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Speaking of roofs, I've discovered that mine may need replacing. Debate continues with the insurance company, but should I have to come out of pocket, are there any good financing options? Looking at personal loans, HELOC, home improvement loans, but i'm unclear on what the best choice would be. I'll be offsetting a good chunk of this with my savings and the money the insurance company does cough up, but I don't mind paying a little interest to reduce the sticker shock over time.
Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 19:20
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Question about baseboard trim/painting! So I had my entire first floor floor redone, which meant ripping out the terrible baseboard trim the POs hosed up when they installed it. This means I'm left with my first floor looking like this:     So this brings me to my actual question: what's the best way to go about fixing this? Fuckhead POs used absurdly large trim, 7.5" if I'm recalling correctly, which I am... not going to replicate. So my trim will be shorter than the damage to the walls that the previous trim did upon removal. I'm guessing that I will be using a lot of drywall compound to cover this damage up, but also have no idea if there's something better to do, or if drywalling over these spots is bad, or what. 
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Oct 25, 2021 19:56
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That's not the end of the world. It's a pain and it looks like poo poo, but it's not that bad. 0. Mask off your floor. Everything you keep off of it is something you don't have to vacuum out of it later. 1. Use a 4" knife to scrape down all those visible seams. Also remove any loose material. Pull off the little bits of paper. Use a utility knife to cut out any ripped paper or cracked areas of drywall, you'll fill them with mud later. Cutting out an area and filling it back in is way better for a durable result than just mudding over damaged or loose material. It doesn't look like you need to replace or re-do any of the corner beads. 2. Use an oil based primer to seal anywhere that brown drywall paper is visible. I like Kilz in a spray can. Sealing this paper stops bubbles in later steps. 3. Use drywall compound to build up the areas that need it. I'd get a bag of hot mud for building up those corners because it doesn't shrink as much when you apply it. You can also mix some elmers/pva glue 50/50 with water and add some of that to the mix, it'll make it stick better. That's not necessary though. You don't have to use hot mud. It tends to be harder to sand. Some people never use hot mud. I'd use it because it feels more convenient to be able to do multiple coats in a day and get the corners built up vs. with the pre-mix you have to wait and also you can only apply it so thick and still have it dry out. 4. Use a lightweight premix for the top coats. Feather out the edges just like you would when you're doing normal drywall intstallation. In steps 3 and 4 you can put less effort in below the height of your new trim. 5. Sand using a drywall sanding block. Just get it good enough. Remember: None of this is anywhere near eye level. No one but you will ever, ever notice any mistakes. 6. Are you going to be putting the texture back on? If so, experiment with spray texture until you get a match you're happy with. Assuming you don't have a texturing spray gun you can get spray texture in a can at the hardware store. Do your experimenting on a scrap of drywall or plywood. Note that when you're applying your spray texture to the wall you'll have a transition area where your smooth sanded compound blends into the already textured wall. This won't texture up exactly the same as the smooth compound does. Apply it. It usually won't match exactly, but it might. Best tip is learn not to care so much. Again, this is all at ground level and looks like behind furniture. Close enough is totally good enough. 7. Prime 8. Install baseboard and paint Sous Videodrome fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 20:33
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Sous Videodrome posted:amazing advice  Thank you for these instructions!I already have an 18lb bag of 90-minute hot mud, so I'm glad I don't need something specific for this task! I'm 100% not going to be putting the texture back in, thank gently caress. A few follow-up questions for you: 1) By "lightweight premix for the top coats" you mean for the final coats of compound, correct? Why do you suggest using a premix for the top coats? 2) Why does the brown drywall paper need an oil-based primer? I'm nervous about using a spray can cause I feel like that'd be super messy? 3) I have never done normal drywall installation, could you elaborate on "feather out the edges just like you would.." please? And a not really specific to my situation question: I thought since I already have the trim off, it'd be easiest to paint before I install the baseboards? Drywall issues not withstanding, I was thinking my process would basically be like prime walls, paint walls, install baseboard, paint any focal points that need it? I was going to buy pre-primed baseboard trim and then paint it before I was installing it because I thought that would be the easiest and most efficient way to do it. Thoughts? I'll also probably be piecemealing this job over some weekends, if that makes any difference? Sous Videodrome posted:It's a pain and it looks like poo poo No need to describe literally every single thing my POs did, drat 
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Oct 25, 2021 20:48
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Johnny Truant posted:1) By "lightweight premix for the top coats" you mean for the final coats of compound, correct? Why do you suggest using a premix for the top coats? Just because it's easier to sand than the hot mud, which means it's less effort to get to a flat enough finish for paint. You don't have to use premix just like you don't have to use hot mud. But usually people at least use premix for the top coats because it's easier to finish sand. quote:2) Why does the brown drywall paper need an oil-based primer? I'm nervous about using a spray can cause I feel like that'd be super messy? The exposed brown drywall paper will absorb moisture from the drywall mud and separate from the drywall underneath and bubble up. If that happens you can use a utility knife to cut out the bubble and fill it back in with mud. But it's easier to avoid it by sealing it. It doesn't happen all the time, so if you really don't want to bother sealing it then don't. But you might get bubbles that you have to deal with. In terms of the mess it'll be fine, especially because you will have masked off the floor before starting. The kilz spray goes on a little thin and runny, so just watch the amount you're putting on the wall. The spray pattern is just a few inches across, it's not too hard to control. If you're worried experiment on some scrap outside before you try spraying it on your walls indoors. quote:3) I have never done normal drywall installation, could you elaborate on "feather out the edges just like you would.." please? So when you apply drywall compound, you're using a knife (or a trowel) to put it on the wall. You apply usually 3 coats. First one covers a small width, second one a wider area, and the third one is like 8-12" wide. Your wall never ends up completely flat but you try to make the changes in height (depth?) so gradual that they are imperceptible in the lighting you've got. If you've got wider knives you can use them for those steps but if you don't want to buy a bunch of different drywall knives you can get by with just a 4" or a 6". Anyway, you aren't going to put the mud on completely flat. You're not applying it with a uniform thickness. You use the angle of the knife and pressure to apply it a little thinner towards the outer edge. To "feather your edge" means that you pressed the knife onto the wall in such a way that the very edge of your mud is imperceptibly thin and ideally doesn't need further sanding. You pressed the outside edge of the knife down harder than the inside edge. Being able to do this is a skill that you just won't have on your first drywall job. That's fine. Just do your best when applying it and plan on sanding off any seams before you prime and paint. quote:And a not really specific to my situation question: I thought since I already have the trim off, it'd be easiest to paint before I install the baseboards? Drywall issues not withstanding, I was thinking my process would basically be like prime walls, paint walls, install baseboard, paint any focal points that need it? I was going to buy pre-primed baseboard trim and then paint it before I was installing it because I thought that would be the easiest and most efficient way to do it. Thoughts? I'll also probably be piecemealing this job over some weekends, if that makes any difference? Yeah, go ahead and paint the wall before you install the baseboard if they are different colors. Thoughts about the baseboard: You can for sure paint it before you install it. BUT: If you nail it on, you'll need to fill in the nail or brad holes and paint over them. I guess you can just glue baseboard on, I haven't tried that myself. Also, the walls won't be perfectly straight. That means your baseboard will inevitably have gaps between the top of the baseboard and the wall. If you want to get rid of those you need to caulk between the baseboard and the wall. Then you need to paint over the caulk. You usually don't want to leave exposed caulk because it will yellow or otherwise discolor over time, even if it looks good when you install it. Caulk is just for filling gaps, it's not meant to be a finish. So you shouldn't plan on not having to touch the baseboard at all after getting it on the wall. quote:No need to describe literally every single thing my POs did, drat lol
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Oct 25, 2021 21:08
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Amazing, thank you for all that advice! Especially about the caulking tip and how it should be painted - I definitely did not know that at all.
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Oct 25, 2021 21:26
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Sous Videodrome posted:To "feather your edge" means that you pressed the knife onto the wall in such a way that the very edge of your mud is imperceptibly thin and ideally doesn't need further sanding. You pressed the outside edge of the knife down harder than the inside edge. Being able to do this is a skill that you just won't have on your first drywall job. That's fine. Just do your best when applying it and plan on sanding off any seams before you prime and paint. OHHH. I always tried to feather the edge by scraping with a lighter and lighter touch, rather than by simply pressing the knife at a steep angle. Now I know.
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Oct 25, 2021 21:31
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Wallet posted:I'm not 100% sure I follow but if you're just saying that you have two lamps you want to daisy chain but they're too small for you to be able to do it directly then yes, run to a junction box and then split from there to connect to both of them. That's what junction boxes are for. Since it'll be a junction box hardwired to the LED fixture going to another junction box right next to it I thought it might get weird but I guess that's really just a standard thing. These are in a basement so the junction boxes will just sit loosely on top of the drywall and be accessible through the 5.75" hole for the fixture. Apparently that's OK for these canless LED fixtures. Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 03:27
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Someone earlier had asked about “wood-look” vinyl planks. I just finished installing about 1200 sq ft of just that. A lot of the cheaper stuff doesn’t look like wood to me, it looks like a wood pattern printed on a piece of vinyl. Most of them don’t even bother matching up the textures on the surface with the printed pattern and that just draws my attention immediately. You have to make sure it’s going to look like wood to you since you’ll be living with it. I went with Coretek XL Virtue Oak. These planks are 9” wide, 72” long, and a hefty 12mm thick with a cork underlayment attached. This stuff was more expensive than some hardwood floors but it has a very durable wear layer and it is 100% waterproof. Installation is easy, tapping block, pulling bar, and a hammer are all you need to install it. Of course you need something to cut it with. We also installed some vinyl planks that look like tile and at 12” by 24” they were a breeze to handle after that heavy stuff. Installation was the same but you have to use a brick pattern for the tile instead of a random pattern like the wood-look.  That chopper is available at big box hardware stores for about $180 and if you’re installing a lot of plank flooring (vinyl or laminate) it can chop through any of it up to 13” wide. I’d recommend it if you’re doing more than 1 room.
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Oct 26, 2021 17:48
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Thanks for the responses on the flooring! This looks like it won't be too bad. I had another question: anyone installed a bathtub heater or a tankless just for a bathtub? We've got a reasonably sized water heater but it can barely keep up with my wife's current bath and she is wanting a larger one. Since the water heater is electric it seems better to get something to specifically help heat her bath rather than upgrade the entire house's water heater. I did find some bathtubs with heaters built in but couldn't find one that suited her other needs or fit in the space.
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Oct 27, 2021 07:27
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Johnny Truant posted:
Gustof Stickley used 12-18in QS* boards for baseboard trim. If it was good enough for him, its good enough for you. Seriously, follow the drywall advice below, it looks good. Drywall repair is annoying but it isn't hard. Wear a mask when you sand. *Goddamn, I wish I could get 18in QS boards. gently caress.
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Oct 27, 2021 09:38
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FuzzySlippers posted:Thanks for the responses on the flooring! This looks like it won't be too bad. I can't imagine how expensive electric water heaters are in general, and then tacking on yet another electric heater for one tub? I would take this opportunity to replace the whole house heater with an on-demand small gas one. The units themselves aren't that expensive but the install labour and exhaust pipes can be.
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Oct 27, 2021 12:19
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FuzzySlippers posted:I had another question: anyone installed a bathtub heater or a tankless just for a bathtub? We've got a reasonably sized water heater but it can barely keep up with my wife's current bath and she is wanting a larger one. Since the water heater is electric it seems better to get something to specifically help heat her bath rather than upgrade the entire house's water heater. I did find some bathtubs with heaters built in but couldn't find one that suited her other needs or fit in the space. I assume by 'electric' you mean it is a tank-style electric water heater. The problem you have now is with volume - filling the bathtub drains the tank. The issue you will will have with a tankless is rate - you need to get a water heater that can meet the gallons per minute draw rate of the tub filler. A bathtub is the largest hot water volume and the largest hot water rate user in the average home, so any solution that is designed for a bathtub will be a 'large' solution. Put in a bigger tank, put in a new tankless, both are reasonable solutions.
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Oct 27, 2021 13:19
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Another option is to crank up the temp on the water heater and install a mixing valve downstream of its output. Many WHs are set to 120F or so from the factory to prevent scalding kids. If you up that to 140F, you get significantly more hot water (mixed at the tub) before it runs out. You can actually try this for free by cranking it up without installing the mixing valve. As long as you don't have kids that can injure themselves, it might be worth seeing if that gives you enough hot water before installing the valve.
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Oct 27, 2021 13:58
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nm posted:Gustof Stickley used 12-18in QS* boards for baseboard trim. If it was good enough for him, its good enough for you. That would be better than what it was: Johnny Truant posted:Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this: Regarding drywall sanding/dust: do I need anything more than an N95? I was reading about taping off as much as you can cause the poo poo gets everywhere, so I'm def going to look into some thicker plastic tarps. Do I need a HEPA filter for my shop vac?
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Oct 27, 2021 14:10
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I don’t understand a thermostatic mixing valve at all. What’s the benefit over just…. Mixing cold and hot water at the tub? My 50 gal gas tank runs out using the bath too. I solve it by running the tub filler at maybe 50% max volume. It takes a long time (like 20+ min) to fill the tub but it guarantees I have some more hot water for a shower or whatever once the tub is full.
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Oct 27, 2021 14:54
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Inner Light posted:I don’t understand a thermostatic mixing valve at all. What’s the benefit over just…. Mixing cold and hot water at the tub? You have to mix in less 140 degree water than you do 120 degree water to get a nice 98 degree bath temp. Your 50gal of 140F water will make you more 98F bath water.
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Oct 27, 2021 15:23
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Inner Light posted:I don’t understand a thermostatic mixing valve at all. What’s the benefit over just…. Mixing cold and hot water at the tub? Safety. You don't have the possibility of 140 degree water coming out of taps.
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Oct 27, 2021 16:07
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 Hello thread - what we have here is a 3 inch hole in some very poorly done asphalt (if this pile of black rocks even qualifies as asphalt). This is right where our trash bins are, and is definitely a rat hole. I live in Toronto so it will soon also be a snow and water hole. 3 things I would rather keep outside. This leads to the cold room in our basement - just painted cement in there. House is 100 years old and haven't seen any signs of water in our two years of living here, but still, this is not ideal. We have plans to get this whole lovely patch job fixed next year - any thoughts on what I should do in the meantime? My wife lost her job (and got in a no fault / no injuries accident that wrote off our car!) the same week our kid started daycare, so, we don't have any goddamn money right now.
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Oct 27, 2021 16:58
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DirtyCheeseburgers posted:Hello thread - what we have here is a 3 inch hole in some very poorly done asphalt (if this pile of black rocks even qualifies as asphalt). This is right where our trash bins are, and is definitely a rat hole. I live in Toronto so it will soon also be a snow and water hole. 3 things I would rather keep outside. This leads to the cold room in our basement - just painted cement in there. House is 100 years old and haven't seen any signs of water in our two years of living here, but still, this is not ideal. We have plans to get this whole lovely patch job fixed next year - any thoughts on what I should do in the meantime? My wife lost her job (and got in a no fault / no injuries accident that wrote off our car!) the same week our kid started daycare, so, we don't have any goddamn money right now. I would mix up a soupy (wetter than ideal) batch of mortar mix and pour it into the hole until it fills. Enlarge the entrance to the hole if necessary to get it to pour in. A 50lb sack should be less than $10.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:23
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Motronic posted:Safety. You don't have the possibility of 140 degree water coming out of taps. Do you put the valve inline at your water heaters? So the only place the water is 140 is at the tank?
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Oct 27, 2021 17:23
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dalstrs posted:Do you put the valve inline at your water heaters? So the only place the water is 140 is at the tank? Correct. You get extra hot water without the risk of anyone being burned by only opening the hot tap.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:26
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Thanks all I'll try to adjust the settings.falz posted:I can't imagine how expensive electric water heaters are in general, and then tacking on yet another electric heater for one tub? I wish I could get gas into the house for less than tens of thousands. As it is we're electric everything
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Oct 27, 2021 18:50
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FuzzySlippers posted:Thanks all I'll try to adjust the settings. What general region is this? Just curious.
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Oct 27, 2021 19:00
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falz posted:What general region is this? Just curious. Seattle. I don't think it's rare as our old rental house had gas but just not the street we bought a house on. If we didn't have a lot of renters near by I might try to coordinate something.
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Oct 27, 2021 19:09
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I don't know anything about thermodynamics or energy but I've always wondered if there was some way to put a little extra heat in the cold water rather than trying to make the hot water even hotter. In the winter here the "cold" water is around 35 degrees, It seems like mixing 140 tank water with 35 cold water to get to 98 degrees at the tap would use more energy than mixing 120 tank water with cold water that's been heated to 55 degrees to get to 98 at the tap. I'll have to look at a thermostatic mixing valve though, my water heater is set around 140ish now and we don't have kids but occasionally I gently caress up and turn the tap all the way to "hot" to wash my hands and let it run so long it actually gives me the full 140 degree water and I get a nice little surprise. But any cooler and we have trouble taking showers in the winter.
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Oct 27, 2021 19:26
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FISHMANPET posted:I don't know anything about thermodynamics or energy but I've always wondered if there was some way to put a little extra heat in the cold water rather than trying to make the hot water even hotter. In the winter here the "cold" water is around 35 degrees, It seems like mixing 140 tank water with 35 cold water to get to 98 degrees at the tap would use more energy than mixing 120 tank water with cold water that's been heated to 55 degrees to get to 98 at the tap. The specific heat of water in its liquid phase is the same, no matter the temperature. In fact, the energy required to raise 1 gram of water 1C (no matter the starting point) is how we define a calorie. In practice, the heat loss of hotter water through the insulated tank would be higher, so there would be theoretical advantages to keeping the temp lower and mixing warmer water. However, you don't want warm water, or rather don't care, for many uses like toilets, so that would be wasted. What you really want is to reclaim some of the waste heat of water going down the drain. These exist: https://www.buildwithrise.com/stories/are-drain-water-heat-recovery-systems-worth-it
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Oct 27, 2021 20:43
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B-Nasty posted:The specific heat of water in its liquid phase is the same, no matter the temperature. In fact, the energy required to raise 1 gram of water 1C (no matter the starting point) is how we define a calorie. In practice, the heat loss of hotter water through the insulated tank would be higher, so there would be theoretical advantages to keeping the temp lower and mixing warmer water. However, you don't want warm water, or rather don't care, for many uses like toilets, so that would be wasted. That's neat. With the cost of labor around here I assume the installation would be insane though. I've done a little plumbing (installed a couple sinks, disposal, instant hot taps, etc) but this seems like professional territory.
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Oct 27, 2021 22:04
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B-Nasty posted:The specific heat of water in its liquid phase is the same, no matter the temperature. In fact, the energy required to raise 1 gram of water 1C (no matter the starting point) is how we define a calorie. In practice, the heat loss of hotter water through the insulated tank would be higher, so there would be theoretical advantages to keeping the temp lower and mixing warmer water. However, you don't want warm water, or rather don't care, for many uses like toilets, so that would be wasted. this is not actually true. see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity and you should be thinking in joules: https://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C7732185&Type=JANAFL&Plot=on#JANAFL or some discussion of the definition of the calorie depending on reference temperature, here: https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/60321/why-a-specific-temperature-for-value-of-1-calorie and here: https://books.google.com/books?id=j...calorie&f=false anyway, the prior poster's intuition is more or less correct: you can see how Cp slopes up strongly at temperatures > 340 K. I have no comments regarding a particular engineering implementation.
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Oct 27, 2021 22:37
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pmchem posted:this is not actually true. see: This is all well and good or whatever, but 340K is like 150F, and the difference in that chart between the lowest point and literal boiling temperature is like 1%, which is like gently caress all in possible ways to save energy and the difference between 120f and 140f is going to be even smaller. About as useful as going around telling everyone liquids are compressible But I suppose technically correct is the best kind of correct
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Oct 27, 2021 23:12
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gwrtheyrn posted:This is all well and good or whatever, but 340K is like 150F, and the difference in that chart between the lowest point and literal boiling temperature is like 1%, which is like gently caress all in possible ways to save energy and the difference between 120f and 140f is going to be even smaller. About as useful as going around telling everyone liquids are compressible chill out a bit. I saw a blanket statement about heat capacity that, well, was just not true and thought a forum of internet nerds might be interested in a little information about thermodynamics and how the calorie is defined, since the topic was brought up. I don't really care about particular approaches to heating water here.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:18
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Really love this faucet hookup in my small bathroom. I never really noticed how loving crazy it was installed by the ‘professionals’ until I removed the vanity. Like what was the end goal here?
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Oct 27, 2021 23:58
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Bought and moving into my first ever house and obviously there are a few projects that I would like to do but adding solar to our roof is pretty high on the list. The house is only 15 years old so I'm not worried about the roof needing to be replaced anytime soon, all the inspections show everything is in great shape, . Curious if the solar panels need to be removed to replace the roof down the line or can everything be worked around? Anybody have any experience with this?
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Oct 28, 2021 01:19
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Really love this faucet hookup in my small bathroom. I never really noticed how loving crazy it was installed by the ‘professionals’ until I removed the vanity. Lol so they ran pvc and angled it up, and then added the valves? Level with the P-trap? What kind of sink was this?
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Oct 28, 2021 02:08
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Rythe posted:Bought and moving into my first ever house and obviously there are a few projects that I would like to do but adding solar to our roof is pretty high on the list. The house is only 15 years old so I'm not worried about the roof needing to be replaced anytime soon, all the inspections show everything is in great shape, . Dealing with this right now. We had to pay to have the panels removed so we can get the roof redone. Insurance covered the cost of removal and eventual reinstallation since the roof repair was covered as well.
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Oct 28, 2021 03:51
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Phil Moscowitz posted:Lol so they ran pvc and angled it up, and then added the valves? Level with the P-trap? What kind of sink was this? Just a little 24in vanity, nothing crazy. I’m gonna cut them down to something a little more reasonable.
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Oct 28, 2021 04:03
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Is that even code-complaint? Like...I do believe there is PVC rated for incoming/potable water, but are those they? Or is it just "drain-rated" PVC that got tacked on the end of the existing pipe?
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Oct 28, 2021 14:52
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Sorta garage door question. I have a liftmaster. The 'open' button is next to the human door, but the sensor in it to auto turn on the light never does so when you reach your hand in there, and its too dark (and there are stairs). I wan to add 'just a motion sensor' that is 'pointed' at the human door so as soon as you open it, the light turns on. I can't find just that, but only this thing which seems overly complex: https://www.liftmaster.com/wi-fi-motion-detecting-control-panel-with-timer-to-close/p/G881LM Anyone aware of a way to directly wire a motion detector to one of these, or some workaround?
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Oct 28, 2021 18:21
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What model garage door unit? I did something similar recently, but was adding MyQ functionality to an older garage door. The new control panel had the motion sensor on it. I think you have the right idea, you might need to be careful as to which control panel you get since compatibility may not be obvious. I think there’s a simple control panel that only has the motion sensor, but I’ll need to look. Edit: the 886LM looks like a simpler version with only the motion sensor, but if you have an older door opener you might need to go with an 889LM. They publish compatibility charts like this one: https://p.widencdn.net/nkm2rb/CX3131 Note that this chart looks to be a little older, the 888LM has been replaced by the 889LM now. smax fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 18:26
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A word of warning, the 888LM and 889LM are a bit of a shitshow. I think the 888LM had bad capacitors, to the point where if you had one you could get a voucher from Liftmaster to get a free 889LM replacement. And between the original 888LM I got, the warranty replacement they sent me when I couldn't get it to work with my supposedly compatible, and then the free 889LM, I haven't been able to get any of them to actually work with my door. I ended up just buying a new opener that had MyQ built in because that was way less hassle than fighting with that drat 888/889 nonsense yet again. And now my new opener has motion detection in the wall panel, so as soon as I open the door and put my foot through the door the light turns on.
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Oct 28, 2021 18:42
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