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Xyven posted:That's called add on. Eliminates are outdoor problems where some holds or useable features are declared off route. In my experience removing hold after hold from a given problem is called knock out. Starting on a problem and adding in moves from another adjacent problems is Addon 🤷♂️
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Oct 30, 2021 13:21
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Sab669 posted:In my experience removing hold after hold from a given problem is called knock out. Eliminates are specifically a type of outdoor problem and not really a game. Like this line is V3 if you use the jug, V7 if you do not, things like that. A lot of people hate them because of how contrived they feel, and it's often just people trying to tailor a problem to themselves so they can claim a grade. It gets pretty popular in areas where there aren't many hard lines because the rock has a lot of features. Probably helps to pad out a guide book too. On the spray wall I guess it'd be if you stood there telling someone that almost every hold on the wall was off and then the V15 part would be if they could figure out which holds were left to use.
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Oct 30, 2021 13:32
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I think I might have misread things. I have gotten a whopping 9 hours of sleep combined over the last few days 😴
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Oct 30, 2021 14:20
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Whew. Was on a 4 day climbing trip to Cooper's Rock in West Virginia with like 2 dozen people from my gym, just got home last night. Unfortunately it rained nearly the entire time, so 1 day we just went to a local gym which was actually awesome. Great setting, even the V1's and 2's were fun to climb whereas at my gym they're virtually always just boring jug ladders. And it's always fun to just get to experience new holds. My gym doesn't have any pockets so that was cool to use. The next day we said gently caress it let's just go and see what we can find. There were 2 great caves that were perfectly sheltered from the rain. Sadly no send videos but this one was pretty fun; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xYhM8psr9k My shoes unfortunately got really wet while moving from A to B, but honestly climbing barefoot on this one felt fine. My shoes aren't very aggressive, so being able to crimp with my toes really helped around 20 seconds in  Is there a way on Mountain Project to filter out routes based on the grade? I wanted to try and find the problems we were working on, but it would take forever to click through all the regions and scroll through the list of problems e; Oh I found it. That one is called Helicopter Sab669 fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Nov 1, 2021 |
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Nov 1, 2021 15:43
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Use the route finder on MP, trim down the grades, trim down the location. Here are all the V2's sorted by difficulty and then area: https://www.mountainproject.com/rou...ting&sort2=area E: Lol the mid climb pause for beta.
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Nov 1, 2021 20:30
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Does anyone have much experience putting stuff up on mountain project? I've been going out to this area with no guide book and basically no information on MP, and I'd like to get some stuff up on there so other people start climbing in the area. If nothing else so I spend less of my time scraping moss off holds. The problem at the moment is there're something like 7 or 8 "regions" according to the guy developing it we've talked to, but we've only managed to find 3, and MP only has 1. There're no real trails going out to the areas either, so my plan was to use GaiaGPS to plot some likely paths to get out to places and then post those with pictures of the main boulder and gps coordinates and whatever lines I can figure out from ancient instagram posts. Just annoying since all the climbs are already named supposedly with FAs etc, since they're "working" on a guide book. But they've been working on it like 5+ years. This is the place on MP now. The problem with the MP thing is that it basically only has V0-V3s, so when you're like "Hey I'm going to McGee you want to check it out?" everyone says no since there ain't poo poo there to climb, apparently. Even though there're a bunch of high quality V4-V9 boulders all over the place, they just aren't documented anywhere. It's definitely the best bouldering near Dallas, which is an astoundingly low bar, tbf, but still it deserves better.
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Nov 1, 2021 21:33
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KingColliwog posted:I thought eliminates are when you take a route and then remove a hold each time? What we do is usually called +1 I think? One guy gives the starting holds, then the other one add one move, then the other guy adds another move and so on Includimates then? M. Night Skymall posted:Just annoying since all the climbs are already named supposedly with FAs etc, since they're "working" on a guide book. That's frustrating. If someone can't be arsed to record a first ascent publicly then they can't really deny someone else's claim. There are lines in the UK that have been first ascended a couple of times. Sometimes because they get lost to ivy after a crag goes through an unfashionable phase, or because the first ascensionists were crap at describing them, or because they were so wild nobody repeated it and everyone forgot the line existed for a decade or two. You could post it on https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/ which actually has some coverage in the states, oddly. Give everything three stars and there'll be a crowd there in no time.
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Nov 1, 2021 22:16
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M. Night Skymall posted:Does anyone have much experience putting stuff up on mountain project? I've been going out to this area with no guide book and basically no information on MP, and I'd like to get some stuff up on there so other people start climbing in the area. If nothing else so I spend less of my time scraping moss off holds. The problem at the moment is there're something like 7 or 8 "regions" according to the guy developing it we've talked to, but we've only managed to find 3, and MP only has 1. There're no real trails going out to the areas either, so my plan was to use GaiaGPS to plot some likely paths to get out to places and then post those with pictures of the main boulder and gps coordinates and whatever lines I can figure out from ancient instagram posts. I would get a hold of the person developing it first to make sure they are ok with the routes being posted first. There might be access issues or other things to be aware of first.
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Nov 3, 2021 06:19
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SplitDestiny posted:I would get a hold of the person developing it first to make sure they are ok with the routes being posted first. There might be access issues or other things to be aware of first. Yeah posting about somebody else's routes is a super lovely thing to do.
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Nov 3, 2021 16:26
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They're boulders, so it's not like they went out there and bolted them, and they completely re-cover themselves in moss every season so I've done as much cleaning as anyone else on the things I've climbed I'm sure. I really dislike the "Well I touched this rock first, now it's mine forever" aspect of climbing. I've known the guy developing it(just as in we climb at the same gyms) for like 10+ years, and he's generally an OK guy, but also he sent us on like a 3-4 hour hike where we didn't find poo poo, and I'm not totally convinced it wasn't intentional, so kinda lowkey gently caress him right now.
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Nov 3, 2021 16:47
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gohuskies posted:Yeah posting about somebody else's routes is a super lovely thing to do. Nah, do it. There's a lot of false magnanimity in the climbing community, especially among route developers. Developing, cleaning, bolting, and cataloging new routes is a donation to the community, and the benefits of recognition and being a voice in future development is the reward for that donation. Bolting a secret line for you and your 5 friends isn't benefitting the community, and thus the rewards aren't yours to lay claim to either. OP, can all but guarantee that if you start posting them on MP (I'd probably do generic naming and leave FAs blank), these folks will suddenly find themselves with plenty of time to be claiming their FAs in the comments section. Baronash fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Nov 3, 2021 |
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Nov 3, 2021 22:13
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I'm all for giving people time, but ten years is beyond ridiculous for bolting lines, nevermind cleaning a boulder.
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Nov 3, 2021 23:16
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They're clearly not developing the area in any meaningful sense of the word. Doing that would mean grabbing the best lines then welcoming other people's input to fill in the rest, keep the veg in check and give the grading some balance. Posting a photo with lines 1, 2, 3, 4... on "A,B,C... buttress" or whatever would be a diplomatic way to let the guidebook writers claim their creative input. This is worth being sensitive about, but you can always find and contact the landowner independently. SplitDestiny posted:There might be access issues or other things to be aware of first.
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Nov 4, 2021 00:31
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Baronash posted:There's a lot of false magnanimity in the climbing community, especially among route developers. Developing, cleaning, bolting, and cataloging new routes is a donation to the community, and the benefits of recognition and being a voice in future development is the reward for that donation. Bolting a secret line for you and your 5 friends isn't benefitting the community, and thus the rewards aren't yours to lay claim to either. Having your name associated with a new line or crag is also associated with a HUGE headache! What if the route is dangerous and someone gets injured? If the crag becomes popular and the land owner decides to shut down climbing in the future and want to go after the developers? What if the rock deteriorates due to freeze-thawing and turns to choss? What if your rapp anchor tree dies? Not opening an area to the public can have a multitude of reasons. If the area isn't capable of a large influx of people - think poor topsoil, few parking spots, near houses or having a challenging approach. If a crag isn't published the developers probably have good reasons! Keep in mind it can take us a full day and cost 100+$ to clean and bolt a single route!
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Nov 6, 2021 17:32
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Sigmund Fraud posted:'Benefits of recognition' and 'voice in future development' sure do sound like great rewards! At most the recognition is your name in some future topo IF that guide book writer even opts to include first ascentionists! None of the Rockfax topos include the FA for example. Voice in future development is in most cases the possibility to veto a future retrobolting or linkup of your lines which I believe is reasonable. A proud trad route gets alot less proud when squeezed in between bolt ladders! It seems like most of these can be avoided by not associating your name with it if that's what you want. For the rest, if it's on public land then you don't get to gatekeep if others find out about it and it's a dick move to hide it to start with. If it's private land, then obviously everyone should follow the land owner's wishes which may be that only certain people can climb there.
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Nov 6, 2021 20:54
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Any suggestions on how to make climbing easier poo poo more fun? I've been really pushing my limits the last 2 months and my fingers are really starting to hurt  Every day I wake up and they're painfully stiff and making crimp gestures is not so nice.I need to just stop climbing hard poo poo but every time I go to the gym I do a few easier problems and get bored and before I know it I'm working on my projects again.
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Nov 8, 2021 15:55
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Sab669 posted:Any suggestions on how to make climbing easier poo poo more fun? I've been really pushing my limits the last 2 months and my fingers are really starting to hurt Depending on how many routes you have access to, speed climbing easier routes can be fun, or running through a whole set of easy boulder problems in quick succession. But if you're getting sore fingers all the time and you've been climbing high volume + difficulty then you might need to just give them some rest. You can't get stronger if you injure yourself.
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Nov 8, 2021 16:39
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Sab669 posted:Any suggestions on how to make climbing easier poo poo more fun? I've been really pushing my limits the last 2 months and my fingers are really starting to hurt I like to climb as silently as possible, and you can do "sticky holds" where you can't adjust your grip/footing after you touch a hold. Both are pretty good for passively improving technique. Downclimbing everything is good for you as well.
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Nov 8, 2021 17:43
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BlancoNino posted:I like to climb as silently as possible, and you can do "sticky holds" where you can't adjust your grip/footing after you touch a hold. Both are pretty good for passively improving technique. Downclimbing everything is good for you as well. Yeah, basically a variety of drills, if you can get into the "drills are fun" mindset.
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Nov 8, 2021 17:45
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I’d suggest two things: try handicapping yourself on easier climbs? There are plenty of ways to do that: lock off and hold your hand above a hold for a second before grabbing it, use only one foot, campusing only, etc. some of those techniques can help you maintain strength and intensity but lower the load on your fingers. Two: icing them a bit will most likely help reduce inflammation, and working the extensors/range of motion (hand glides, rice bucket, massage ring, revrse wrist curls, reverse curls, pinch block). Lookup penguin fingers on Amazon, they’re really nice
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Nov 8, 2021 17:45
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If the density of the holds is high enough, you could also spend some time creating problems of your own. Is this a nice gym otherwise? Because if it’s always “hard problems=crimpfest” that makes it sound like your gym may employ some really uncreative setters.
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Nov 8, 2021 18:10
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Sab669 posted:Any suggestions on how to make climbing easier poo poo more fun? I've been really pushing my limits the last 2 months and my fingers are really starting to hurt Work on stuff just below your limit for technique
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Nov 8, 2021 18:28
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Climb easier stuff and practice taking rests on the wall. One hand on one hand off, count to 5 or 10. Really makes you think about positioning and is good practice for longer climbs.
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Nov 8, 2021 18:45
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RabidWeasel posted:Depending on how many routes you have access to, speed climbing easier routes can be fun, or running through a whole set of easy boulder problems in quick succession. But if you're getting sore fingers all the time and you've been climbing high volume + difficulty then you might need to just give them some rest. You can't get stronger if you injure yourself. Yea  I'm usually there like 4x a week for 2 hours and most of that time has been on my 1 or 2 projects lately. I do a few warm up stretches and boulders but that's about it.BlancoNino posted:I like to climb as silently as possible, and you can do "sticky holds" where you can't adjust your grip/footing after you touch a hold. Both are pretty good for passively improving technique. Downclimbing everything is good for you as well. That generally is my warmup  But the idea of spending a whole 60-120 minute session just doesn't sound fun Baronash posted:Is this a nice gym otherwise? Because if it’s always “hard problems=crimpfest” that makes it sound like your gym may employ some really uncreative setters. It's definitely not a crimpfest, my last project was big moves on good holds, and my current project is big pinchy/slopey blocks on the 40º wall. But the more gyms I've been too this year, the more I've grown bored of my gym's setting I just need to embrace the drills I guess
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Nov 8, 2021 19:20
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The thing to keep in mind about drills is that they will make you stronger over time, which working your projects generally won't. At least, not as effectively. If you can get into the "this is an investment" mindset, then running drills for a few months isn't so bad.
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Nov 8, 2021 19:24
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Is there a slab wall at your gym? I love doing no-hands on slabs. Great for your foot work as well.
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Nov 8, 2021 20:11
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Sab669 posted:Any suggestions on how to make climbing easier poo poo more fun? I've been really pushing my limits the last 2 months and my fingers are really starting to hurt Teach someone, if you've got that kind of friendship with people down the wall. Thinking about how to explain to another person how they can climb a problem in their way, or helping them choose problems that suit their style is a really interesting challenge.
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Nov 8, 2021 20:21
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You could also spend more time on a rope or traversing. Traversing can be gym/space dependent but top rope is way easier on the fingers in my experience.
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Nov 8, 2021 20:56
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Belaying seems to really burn out the shoulder on my non-dominant hand. Maybe I just need to do it more, but it gets actually sore within an hour for some reason...
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Nov 8, 2021 21:05
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Hmm, you could also just eat your vegetables and workout at the gym if they have the equipment and space for it. Antagonistic and core exercises are good for you and if your shoulder feels lovely from belaying people it's not a bad place to start. I started deadlifting to balance all of my cycling and climbing and as long as you pace yourself it's hard to go wrong with any cross training.
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Nov 8, 2021 21:47
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Try repeating easier stuff with different beta
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Nov 9, 2021 03:37
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You can also do drills on easier climbs. Sloth Monkeys, Hip Shapes, Silent feet, One touch and Rooting (powercompany on youtube has videos for how to do those) are all kind of fun and can make a flash level climb pretty challenging while also teaching you stuff and good habits. If you have access to a spray wall, creating problems is really fun too and if you try to create a circuit or easier grade climbs it won't be too hard on the fingers. Leading easier stuff can be fun and different if you mainly do bouldering and everyone needs more practice clipping and such. You can also just cut your sessions short. I think in most cases volume is one of the big reasons we end up injured. Keeping intensity high but cutting total volume helped with nagging "injuries" in my case. Sab669 posted:Belaying seems to really burn out the shoulder on my non-dominant hand. Maybe I just need to do it more, but it gets actually sore within an hour for some reason... This will get better with time. I ended up with crazy pain in my right pinky when I first started belaying and I modified my technique a bit and got used to the motion, etc. Now I'm fine. Also a newer/smaller rope that doesn't stick in your belaying device makes a big difference. Big thick old gym ropes make belaying a chore. Newer ropes slide effortlessly KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 17:52
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Sab669 posted:Belaying seems to really burn out the shoulder on my non-dominant hand. Maybe I just need to do it more, but it gets actually sore within an hour for some reason... If this is while TR belaying, do you keep one hand on the climber's side of the rope or both hands on the brake side? The latter introduces a lot of friction into the system, and I could see that causing soreness pretty quickly.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:15
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It happens both top rope and lead. I tend to keep the hand on the climber's side. I think it's more just the general repeated pulling motion that does it for me.
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Nov 9, 2021 19:05
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Sab669 posted:the general repeated pulling motion that does it for me. Same 
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Nov 9, 2021 19:11
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Sab669 posted:Belaying seems to really burn out the shoulder on my non-dominant hand. Maybe I just need to do it more, but it gets actually sore within an hour for some reason... Start staff belaying (swap break hand each time you pay out or take rope). Use a low friction belay device. Use the smallest appropriate locker possible. It'll reduce your belay device flopping around and you wont have to make as big movements with your arms. Stop looking up. Your neck muscles connect with your shoulders and a craned neck also contributes to your shoulders rotating forward (climber's posture). Belay goggles if you wanna see what's going on. Try to stand to the side of the route rather than out from it if it's steep. When tensioning the rope: walk out from the wall rather than pulling rope thru the belay device.
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Nov 12, 2021 08:21
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Did 2 outdoor V5s in the span of 2 hours this week. Last year they were beyond impossible and my goal was getting a single V5 this year (have done 4 now and hopefully I get the chance to climb outside again and add another one). I felt like I wasn't getting better for most of the year and still feel like I'm "stuck" indoor. I'm so stocked for training all year and hopefully getting an outdoor V6 next year!
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Nov 13, 2021 22:34
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I'm going to Costa Blanca at the end of the week for about 10 days. Anyone been there and have experience of the area? We're gonna be staying not too far from the crag Sella so the plan is to climb there a bunch. Other than that we're psyched to climb on Peñón de Ifach. I'm unsure whether I should bother bringing the trad rack. And how much of it. We're psyched to multipitch a bunch. We'll probably bring a small backpack for the follower to carry on the multipitches. I've previously multiptiched with all the extra gear clipped to the harness but I'd be nice to not have to lead the harder pitches with shoes, water bottles and extra clothing swinging around my knees!
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Nov 16, 2021 00:20
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I'm thinking about squeezing in a short trip around New Years somewhere, kind of assuming in the US but I suppose that doesn't have to be since it would need to be a flight anyways. Most likely it would need to be sport climbing as I'm unsure if my partner would be excited about boudering, though maybe I could convince her. I've been to Red Rocks before, though not in early January, and was thinking that might work Anyone have some recommendations?
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Nov 16, 2021 02:23
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Sigmund Fraud posted:I'm going to Costa Blanca at the end of the week for about 10 days. Anyone been there and have experience of the area? We're gonna be staying not too far from the crag Sella so the plan is to climb there a bunch. Other than that we're psyched to climb on Peñón de Ifach. I'm unsure whether I should bother bringing the trad rack. And how much of it. I was there around three years ago with my girlfriend. We climbed at Sella, Penon de Ifach and a bunch of other places that I can't remember. Only did sport though. I remember Sella having super smooth and polished rock and Penon having some really old and sketchy bolts and everywhere the bolts were really far apart. Like you'd climb 15m on maybe three or four bolt, then you were expected to do a traverse for maybe 5m sideways and 3 up, coming really close to groundfall potential. Did cure me somewhat of taking falls though. Had a really good time though, rented a car at the airport and an airbnb flat in Villa Joyosa from some norwegian lady that was really nice and not to expensive. I'd say bring some cams and nuts, they'll be good to have in case the bolts are spaced out.
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Nov 16, 2021 14:12
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