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Sorry if I missed the dedicated headphone thread. Eight or so years ago I started getting headaches when using any kind of headphones, or earphones. How long it takes and how intense the pain is depends on the specific model, but it eventually happens with everything. Tight bands are definitely the worst, but I get migraines even with earphones. Lowering the volume helps, but I still can't listen to music for as long as I'd want, especially a few days in a row. I was just wondering if anyone with similar issues found something that works for them. I don't have that much experience with different types of headphones/headsets. The Pulse 3D that was bundled with my PS5 was one of the best I've used in that regard. Clip on headphones might be better still, but the sound experience isn't comparable. Maybe open air headphones might be a good compromise?
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Dec 3, 2021 06:01
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No advice but here is the headphone thread and maybe they can help! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3563521&perpage=40&pagenumber=1&noseen=1
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Dec 3, 2021 06:21
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thanks
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Dec 3, 2021 06:23
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Hey, so this is safe, right? 
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Dec 5, 2021 02:11
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Hey, so this is safe, right? Possibly? I mean it looks weird but it’s a valid connection.
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Dec 5, 2021 02:46
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FCKGW posted:Possibly? I mean it looks weird but it’s a valid connection. Yeah its just power. As long as its not shorting it.
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Dec 5, 2021 02:47
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That's what I figured, it's not like the power supply is just gonna force all its potential wattage into those 6 plugs. Just needed some reassurance since it looked so terrible lol. Thanks.
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Dec 5, 2021 02:55
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They make 24 to 8 pin adapters for those kind of boards (I'm mostly familiar with the Dell ones) but obviously you need to make sure it's compatible. If that one has the right connections and works it's probably fine but might not clip in since the clip is usually small and in the middle of the connector.
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Dec 5, 2021 03:43
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Yeah I need to get an adaptor. The pin on the 24 that's responsible for actually turning the power supply on has no way of touching the motherboard.
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Dec 5, 2021 04:49
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Here's another "not sure where to put this question" question, buuuut: For school, I have a 2019 Macbook Pro 16" with the Radeon 5500U GPU. For work, I currently have an HP Elitebook something or other, which is being replaced by a Dell Latitude 5420. What I'm looking to pick up for home use is a good docking station that I can use for both, to plug into two external monitors that will also let me have multiple USB devices and charge my laptop. "But Ten, there's like a million out there that cover this." Yep. Originally I was looking at this Kensington SD2500T dock but the comments basically say if you're using the Macbook I have stay away. Apparently it has issues with HCDP? The only other alternative that I've read that gets pretty rave reviews is CalDigit TS3 Plus Thunderbolt 3 Dock but it's $100 more. I'd need to get some new cables for this (actually, it sounds like for all of them I'd need active HDMI cables? For the CalDigit I'd also need a USB-C to HDMI or DP) but that's neither here nor there, really. More for the pile. Figured I'd ask if ya'll had any suggestions. Right now the external monitors are some old 27" Acers, but eventually I'm going to replace one as a "main" work monitor with a much nicer display (mostly for the Macbook).
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Dec 5, 2021 05:49
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https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-27-usb-c-monitor-s2722dc/apd/210-bbqs/monitors-monitor-accessories ?? My job's standard display is the 24" version with thunderbolt display.
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Dec 5, 2021 08:31
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Why am I hearing a very quiet popping noise when using headphones on my Razer Ripsaw? I hope this qualifies as a short question. Have a Razer Ripsaw HD. Capturing Xbox Audio fine, and can listen to PC (Mostly Discord) through the headphone jack on device. Worked fine for 30 minutes and then the PC end started having weird popping noises. Not super loud and not always from both ears of the headphones. They first started happening during a discord chat and I initially thought it was some ones microphone opening and closing loudly, but it has spread to other applications on further testing. Xbox audio is clear and it seems to only pop for PC sounds. If I turn Xbox off the PC audio clears up and popping goes away, while stile using the headphone jack on the ripsaw. While running the xbox capture I moved my headset from the ripsaw back to my default speakers and there was no popping noise. Checked all cables, multiple sets of headphones, lowered PC levels through windows settings. I made sure the Ripsaw was on its own 3.1 USB port and nothing else was running through it. Using the Razer Synapse software I can reliably cause the pop to happen. I can click and hold the master volume bar and hear audio clear and levels changing, but as soon as I release the mouse button it will pop in my ear. Messing with the Mic volume bar does the same thing, even though I do not run my mic through the Ripsaw. The PC and HDMI volume bars will not produce the pop sound. Using the Windows Sound test also causes a pop with every test tone, much more frequently than chatting in discord does. Using StreamLabs OBS to record locally and it doesn't pick up the popping noise. The pops are pretty quiet but are very noticeable once you know they are there. They are usually spaced but are definitely only trigged from the PC end sounds. While having both the PC and Xbox connected I have muted everything on the PC and audio is fine, soon as I play a sound or join a discord popping starts up again. Have done all updates and optional updates through windows. Have latest updates for my graphics card, discord, Razer software, anything that is running at the time that I can find an update button on. I do not have a sound card. I've been messing with this for about 5 hours now so my notes are probably all over the place. I have not tried capturing something other then the Xbox. edit - When not running the Ripsaw and just using my normal PC speakers I have never had audio issues.
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Dec 5, 2021 10:35
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are you using the front case headphone jack
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Dec 5, 2021 13:53
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Tensokuu posted:Here's another "not sure where to put this question" question, buuuut: The CalDigit is the go-to dock for MacBooks and is your best bet on that platform. You likely have way more options on the windows side but not all of them will work correctly with the Mac. So up to you if you want to try a different dock and see if you can save some money or try the pricey CalDigit but be out more cash
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Dec 5, 2021 15:29
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FCKGW posted:The CalDigit is the go-to dock for MacBooks and is your best bet on that platform. You likely have way more options on the windows side but not all of them will work correctly with the Mac. That’s good to know actually! Thankfully I am doing an online survey thing that’s paying me a $200 Amazon gift card so that’ll cover most of the cost.
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Dec 5, 2021 17:55
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When I chose my mainboard three years ago I got an Asus Prime X470 Pro mostly because it had the S1220A soundchip that was supposedly better than the the average chip. Is that right, or are chips on cheaper boards just as good? Another question. I can connect my headphones at the back of my desktop, at the front (headphone plug-in) or conveniently plug them into the screen. Buuuuut what I do now is using a Sabaj D3 DAC that is connected to the digital output of the mainboard. The headphones are connected to that thing and this time I actually hear a difference in sound. I am by no mean an audiophile but these Philips SHP9500/00 are seemingly good enough to show the differnce. So... what makes that difference? Which component is responsible for what output? I read that the graphics card also processes sound. Not what I want when I have better options. But wouldn't the rear or front (are they the same?) output sound just as good as the one with the DAC? Sorry if I explained this badly. Thank you very much.
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Dec 5, 2021 20:33
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The main issue with using most front ports are that they are poorly shielded and more prone to interference. If you are happy with your current sound setup I’d probably just leave it. Sound can be such a subjective thing that you’ll get 4 different answers because everyone has their own preferences. You are probably already getting the best sound you can for your current headphones.
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Dec 5, 2021 20:42
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Yeah front ports often (but not always) produce worse sound. One of the reasons hi-fi gear has the price jacked up is because they are advertising ***Electro Magnetic Interference Shielding** which honestly isn't really an issue in most situations. Turns out a tiny box filled with electronic components and current is one of the few exceptions where EMI shielding really is important!  So the tiny cable inside the case leading to the little jack at the front of a pc will sometimes produce noticeable distortion compared to plugging directly into the motherboard or sound card at the back of the case.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:11
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I hear faint a faint whine when I move my mouse. Speakers are connected to the back of the motherboard.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:13
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Thank you!
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Dec 5, 2021 21:34
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Rinkles posted:I hear faint a faint whine when I move my mouse. Speakers are connected to the back of the motherboard. Is it a wireless mouse? The speaker cables could be picking up the interference.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:41
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MarcusSA posted:Is it a wireless mouse? The speaker cables could be picking up the interference. nope
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Dec 5, 2021 21:41
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It’s probably a poor sound card then. You could get a USB DAC which should fix it.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:46
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it was advertised as having good audio. i mean, i know that's what they always say, but some of the reviews mentioned it too. it's not a low end motherboard. maybe i should try the optical out (i don't have a cable atm).
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Dec 5, 2021 21:51
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Rinkles posted:it was advertised as having good audio. i mean, i know that's what they always say, but some of the reviews mentioned it too. it's not a low end motherboard. I know you said you were looking for headphones I’d be curious if the noise is still there with them. It could be the speakers.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:56
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good idea, i'll try that later.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:59
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Yeah try moving your wires around. If you have bundled your speaker wires alongside others maybe seperate them and run them farther away from the others.
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Dec 5, 2021 22:16
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Blankspot posted:Why am I hearing a very quiet popping noise when using headphones on my Razer Ripsaw? If you have the device hooked up to both the Xbox and the PC at the same time, it's likely that the two devices are fighting for ground which often produces weird noise. Sometimes it's a hum or some popping or other anomalous noise. You can put a ground loop isolator device like this inline with one of the two to prevent the noise: https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=ground+loop+noise+isolator+3.5mm I used to get some cell phone network noise in my speakers too so I added some ferrite beads to the cables which didn't completely solve it but did help a lot.
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Dec 5, 2021 22:35
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Rexxed posted:If you have the device hooked up to both the Xbox and the PC at the same time, it's likely that the two devices are fighting for ground which often produces weird noise. Sometimes it's a hum or some popping or other anomalous noise. You can put a ground loop isolator device like this inline with one of the two to prevent the noise: I was wondering if this might be it. I have had my desktop speakers pick up interference from my cell phone sitting on my desk before. My headphones are connected to the 3.5 headphone jack on the front of the capture card. Audio from the PC is going to the device through USB 3.1 cable (Same cable sending video to the PC from the capture card, cable provided with product) and audio from the Xbox is running through HDMI to the capture card. Would I just add loop isolator to the headphone jack? Or am I looking at adding this inline behind the capture card? And as I am typing this just realized I have a 3.1 USB extension cable attached to the capture card, so I can unplug it easily when not in use, and am now going to try removing the extension cable too. edit - Removed the USB extension cable. Tried to separate as many cables from one another as I could. Still getting the popping audio. I do have the loop isolator on order and hoping that clears it up tomorrow. Thank you! Blankspot fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 5, 2021 23:29
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Blankspot posted:I was wondering if this might be it. I have had my desktop speakers pick up interference from my cell phone sitting on my desk before. Hmm, I guess that I didn't realize the extent of interconnectedness of the razer device. If it is a ground loop, and I'm not positive that would be the issue in this case but I suspect that it is, then just filtering to the headphones wouldn't solve it. You're essentially connecting the grounds of the xbox and PC together because the HDMI has ground as does the USB connector, but they don't necessarily agree on the ground level and it results in noise. You would think that it would be designed to handle that. Here's a video about some potential solutions if it is a ground loop. It's also possible it's an issue with the device, it just sounds very much like a ground loop issue since they are generally caused by two powered devices sending audio to one output. In my case it was always two PCs connected to one set of speakers and I solved it by making a homebrew mint tin electronics project with audio jacks connected with 1k resistors between them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2c6fKOu-vo I also searched for hdmi ground loop isolator and while I didn't find a device for it, a lot of folks have this issue with receivers that get multiple hdmi inputs and have mentioned plugging the devices into the same power source so they share a ground level, or even running a wire between the grounded chassis on both to provide the same ground path (while using a "cheater" plug, an ungrounded plug, one one of the devices). The receivers often don't have a ground plug so grounding them through one of the devices is an option for those folks. The cheater plug seems a tad sketchy so I'd just try using the same power strip for both and see if it helps to begin with, or see if a ground wire from the chassis of the xbox (somewhere with exposed metal) to the pc helps if the power thing doesn't. https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=194068 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/211927-break-hdmi-ground-loops.html https://www.avsforum.com/threads/hdmi-ground-noise-in-amp-solved-via-ground-lift-at-amp-need-advice.1433578/ If there's no obvious solution like plugging them into the same power source I'd stop by the electronics thread who will know a lot more than I do about your options if it is a ground loop. I'm sure there's also some good audio threads that might be of use.
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Dec 6, 2021 01:08
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I recommend one of these if you're having trouble with noise on headphones or speakers, it gets the DAC outside of the interference filled case. These are also generally higher fidelity and more powerful than a lot of motherboard headphone jacks. $33 is a good deal imo. XtremPro X1-1 High Performance USB DAC Headphone Amp OTG Amplifier (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6SYQG9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SZ40QEY96FTQ3WV2G28C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Dec 6, 2021 02:17
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I have an old desktop with a core 2 duo E8500, 8 GB of ram, and a gtx 460. I futzed it back to life, it seems to be running okay. I’m thinking about spending 50 bucks to drop a modern SSD in and setting it up to run games for the kids, mostly older stuff that I used to run on this thing when it was new. I think the hdd->ssd upgrade is probably worth it? Thoughts? Motherboard offers sata 2. Thinking a whatever-brand ssd in the 500gb range.
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Dec 7, 2021 05:48
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1,000% worth it. Mostly any brand is fine, Western Digital Blue are affordable and decent enough quality
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Dec 7, 2021 05:56
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Bad Munki posted:I have an old desktop with a core 2 duo E8500, 8 GB of ram, and a gtx 460. I futzed it back to life, it seems to be running okay. I’m thinking about spending 50 bucks to drop a modern SSD in and setting it up to run games for the kids, mostly older stuff that I used to run on this thing when it was new. Yeah that would be pretty useful.
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Dec 7, 2021 05:56
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Okay, cool. Obviously I don’t want to wastefully shovel money into this old rig, but those drives are cheap enough that it’s pretty darn palatable in order to get a computer the kids can play terraria and the like on. The original plan was to give them mine when I upgraded to a new build but that all hinges on snagging a new gpu first, lol.
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Dec 7, 2021 06:12
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That being said, the clickety-clack sounds coming from next to me on the desk are incredibly nostalgic and natural.
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Dec 7, 2021 06:48
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I'd consider a 1TB (or even 2TB) model since atm they're much better value per gigabyte (prices suddenly started falling last month on 1TB+ sizes), and you can always reuse it when you build a new PC.
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Dec 7, 2021 07:46
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Hopefully this is the right place to ask. I have a US PS3, and it operates on 120V and 0.8A, but I moved to Europe and brought it with me. I got myself a stepdown converter and everything looked great, but then while reading the manual, I realized Hz was a thing. The PS3 wants 60Hz, but Europe is 50Hz - will that be a problem? I figured I should ask someone before I test it. I have blown up a US XBox 360 power supply before by plugging it straight into the European mains, so I want to avoid ruining another console, haha.
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Dec 7, 2021 11:11
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What does the label on the PS3 itself say about input voltage and frequency? It might just be modern enough to be universal.
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Dec 7, 2021 13:47
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 00:12 |
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Geemer posted:What does the label on the PS3 itself say about input voltage and frequency? It might just be modern enough to be universal. That's exactly where I got the 120V, 1.8A, 60Hz numbers from. I'm sure it has some tolerance ranges around those numbers, but the label doesn't say. Here's the label: 
Shadow0 fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 21:49
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