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Uh how about some clear caps? https://en.zfrontier.com/products/in-stock-lelelab-crystal-clear-abs-keycap-sets?variant=39559526285390 KAT Space Cadet? https://en.zfrontier.com/collections/keyreative/products/in-stock-kat-space-cadet?variant=39562305994830
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Dec 4, 2021 04:24
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My FIL is looking for an "ergonomic" keyboard for his massive outside ape fingers. Anything spring to mind for giant sausage hands?
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Dec 4, 2021 04:35
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Unsinkabear posted:Is there a keycap style that takes pudding a step further? I want the whole thing transparent except for the legends. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Uh how about some clear caps? Someone was just looking for something in this wheelhouse a few days ago.
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Dec 4, 2021 04:40
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Goodpancakes posted:My FIL is looking for an "ergonomic" keyboard for his massive outside ape fingers. Anything spring to mind for giant sausage hands? Build a board with these. https://novelkeys.com/products/the-big-switch-series
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Dec 4, 2021 04:41
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Chevy Slyme posted:Build a board with these. https://novelkeys.com/products/the-big-switch-series 
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Dec 4, 2021 05:03
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Scale up an Ergodox to use those. Call it the Ergosphere.
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Dec 4, 2021 07:27
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BGrifter posted:Just got an email the Adafruit Macropad kit is back in stock. Anyone in the thread have any experience with one? I have the pimoroni macropad which is the adafruit's cheap brother without a display and dial and I can heartily recommend it. Programming is a matter of changing a text file in the pad (it shows up as a USB drive when connected) and if you're a proper computer toucher rather than a dabbler like me you can probably make it do all sorts of insane poo poo. I just copied and pasted the example macros to make my own.
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Dec 4, 2021 10:12
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Goodpancakes posted:My FIL is looking for an "ergonomic" keyboard for his massive outside ape fingers. Anything spring to mind for giant sausage hands? What kind of ergonomic? Split keyboard? I use a moonlander and it benefits from large hands. I have long fingers and I like it but I don't have giant sausage hands so ymmv
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Dec 4, 2021 20:02
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The ergodox ez might also be an option? That's my dream split board out of the options I've seen so far. Speaking of...Exit Strategy posted:For the record, only two boards I have ever seen have done it correctly Do you mind telling us what two boards those were? Anything publicly available, or just other customs?
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Dec 4, 2021 20:48
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Unsinkabear posted:The ergodox ez might also be an option? That's my dream split board out of the options I've seen so far. Speaking of... One of them IS the Ergodox EZ, because it has structural supports as part of the case that sit under each hotswap, preventing the user from pushing a badly aligned or damaged switch too hard and ripping the hotswap clean off the board. The other is the Moonlander, which does the same thing.
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Dec 4, 2021 22:43
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Exit Strategy posted:One of them IS the Ergodox EZ, because it has structural supports as part of the case that sit under each hotswap, preventing the user from pushing a badly aligned or damaged switch too hard and ripping the hotswap clean off the board. The other is the Moonlander, which does the same thing. Ah, the Kailh hotswap sockets. Yeah, there have been some failures as you've described. In your experience, do holtites and Mill-Max sockets have a similar issue?
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Dec 4, 2021 23:22
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Ah, the Kailh hotswap sockets. Yeah, there have been some failures as you've described. In your experience, do holtites and Mill-Max sockets have a similar issue? I would absolutely recommend against holtite sockets. They will definitely destroy switches. Mill-max are perfectly fine because they drop in through the top of the switch holes with the lip of the socket sitting on top of the PCB. If you manage to push a mill max socket through the PCB, you've probably destroyed your PCB in the process. For most hot-swap boards, you should always put switches in the PCB outside the case if possible, while supporting the hot-swap socket on the back with one hand. That way you don't accidentally pop a socket. This also negates the need for standoffs between the plate and PCB, allowing for a flexy typing experience on some boards if that's something you might want.
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Dec 5, 2021 00:15
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Gearman posted:I would absolutely recommend against holtite sockets. They will definitely destroy switches. Mill-max are perfectly fine because they drop in through the top of the switch holes with the lip of the socket sitting on top of the PCB. If you manage to push a mill max socket through the PCB, you've probably destroyed your PCB in the process. Absolutely agree with both of these positions. I've never used Mill-Maxes before - I've only ever seen Holtites and Kailh sockets. Holtites all but require modifying the switches, and Kailhs are easy to rip off the board.
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Dec 5, 2021 03:38
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Exit Strategy posted:Absolutely agree with both of these positions. I've never used Mill-Maxes before - I've only ever seen Holtites and Kailh sockets. Holtites all but require modifying the switches, and Kailhs are easy to rip off the board. My first hotswap board went the way of the dumpster as the case's plate fitment sucked plus everything else described, MassDrop K-Type.
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Dec 5, 2021 05:06
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*sigh* I am still hunting for either a wood 60% with a wood numpad to go along with it, or just a wood TKL case and internals compatible with Boba U4s. KBDFans and Drop both have 60% wood frames that work with pluggable DRZ60, but no numpad. Any suggestions? This is for my Lugoo Deer build. The Lugoo Deer mat makes a nice mat for my work setup so I might just put the caps in a fullsize Das, but I really like the idea of wood 60% + numpad, or wood TKL.
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Dec 5, 2021 15:58
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Cabbages and Kings posted:*sigh* I am still hunting for either a wood 60% with a wood numpad to go along with it, or just a wood TKL case and internals compatible with Boba U4s. The problem is TKL and numpads aren’t “standardized” like 60% are so the only way you’re going to find what you’re looking for is if someone runs a group buy or you commission a custom build
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Dec 5, 2021 16:53
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Sacred Cow posted:The problem is TKL and numpads aren’t “standardized” like 60% are so the only way you’re going to find what you’re looking for is if someone runs a group buy or you commission a custom build that makes sense. Maybe my best bet is to do a 60% and then build a caseless numpad and use my own questionable woodworking skills to make a case for it.
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Dec 5, 2021 17:33
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Well the case is printed. Changed orientation on second half for better resolution with all the angles. It is massive. 
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Dec 5, 2021 18:03
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She lives. Mode65, maroon top, lilac back and bottom FR4 Plate, Stack mount Banana Split switches, stock Durock V2 PCB-mount stabs, housings lubed with Krytox 205g0 and wires lubed with dielectric grease Octopus keycaps from Kinetic Labs Thanks to everyone in the discord for putting up with my anxiety and questions lmao
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Dec 5, 2021 20:01
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What are the best options for a bluetooth numpad?
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Dec 6, 2021 00:58
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This just in: linears are pretty great. My "Used: Acceptable" Freestyle Edge with Cherry reds that had "multiple cosmetic issues greater than one inch" from Amazon Warehouse deals is absolutely pristine. No scratches, not a single speck of dust or dirt, bread ties still on the cables and everything. It just came in a bag with no manual instead of a box. I like the sound much better than the brown version and the feel is just as (maybe more?) satisfying in a different way, so I'll likely keep this model since it was cheaper. Am I supposed to be bottoming out the keys on these? I've heard that doing so contributes to finger pain, but it's hard not to when you take away the tactility. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 02:19
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Unsinkabear posted:This just in: linears are pretty great. Yuuuuup. My board has Alpacas in it right now and they're an absolute delight to type on.
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Dec 6, 2021 02:36
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Unsinkabear posted:This just in: linears are pretty great. I put some milky yellows in my GMMK Pro. I didn't like them at first but I'm turning around on them.
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Dec 6, 2021 02:39
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Unsinkabear posted:This just in: linears are pretty great. I don't know how to not bottom out on linears. Even with 89-100g springs.
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Dec 6, 2021 02:58
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Sweet Business Update: - About half of the plates are done. Our laser's not the fastest unit in the West, but it's workin'. - Ijyt's Mill-Maxes are ordered. - I've had to order more standoffs, as I've found I don't have enough handy! That's OK, though. - Production probably due to start on Wednesday. I'll take pictures of myself assembling them and dump 'em here. In other news: I'm designing a mouse, because literally every mouse in existence sucks. If they're not fragile hardware built down to a price in order to maximize profit, they're the Ploopy, and if they're not that then they have an obscene sack-of-hotdogs shaped software package that might install a crypto miner on your computer. Like the Ploopy, it'll be running on a PixArt sensor and using QMK. Unlike the Ploopy, it'll be compatible with a large variety of switch types because that's how I roll. e: I call it Eyes of Tomorrow. Exit Strategy fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 11:59
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Exit Strategy posted:
Going to use MX switches?
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Dec 6, 2021 14:24
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Exit Strategy posted:Sweet Business Update: Oh my, this is very interesting to me.
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Dec 6, 2021 14:31
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The reason mice are the way they are is that brand loyalty is bizarrely high so it's most profitable for the manufacturers for the mice to fail after 1-2 years, most customers will happily buy a new model of the same. It's a strange business, even as far as Hardware For Nerds goes.
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Dec 6, 2021 15:17
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As long as it's not full of holes!
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Dec 6, 2021 15:22
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Eric the Mauve posted:The reason mice are the way they are is that brand loyalty is bizarrely high so it's most profitable for the manufacturers for the mice to fail after 1-2 years, most customers will happily buy a new model of the same. It's a strange business, even as far as Hardware For Nerds goes. So much of miceing is just “I have found the perfect shape that fits perfect in my hand and every other mouse feels weird” so, yeah. Once you find the shape you like brand loyalty skyrockets and you buy five of the same mouse lest it get discontinued on you.
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Dec 6, 2021 15:42
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Can anyone recommend a basic wireless numpad with cherry reds as a switch option? A volume knob would be very neat, but not required. I'm sure that's an uncommon thing that would drive the price up.
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Dec 6, 2021 20:50
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I stupidly joined a Black on White keycap group buy back in March because they said it'd be shipped out by May/June. It's now December and the guy keeps saying "next week I'll be done". I'm pretty close to just buying keycaps somewhere else because I've been using caps from my super old keyboard temporarily.
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Dec 6, 2021 23:20
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Chevy Slyme posted:So much of miceing is just “I have found the perfect shape that fits perfect in my hand and every other mouse feels weird” so, yeah. Once you find the shape you like brand loyalty skyrockets and you buy five of the same mouse lest it get discontinued on you. Please don't doxx me  Question for the thread: I'm looking for a keyboard for my office at work, now that I've been required to go back into the office. I was thinking about something Topre, but a quick Google suggests that they are surprisingly expensive. I was thinking just a standard keyboard (104 keys). Am I looking to have to spend over $200 for something like that, or are there budget options available? Backlight would be nice, don't care about the color or fancy modes or anything. I guess the other question I have is: do Topre switches have a full throw, or are they more similar to the weird demi-chiclet Dell keyboard that work provided me? I'm not sure I've ever seen one in person before . . .
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Dec 6, 2021 23:21
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Zarin posted:Please don't doxx me Amazon sells Topre keyboards, so at the very least you could try it out with the option of an easy return. https://www.amazon.com/Realforce-Keyboard-Tenkeyless-Black-Weight/dp/B07K9B77PJ But if you just want something to get the job done and not spend too much money on it. Keychron C2 hotswap with brown switches. That way if you've got the option to swap everything out for boba u2 silents down the road. https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39311467085913
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Dec 6, 2021 23:38
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Exit Strategy posted:Sweet Business Update: It's been a lot of fun watching your progress - if you ever have any interest in doing some sort of unique 65-75% with function keys on the left or right side or even a TKL, I'd definitely be interested.
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Dec 7, 2021 03:55
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.Z. posted:Amazon sells Topre keyboards, so at the very least you could try it out with the option of an easy return. Hmm, those Gateron Browns seem like they might be something I'd be interested in . . . Too bad both of those items are sold out in the configurations I'd want  Something for me to keep checking back on, though, so thank you for that! $54 is a lot easier for me to stomach for leaving at the office where who knows what might happen to it. That isn't to say that I didn't take either of my two current keyboards to work (I did, one was purchased specifically for work) but that was back when I was in the office everyday.
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Dec 7, 2021 04:11
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Zarin posted:Hmm, those Gateron Browns seem like they might be something I'd be interested in . . . Keychron restocks pretty regularly, and the C2 is also available on Amazon, so check there too.
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Dec 7, 2021 04:18
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Chevy Slyme posted:Keychron restocks pretty regularly, and the C2 is also available on Amazon, so check there too. I think all the C2s currently in stock on Amazon are the soldered configurations, not hotswap.
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Dec 7, 2021 04:21
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.Z. posted:I think all the C2s currently in stock on Amazon are the soldered configurations, not hotswap. https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Hot-swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Compatible/dp/B08SR1HVQB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
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Dec 7, 2021 04:27
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Unsinkabear posted:Can anyone recommend a basic wireless numpad with cherry reds as a switch option? A volume knob would be very neat, but not required. I'm sure that's an uncommon thing that would drive the price up. I haven't seen anything pre-built that meets these exact criteria. One option is the GK21s from the KP Repbublic Ali Express store or their official site. It doesn't have a volume knob though, and is only offered with Gateron switches, not Cherry. However, you can opt to purchase it bare, without any switches, and then source whichever switches you like from elsewhere. It's hot-swappable so no soldering required. Battery life is not amazing though if you leave the lights on all the time. There could be a numpad kit out there that is both wireless and has a volume knob, but it would probably be a complete DIY job with you having to solder diodes, controller, switches, etc. I don't know of any off the top of my head.
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Dec 7, 2021 04:52
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