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DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Motronic posted:

Anything you find at a big box store is various level of junk, but the schlage stuff it nicer junk.

Any decent locksmith is going to have access to the actually nice stuff, which you can probably find online as well. I've got schlage stuff on my house (not the big box store kind) and it's nice, but I mostly chose them because I have several sliding glass doors that have schlage barrels in them so if I wanted one key for everything I really didn't have another choice.

Yeah, see my post earlier re: re-keying. It's not HARD, but it can be fiddly.

The main reason is just ease of use so that you can have just 1 key for all the doors. Even mid-grade consumer locks aren't that hard to defeat, but even then it's all mostly pointless because if you have ground floor windows they'll just smash them...or just try to break in the door (very easy if no deadbolt, and even with deadbolts not outside the realm of possibility) If someone REALLY wants in, they'll get in.

So you can't really prevent a dedicated person trying to break in, but locks can stop quick "crime of opportunity" types. Some nefarious person walks by, see's something nice through the window (TV, laptop, etc...), no cars in the driveway, and quickly just checks the door if it's unlocked. They don't want attention, so they aren't likely to try and pick or smash a window, so any lock that can stand up to a moderate level of jimmying is fine.

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Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

devmd01 posted:

How handy are you? Dryer vent cleaning kits are cheap and easy to use. So cheap that if you hire someone you’ll be very annoyed that you paid that much after watching what work is involved.

Seconding this. A dryer vent kit costs like 30 bucks and other than that all you need is a drill and a shopvac. If you don't have a drill or shopvac (a small one is fine) go get them, you'll need them for basically every other household task as well. You can do it with access to any one end of the vent, so even if the outside end is 30ft in the air that's no problem.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


JerikTelorian posted:

What would decent hardware be? Is schlage considered acceptable nowadays?

Your house is only as secure as your biggest piece of glass.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Related to door chat, I need a new screen/storm door. Is just ordering a off-the-shelf one that fits the measurements (36x80)* from HD or Lowe's fine? Like...it's just a screen door, as long as it fits and I like the look, that's pretty much all there is to it, right?

*Going off of search results and quantity, I'll say it's likely a 36x81 since that's a LOT more popular than 36x80.

DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Oct 22, 2021

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


DrBouvenstein posted:

Related to door chat, I need a new screen/storm door. Is just ordering a off-the-shelf one that fits the measurements (36x80)* from HD or Lowe's fine? Like...it's just a screen door, as long as it fits and I like the look, that's pretty much all there is to it, right?

*Going off of search results and quantity, I'll say it's likely a 36x81 since that's a LOT more popular than 36x80.

The Larson kits all have adjustable frames and extenders that fill the gap to the floor. or frame height.
Super easy to install, easy enough for one person, and i've installed 2 in my old place so far.

It really is as easy as the video makes it seem:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYyW_KjNIDc

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Ugh, door chat reminds me i need to have 3 of my 4 exterior doors replaced, since they have the hinges on the outside?

Well, two for that, one because my garage to interior door is a glass window'ed door and that doesn't satisfy fire codes?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Deviant posted:

Ugh, door chat reminds me i need to have 3 of my 4 exterior doors replaced, since they have the hinges on the outside?

Well, two for that, one because my garage to interior door is a glass window'ed door and that doesn't satisfy fire codes?

Did you buy the groverhaus? What the hell

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DrBouvenstein posted:

Yeah, see my post earlier re: re-keying. It's not HARD, but it can be fiddly.

The main reason is just ease of use so that you can have just 1 key for all the doors. Even mid-grade consumer locks aren't that hard to defeat, but even then it's all mostly pointless because if you have ground floor windows they'll just smash them...or just try to break in the door (very easy if no deadbolt, and even with deadbolts not outside the realm of possibility) If someone REALLY wants in, they'll get in.

So you can't really prevent a dedicated person trying to break in, but locks can stop quick "crime of opportunity" types. Some nefarious person walks by, see's something nice through the window (TV, laptop, etc...), no cars in the driveway, and quickly just checks the door if it's unlocked. They don't want attention, so they aren't likely to try and pick or smash a window, so any lock that can stand up to a moderate level of jimmying is fine.

Deviant posted:

Your house is only as secure as your biggest piece of glass.

Yeah, I should be clear: When I talk about "nicer" stuff I'm not talking about "more secure". I'm talking about nicer looking, nicer to operate, marginally more reliable. My comments have nothing to do with security because just lol. Even if you don't have any windows/windows with bars on the first floor it's really easy to get into most houses through things like the actual walls with little more than a battery sawzall. Or a sledge hammer. You don't have to be some kind of lock picking expert.

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

Deviant posted:

Your house is only as secure as your biggest piece of glass.

May I introduce you to stucco cladding without continuous sheathing?


Deviant posted:

Ugh, door chat reminds me i need to have 3 of my 4 exterior doors replaced, since they have the hinges on the outside?

Well, two for that, one because my garage to interior door is a glass window'ed door and that doesn't satisfy fire codes?

In the jurisdictions I am familiar with doors can swing out as long as the landing is properly designed. From a security standpoint, you may be able to address the hinges without changing the door.

Regarding the garage-to-interior door, they are allowed to have glass as long as they meet fire requirements. Maybe your door doesn't meet these requirements, but they do exist.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Tezer posted:

May I introduce you to stucco cladding without continuous sheathing?

I don't know if I'm more bothered by the lack of sheathing or by what looks like random stud spacing.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
A year or so back I saw someone's garage in my city got broken into when thieves sawzalled a hole in the wall that faced the alley. I'm surprised that's not more of a problem considering how cheap and powerful battery powered sawzalls are.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

Deviant posted:

Ugh, door chat reminds me i need to have 3 of my 4 exterior doors replaced, since they have the hinges on the outside?

Well, two for that, one because my garage to interior door is a glass window'ed door and that doesn't satisfy fire codes?

https://youtu.be/KnXOOoYti0o

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

DrBouvenstein posted:

If someone REALLY wants in, they'll get in.

A jewelry store in Albuquerque got broken into my a guy with a chainsaw, who just cut a hole in the wall next to the door.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

toplitzin posted:

The Larson kits all have adjustable frames and extenders that fill the gap to the floor. or frame height.
Super easy to install, easy enough for one person, and i've installed 2 in my old place so far.

It really is as easy as the video makes it seem:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYyW_KjNIDc

Thanks for this. I've been loving with the screen door that was installed on our porch and it's a Larson. The closer was installed all hosed up and I couldn't find paper instructions on how to mount it.

The video shows the bracket for the closer should be 1/4" from the frame, but mine is like 3" away. They had also installed it backwards, and not to mention that they stripped the threads off the holes they drilled on the door side so I had to drill a new set of holes (one screw wasn't enough to hold the bracket tight, so it'd slide around while opening/closing).

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Oct 22, 2021

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Thanks thread, for reminding me I need to call the duct cleaning company to let them know I don't need their dryer vent cleaning services :coolspot:

In other news, got the quote back for redoing my hosed up fireplace: $11,500. Yup, that's... probably never gonna happen. gently caress I'm pissed off at my POs

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Johnny Truant posted:

Thanks thread, for reminding me I need to call the duct cleaning company to let them know I don't need their dryer vent cleaning services :coolspot:

In other news, got the quote back for redoing my hosed up fireplace: $11,500. Yup, that's... probably never gonna happen. gently caress I'm pissed off at my POs

Like all construction/contractors right now, chimney/fireplace guys are going nuts. Add to that the time of year and yeah, that's how you got that quote. It will likely get better, especially in the spring when they don't have as much work.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Motronic posted:

Like all construction/contractors right now, chimney/fireplace guys are going nuts. Add to that the time of year and yeah, that's how you got that quote. It will likely get better, especially in the spring when they don't have as much work.

Yup, the two guys that came out to inspect everything said as much. I could maybe get the price down a bit if they weren't trying to save the mantel and the "tiling" that the POs decorated the fireplace with.

Was really hoping that could be our one Big Project for next year, but maybe it'll be next next year :sigh:

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


Johnny Truant posted:

Was really hoping that could be our one Big Project for next year, but maybe it'll be next next year :sigh:

First winter in a house you’ll probably find a different Big Project soon enough

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




BadSamaritan posted:

First winter in a house you’ll probably find a different Big Project soon enough

:ohdear:

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Speaking of storm doors, when measuring for a replacement, you measure the door itself, not the trim, hinges, etc? I want to replace mine but it seems like it's an odd size (79.5 x 34.75).

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Inside edges of the door frame.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Deviant posted:

Ugh, door chat reminds me i need to have 3 of my 4 exterior doors replaced, since they have the hinges on the outside?

Well, two for that, one because my garage to interior door is a glass window'ed door and that doesn't satisfy fire codes?

If you're just worried about someone popping the hinge pins out and removing the door that way, something like this is way cheaper then getting the door replaced!

Bingo Bango
Jan 7, 2020

I'm trying to figure out what's going on here with our porch light from the PO. I thought it was just missing a bulb, but I can't find anything close to matching this shape and size and now I'm not even sure if this is the socket for it or if the socket is missing (which would not be the first fixture in the house with this problem). I'm a complete lighting novice, so I've had a hard time even know what I should be googling for.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

Bingo Bango posted:

I'm trying to figure out what's going on here with our porch light from the PO. I thought it was just missing a bulb, but I can't find anything close to matching this shape and size and now I'm not even sure if this is the socket for it or if the socket is missing (which would not be the first fixture in the house with this problem). I'm a complete lighting novice, so I've had a hard time even know what I should be googling for.



That's a plug-in CFL socket, looks to be a 2-pin G24 but I can't decipher exactly which type it is.

https://www.aisledlight.com/g24-led-bulb-use-g24-led-lamp/
https://www.1000bulbs.com/fil/categories/18-watt-2-pin-g24d2-plug-in-compact-fluorescents

Apparently you can buy adapters for that socket if you want to use a regular A19 LED bulb

Bingo Bango
Jan 7, 2020

FCKGW posted:

That's a plug-in CFL socket, looks to be a 2-pin G24 but I can't decipher exactly which type it is.

https://www.aisledlight.com/g24-led-bulb-use-g24-led-lamp/
https://www.1000bulbs.com/fil/categories/18-watt-2-pin-g24d2-plug-in-compact-fluorescents

Apparently you can buy adapters for that socket if you want to use a regular A19 LED bulb

Thanks! I have never had a fixture with a bulb like that so I was totally lost

incogneato
Jun 4, 2007

Zoom! Swish! Bang!
Kitchen sink/faucet replacement question from a complete newbie.



We dislike the kitchen sink set up in the house we bought and we're looking to change...something. The garbage disposal is on the smaller right side, and the faucet doesn't reach well over there. We end up rarely using the larger side, and honestly would just prefer a single large basin. Also this sink is set wrong or something, because it doesn't drain well, leaving sitting water especially in the large basin.

Without knowing anything about this stuff, I assume (perhaps incorrectly) that our options are:

(1) Just replace the faucet with one that can reach or pull out to get to that right side easier. This is definitely the simplest, but doesn't fix our general dislike of the sink set up.

(2) Move the garbage disposal to the larger left side. We'd pay someone to do this for us, and may as well replace the faucet at the same time. The smaller right side probably would rarely be used after that, though.

(3) Replace the entire sink (and faucet) to a larger single basin (we'd pay a professional to do it). This is the route we were considering while wandering Home Depot. However, we quickly realized our current sink is 38" edge to edge, which appears to be an odd size. Is there a reasonable fix for this (or am I perhaps measuring the wrong aspect)? I don't really want to shell out $Texas for a custom sized sink.

Our first choice is definitely new sink + faucet. But I'm worried the odd size of our current sink will make that more expensive than it's worth to us. Is there another solution or way to fit in a slightly smaller sink?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Man, I remember when those were super chic; the idea was prep vegetables on the right, wash stuff on the left.

Anyway, a 39" farmhouse sink, a 37" you might be able to fudge depending on the opening, a 37 7/8 ditto. I don't know what your countertop/cabinet setup is like, and how much leeway you have to enlarge or diminish the opening.

Go here and see what you think. 35" and above.

We've had two different Moen pull-down faucets, the ones with a spring above the faucet and a pull-down head, and they are wonderful. You can fill up the tallest pot, and when you need to spray things, you get the full force of the water stream. There are many subtle variants on this design; we got ours from Costco in the mid-$300, IIRC. Worth every penny, if you've got that many.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I really like our double basin. One side for rinsing and one side for letting stuff dry off. However we have a detachable hose faucet so you could like, you know, actually reach things.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Can you daisy chain junction boxes? I bought some retrofit canless LED lights and their junction boxes can only fit two ends of romex. I have two lights with four ends so my thought was to take a length of romex out of the light box and into one rated for four cables and set them both on top of the drywall.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Fallom posted:

Can you daisy chain junction boxes? I bought some retrofit canless LED lights and their junction boxes can only fit two ends of romex. I have two lights with four ends so my thought was to take a length of romex out of the light box and into one rated for four cables and set them both on top of the drywall.

I'm not 100% sure I follow but if you're just saying that you have two lamps you want to daisy chain but they're too small for you to be able to do it directly then yes, run to a junction box and then split from there to connect to both of them. That's what junction boxes are for.

Ed: There's no reason I know of that you can't put the junction box in between the two lights, if that's what you mean. It's just a box so you don't have exposed splices :shrug:

Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Oct 25, 2021

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Technically that junction box has to be accessible after you close everything up. If this is in your attic mount it to a joist above the insulation.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

Anyone put down lvp flooring themselves? It doesn't look too bad but the quotes I've gotten are rough for the install though that may be just Seattle prices

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

FuzzySlippers posted:

Anyone put down lvp flooring themselves? It doesn't look too bad but the quotes I've gotten are rough for the install though that may be just Seattle prices

I've done a bathroom and a kitchen. Installation is not difficult and absolutely a DIY job, but (as with most things) you need to plan it out, do the right prep work, and take your time. My bathroom (~50 sq ft) took an afternoon; the kitchen (~250 sq ft) a month worth of weekends.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


I did my ~800 sq ft basement last summer. Took a few weeks of an hour here, two hours there to get it done but not too bad. I had installed probably 2-3k sq ft of various laminate and LVP snap together floors previously so I had at least a little experience. I did my 100 SQ ft dining room in a couple of hours a month ago.

After my basement flooded this recent summer thanks to contractor negligence and their insurance was paying for everything, two pros did the entire floor in about two hours. Lol at the diy skill set compared to actual pros.

It's not a hard job and doesn't really require any specialized tools beyond the edge puller bar thing, a plastic or wood block to tap the boards together as necessary, and an undercutting saw to cut under door jams where necessary to get the flooring underneath. As with most everything, prep is key to a good finish, so make sure your floor is good and level beforehand.

brugroffil fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Oct 25, 2021

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I'm not concerned about security the doors are just old, and in rough shape, and it's tricky to get deliveries when the door opens out into them. Though it is really nice to be able to open the door into solicitors.

Bingo Bango
Jan 7, 2020

FuzzySlippers posted:

Anyone put down lvp flooring themselves? It doesn't look too bad but the quotes I've gotten are rough for the install though that may be just Seattle prices

It's not that bad, I just did pretty much my entire house over the course of a few weekends with nothing more than common sense and watching some YouTube tutorials. If you have uneven floors or walls then you might be dealing with more of a headache, but it's still doable.

Do get yourself an edge puller though, I wrecked my hands with pulling the boards into place. Decent knee pads are also essential.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Bingo Bango posted:

Do get yourself an edge puller though, I wrecked my hands with pulling the boards into place. Decent knee pads are also essential.

LVP is super easy, but you def want good knee pads and the install kit with the puller bar and a rubber mallet.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I was gonna replace a lamp in my workshop with some LED armatures and when I removed the cover to the compact CFL lamp that's there now I see this:


Looks like the electrician decided to use the armature as a junction box while he was at it.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

FuzzySlippers posted:

Anyone put down lvp flooring themselves? It doesn't look too bad but the quotes I've gotten are rough for the install though that may be just Seattle prices
How complex is it? I did an entire tiny house where it connected all rooms (kitchen, bathroom, living room, 2 bedrooms, closets, etc), where everything connected seamlessly. This was a challenge, but quite do-able as a DIY. you really have to think it out (where to start, how far to offset tiles, etc). The entire house was done during lunch breaks and after hours, took a few weeks onesey twosey.

In a later house I did a small rectangular bathroom.This I did in 1 day and just powered through.

90% of your time will be measuring twice, cutting, you need to setup a completely separate area for that, you can't have the sawdust near the tiles or they won't fit together properly - the edges and floor need to be kept very clean.

When you're lucky enough to install a piece that needs no cuts you'll be super happy, that part takes 1minute, each other one takes, idk, 15mins? And that's almost all of them unless its one huge open room.


Enos Cabell posted:

LVP is super easy, but you def want good knee pads and the install kit with the puller bar and a rubber mallet.

This install kit should also have a plastic edge tool thing that lets you hit it with the mallet, so you dont disturb the grooves.

Basically you're going to be measuring, marking, and cutting tiles constantly. You need to have a Jig saw and a bunch of blades as they'll go dull quickly, making it much harder.

Additionally, if going around a door, you may want to get an Oscillating saw, i used it to cut off pieces under the door jamb while leaving the around-door trim on.

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Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
If a contractor asks "would you happen to have a set of plans" what are they asking for? This is for a re-roof, where there's been a leak so framing might be damaged. I don't have any documentation for this house, but is that something I can get? Is there someone who draws plans for a job like this? If I know the dimensions of framing members, is that what they're looking for?

If anyone is following my saga this is a separate roof so unrelated to the other issues. God I love home ownership.

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