's a good retrofit option for a MakerBot or if it might be better to just get a new machine, but good for you figuring it out.
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Oct 6, 2021 20:28
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Did anybody ever find that print seller's storefront for the guy that ships uncured resin prints to his customers? Why would anyone want to do this or buy from this person? What's even the point?
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Oct 6, 2021 21:11
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People are INCREDIBLY cheap.
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Oct 6, 2021 21:40
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There was a merchant a little while ago bragging in discord about how they try to stay green by shipping their minis padded with their used, resin-soaked paper towels. I'm pretty sure that's a different merchant than the one you guys are talking about though, so I guess there's more than 1 them out there.
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Oct 6, 2021 22:13
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We need to find these merchants and post about them in these threads as examples of what not to do.
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Oct 6, 2021 23:09
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InternetJunky posted:There was a merchant a little while ago bragging in discord about how they try to stay green by shipping their minis padded with their used, resin-soaked paper towels. Pretend this is that GIF of a huge Psyduck popping little psyducks out o this eyeballs. I made a half hearted attempt to find the first guy on face book, but I guess I’ll have to go deeper.
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Oct 6, 2021 23:26
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I just recently came back to 3D printing after about a year and I'm looking to buy some filament. What manufacturers do y'all recommend? I'm looking for 1.75mm ABS so I can smooth the finished prints in an acetone vapor chamber. I seem to remember one brand that everyone was pretty crazy for that had a dog as its mascot but I can't place the name off-hand.
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Oct 7, 2021 02:20
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Jessie is the one with the dog on it and it's good quality, yes. These days you should be fine with whatever, though, as long as it's not literally the cheapest thing on Amazon. Most of the crappy manufacturers have gone away and the good ones have dialed in their processes.
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Oct 7, 2021 02:23
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InternetJunky posted:There was a merchant a little while ago bragging in discord about how they try to stay green by shipping their minis padded with their used, resin-soaked paper towels. no fuckin way
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Oct 7, 2021 03:36
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w00tmonger posted:no fuckin way I had to go back a few months to find it because I almost convinced myself I imagined it
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Oct 7, 2021 04:06
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What causes this weird striping pattern. Prusaslicer v2.3.x; ender 3 v2 The slicer has the nozzle start at ~4'oclock on each of these circles. Kind of looks like extra squeeze-out from the extruder, I guess? Nozzle too close + extruder needs to be dialed back ~0.5%? It only looks like this for the very first layer, adhering to the bed, layers 2+ look fine There's some tear-out happening on the second circle, I think that's just because this is cheap hatchbox PLA. These are just lens caps for vintage ($cheap) slr ebay lenses so print quality doesn't super matter, i think they are 6 layers thick total, but I've noticed this trend happening over time for a lot of my prints with large base layers (i.e. 95% of them) Fake edit: layer 2, nozzle starts at ~8'oclock and goes to 2'oclock;  real edit: my relative humidity has been ~49% @ 79F for the last 30 days Hadlock fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 10:55
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Jesus Christ... 
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Oct 7, 2021 13:13
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Unperson_47 posted:I just recently came back to 3D printing after about a year and I'm looking to buy some filament. What manufacturers do y'all recommend? I'm looking for 1.75mm ABS so I can smooth the finished prints in an acetone vapor chamber. I've found esun abs+ to be the nicest to print after being recommended by someone here. Has less warpage than standard abs. Other brands probably have similar formulations now
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Oct 7, 2021 13:36
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Hadlock posted:What causes this weird striping pattern. Prusaslicer v2.3.x; ender 3 v2 You're to close to the bed.
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Oct 7, 2021 13:43
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Hadlock posted:What causes this weird striping pattern. Prusaslicer v2.3.x; ender 3 v2 Either you're too close to the bed or there is some fuckery going on with the filament diameter. Pretty sure it's the too close to the bed thing though.
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Oct 7, 2021 13:55
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Looks like Anycubic is having some decent sales on their FDM printers if anybody wants to get into the hobby or wants another one.
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Oct 7, 2021 14:24
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Either you're too close to the bed or there is some fuckery going on with the filament diameter. I think he's got a loose carriage as well. Or a loose print head. Between the two, you'd get that sort of variance. AS WELL as being to close to the bed.
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Oct 7, 2021 15:38
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Nerobro posted:I think he's got a loose carriage as well. Or a loose print head. Between the two, you'd get that sort of variance. AS WELL as being to close to the bed. If some fuckery is happening between the bed mount and the actual Y-axis that could explain it, yeah (loose wheels on the groove if the Ender still uses wheels and grooves on the bed carriage, or maybe even some kind of wear/tear on the wheels resulting in small obstructions in the path of the wheels, haven't looked at one in a long time).
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Oct 7, 2021 15:48
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Doctor Zero posted:Jesus Christ... If this wasn't already gone I would 100% return the second printer I just bought and buy that instead. That's a crazy price for a really pointlessly high resolution on what I'm assuming is the same or similar built-plate size to the mini 4k?
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Oct 7, 2021 16:52
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Paradoxish posted:If this wasn't already gone I would 100% return the second printer I just bought and buy that instead. That's a crazy price for a really pointlessly high resolution on what I'm assuming is the same or similar built-plate size to the mini 4k? It's coming up... quote:Sonic Mini 8K pre-order bundles as well as the pre-order date on Oct. 17 It's a 7.1" build plate.
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Oct 7, 2021 17:26
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Paradoxish posted:If this wasn't already gone I would 100% return the second printer I just bought and buy that instead. That's a crazy price for a really pointlessly high resolution on what I'm assuming is the same or similar built-plate size to the mini 4k? It’s not gone, it hasn’t gone on sale yet. That was the pre-release announcement. I swore I wasn’t going to get more printers, but that’s a no brainer. And yeah the build plate is bigger.
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Oct 7, 2021 17:59
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Anyone here use a Voron kit? How bad is it to dial in?
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Oct 7, 2021 18:45
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I built a v0.1 with a formbot v0 kit and a pile of parts that I replaced (better bed, OMC v0.0 spec motors for the AB, OMC v0.1 spec motor for the z axis, and an LDO motor for the miniAB extruder, legit omron SSR from mouser), and it wasn't too bad. A touch more work than my Prusa, but now that it's up and going it will print ABS faster and more reliably than my prusa prints PLA. Just had to level the bed and spend some time tweaking settings in klipper but the voron and klipper docs have pretty good walk-throughs on all of that, and there's plenty of help in the discord (presumably, I haven't been in there for a while but I assume it hasn't gone to complete poo poo). The real risk of a voron "kit" is that a lot of the ones out there cut corners and are a bit shifty... the LDO kits should be pretty good, the ones where fabreeko swaps out parts for better ones should be pretty good, and the rest you should be prepared to replace stuff after the fact to make things run reliably and safely. Some of this can be simple stuff like linear rails that might be a bit off, or a bed that doesn't look great, but on the other side of the spectrum you can wind up with motors that aren't up too snuff (and may not even have a data sheet so you know what they really are), to counterfeit SSRs. If you're ok with replacing stuff that's not up to snuff it's a real good time. 
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Oct 7, 2021 19:01
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Doctor Zero posted:It’s not gone, it hasn’t gone on sale yet. That was the pre-release announcement. I swore I wasn’t going to get more printers, but that’s a no brainer. Oops, somehow I misread that as the early bird pre-order slots already being gone. gently caress.
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Oct 7, 2021 19:09
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Dr. Despair posted:I built a v0.1 with a formbot v0 kit and a pile of parts that I replaced (better bed, OMC v0.0 spec motors for the AB, OMC v0.1 spec motor for the z axis, and an LDO motor for the miniAB extruder, legit omron SSR from mouser), and it wasn't too bad. A touch more work than my Prusa, but now that it's up and going it will print ABS faster and more reliably than my prusa prints PLA. Just had to level the bed and spend some time tweaking settings in klipper but the voron and klipper docs have pretty good walk-throughs on all of that, and there's plenty of help in the discord (presumably, I haven't been in there for a while but I assume it hasn't gone to complete poo poo). Yeah I'm good with replacement parts! My job has taken an unexpected turn where I'm inventing a lot of poo poo, and manufacturing on one Ender 3v2 is unacceptable, so I've been tasked with getting a better printer to run jobs during the day. Do the LDO kids ship to Canada you think? Haven't had much luck with local vendors
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Oct 7, 2021 19:20
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So I got a camera working with OctoPrint! Super easy! Only problem, I never leave the lights on in the room where my printer is when I'm not in there. Has anyone attached a little LED bulb to the camera arm or something to let you see the print progress?
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Oct 7, 2021 19:22
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A lot of people have put those LED strips with tape on the back somewhere near the printer and just turned them on before leaving the printer to run and giving enough light for the camera to show what is happening. If you have a printer with a non-moving frame that has a good place to mount a light, that works, too.
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Oct 7, 2021 20:20
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I'm trying to print something but instead of homing x/y and outline routine etc it just climbs a few cm above the build plate and shits out a constant stream of filament. The display says 'printing' but it never does - the most I watched it was for about 3 mins, z axis doesn't move at all. I tried a couple other files but they print normally. Could this be an issue with the file? I resliced it a few times and checked all the sitting I can think to look at but there's no 'extrude filament nonstop' option I could find.
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Oct 7, 2021 21:35
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Talorat posted:So I got a camera working with OctoPrint! Super easy! Only problem, I never leave the lights on in the room where my printer is when I'm not in there. Has anyone attached a little LED bulb to the camera arm or something to let you see the print progress? This light bar is pretty popular and well-reviewed; he's got a full parts list for you to buy and print it yourself, or you can buy it from him as a kit or fully assembled.
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Oct 7, 2021 21:36
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Guest2553 posted:I'm trying to print something but instead of homing x/y and outline routine etc it just climbs a few cm above the build plate and shits out a constant stream of filament. The display says 'printing' but it never does - the most I watched it was for about 3 mins, z axis doesn't move at all. It's almost certainly an issue with the file, you can open it up in a text editor and check the G code which is just text lines telling it what to do. It's likely that the file is bad somehow or if you're using an sd card it could also be corrupt.
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Oct 7, 2021 22:04
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Talorat posted:So I got a camera working with OctoPrint! Super easy! Only problem, I never leave the lights on in the room where my printer is when I'm not in there. Has anyone attached a little LED bulb to the camera arm or something to let you see the print progress? I got a super cheap strip of USB-powered adhesive LEDs for TV bias lighting and ran them along the inside of my enclosure. Cheap and works great. smax fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 22:22
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